Myxalplyx

BTW Trentmeyer23, have you had a chance to run your turbo camry at the track for 1/4 mile? How does it run? Just curious!

Oh...guys I'm cool on my side. I've already had my ECU tuned twice (N/A) and I have my first beta supercharged tune for my car once it has been supercharged now. It may take a bit to get it right though. A friend of mine had his N/A Toyota Avalon's ECU done and he is happy with his result after seeing mine. And a few other's are following along. I've had good results with just an intake and exhaust on my RAV4. We share the engine (2GR-FE). Just was putting this out there as an option for those that may be interested. Not those that aren't. No barking here. Just passing information along. I've offered my opinions on intakes as well as exhausts on here as well.

Maybe I should've been more specific in my previous post. Was asking if any Aurion owners, that are looking to modifying their car for more power, have looked into possibly working with R9K. I am not asking those with TRD Aurions or those that are already happy with the power as it was delivered or those without funds to do any modifications. Hope that helps!

Has anyone here considered trying R9K Tuned out? I've had some good success with him so far. I actually have an ECU tuned for a supercharger that I am having installed. We will be going back and forth until everything is tweaked but I'm sure it'll be definitely better than stock. Just curious if anyone has considered or are going this route as well. Pretty quiet here.

Hello all, I need your help with some info. Those of you that have the TRD Supercharged Aurions, can you please tell me two things? ... 1) What are your air/fuel ratios above 5000rpm to redline? and 2) What is your ignition advance from 5000rpm to redline? Any help with this information would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for posting the above information TRDnz13. The tuner I'm working with stated it is reflash-able. So...I just need to get my hands on a used TRD ECU. Long story but.....It's more to it then what I'm stating here but I am looking to get some information off of the TRD ECU to implement on my RAV4's ECU. It will be being supercharged. So anyone that has or has access to a used TRD ECU, I am very interested. Thanks in advance. BTW: The tuner that I have been working with is called 'R9K Tuning' from Puerto Rico. I am in the U.S.

Also, can anyone possibly post a picture of their ECU? So it has the part number and other information on the metal plate. I'm working with a tuner who is asking me if I have that information. Thanks in advance.

I purchased an HKS supercharger kit for the 2GR-FE from Monkeywrench Racing. It just arrived today. Here is their website for more details ~~~> https://monkeywrenchracing.com/product/hks-supercharger-kit-2gr-fe-centrifugal-rotrex/

Anyone have a used TRD Aurion ECU they are willing to part with?

No links? I am actually trying to find a 'junkyard' that may have this. Do Australia have junkyards? Been quietly looking for this off and on, on this site.

Sorry if I was a little confusing. Keep the maf sensor diameter 'exactly' the same as the stock maf sensor housing. I am only speaking about opening up the piping leading up to the maf sensor itself, not the maf sensor. Like you stated, you never want to change the diameter of the maf sensor housing unless you have the ability to change/tune the ecu to measure the airflow properly coming through the maf sensor.

BTW: If there any doubt still that you are making horsepower, remember I race my RAV4 at the track a LOT and am constantly testing little things. I still only have an intake, exhaust, lightweight custom pulley and lighter wheels. My best run was before the tracks closed late in November. I ran a 13.66, 13.68 and a 13.75. Every little bit counts. Your intake works!

