Martin_W

Hi Jacob, Was the smell there prior to removal of the Gas? if not, then there's a leak somewhere. I had a fuel leak a while ago after replacing a head gasket. For me, it was my injector seals. Have the injectors been removed during any service? Once the injector comes out, the seal on it MUST be lubricated with fuel otherwise it will rupture on insertion causing leaks. The leak was very minor so there was no noticeable effect on fuel economy, and the vapors entered the cabin through the air inlet for the air conditioning. I guess checking the fuel lines around the engine for leaks would be a place to start. Martin

The spark plugs are seated deeply withing the tubes that DJKOR speak of. if it's leaking in through there then it's not a big fix. If however, it's your valve seals, then the head has to come off and the valve seals replaced. That's a bigger job.

Agreed. If you aren't doing it yourself then it could potentially save hassles later on. Yes the water pump is driven by the timing belt, however given that the engine exerts 240NM of torque at 3Krpm, I doubt very much that a slight difference in belt tension is going to cause a spontaneous water pump failure. The tensioner only keeps the belt from slipping on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. The engine itself is exerting FAR more tension force on the belt than the tensioner. ~M

My '97 Vienta has a 3VZ-FE V6 engine and that has only one timing belt. If you want just the belt itself, it will cost you around $40. Installing it yourself requires some familiarity and all the associated tools. Getting it changed at a workshop will cost you in the order of $200. As for getting the pump changed at the same time? Well if it's damaged or faulty naturally. If it's making noises or the engine is overheating then it's a suspect. It it 'aint broke, don't fix it. Just the unnecessary redistribution of wealth. ~M

Problem resolved. I took the radiator out and sent it off to Natrad. It was 90% blocked. I guess the fact that it only ever got hot under extreme weather conditions, with such a blockage, is a testament to how solid the design of the 3VZ-FE really is. Martin

Hiro Protagonist is right. A simple search in wikipedia found it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Camry While the vehicle's production lifetime may have been 1991-1996, production continued for another year in Australia. Quote : "The 3VZ-FE is a smooth running engine that was used on the Camry platform between 1992 and 1997.5 depending on the market" Unless my car has had an engine refit and VIN's changed, then it's the original engine for an end of production vehicle. Interestingly though, that the origins of the 3VZ-FE are actually based on a truck engine. I guess that explains the VERY tight fit in the engine bay, and the ridiculous engine tilt making the rear head an absolute nightmare to work on. Want to change your spark plugs or check your compression? Entire throttle and induction assembly comes off... Martin Martin

Hi Guys, No joy with the flush. The temperature still rose. There's been a development though. It only rises under load. Sitting stationary at 3K Rpm (after the needle has returned to normal) does not cause the temperature to rise. In a slightly heated state, I measured the top hose at 90*, bottom host at 77* and the head at 104*. After sitting stationary at 3KRpm, the top hose dropped to 86* with the bottom remaining at 77* with the head at 101*. Bit of a pickle this one. Think it's time for a radiator specialist. Thanks for all your advice guys. Martin

I have a friend who used to work at the Toyota service center in Artarmon and he informed me that it definitely better if you do it yourself. There are regular cases where dirty oil is reused during a service. My mother has fallen victim to this after getting her car serviced in Castle Hill.

Your local tip should have an area where you can dispose of old oil. I pour mine on the weeds along the fence :D

Hi, I was of the same opinion initially (Re the small leak) but if that were the case then it probably would have worsened significantly through out the year through combustion venting and burned the gasket to the point of epic failure. Conversely, it there was a leak, then it would be temperature independent and would eventually pressurise the cooling system to the point of venting into the overflow no matter what the ambient temperature. It my radiator flush has no effect I'll be looking at a pressure test and the exhaust detection. The VIN plate indicates 3VZ-FE as does the timing belt cover. It's a 97 camry vienta. Curious... Thanks, Martin

Or... that. Thanks Guys, I didn't expect such a quick response! A little history, about a year ago the head gasket went. I suspect due to the very problem I'm experiencing now. It only happens after prolonged travel on hot days (30+ ambient). At the time it blew, it blew into the water jacket so the oil looked fine, but would start blowing bubbles through the overflow after several KM at any ambient temperature. I inspected the water system for the bubbling you mentioned and yes, it was present, so I replaced the head gasket. Since then, there has been no evidence whatsoever of any overheating or elevated temperatures, untill this summer. At the time of gasket replacemnt, I ordered a genuine filler cap and manifold as the old one was heavily coroded so I have absolute confidence that the assembly is correct. I never touched the radiator pressure cap, only the filler between the rocker covers. The coolant would only have been one year old. I drove to young a couple of weeks ago and I experienced severe problems with temperatures. I had to pull over a number of times to let it cool. Once there I modified the thermostat as mentioned before and placed new coolant in it. I just returned from a half hour trip with the radiator flushing solvent in the cooling system. The fan wasn't working anywhere near as hard but it's only around 25 degrees outside. Top hose was around 80* (as expected) and the return hose around 5* cooler. The head temp sensor was sitting at 94*. I'll flush it out and top it up with anti-freeze/boil and see how it goes tomorrow. Thanks again.

Hi Everyone, I have a Toyota Camry '97 Vienta with 3VZ-FE. It has a tendency to get hot to the verge of overheating while covering long distances. It doesn't loose water nor does it vent through the overflow nor foul the oil so I *think* the head gasket is fine. This condition only presents itself during hot weather (30*C+) and after cruising at 2KRpm+ for around 50Km. I modified the thermostat by cutting off the valve but it still gets hot. I was able to establish fluid flow whilst starting the engine with the radiator cap removed (with modified thermostat) and was able to observe movement but have no idea how much to expect. The fan runs fast and loud when getting hot (this is the hydraulically driven variant from the Power Steering pump) Prior to modification, I tested the thermostat and it opened at 80*C (as expected). I measured some temperatures around the engine. Water hose entering the top of the radiator was around 100*C-110*C, whilst water hose exiting the radiator and thermostat housing were at around 90*C. Should I expect more than a 10-20*C temperature differential through the radiator? Any ideas? Thanks in advance Martin