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Rocketeer1

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Everything posted by Rocketeer1

  1. I can confirm that SOME fuel additives actually work very well, to the point that people are using one of them every tank mixed at 1:1000 ratio, and gaining between 10 and 20% better economy (my vehicles bike included somewhere bout 12-15% for each). Everything I own that burns fuel runs on the stuff now, anytime I pull off a carb, throttle body, intake manifold etc there just is no carbon or varnish- everything down to the valve is spotlessly clean. Some do work. But I cant talk for all.
  2. All I can say is get familiar with Oil analasys. $36 per hit, for very cheap insurance against mechanical failiure. Check out Lubetech Also I know some very smart people in oil, who can give some handy advice on expected wear rates, reading analasys etc. Food for thought......
  3. Rocketeer1

    diff oil

    No idea on model specific, so this is general info ONLY. Look up Mobil.com.au and check out lubematch, or Penrite.com.au and look for lube recommendations. Whatever you use for the diff, ensure it is rated EP- or Extreme Pressure. This is an actual rating, first achieved by Mobil themselves in the 90's. Look out also if it is an LSD, as additive packages are altered to suit the metals found in LSD.
  4. Never heard of it. By all means ask for MSDS and any tech data, including testing available. GENERALLY if a workshop uses an oil, its because of cost. However some actually do choose oils based on its performance characteristics, although the latter is rare. Would look through the websites for info but my internet is way slow...
  5. hey hey & welcome I have an AE102, 1995 model. As far as the paint goes, that is easy- yeah, I believe (just based on what I have seen) the toyotas of this era (then again commodores and falcons arent immune by all means) do show their age when not very well looked after. This can be restored. Things like faded paint, and tree sap need to be agressively treated- using things like paint cutters (like cut and polish). Applying by hand has mixed results. I know myself if I hand cut a car, it not only takes a full day non stop work from dawn till dusk and then some to do it properly, even then its not as good as a machine applied job. I am aware that meguires and others do produce these palm polisher things, which people with them do recommend (I think worth around $250?). Please, dont go looking at the cheap orbital polishers available at supercheap- they really arent worth the money. I got myself a decent rotary buff and pads for around $200, but you do need to be very careful with these. You can also visit a detailer, who can cut and wax your paint work for (last time I looked) around $100. After that, its just a case of maintaining the finish, which is a lot easier than restoring. As far as the vibrations go- sorry, I really cant help you there. Exhaust issue? I really wouldnt think so. You've got me stumped on that one....
  6. my '95 has the centre garnish panel- its white along with the tail lights- not sure if its a feature of the 'RV' variant.....
  7. Keep in mind those who are running gas, that it has differing properties to petrol. Most importantly, its a very clean, hot burning fuel. Clean- you wont get sludges in a gas engine. Hot- cylinder temps are far hotter than petrol. Please dont stick with thin (10w30 and the like) oils. Any vehicles we see running on gas go straight to 25w60, typically with fuel economy benefits in the region of 17% (taxi's love the stuff) because 'typical' thinner oils cannot stand the increased temps.
  8. The use of high detergent engine oils negates the need for flushing, providing they are changed at appropriate intervals. Usually oils with a Diesel rating as well as petrol is suitable I generally only flush when changing from synthetic back to mineral
