Kombi17

You can check here for some advice: https://www.gpspower.net/toyota-lexus.html I think yours uses an SD card? Older models such as mine used DVD's and it was possible to download newer maps. You need to be careful what software you put in your car, worst case scenario is that the card/disc corrupts your sat nav altogether. Several hundred dollars seems to be the going rate for maps these days. I purchased a 2017 Mazda for my son and Mazda charged $120 for a 1 time upgrade or $300 for 3 years.

Hi Alex I use this in my Grande: https://goroav.com/pages/bolt It wirelessly connects to my phone (Android) and plays via the AUX connection. When I start the car it all syncs up and it's like having a smart speaker in the car. I just say 'Hey Google, play music' and away it goes. You may need to do a bit of research to see it works with iphone or if there are other models out there that will work.

Are you still able to lock it manually? If you are able to lock it manually, it's likely the motor, If you are not able to lock it at all, it could be just the door lock mechanism. My driver's door locking stopped locking as the plastic parts inside broke. The motor would still try to lock and unlock the door but as the parts were broken it didn't work. The door lock and handle part was not expensive from Toyota and I installed it myself but it took a long time to get due to covid. The workaround for this while I waited was I used the door part from the back passenger door as it was the same part. If you are still able to lock and unlock the door manually, then that suggests the locking mechanism is fine and your problem is elsewhere with the motor and that is something I don't know about. I hope this helps.

Hi Fiona, I have the same make and model as your car but have not experienced the same issue as you. These are some things I would try: - Go to Nav settings and check it hasn't changed what state you live in i.e. Victoria and not some other state or even New Zealand. - Take the Nav disc out, turn on and off the entertainment unit (soft reset). Re-insert the disc. Hope you sort it out.

That chip would definitely annoy the ocd in me and that would be all I would see every time I saw it especially if it were that new. I agree with Tony that you could make the chip a whole lot less noticeable at a fraction of the cost and in time you may even forget about it as the car picked up other minor chips and scratches from normal daily use. It sounds like you've already committed to replacing it which does seem a bit expensive for something that small. I remember getting one of my tyre rims re-done after my wife parked badly and scratched it. Soon after repairing it and having 4 shiny scratch-free tyres, I scratched another tyre. My car is much older now and although free from major damage, it does have a few small dings and chips which I accept. I think life's too short and I'm certainly not rich enough to keep a car in showroom condition.

G'day Aero. Apologies for the late post, I was on holidays and not sure if you have made the purchase or not. In my case I bought a 2nd hand 2011 Kluger and it has been very reliable in the 5 years I've owned it. The only time it 'broke down' in all that time was due to a flat battery. I've had the auto boot lifter and front lower control arms replaced but other that that, there were not other repairs that comes to mind. I am a bit concerned that there is no log book or service history with your potential purchase. I had mine serviced every 6 months for the first 4 years at a Toyota dealership and now at a local mechanic. If properly maintained these cars are fairly bullet proof. Mine has done about 180,000 km and is still very quiet and smooth to drive. I have no intention to replacing it as it still meets all my expectations.

Hi Lancey, brakes and rotor was my first guess too. The only other obvious cause is your wheels need a balance and alignment? Ask a mechanic check the rest of the parts linked to the tyre as it's more than likely one of those parts. At my most recent service, my mechanic said the LCA (Lower Control Arm) was wearing out and once worn out, could affect handling. https://www.suspension.com/blog/symptoms-of-a-failing-control-arm/ I hope you find the cause and keep us posted with the cause and fix.

Perhaps a mechanic in this forum can confirm but I think you just diagnosed the problem with your car which is the starter motor will need to be replaced. The established short term fix is to tap it each time but eventually this method will no longer work. It's probably best to get it checked out and fixed now while it's still running. -- Geez, just saw the age of your car. It seems a bit young to have starter motor issues but hopefully you resolve the issue and let us know what it was.

Hi Zed. I've owned a Rav 4 in the past and currently own a Kluger 7 seater. Both were/are very reliable if properly maintained, my 10 years old Kluger has only let me down once in the last 4 years and that was a dead battery. Obviously the Kluger will give you more boot space as it is a larger car and the V6 is fantastic for getaways out of the city. The Kluger does not like city driving! 🙂 I do 50/50 between freeway and city driving and mileage is approx 12L per 100km. If you were doing mostly city start/stop driving, you could expect this figure to creep up to 13 to 14+ litres. The Rav 4's fuel economy is better but not spectacular as it is a 4 cyclinder engine trying to move an suv around. I've never owned a Prado or proper 4wd but it seems like overkill if I were driving in the city 90% of the time.

Sorry I wouldn't know that answer as I originally thought there was only 1 hidden motor doing the lifting and the gas suspension struts are there to support the tailgate only. Your model may have a different auto tailgate set to my older 2011 version. If you do have a dual motor set up and one is failing, depending on who you go to, they may just recommend you replace both at the same time or you'll have a new motor doing more of the lifting than the old motor and you may eventually be back to square 1 when one of the motors starts to fail again.

Hi Blair. There's a few posts on this forum regarding the tailgate and it appears they seem to go wrong after 6 years. If you're lucky, maybe the tailgate is just 'out of sync', I would manually fully open and try to get it auto-close, then manually close and try to get get it to auto-open. Try it a few times till it hopefully syncs up again. Otherwise it may be bad news. Mine failed after 6 years and there's another person with issues with his 2014 kluger. If it's the struts that's causing the issue, they cost $300 to replace, if it's the motor that will cost $3000.