Congrats on the intake. It looks great! If you have an aftermarket exhaust or at least the muffler has been changed out, you have gained some horsepower/torque. Although I'm across the pond from you (United States) and have a totally different vehicle than you (2010 Toyota RAV4), we have the same engine. I dyno tested a 3" intake that looks exactly the way you have (But it was an SRI at that moment before I converted it over to a CAI) and I made good horsepower and torque. Weapon R Intake Dyno (With S&B air filter) Here is what I I said from that link ~~~> "The WeaponR air filter made 209.87whp@6000rpm vs the S&B air filter's 216.54whp@6000rpm. That is a 6.67whp difference by JUST changing out the WeaponR air filter. Cool! Wanna see something even more cool? Let's take a look a tad lower in the RPM range and compare. Let's say....4800rpm. At 4800rpm, the WeaponR air filter made 178.02whp vs the S&B air filter's 191.40whp. That is a whopping 13.38whp difference. Oh..and I just like to say 'whopping'. Ok...for the torque graph. At 6000rpm, the WeaponR air filter made 183.49lb-ft of torque vs the S&B air filter's 189.55lb-ft of torque. A difference of 6.06lb-ft of torque just by changing the WeaponR air filter to an S&B one. Not bad! At 4800rpm, the WeaponR air filter made 194.75lb-ft of torque vs the S&B air filter's 209.44lb-ft of torque. A difference of 14.65lb-ft of torque. Nice!" It's important to note that these gains took place AFTER I changed the Weapon R air filter out on the dyno. The Weapon R intake vs my stock intake had exactly the same results except the intake was much louder. So if you have a good air filter, you probably have gains similar to what I have. I didn't just test on the dyno but the dragstrip as well. The CAI is good for a good 3-4/10ths off the 1/4 mile. I'm not sure how it will perform with a stock exhaust. I had my exhaust done first, shaved a few 10th's off, then did the intake and shaved off another 3-4/10ths. I just went outside tonight and took a pic for this post. Here is what my intake looks like ---> Pretty much exactly the same as your right? There is one slight difference though that I'm suggesting you go with for a tad bit more horsepower. Expand your intake at each of your coupling by .5". What I mean is....go from 3" to 3.5". Then from 3.5" to 4" to your cold air filter. I tested this setup out on the dragstrip, changing the intake twice. Here is all the details in this thread --> Intake Diameter Observation I apologize the links to all the pics I took are not working at Imageshack. Imageshack sucks! I'm glad you tested to see just how cool your air is. I had some doubters but another fella did the same intake I had (His was all 3" though) and he tested the intake air temp. The intake air temperature was exactly the same temperature as the outside air. I tested afterwards and got the same results. Here is my air filter location at the foglight. It's not pretty but it's all for function If you remove your foglight (or foglight cover) you'll have exactly the same intake air temperature as outside while cruising, despite the hot coolant going through your throttle body. I know I seem like I am rambling but I always have a lot to say. I'm just happy to see your setup. Trust me....It works. I still have all the dyno information on my computer (Stupid links don't show pics anymore from the site). Happy Modding!

Yes! While the car is moving, you will gain some power. Problem is, it will suck in hot engine bay air while the car is idle or sitting at low speeds. It is important to route that tubing down into the bumper/fender area and place the filter there. Then the car will be a cold air intake and you'd gain horsepower/torque throughout the whole rpm range. Or you can ditch the filter that come with it, attach a filter like the PRM filter and run piping/tubing from that down to the fender/bumper area. Same concept! You want to be pulling in cold/ambient air temps only, all the time. You will gain horsepower.

**Update 11/2/15** I updated the first post with NST pulley pics and weight information.

**UPDATE 10/29/15** The pulley is made and will be on its way shortly. I will post up pics, weight information, etc when it arrives. All I can tell you is that the color I have is red (I'm cool with any color to be honest). I'm happy about this is an understatement. I will not be dynoing this car for before and after horsepower/torque numbers. I will be testing this for 1/4 mile information. An improved 60ft time is expected with maybe 1/10th of a second shaved off in my 1/4 mile times or more. Also, hoping to be consistently run a trap speed of 100mph+. Quicker throttle response and a slightly better gas mileage is expected (Less rotational mass). How much less weight it has, I will document of course. This is all for now!

**UPDATE 3/30/15** Update sent to me today --> "Hi Kevin Thank you for the support and the continued patience. Much appreciated! Your custom pulleys are both scheduled to go on the machines in early April. We will update you with more info at that time. We expect your custom pulleys to be apx 70% lighter than OEM. Thanks again! NST Customer Service This is all for now!

I never post up expectations. Especially in this case since I don't know what the final weight will be and even if I did, how much it'd affect my acceleration. I will post up before and after results though and let the experts explain why the results are what they are. I've always done this. I know there will be an improvement but how much is ??. Modifying my cars is just something I enjoy doing immensely. Sharing the results is another. BUT....I'm hoping to shave off 2/10ths in the 1/4 mile and gain 1-2mph. Also, hoping to get my 60ft times cemented in the 1.9 range instead of 2.0's. I know throttle response will be improved. My throttle response is already ridiculous so I'm just piggy backing on that to make it laughable and more fun.

