camfan

PMSL!!! Dave... Next time i work on brakes i'm wearing a crash helmet after your experience!!! B)

Thought about giving it a wash... <_< ... nah, aint been a year yet!

Ok.. hope you find the critter... would be bugging me!

I just re-read your first post and agree, tyre pressures are something that is subject to a lot of debate. What is right and wrong is a grey area and it is sometimes clouded in purposeful mistruths as well to fit an alternative agenda. I'm no spring chicken myself being in my 60's but in saying that I have also had experiences with tyres in my motoring years. Things like the old tubed cross ply tyres, the polyglass tyres that were the slipperiest thing on earth, the first "rag" radials and then the introduction of todays steel belted tyres and their never ending problems of belt seperation. Before I go further, in the end tyre pressures are an individuals choice regardless of safety, performance or wear. A bit like a cup of coffee, there are many variants and as to which is the right one is the individual's final choice. Todays steel belted radial had a bumpy start to life, mostly bought on by people using pressures suited to earlier cross ply tyres plus bad tyre design in earlier years of production as well. The problem of belt seperation was found to be caused by excessive heat caused by using the lower pressures of older days suited to cross ply tyres. They found that the rubber and steel heat and contract at a different rate causing seperation of the layers on cooling. They also found that using the lower pressures caused more flexing thus more heat and the eventual tread seperation. The resulting tread seperation gave a bumpy ride as it produced a lump in the tyre. Most thought the wheel had thrown a wheel weight so had it re balanced and still had the bump.. bump.. bump. Those that took the situation to the extreme by not having the tyre examined ended up with a blowout. I have been travelling behind cars twice and seen it happen and luckily in both cases they were rear tyres and no accident resulted. Lower pressures for a smooth ride and risk a blowout.. no thanks, is my personal choice. Car manufacturers place a sticker on the door frame stating recommended pressures and these are more based on comfort rather than the safety or wear. After all if a prospective customer was test driving a new car and it gave a harsh ride they would look elsewhere. Motoring bodies like the RACV, NRMA, etc will only recommend vehicle manufacturers pressures for liability reasons, they will never recommend otherwise even if they personally believe different. Cars have changed dramatically over the years and that must be considered as well, what was good 20 or 30 years ago may not be suitable or even dangerous today. Apart from the much improved handling dynamics the majority of todays cars are front wheel drive which places so much ephasis on the front tyres while placing next to nothing on the rear. Power steering is also another factor as are our much improved roads. This subject can be like the old question.. how long is a piece of string? So many factors to consider but when the dust settles it is your choice no matter what, not only how much pressure you use but how often you check them as well. Having the internet today and it's endless amount of information would be the best source to persue more information on this subject because in a personal forum you will get 30 people and all will have different preferences. BTW.. on our 2006 ACV40R Camry we still have the original factory fitted Dunlop SP300E's and they have travelled 70,000k so far, with more to go. One thing I am surprised with this car is the tyre life? Anyway as to your question... "All HELP AND INPUT APPRECIATED" ...you seem to have received the answer that is beyond question here... >"The 28psi pressure was suggested by the RACV who I find are very adept at providing accurate and meaningful information." Damn... just a thought .. another subject, which tyre brand is best and why?... noooooooo noooooooooo EDIT... Just remembered a whisper heard recently.. tyres over a certain age limit regardless of tread remaining will not pass rego. Aparently they have found that old tyre casings deteriorate over time and are more apt to fail. So fitting the unused spare from grandmas car boot may be a no-no? More here... Rotten spares Tires age and degrade over time even when they are not in use. Spare tires, which look perfectly fine, but are several years old, can fail with just a few days of use. Heat and sunlight slowly harden the rubber and the steel inside of the tire can corrode. When tires are replaced, the spare is often skipped, and when put into use in an emergency may be much older than the other tires on the vehicle. Drivers cannot tell how old their tires are because, in the United States, manufacturing dates on tires are printed in a code which the average consumer does not understand.

