CONROD

Do you mean the speedo Drive, as its too old to have a speedo sensor. The speedo drive is what the speedo cable screws onto, its on the extension housing, unscrew the cable and speedo drive is held in by one 10mm bolt

Yeah the one I got has it👌

Totally agree with Tony, BS whoever wrote that doesn't understand, the best way to kill a battery is let it completely discharge, and if you can't trickle charge a battery, why did Toyota do it ??? . The one I posted is the one I use as I needed it to maintain an 850CCA 95Ah AGM battery and I can't fault it., had it for years now, noticed the updated version is suitable for Lithium batteries. I affixed the supplied harness to the battery terminals, so all I have to do is plug it in to the charger lead and walk away, knowing the charger will go through whatever steps are required and once fully charged, settle into trickle mode. C-Tek is also a good brand as Tony P uses Supercheap and Autobarn have them, but like everything you get what you pay for

You need to get yourself one of these, I have one mounted next to my weekend driver, works perfect. If you read thru it can be left switch on/ connected indefinitely 12V 5-Stage Car & Motorbike Maintenance Charger (0.8A / 3.8A, IP65 rated) | Jaycar Electronics

Sure Can, they will just burn oil,

Next time it does it grab hold of the Top radiator hose ( caution it will be hot to touch ) and if its bubbling, you will feel it, the top hose should feel firm due to pressure, if its not,put a new Radiator Cap on it

How longs a piece of string, some might charge you the cost of new valve stem seals + hrly rate, others might just give you a price for the job. What you need to price is a VRS kit, It has all the gaskets you will need inc Head Gasket, as well as the Valve Stem Seals, Beware of Chinese rubbish, such as the attached Ebay link below which I used to show you whats in the kit, personally I wouldnt use it Engine Gasket Set + Head Bolts for Camry RAV4 2AZ-FE 2.4L Avensis Verso Previa 313041891842 | eBay The Valve stem seals are # 10 & # 11 to give some perspective as to what they are. Below is an Aust Seller, Permaseal is a Good Brand PERMASEAL VRS GASKET KIT FOR TOYOTA Avensis Camry Estima RAV4 Tarago 2AZ-FE | eBay

What you are getting on start up sounds like vapor, cold engine, cold ambient temp, hot exhaust gases, especially when you state it goes after a minute or two, our new cars do it. One way of seeing if its Valve Stem Seals, is to go down a long incline ( Hill ) closed trailing throttle, then you should have a trail of blue smoke emitted from the tailpipe, this is caused by High Manifold vacuum drawing in oil past the valve stem seals more so if you open it up at the bottom, or hot engine after its been idling for a while then go to take off. A blown head gasket would be causing a miss at idle, and if its corroded water passages, your coolant level would be slowly diminishing. All engines produce some pressure when the oil cap is removed, there's a lot going on in there, more so if it's an overhead cam, some more than others, valve stems are an easy swap over, hell we are talking about an engine with 340,000km plus. No amount of additives will help especially seeing by now the stem seals will be hard and brittle. If it were me I'd be running a 20w 50 weight oil The thing will go for ever, you are worrying too much

Good to hear it didn't cause any real dramas, fusible link saved the day seeing how it was a Dead Short

Surely you would of had trouble getting the smaller Earth Terminal Lead going down over the Positive Post, and how did you manage to get the Positive terminal tight on the Negative Post

Give these Fellas a buzz or drop them an email Berrima Diesel Service - Australias Premier 4WD Service Centre

Are you Sure its got a DPF ? being a 2013!!! Who told you it has one? You need to go to a Toyota Dealer and get someone Knowledgeable to point one out to you on a Prado with one equipped. and then look at yours as I'm pretty sure Toyota didnt introduce DPF's till 2015 to the meet Euro 5 emission specs.

👍 Yeah all good, just be sure to grab all spacers for chassis and mark which goes where

Get a clean rag, douse it in WD40 wipe along the wiper blades and be amazed at the amount of black gunk that comes off, stops chatter, no smearing , works wonders on soap scum removal in the bathroom shower screen also

Totally understand where you are coming from, In my little workmate I run 42psi front and 36-37psi rear ( unladen ) Tyres last nearly 90,00km and wear beautiful. They rely on pressure to support the stiff sidewall

If its using oil, wonder they didn't put in a 50 weight oil

They are machining them as the rotors are probably glazed. get it done and the new pads will enjoy a long happy life. Bendix Front Disc pads from Supercheap are around $90 When they machine the rotors it will include the time needed to remove/ reinstall , repack the bearings, as they need to take them off the front Stub axles.

If they are [ LT ] light truck, you will kill them running them under inflated

Petrol or Diesel ?

Have you tried putting a couple good squirts of engine oil into the Cyl to see if that builds up compression?

Valve clearance been checked and double checked, Exhaust valve not burnt?

give this mob a buzz, they'll sort the mess out, there's a video somewhere actually showing how much sludge comes out the sump drain after using it Engine Sludge...Act quickly, or it'll kill your engine. - Cost Effective Maintenance

Low rpm, low speed, say 30-40kph, 3rd gear. Then wide-open throttle, do this half a dozen times, it forces the Top Ring out, to bed in, but don't rev the sh+t out of it, slow down and repeat process, but to have Nil compression on one cyl points to something not right, and having associated miss Head tightening procedure and torque specs: Step 1: 78 Nm; 8.0 kg·m; 58 ft·lb Step 2: Turn all bolts 90° Step 3: Turn all bolts 90° Camshaft bearing cap 25 Nm; 2.5 kg·m; 18 ft·l Cylinder block Cylinder block alloy Cast iron Compression ratio: 22.2:1 Cylinder bore: 96.0 mm (3.78 in) Piston stroke: 96.0 mm (3.78 in) Number of piston rings (compression / oil): 2 / 1 Number of main bearings: 5 Cylinder bore inner diameter: 96.000-96.010 mm (3.7795-3.7799 in) Piston skirt diameter 95.940-95.950 mm (3.7772-3.7776 in) Piston ring groove clearance: First 0.028-0.077 mm (0.0011-0.0030 in) Second 0.060-0.105 mm (0.0024-0.0041 in) Oil 0.030-0.070 mm (0.0012-0.0028 in) Piston ring end gap: First 0.350-0.470 mm (0.0138-0.0185 in) Second 0.400-0.500 mm (0.0157-0.0197 in) Oil 0.200-0.500 mm (0.0079-0.0197 in) Piston pin outer diameter 29.000-29.012 mm (1.1417-1.1422 in) Connecting rod small end diameter (standard) 29.008-29.020 mm (1.142-1.1425 in) Crankshaft main journal diameter: 61.985-62.000 mm (2.4403-2.4409 in) Crankpin diameter: 52.988-53.000 mm (2.0861-2.0866 in)

Reso Mat 👍 TRU-FIT resomat: Product test (whichcar.com.au)

I just have the handle section on, left the spring and latch off, Lid acts like it should just doesn't lock, which suits my needs