CONROD

Have a squizz 4x4 (coast4x4wreckers.com.au)

To check if its the booster leaking or not holding vacuum, Have your foot OFF the brakes, shut it down, leave it 10- 15 minutes, go back and push your foot down on the brake pedal, you should get at least 3 good applications as per normal ( if the booster is not at fault ) then you should notice the pedal get harder and the stroke should reduce as the vacuum is depleted in the booster, after that whilst holding your foot on the pedal start the engine and the pedal should fall away as the vacuum is applied to the booster. Given the age of your vehicle if its the original pump chances are the vanes are worn

5w 40 or 10w 40, been using it for years, I even got the dealer to put 5w40 in instead of the 5w30, as long as its LOW SAPS your good to go. Flashlube Catch Can from word go, Compact ,neat, has the highest cfm flow rate , stay away from the Polished aluminium varieties, they might look good but are not suited to Diesel engines , they have to have a Filter in them not steel wool or a stainless mesh Unsealed 4X4 - Reviewed: Flashlube Catch Can Pro

Yeah my cousin is running a 4y / 5 speed in his Ol Stout tray back, on gas, tows a small van all up and down the east coast, dropped straight in, BUT my Little workmate with its injected 2 Litre-1RZe, still has more KW and Torque, actually between the 3y and 4y theres only a bee,s d*ck in power gain, put up a link for you to browse, Cheers Conrod Toyota Y engine - Wikipedia

Mine didnt have them also mate, I,m pretty sure but dont quote me they became standard fitment along with cruise control in the early to mid part of 2017 when they obtained the slight facelift in regards to the front bar, cheers mate

3 plugs on the side of the transmission, These are detent plugs, inside is a short spring and a ball bearing, easy to check, just undo, be bloody careful not to lose spring or ball, Otherwise buggered syncro ring

A bit more info would be helpful, AND !!!!!!!!!

I don't think its a matter of no one gives a hoot, headers can be found easily on line, and as for the coil it already has an electronic HEI. My little work mate runs the same engine and it runs like a dream, the 1rze engine produces maximum torque at 2800 rpm, I wouldn't go throwing big dollars on it , rather stick a 3rz in it and go from there 1RZ-E[edit] The 1RZ-E is the fuel-injected version of the 1RZ. With a compression ratio of 9.0:1, output is 101–108 hp (75–81 kW; 102–109 PS) at 5,400 rpm with 118–123 lb⋅ft (160–167 N⋅m) of torque at 2,800 rpm. With redline at 5,500 rpm 3RZ-FE[edit] The 3RZ-FE is a 2.7 L (2,693 cc) version. Bore and stroke is 95 mm × 95 mm (3.74 in × 3.74 in). Compression ratio is 9.5:1. Output is 150 hp (112 kW; 152 PS) at 4800 rpm with 177 lb⋅ft (240 N⋅m) of torque at 4000 rpm. This engine features twin, chain-driven balance shafts. It has four valves per cylinder and DOHC. Valve adjustment is by shim over bucket. The 3RZ-FE is an interference engine

Get your phone out and film it, also take note of the outside temp display, that way you can show the service fellas at Toyota

Honestly the 2.8 wouldn't have the power to pull another overdrive ratio, the huge cost would far out weigh the benefits

Oh SH*T got to stop and read abit more carefully, sorry bud, my mistake Thanks HIRO for jumping in and sorting me out

https://www.boostcruising.com/advice/201413-13B-Into-89-Hilux-2WD.html

Sounds like its got a gut full of water in the fuel ?

Pity you are so far away I know I have some of the toothed drives in the shed some where when I was running a Toyota 5 speed behind my 4.1 litre TD Cortina, and needed to get the speedo right back in the day, Sh*t Im showing my age now,

You need to get yourself the correct Hilux instrument cluster, and return the speedo drive to a cable set up and all will be sweet. They did come out with a 2y as I had one, back then the poverty pack so to speak was called a Grinner, but mine had a 4 speed column change, bench seat,now known as the Work Mate. Toyota will be able to tell you of the correct tooth count required

Shocks have nothing to do with ride height, all they do is control the bounce, rather than typing for ages have a read of the Link below mate, it will answer a lot of do,s and don't,s , Im running 16" alloys, lower profile Load Rated tyres keeps everything legal wise and keeps Insurance company on the right side of the fence https://www.boostcruising.com/advice/46114-Lowering-A-Hilux.html

Have you swapped out the headlight relay to see if that fixes the problem ?

Take it to a reputable Diesel Workshop, not a bloody mechanic, a couple hundred dollars could of saved you thousands if it turns out to be a sensor gone

Check the limiters or steering stops for damage, Might be missing the plastic/nylon caps and apply a small amount of grease to the heads for a bit of lube

As is my air cond set up, I too was under the assumption all compressors are direct mount fixed brackets and the belt is held snug via an idler pulley. That bracket looks like my alternator bracket on my little workmate

No problem mate, hope you sort it out, Give it time and hopefully someone will read your post and offer a solution if they've experienced the same as you, sorry I,m unable to help Cheers CONROD

Please don’t take my question as derogatory, seeing how it come from Toyota if anyone would know If there was more power to be had, surely the top mechanic, as you state would, or if attention to the engine is needed, cheers 🤙

Could be a number of reasons, LENGTH, UNIVERSAL SIZE, I will check out the propshaft section in the work shop manual and see what it says

Who informed you of this ? Text book mechanic on Face book or someone with a bit of credibility !

mate this is for a Toyota Tundra probably the same. If you already have new ones, have a squiz and see what clips is there on them