  9. i cant help but laugh whenever i read 'lifetime fluid'. the previous response is spot on. done regularly, all you need to do is drop the pan and replace the fluid that is dropped. by 100k its pretty well due for changing, as you suggested.
  10. its not ideal, w60 is fairly heavy for a small 4 cyl (keeping in mind we do run 25w60 in 4 cyl track bikes and track cars- but they are working a hell of a lot harder). realistically w50 is ideal. w60 wont cause damage.
  11. ....and bearing plates.....
  12. Kit arrived yesterday, decided to fit last night. After dark, in on and off rain- took around an hour to fit, with routing wiring though areas to make a clean install. Bloody hell I forgot how bright these things are- coming from a 1995 headlight- which at best was poor on badly lit roads- cant wait to see how it goes. no issues with fitting- everything went quite smoothly. Still to do- couple of cable ties on wires, and tie down the ballasts a little better, and aim headlights.
  13. Also going through GSL Rallysport (eventually). Always the first call for suspension or brakes...... KYB over Munroe anyday
  14. Ah, there you go. Is it obvious I dont know the model :P Dammit i knew i should have looked it up, but just assumed based on age....sorry All as above.
  15. A guess- sounds like you have some sort of carby issues. The milky oil under the cap CAN be just condensation. I'd start with basics- compression test all cylinders inc. leakdown if you can, or dry VS wet. Get a stiffer test and possibly pressure test on the cooling system (sniffer test- dont know what its called, but detects combustion gasses in the cooling system) As far as revs going up and down, and blowing back smoke- that to me sounds like carby issues, and she's running rich as hell if it runs better without the filter. Carb rebuild kit shouldnt cost much..... Is she missing at all, or running hot?
  16. (from memory) tps should show different resistance when throttle closed, to just slightly open. I believe on the commodores it was something like enough throttle to hold it at 2000 revs in neutral when warm, so just barely open. Fuel additives- I use one religiously, because i know it does what its supposed to. But I have no idea whether other commercial additives work. That is, if your injectors are blocked or have a poor spray pattern, which should be noticeable with a poor idle, poor fuel economy and even a miss when accelerating (as opposed to a lag)
  17. dont know the model, all i can say is ensure it has a really good tranny fluid cooler fitted, and even consider going to a quality trans fluid. Heat is the typical killer of auto trannys. The computer should be calibrated to ensure there is no over-torquing of the box, so shouldnt be an issue using fifth, long as it does kick back when required.
  18. My money is on the Throttle Position Sensor.
  19. hey hey In no way associated with this mob, apart from the fact that I do ride with him, and buy most of my bike gear through him. Tim has a good reputation amongst the harder riding/ track/ amateur race community in Brisbane, and always found him approachable if there is an issue. As posted on another forum, thought it may come in handy here..... "We currently have the TDL HID lighting kits on Special for $110 a Pair. 6000K Temp 35W. The kit includes two (2) slim ballasts, (2) 6000K HID Lamps, Wiring Kit, Etc Selet from the following lamp types: H1, H3, H4, H7, H8, H9, H10, H11, H13 We also have the HID Bi-Xenon High/Low kits in H4 6000K for $150 a kit (2 Ballasts, Lamps, etc) Online at www.superbikesupply.com.au" I've ordered a set of H4 bi-xenon for the corolla, hopefully fit this weekend. I believe he can do other temps, and 55w kits, contact him directly for info. Hope this is good for someone! Cheers
  20. Get it looked at. You can certainly 'knock' it and listen for anything loose as a first bushmans check, but then most muffler shops will have a laser thermometer and can tell within a few minutes if it is still effective. Something I am planning on doing with mine soon....
  21. Rocketeer1