Feedback on the mysterious ?? rolling marble or whatever it is/was... SOLVED!! With U54MOT's tip about the opening in the chasis channel under the drivers seat I shoved a scrunched up paper towel in the hole and walla..!! gone...! Don't know what is in there thats making the noise, maybe a run away jaffa??... anyway i'm too old and too lazy to look and the noise has stopped so case solved. I feel the same about the build quality of the 2006+ Camrys too, they seemed to have dropped the ball considerably from the previous models, even going right back to the widebody versions. We have a 2000 model V6 and a 2006 ACV40R as well and the difference is very noticeable to me. The 2000 one seems like it was a thought out process whereas the ACV40R seems like a bucket of hit and miss. The ACV40R is a nice car, don't get me wrong, beautiful on the freeway or trips but that invincible feeling is missing as someone has already said. I also think Toyota was paying too much attention to comments by motor writers about earlier Camrys looking a bit bland and as a result sacificed their mainstay, build quality for more style. A bad move when you have a product that works Toyota. They should learn a lesson from that and ignore anything written by a motor reviewer and listen only to those that buy their product, something that motor manufaturers do not do enough of. (TASH) You would be disgusted with me then... I give my cars a tub about once a year if I remember!! but with both being garaged they still have that new finish on them. I have polished my 2000 Camry once in 10 years!! ... s'pose i'm condemned to the bad boy corner now? :( Will post some pics of them soon. Cheers all :D btw.. love this site! PS..>> TINZ Check the rubber channel around where the window glass fits in the top of the door, especially up inside the groove and see if there is a part there where it has worn through allowing the glass to grind on a screw in there. Alternatively when it is making the noise lower your window and see if it stops. Also check around your door frame for signs of rubbing.

Just read your reply "U54MOT".. thanks for the heads up. I had a feel around in there and found nothing so stuffed some paper towel in there. See what happens. B) BTW.. unlikely it is in the door area as it only moves when turning left or right, never on acceleration or braking. I doubt it is a nut off a window winder as we both of us with this problem have '06 ACV40R's with electric windows. One off the process of elimination list. (TASH.. That is some shine you have on your Sportivo!! Has it had some special treatment or is it just good ol elbow grease?)

36psi front and rear. We have 2 Camrys,... 2000 ser2 V6 and a 2006 ACV40R 4cyl and have found this to be the best for both cars after trying many combinations. They ride smooth btw. That is also the pressure recommended by every tyre fitter i've spoken to as well. I would never run steel belted radials below 30psi... too much flexing resulting in overheating and belt seperation. The 2000 V6 just received new tyres (Falkens) after delivering over 50,000k on a set of Hankooks and still had 10,000k plus safely remaining The new Falken tyres are brilliant.. smooth as silk and the handling is remarkedly improved. The 2006 ACV40R has done 70,000 on the original Dunlops and still have a long way to go. What brand of tyres are you running?? Some elcheapo tyres do give a rough ride among other surprises. A friend just had to replace his no name elcheapo tyres which would not have done 5000k... the wire belting was coming out through the side on 2 of them!! It was not through abuse either... he is over 70 and takes his time. Cheers. :D

Thanks for the welcome VFX :D

Have the same thing in our 2007 ACV40R. Turn a corner and sounds like a marble running across under the car. I wonder if it could be a stone in the chassis?? It only happened after we had a radio replaced at the local dealer... would rather put up with it than take the car back there..., unbelievably incompetent and rude... they fix one thing stuff 2 more... Decided live with it.

I had a 2004 widebody manual 2.2 and it was a freak with fuel for the size of the car. Highway cruising with aircon on <6l/100k easy. What you achieved is not abnormal for that car at all. I have heard different about the auto version though... could be the driving style maybe??

5 months ago i put Falken tyres on my 2000 ser2 V6 Camry and the difference compared to the Bridgestone RE92's and Hankook tyres I had previously is dramatic. It steers truer, feels a lot smoother and runs quieter. Grip is impressive too dry or wet. The overall handling and feel of the car is much more stable and resists tram tracking a lot better. Been driving for over 40 years and these tyres are clearly the best ever. Was thinking of trading the old girl in but with the way it drives now i intend getting a few more years out of it. My tyres would be the same size as your 2005 model I think.. 205/65/15 . I paid $105 each for them through K Mart auto. Cheers.

I'm 60 and from Newcastle and have 2 Camrys... 2000 Ser II MCV36R V6 auto 110000k & 2007 ACV40R 4cyl auto 70000k. Love these Toyotas.