imek

kcorro, I think that aluminium and machining are all the same, don't matter if in the USA, Japan or Mongolia... If you take the correct material and program the machine to cut the correct shape, it should be allright. They use UR, because its the only company offering it, and its quite pricey pulley ($250)... notice, that AEM doesn't offer crank pulley for 2zz-ge, alhough it has them on offer for 1zz-fe and the whole spectrum of engines... 2zz-ge seems to be the only one with the alternator pulley only... makes you think... PPl on newcelica.org came to conclusion that it's the lack of the dampener that kills the engine -- and morevoer, the engine dies not when you're autocrossing or racing, but when you're criusing with constant speeds and revs.

Man, read newcelica.org on light pulleys. They have been known for blowing 2zz-ge oilpump, and the engine... Not a recommended mod for Sprotivo.

TRD CAI adds about 3 fwhp and looses torque in the midrange. That's what my dynos say. They however can be wrong... You can benefit from it only by installing piggyback/standalone

Hello. Take a look at the pisc from our latest CC meet. There are 841 pictures. http://www.corollaclub.org/index.php?s=zlo....28_kielce&sid= Just scroll down, click a pic to enlarge, click one of the numbers below the pisc to see next page.

You get best results by porting your stock headers. Some newcelica.org users reported as much as 5 whp throughout the band.

Somebody posted a URL of a tuner shop in singapore, that had a lot of Sportivo parts... I cannot find the link thou, does anyone remember it?

It wolud be really cool to meet! :D

I don't know exactly, as I'm flying to Bangkok, then want to see Angkhor Wat, and then travel down to Singapore... It's really hard to tell how much time it'll all take... but I'm assuming its gonna be 2nd od 3rd week of August...

Hello. I'll be visiting Thailand, Cambodia, Malaysia and Singapore this August. Is it worth the effort to bring the parts for our Stivos from these places? I imagine in Thai, Camb and Mal may be difficult to find some garages, but Singapore should be easy... Do you know any shops that sell aftermarket Toyota parts? Any info appreciated. Thanks.

Hey, whats wrong with you, man? Why are you picking on me again. Did I insult anybody again? I didn't say i'm know physics. I was just wondering what parts of the bar transfer the forces -- outside layers or inner... and said that people who know physisc could say more on that. Get it? And yes, material is most important. Hollow titanium will be stronger than solid aluminium of the same thickness (depending on the diameter of the hollow part, of course). Get it? You can have the same differences (of course not as extreme) in steels, as one bar could be made of a stronger type vs. the other of the softer one. Get it? Another good informative topic ruined because of somebody's prejudice... ehhh... rox, From matrixowners.com I know that the most happy users are those with rear sway bar only. Many people say stock front is stiff enough and for everyday driving and occasional trackday stock front/aftermarket rear (progress in the US) is the perfect combo. There are even people who reverted back to stock in the front...

solid/hollow - of course, makes a huge difference. The question thou is - for the knowledgeable in physics - where do the forces concentrate (sway bar acts like a spring). As for materials -- I'm sure there are lots of different steels with different "spring rates". Progress has additional triangle reinforcements strengthening the joint between the horizontal bar and vertical mounting "sockets"... TRD and Hotchkis snap all the time. Read user feedback on matrixowners.com. It just needs a good milage to break. enligtened?

I just checkegd, Progress is also 22mm solid. Stiffness depends more on material than being solid/hollow. TRD and Hotchkis swaybars snap at welds, Whiteline has exactly the same design. I chose Progress b/c of its unique design with reinforcements in places where TRD breaks.

sorry, the www is http://www.progressauto.com/

22 mm hollow. www.progress.com fits perfectlty. designed for the heavier matrix, so prolly stiffer than whitelne. bought it for $120 shipped US -> PL. Look for Petertracks at www.matrixowners.com, and he'll give you a bargain quote. Designed to work with stock front, eliminates understeer almost totally, which cannot be said about front+rear combo. all you need to know is in the suspension section of the above mentioned forum. ps. Did I sense a bit od annoyment or agression in your post?

Progress Rear Sway Bar = 90USD

IZZ-FE. TRD unit does come with the ECU. Still it's possible to buy the blower alone. Pecker, Stock 2zz-ge injectors are good up to 300 hp, so i don't think you need new ones, unless you're planning to rebuild your engine. Also, the unichip or smt6 or e-manage would be sufficient, if you;re not planning to lower the lift.

No, the rotrex is far easier. you only need bracket (already designed), belt and IC piping whereas with eaton you have to make all intake new... Rotrex comes with its own, independent oiling system with cooler, so if you change oil, its gonna be as reliable/durable as eaton. It just needs more maintenence. And 300 hp in FWD is most welcomed. Some newcelica guys have over 400 whp, and they're most happy with that.

Are you willing to give up on side airbags?

Go to www.newcelica.org choose Forums choose Search type in your query, and you gonna get all your questions asked.

No, centrifugal are most efficient. I guess Lotus chose Eaton because (all IMHO): - Garage Frey develped an Eaton-based SC for 2zz-ge - This project has been taken over TTE - So basicly the everything has already been developed - Eatons have internal clutch/boost control (vs in centrifugal you have to use external boost controler) - Eatons allow for less tampering, and even when tampered with, their limited efficiency does not allow for strong overboost, which could be fatal with stock internals - Eatons are "maintanance free", whereas in centrifugal rotrex you have to change oil.

I'd go for Rotrex centrifugal. Install is far easier, it has been done, plus when you decide to upgrade internals the blower is capable od 300 hp. Eaton wouldn't cope. Here is a text and pisc from a british owner:

I don't find the words you quoted insulting at all. Maybe I really need to practice my english, but remember it's not my mother tongue. The words translated to Polish don't sound insulting or whatever. Maybe you should consider this. I really didn;t mean to patronize anyone. Just gave my suggestions, wrote what I think. I also think, that taking such words so personally, might mean the lack of self esteem and belief in ones capabiliters, and - in this context - of car's capabilities. I do not mean to be arrogant, maybe my wording was incorrect. So, for the 3rd time here, I apologize everyone who felt insulted.

I do, but even if I didn't does it mean there's no room for me here? NEVER did that. In fact I already said I respect you (2 times), and that Aus drivers are probably more experienced drag racers than PL ones, and so on... YOU put in my mouth words I've never said. Never accuse. Never praise the abilities of my car. Saying that you need practice is based on that I have the most modified car and I'm the slowest in my group... My car has potential bu I lack knowledge. I posted the timeslip... Hey, I explained the situation. I thought it was posted somewhere. When I realized it wasn't I immediately posted the timeslip. Besides I said I was sorry... I apologized you? Is that not enough? Do I have to post a physical proof of what i THINK is possible? I already said a few posts back that I'll make a vid. Why don't you read carefully instead beating the crap all over. You may get some of it splashed otno your face. Be careful. I don't claim. I think. See the difference? And if not, what you are going to do? Ban me? Don't be ridiculous, man... Do I have to write what YOU like to be a worthy member? Are you playing G OD now?

Ok, I'll take some vids to show you, when i put on new tyres. Maybe I'm not describing it as I should. There was a vid of this launch method done by some british owner who did 14,8 on Santa Pod - in a total stocker, but I'm looking for it for 2 days now, and cannot find. Cannot remember his nick too... I'm losing, because the fastest guy CAN launch from 7000 rpm far better than me... Its not that easy. Im still practicing...

I'd use 20W/15W - 50 Castrol (only TWS) Motul Valvoline http://www.thedieselstop.com/contents/geti...0Oil%20Analysis