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Everything posted by webby293

  1. The MAF can now be ruled out as i swapped it over and it didnt help and his car worked fine. Im going to try and get the injectors cleaned this wedsneday at CIT. In the mean time im going to rule out if the clutch is slipping, I was talking to a guy at tech and he said his car had a similar problem, and it was the clutch, at his work they said the clutch was stuffed but adjusted it anyway and it accelerated fine afterwoulds. But mines hydaulic so im going to change/bleed the system to see if the problem lyes withing the clutch, it does seem to crunch sometimes when the clutch is fully pressed and the car is at a complete stand still, i will also do some prelim checks specified in the service manual. Also im thinking of running a can of upper cylinder cleaner through the engine to help get rid of the carbon build up around the valves and on top of the piston before the injectors get cleaned, what is your opinions on that stuff, i can get a can of Wynn's Upper Cylinder Cleaner for $12.
  2. No they didnt test it, because they said it was fine, but i have cleaned it and seen no improvement, i have also checked the resistance of it and it checked out at the right ohms according to my service manual. tomorrow i will ask a guy at tech who has the 3RZ-FE in his car, if i can swapp the MAF and go for a drive to see if it improves, if not and he's car goes fine then i think we can rule out the MAF. Also i forgot to mention this earlier, when i changed the spark plugs, i looked down into the pistons, all of them has a dark brown rly rough surface on them, like a very course sand paper, the intake manifold and throttle valve was full of carbon build up.
  3. Couple of guys at work checked it out, they removed the floor mat and said it was fine. But i disagree it still doesnt sound right to me-when i first bought it and it didnt have floor mats, a mechanic with over 40yrs experience looked at it and said it has hesitation.
  4. I cleaned the trhottle body and top half of the intake manifold - the plenom side, and it has helped a bit but still has the problem, i am going to see if i can make a tempory swap of the MAF and see if that solves the problem, if it does, i'll be buying one from Frank's parts for $110 second hand with warranty.
  5. I have tested the TPS, and here is the results, CLOSED: 2.792K Ohm Open about 5mm from idle screw: 2.68K Ohm Approx Half open: 1.8K Ohm OPEN: 0.815K Ohm There are also no sensor fault codes when i bridge the wires to activate the OBD to get the engine light to flash codes, and the code it flashed was everything ok, but its nowhere near as thorough as using a scan tool, which is what im hopefully doing tomorrow
  6. I have good news if the problem is caused by dirty fuel injectors, at CIT (Canberra Tech) they have an injector cleaning/ testing machine, the ultrasonic type and they are happy for me to bring in my injectors and test and clean them, for free. Problem is, they don't allow me to take off the injectors at CIT so i have to do it at home and use public transport to get there and back, but i guess the end results would be worth it. I will also check the resistance of the TPS, and post in the results of the resistance.
  7. the car has done 194 thou, it has an airflow sensor, i believe it works fine, it has 2 ignition coil packs, and how can I check the TPS? Also if the sensors are all fine, whats your opinion on fuel additives?
  8. Ah ok, valve timing, got it. I don't know if this will contribute to the problem or is the cause, but the previuos owner must have removed the EGR valve and all related vacuum hoses, and plugged it all up, is the beneficial in the sence that it doesnt circulate exhaust, or does it confuse the ECU if it has been suddenly removed? Thanx for your recommendations
  9. I had my ute checked out today, i asked them to check the timing and because its DIS i can't check the timing with a timing light (according to the mechanic) and apparently because its all computer controlled it should never change unless the ECU stuffs up which i do not believe it is, but he told me to clean out the throttle body, which i did today and it didnt help, he said he will scan it next week because it has OBD2. Does anyone know what else i can try. Thanks
  10. Ah, ok. I did take it to a mechanic when i bought it, he was supposed to check the timing but didnt, so yeah i'll ask at work Thanks
  11. Hi guys, new here. I have a 1999 hilux xtra cab rwd, RZN154R engine is 3RZ-FE (2.7L Multi point EFI) that i bought second hand about 1 month ago, and it has acceleration hesitaion which is starting to annoy me, especially when driving round canberra where i need to accelerate quick. in any of the gears, even first, when i bought my foot right down it just sounds like its going to stall, similar to a badly tuned whipper snipper that burs when the throttle is opened. Then at around 20-30km in first it will just suddenly take off as the revs very slowly build up to that point (not sure what the rpm is as it doesnt have a tacho). It sounds like it is lean from the injectors not compensating for the wide open throttle. This is what i have done to try and solve the problem. Cleaned air filter, changed oil and oil filter, changed spark plugs, and cleaned the throttle body, i have also ran it on a tank of v-power 98 mixed with Nulon total fuel system cleaner, on the free way for 4hrs, helped a bit, but got worse a couple of weeks after treatment. I would normally ask at work as i am a 1st yr apprentice mechanic but the work is flat out there and haven't had time to ask yet. Help is much appreciated Thanks