Hi Con, I have a 2011 grande and had tailgate issues a few years back. If you're lucky and it's the struts, they will cost about $300 from Toyota. If it's the motor, it will be $3000. Mine was the motor and fortunately I had extended warranty to replace both just to be sure. Hopefully it's just the struts and if they are generic parts, you may be able to find them cheaper elsewhere, otherwise it's either an expensive fix or live with a manual tailgate.

I think it was around 2k for the motor, a few hundred for struts and the rest on labour. If I didn't have warranty, I wouldn't have bothered. I checked the receipt and it didn't show the cost of just the motor. https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2009_Highlander/Tailgate-Pull-Down-Motor/69353984/8500709005.html shows it as 1500usd which is about 1900aud..

Maybe worth trying some local wreckers and seeing if you could buy a second hand tailgate motor. If you could score a used motor for a few hundred, it's a lot reasonable than a few thousand.

I have a 2011 Kluger Grande and I hear a similar sound if the engine is running, the car is idling and the music is off. It does seem to come from right of the steering wheel and sound like something faintly getting switched on intermittently. I barely notice it unless I'm listening for it. To me, it seems like normal car noises and once I'm driving and/or have the music on, it can't be heard.

Had a quick look online, this is what I could find. https://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/omms-s/T-MMS-12Highlander/pdf/2012_Toyota_Highlander_WMG_lr.pdf Page 62. 85,000 miles for a 6 cylinder. I was hoping to take a photo of my service book for that particular service but the page was already removed when mine was serviced.

Hey Podge, sorry to hear of your bad luck. Toyota can charge some ridiculous prices sometimes too for parts... Not sure what model you have but I have a 2011 kluger grande. There is a factory reset option on my multimedia unit, have you tried pressing that? I would then try disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it again and seeing if that works. Failing all that and if the stereo unit is really broken, I would find a replacement unit at the wreckers as 4-5k is ridiculous. I remember I had to find a replacement boot cover for my kluger and Toyota was going to charge about a grand for it, I found one at the wreckers for 200.

Yep, that's exactly the one I use, I buy the 6 litres one. I am not mechanically minded at all but I can change the oil at least. In between 6 monthly servicing at the dealership, I change the oil myself (but not the filter). This means my Kluger (which uses the same engine as the Aurion) gets it's engine oil changed every 3 months and oil filter changed every 6 months. Needless to say, I've never had oil sludge issues and it may be just my imagination but I do feel the engine is a bit smoother when I change to this oil. Yes, it is overkill to change the oil 4 times a year but I only buy it when it is on special and I think it's a much more cost effective way to look after the engine than some other methods such buying premium unleaded petrol which I don't do anymore.

Hi everyone. I've been using Penrite HPR 5 Engine Oil - 5W-40 6 Litre https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/search?q=Penrite+HPR+5+Engine+Oil+&lang=en_AU for many years now, first in my Aurion and now in my Kluger. It was recommended by the shop staff and to be honest, it does the trick for me. I don't know much about oils but to me, the car seems to idle/drive smoother when I change to this oil. It's a little expensive at full retail but you can often pick it up on special for $45 - $50 and I think it's the most cost effective way of maintaining the Aurion's engine.

It looks like the 2012 model still uses a DVD based sat nav. If so, you can buy the latest version here for $295 https://navshop.com.au/collections/toyota/products/toyota-aurion-2001-to-2011-v24 Or you may be able to find some versions to download and test from here https://www.gpspower.net/toyota-lexus.html If your sat nav is dvd based, it is straightforward to update the maps. Find the option to Eject the DVD sat nav disc and replace it with the newer version. The sat nav disc has it's own slot below the CD changer.

Yep, 100% the same as Howdoi in terms of issue and short term fix. It is a completely mysterious rattle that can not seem to be resolved! I have tried to find it on and off over the years and each time when I thought I resolved it, the rattle would eventually come back. I have even been on the car's foot well while been driven around and I can't seem to pin point the source of the rattle. It seems to emanate from the passenger side, middle row door area. It's possibly from the bottom of the seat but there's is nothing that obvious to the cause. I have tried the following: - Adding insulation to the left door stopper. - Adding insulation/sound dampeners to left seat lever, underneath the rail for sliding seat forward. - Wedging items between left seat and middle to minimise any movement. - Insulating items around and behind the seat such as the cargo cover. None have worked long term. It is just an annoying rattle which I have resigned to putting up with and generally don't notice as it is not too loud and masked by music.

https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=Plastic+Frame+Euro+License+Bracket&_sacat=0&LH_PrefLoc=2 ?

Sorry to hear of your issues. I had similar issues with my 2011 Grande a year or so ago. First the tailgate started to close slowly, then work intermittently and not work at all in the end. It wasn't a battery issue as it was relatively new. Luckily I had insurance as to replace the motor and struts cost 3K at Toyota! If it is not the battery, it may be just the struts which have lost their 'strength' in working with the motor to lift that heavy tailgate. If it's not the struts, then you may need to change it to a manual tailgate as replacing the motor and struts is not cheap.