    Mixing Oils

    oh, really your going from Mobil to Valvoline to save fuel? Generally Mobil is a far higher quality than valvoline. What were you using before, and what was your change in consumption? Look you probably can mix them, but its definantly not recommended. Look I only know one oil I can say will reduce fuel consumption, but in a petrol passenger vehicle, even that struggles to achieve better than 10% or so (compared to 'average' oils). By all means try the valvoline, but i really dont think you will achieve much. Again even the best that I know of doesnt have that great an effect.....
  22. Rocketeer1

    Mixing Oils

    Honestly? I really wouldnt. For the sake of 1 litre of oil, i really wouldnt. What is the other oil? and why change from the Mobil you are using? Reason I say is we dont know if the bases are the same, or if the additive packs will mix suitably. Just buy a 1 litre of the oil you intend to use, or 5 litres and have 4 waiting for next time. It is safer to do so.
  23. Cut from my original thread on another forum. The intention was to- a. Investigate overall performance of lubrication. B. see without a doubt the benefit of going from Motul to a superior product. c. To continue analasys for a long time to come. Unfortunately the machine was stolen, just as the next analasys was due, which I was very interested to see the result of......first analasys on Motul 5100 10w30, cost $60 per 4 litres (approx). Subsequent analasys on PM Lubricants PM412 15w40 (cost $60 per 5 litres approx). the bike- 2005 CBR600RR, run everyday for stop/ start commuting, and weekend fun, which included 500k spirited runs through ranges and twisty roads, and track work. The engine is a 600ml twin double overhead cam 16v fuel injected, water cooled. Absolutly shocking result. Silica level is waaaaay high (at least double what it should be) all wear matierials seriously elevated- particularly the worst- iron and aluminium. Very poor result- ie if things continued as they are, I would be looking at bearings by say 50,000k's, rings soon after. Only lost a little viscosity (at 40°c) and oxidation is present- ie the oil has been affected by heating/ cooling process. Particle count is right up there. Very, very dissappointing. Keep in mind caution values are calculated at 10,000k's. So multiplying the values out to the same k's shows how bad it is. The absolute saving grace- copper is not sky high (but is definantly present), and fuel dilution is low coupled with an overall clean result. This means wear is not yet extreme- bearings are still serviceable, rings are still sealing. Solution: Filter is either blocked (full of dust) or there is air ingress past the filtration. Filter must be checked at least at 12,000k's, and will not last 24,000k's as the manufacturer suggests (that is, if it is filter blockage). Will be investing in a washable filter. Will also have to check all areas of intake system and filter to airbox seal. Really dont want to ride much untill it is rectified, and will not be riding hard untill it is done. Damn. Molybdenum appears to be doing nothing for wear (I understand moly has to be up around several hundred ppm to be effective). Oil is somewhere slightly more lubricative than grinding paste when changed. I am soooooooooo glad at the very least that I flushed the motor when changing oil, removing a good deal of contaminant. Best $33 I have spent in a while. At least I know now how bad it is before seeing extreme wear. Another analasys will be performed in around 6,000 k's, would like to do some dielectric testing along the way. Unfortunately it is not going to be a fair PM VS Motul test, silica levels have screwed that right up. A couple of months later..... Interesting things to note: PM has been in there for 12,436 k's, VS motul at 5,500k's. There was an oil filter change at 6,000k's. So PM has done twice the work of Motul. Yet, wear materials are around 50% of the motul when worked out ppm/1000k's. Effectively, even with the extended oil drain, wear has been dramatically reduced. Considering also within that 12,000k's was 2 track days, and I am learning to ride her harder. Result indicates there is still dust getting in. I dont know whether through the filter, around, or elsewhere- maybe the airbox isnt quite sealed somewhere. I do have a repaired crack in it, which I may look at again to make sure its all good. There has been the thought that since there is still elevated aluminium, rings may be fairly soft, in comparison to other models. Ok so testing indicates mechanical wear rates are well and truly heading in the right direction, but it would be wise to re-look at the airbox, and figure out what is going on with the intake of dust. I had seriously considered forgoeing the latest test, but at the last minute decided to go through with it. Bloody glad I did. Oil is about to be dumped at almost 13,000k's as it has lost a little viscosity (I believe its due to the change from motul to PM, as I had a similar thing in the ZX6r when changing from Motul to PM)and to remove the contaminants. At the same time, i will be looking at the airbox. Continue analasys at 6,000k intervals. I am still going to try pushing changes out to 24,000k's with filter changes at 6,000 (have to figure out how to get the filter off without removing fairings), as I know a few bikes now who have successfully done it, and still shown good wear results. Keeping in mind though, that these are larger bore machines, and would not work nearly as hard as the little 600cc screamer. Cost of tests to date- $33 odd x 3- $ 99 odd. Knowing the internal condition of the engine and longevity of oil- priceless. Further- I would dearly love to know how long filters would typically last, but apart from someone cutting them open in lab conditions, its really hard to know. Since I am onto K&N's for $20 a hit, its not too bad. Although I have been told of one or two manufacturers who produce filters for cars with 30,000k guarantees. Dunno if they are in bikes yet.....and damn these sportsbikes- no where to fit bypass filtration.
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