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ben yip

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Everything posted by ben yip

  1. Good Pick of the brakes, please attach a photo of what it is like now. Thanks
  2. http://www.rhdjapan.com/bride-seat-rail-subframe-type-ro-toyota-64218 it fits Toyota Auris NZE151H (Zenki- 10/06-10/09) Eng: 1NZ-FE Toyota Auris NZE151H (Kouki- 10/09- ) Eng: 1NZ-FE but confirm with them
  3. Quite clean underneath, not even a dust !!! hope to see your car this sunday, John
  4. 1) 69.NIX 2) Jaay (50/50) 3) WY 4) ChrisZRE 5) rentaspace + x4 other cars (x3 Corollas and a second 6th 6) Noodlez 7) Juvenile 8) A.Rice 9) Ben Yip
  5. More pictures please john
  6. Nice driving on wakefield................ any feeling on that day regarding the driving?
  7. suprise, struct brace for this car in http://www.ultraracing.com.my
  8. No, Can you read carefully the label, it is designed for UK Auris 1.4, 1.6, not JP Auris at the first place.. It will fit your car. and I can find the part number in remsa web shop (if you know spanish), I don't know Spanish, but it did not take long to find my car there. All European Auris is listed in the web shop Do not contact that ebay seller, that ebay seller is in Australia, contact the one in UK. Goodridge is a UK brand, why would it make something not fit their car in UK at the first place. No need to make a copy kit...Go to Toyota and ask their part number, the part number for brake lines has not been changed for a long time, so the Goodridge lines will fit
  9. i think so, they are manufactured in UK, why would it not fit your car !!! I lost the part number already, but it is better for you to ask first, I have called Goodridge via someone else before buying it..You can ask Toyota to see whether the OEM part number for the brake line is the same since 2001..
  10. Remsa is cheap and good, temperature is 650 degrees, it only costs me 114 AUD per pair for front. thus it is europoean made, save your postage fee. It is designed for european auris as you can find in the following label, so you don't need to worry about the fitment. This pad You just need to find the supplier in Europe QFM is made locally in Australia, and it has to be custom made here, the good ones costs $170 per pair for front, and they are not designed for heavy street use because they kill rotors, so REMSA is your choice. For braided brake lines, I use Goodridge (UK made). it is the same as last version of auris (pre 07) using ZZE engines http://www.ebay.com....=item3cb885bf89 Please don't expect to find everything on the internet, you need to pick up the phone and call to ask My car is made in Japan
  11. saw the threads on the rear shock, is this a coilover? The thread can only be seen at the top part of the shock ath the front?
  12. i can only tell you when I pull off my left seat, there is one plug for the airbag (one yellow, one grey), and one for the seat belt sensor... I am not an electrican, but I guess you can do something about it
  13. remsa, spanish pads I use them on the track and they are brilliant
  14. I have done a lot of research in this areas, in summary, in some scenario, large rotor might stops longer due to brake bias imbalance. Brake balance is an such important factor to be considered, unfortunately, it is very hard to adjust, even with bigger front rotor, the braking distance actually increase..The first link below shows braking distance increase in a Honda DC5 after changing to a large front rotor I won't go for larger rotor because if you study the brake mechanism (http://www.myturbodi...c/brake/PF3.jpg), master cyclinder is not designed for that. changing the rotor will just imbalnce the braking equation I recommend you read the following articles. I have cleared up a lot of misconception about braking http://www.sportcomp...tech/index.html - case where a well designed big brake kit on a modified car resulted in worse braking http://www.zeckhause...kes.htm#Summary - test result on different size rotors, increasing the rotor size by 28mm will result in decreasing braking distance by 5 feet from 100mph to 0 http://www.myturbodi...q/brake_FAQ.htm
  15. change before (and prefer after), i use the oil three times on the track 0w-40, 5w-40... just don't push hard with the brakes and you will be fine at stock, mine rotor has a temperature 370 to 400C when driving hard, stock pad break down >300C, so make you dont brake hard, and take a lap to cool down
  16. change to use synthetic ones, same goes for the gear box.. factory oil will break down at high temperature,resulted in reduced lubrication... change your pad and brake fluid.. factory pad will decompose at high temperature and wrap your disc... factory fluid will boil easily, resulted in losing brake power... i suggest u don,t drive hard if u don t do the above suggest u to use nulon for oil
  17. you are on the edge already, i cannot find any mistake on 10-12 minute on the video...It was brilliant driving.... to get another few tenth is not easy, given that you push that hard already.. unless you do something else to the car or tyre. I guess
  18. Just for safety, please upgrade your brake pad first before going to your first track day, the factory pad is pretty ****ty, I use Remsa, you can order from GSL rallsport in queensland.. Change your tyres as well to a better one would be better
  19. 1: Nix19 2: Hiro (maybe, would meet up part-way at Richmond) 3: juvenile ( depending on work) 4. ohy34h (pending im not hung over from bday celebrations the night before! LOL .. otherwise ill just rock up late) 5: Kreezy* (Maybe) 6: Ben Yip ( depending on XXX) Sorry for the delete, not paying attention to the post
  20. Not looking good, and bug bucks to fix Good luck for winton, I miss this one
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