QUICKSILVER

There is a post somewhere here on CAI B)

Thanks. ← OMG Not another South African :D

Does this only happen when the aircon is on? The following comment is specific to the 2ZZGE, but will apply the 1ZZ as well, imho. The ECU has an integrated idle up function. Via sensors, this function is activated and sends and receives signals from the idle control valve. Now, your idle control valve also controls your idle speed during warm up cycles after a cold start. The aircon compressor fitted to the RunX RSi is a very small unit, which saps a small amount of horsepower, when activated. But saying that, it runs a hefty 12 bar worth of pressure. When the compressor activates, it will put some strain on the engine and rpm would decrease, at idle, from +- 800 rpm to around 500 rpm. The idle up function will communicate with the control valve to up rpm, typically to around 1200 rpm. However, in extreme conditions, like a hot day in traffic where you’re pottering around at walking speed, the activation and deactivation of the compressor, together with the activities of the control valve can result in the symptom described. This is mainly attributable to the fact that there are a variety of factors that could all be applicable at that point in time. Consider that the activation and deactivation of the aircon compressor is dependent on the gas temperature, the gas pressure as well as evaporation radiator activities. This will result in continuous activation and deactivation of the compressor as well as continuous activity from the idle up function to try and compensate for this. The result is “idle hunting”. That’s the long of it. The short of it….its normal and there is no need to be concerned. Here is the link with some background to the South African owner's concerns. http://www.tolken.co.za/twincamforum/viewt...?t=5320&start=0 Hope this helps

In addition to the revised ECU and air cleaner caps (as part of the recall process), the new RunX RSi's also include a slightly revised exhaust system.

I think its got more to do with Toyota Motor Corporation's aspirations. I had an exten sive discussion with a senior manager at Toyota South Africa. Fact is, they're not in the business of making cars, but in the business of nmaking money. So whilst you and I and a host of other people thing that we need more performance orientated vehicles from TMC / TSA / TMCA, the fact is that the majority of Toyota buyers are quite content with what they've got. In fact, I'm certain that TMC view the M3 as an automotive stuff up - thats right :o They view the car as madly impractical, excessively noisy, over wheeled and very thirsty. Probably 5 percent of owners will explore the true capabilities of the car and the other 95 percent won't. Don't get mne wrong, I love the M3 - I think that its one of the best sport saloon's available, but from a Toyota point of view, they believe that its a waste of money.

You should be shot for that comment What happened to being "Proudly South African"? Manufacturer product lines are often dictated by demand and by a global supply chain management model. TSA are dictated by their Japanese counterparts. They are told what to produce and who to supply. The fact that South Africa or Audtralia or Greenland, for that matter, does not get a product, has got more to do with the bigger picture than your and my personal expectations.

Hi, from sunny South Africa :D I've seen a few posts about a "clutch adjustment" to resolve the grating gears / notch gear changes. Please provide specific details regarding this field fix. Is it an official fix by TMCA and does anyone have a copy of the technical bulletin issued to dealers? Toyota South Africa have no idea of this fix and suspect that it may have come straight from Japan. Please help B)

It won't fit in South African and Australian spoecced vehicles, because of the choice of sterring assistance used (in the UK, they use electromechanical power steerings)

As you can appreciate, its difficult to diagnose a problem on the net However, to check if it is the thrust bearing, put the car in neutral and let it idle whislt your care is at a standstill. Then put your clutch in. If a noise eminates, it will be your thrust bearing. I'm noit too sure, but this diagnosis makes sense to me based on my understanding on how the thrust bearing works.

Whats up all? OK. There's 2 different issues that I can establish that concerns you...and both are not symptomatic problems. Issue 1 When decelerating under engine compression or accererelating , particularly in lower gears under lower rpm conditions, you hear a growl / rattle coming from the transmission area entering the cabin???? All that you are hearing is transaxle activity and Toyota gearboxes are, unfortunately, notorius for this. A fieldfix has been developed for this on all Corolla models, but does not eliminate the problem completely. The transaxle cable is fitted with a damper to reduce the intrusion of this noise into the cabin. The growl, as mentioned before, is also evident under acceleration under low rpm conditions. The growl should become less noticeable as you go higher up the rev range as well as moving up to a higher gear. Its purely an NVH issue and should not concern you. Issue 2 When the engine is idling under certain conditions, a rattling / ticking noise may make its way into the cabin. This noise is amplified, under certain conditions, when the aircon unit is turned on. If you put in / engage your clutch, the noise goes away. If you experience this symptom, your car suffers from gear clatter. There is no cure for this and does not signify a malfunction. Many will tell you that it possibly would be a release or thrust bearing problem. This is not the case. The increased noise levels attributable to gearbox activity is attributable to the fact that the casings are thinner to reduce weight. The problem is amplified as the underbody sealing and noise supression is poor. Hope this helps.

Its the top part of the air box, and must be changed as it contains a less restrictive air port.