I'm going to have NST (NonStopTuning) design a custom lightweight crankshaft pulley for my 2010 3.5ltr Toyota RAV4 V6 (Sport/AWD). I purchased a stock pulley for them to take measurements. I'm sending the pulley out today and will update as I get more info. I have requested that the lightweight pulley have the stock diameter, NOT underdriven. This is all for now. Here are pics of both sides of the stock crankshaft pulley --> Here is a picture of the stock weight of the crankshaft pulley --> Weight is 1841g (4.06lbs) BTW: I'm familiar with the purpose of harmonic dampeners, crankshaft vibrations and all the concerns around this. I've already researched this. I'm comfortable with this decision. Thanks! **Update 11/2/15** Lightweight NST Pulley has Arrived Front of stock pulley is on left, Front of NST pulley is on the right Back of stock pulley is on left, Back of NST pulley is on right. NST pulley weight is 648g (1.43lbs) Weight savings from using lightweight NST pulley is 1193g (2.63lbs)

GDubb, I recommend only changing out that air filter to a more, non-restrictive unit. Personally, I've always thought WeaponR makes great intakes but their air filters will hinder your car's performance. Oh and btw: PLEASE be careful and check that your air/fuel ratios are in check with that air filter. I did a write-up specifically on this intake on a RAV4 and the before and after results of changing the air filter here---> http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/77848-dyno-results-weaponr-dragon-intake-air-filter-vs-sb-air-filter.html I know it is RAV4 specific. Take it with a grain of salt and do your own testing if needed. This is just something to refer to rather than starting at ground zero. Kudo to be different though and I'm glad you like the intake. BTW: Hello DJKor! Long time no see.

/Subscribe After putting all this info together months back (with DJKOR's assistance), the cost was approaching 10k (USA dollars). *sigh* Still hanging around, hoping for some aftermarket company to supply a kit for the N/A Aurions or other 2GR-FE engine owners. The Evora engine's supercharger and computer does not have low cost either. :-(

Adamsy, I am across the water and have a different vehicle than you but I do have a 2GR-FE engine. I have had my stock throttle body modified (enlarged) by a company called 'Maxbore'. I showed my results in a thread (further down in the thread) here --> http://rav4world.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=25997&highlight=maxbore No issues with the computer or anything else. Have not noticed any seat-of-the-pants improvement. 1/4 mile trap speed went up a teeny-tiny bit. You guys have forced induction so maybe things would be different for your setup.

Thanks for the replies! I did not know what that car culture is/was like over there and if people used nitrous. I drag race a LOT. Been getting back into bracket drag racing over here this year. Since we don't get the supercharger option over here, I have been looking non-stop for other options for that extra boost. I have not had any bad experiences with nitrous....yet. If one of you guys had already did it over there, I'd just follow your foot steps instead of starting from scratch. What I mean is the type of system used, how big of a hp shot used, etc. So I appreciate the replies. Fortunately, since I have posted this thread originally, I ran into another thread at Toyotanation about a guy who turbocharged his 2GR-FE. The cost ain't cheap though. I will be meeting up with him at one of the events I'll be racing at called Hot Import Nights at Englishtown Raceway. I think he's entering a car show but at least I can get a first hand look at the turbo kit itself. I only want to run 5psi to be conservative. He gave me the number to the shop that did his kit and I plan on riding down to them on one of my next days off. All of this to say that the nitrous is on hold for now. DJKOR has probably already read the thread about it. The guy is keeping some stuff underwraps about some details of the kit so I have to respect his wishes. If this is a viable option, I'm going to get the money for it somehow. Again, thanks for the replies. 2GR-FE Turbo You know what seems even more interesting about this is that it could be applied to a supercharged Aurion as well. Twin charger of sorts. Would be nuts! Hehe!

I am wondering about this as well. You are referring to the part where the two headers join inot a single exhaust pipe right? The picture looks like it joins them smoothly. Really nice! Outside of the header, piping sizes, cats and resonators, the only thing that may be worth changing is the mufflers themselves. If you remove the stock one, take a look at how the exhaust flows through it. If it appears that the exhaust flow is not a straight/direct flow, then change it out for a muffler that has a straight through flow. Just make sure the muffler itself is a decent size so that it actually does some muffling rather than making a lot of noise.

I tried searching but could not find any information. Are there any N/A Aurions running nitrous? What kit are you using and how much of a hp shot are you using? I personally do not want to go over a 75hp shot, hence my questions. My goal is to get my vehicle to reach the high 12 second in the 1/4 mile but as conservatively as possible. BTW: I'm ok with using either a wet or dry setup. I just never had nitrous installed on a vehicle with as high a compression as ours. Just want to be careful and instead of 're-inventing the wheel', do what someone else may have already done here. Thanks for any input!