See, I told you so :P

I don't think we were supposed to feel a big difference as mentioned in the recall info provided by TMCA. I did get a silver sticker on the driver's side, just ask the dealer for it. I am not sure about the difference in the aircap but someone did mention there is a change in the inside of the cap where there is a white piece of plastic. Not sure what purpose it serves but that could be what they changed or maybe something closer to the throttle body. I might drive the car back tomorrow and ask the mechanics to provide me with more details. The gear selctor cable i have at the moment is no larger than before. There are differences but not a noticible incrrease in size. Zee Of course you're suppose to feel the difference. Theres around a 4 - 7kW gain at 7800 rpm and torque increases by up to 10Nm between 3000 and 6000 rpm, depending on where you are under full throttle. As I mentioned before, give your ECU between 200 and 500km to "learn" the parameters as these will be set during each warm up cycle. Therefore, it seemed to help us in SA to drill the car for a bit after the oil temperature and gearbox warmed up nicely. You'll see that it gets stronger with more kms. Also, on the Aircleaner cap, the inside contains a white piece of plastic. Previously, this had a "step down with a mesh type cover which was very restrictive. The newer cap looks exactly like the old one on the outside. However, the intake nozzle is shorter and wider. Also, it does not have the mesh cover.

Leather is still standard on the new facelift Sportivo's... not an option. In the UK its an option. No BS.

Bad luck mate.

As I said earlier, you'll see a new Stivo only in 2005.

Nice to see that you guys are getting your upgradesw now. Give the ECU between 200km and 500km to "settle in" as it measures certain parameters within the first few warm up cycles. Driving style seems to be important during this period (I can't say why, but take it from me - it makes a difference). So teach that ECU some manners and have lots of fun filled kilometers

Well things just got a little more interesting. While the car has been booked in for Monday next week, TCC were surprised because they indicated they doubted the dealer had the parts ! I am awaiting a call back from the dealer... RE: Oil According to my service report for 1000K service they put in the Castrol GTX2 full synthetic oil. GTX 2 is a mineral oil - not synthetic. Futron and GTX Magnatec is semi synthetic. Also, the TMC approved oil is GTX 2

Chill, mate. In terms of Aussie standards, vehicles producing more than 140kW are considered to be sport vehicles. Therefore, the staqndard allows for a higher noise level. When the vehicle was approved for the Australian market (through homologation standards), the noise levels were tested in one gear (a requirement for 140+ kW vehicles. However, as it was discovered that the vehicles delivered less than 140kW (thanks to us ) it was realised that the car had not been properly homologated. Thats all.

If the fieldfix on the Australian destined Sportivos is exactly like the SA spec vehicles, the following information may be relevan and may answer some of your questions. The new air box cap is less restrictive than the unit that it replaces. The induction module no longer has a step down The ECU has been remapped to advance timing from 21 degrees to 24 degrees under full blown throttle. This will NOT put any additional pressure on any drivetrain components. It will not result in pinging, either. The timing can be advanced (through a remap) easily to 27 degrees without any risk of mechanical failure. As noted in another post, the upgraded cables no longer feature metal sleeves and will be available from October. The kit also includes a new (heavier) gearknob to improve feel. On the performance and chip side of things. Don't expect a fire breathing dragon after the upgrade. The vehicle will be more driveable between 3000 and 6000 rpm, with a noticeable improvement in torque (around 7 Nm in that rev range). If you're expecting 10kW or 20kW, you're going to be dissapointed. Actual power gained (on the wheels) should be between 2 and 5kW. I don't really frequent this forum that often. If you need additional info, please pm me.

Hi all Just some feedback on the gear cable rattle issue. TSA have confirmed that new level cables have been designed and will be available in October in South Africa for rollout to vehicles affected by the gear cable vibration issue. Vehicles will not be recalled but will be subject to the fieldfix on a complaint basis. The new cable no longer has inner metal sleeves. Furthermore, a new heavier gearknob (100g) will be supplied as part of the kit. The kit also includes a bracket mounted to the firewall. The replacement of the gear cables does NOT require the removal of you dashboard. What does need to be removed is the silver panel around the gear lever. The centre consol (consol between the drivers seat) needs to also be removed. There is a computerbox ahead of the gearlever (once the consol is removed) that will also need to be removed. The excersise is not pleasant as the panels can be damaged during removal and refit if not looked after. Particular care should be taken when removing the center consol as it can scratch against the seatbelt bolts. The silver panel should be carefully stowed away to prevent scuffing during the fix.

No ways mate. The SA spec version was rated at 115kW and we got every drop of it.

NOBOADY HEARD OF SUSPENSION? In Europe its already out. Apart from slightly different looks you get new suspension which alone is wort waiting for. It's as comfy as before, but in turns feels like CTR. It has shocks with sort of "return springs" built in (they help to expand the shock) plus strut braces with dynamic stiffness control. Look beautiful. Impossible to cheaply install in before face lift due to different shock mounts. The South African and Australian versions DO NOT get the suspension mod. Also, the Optitron dash stays in the Stivo / RunX RSi The "silver bits" gets replaced by carbon fibre look finishes. The seats remain unchanged BTW, the Stivo is likely to reach Aussie shores only in the new year!!!

My bad!!!!!! Sorry

Ahhh, so you too. It seems that the reason for this is 2 fold: 1stly, these boxes are extremely sensitive to ambient temperature. Secondly, a reason could be windup, which is perfectly normal - i.e. the wheel speed, transaxel speed and engine speed are not in sync at the point that you want to shift. Apparently, its a law of physics, which the gearbox design does not defy.