TRD 269

I did stick chewing gum in the little slot a while back to stop them from spinning arround, then one day i noticed something that looked like chewy down the side of the car so i quickly removed all chewy from the wheels which wasn't easy.

Spring steel, what spring steel?? Mine doesnt have spring steel.

Mine are starting to get a little on the crappy side as well, cracks in the paint from trying to pry them off and damaged tabs that dont hold the cap in position anymore. 3 out of four of mine spin around and gives me the ****s looking at them not in the correct spot. so im with you Djs, i hope they arnt too expensive like the 90k service of around $900-$1000.

Around 35,000km to 45,000km seems to be the norm with the TRD's. Just because they wear down this quick doesn't necessarily translate to aggressive driving. SupaTouring and SecaBoy both had TRD's which had their rotors wear at the typical rate for these cars and I wouldn't say that their cars were treated badly. Remember, a lot of city driving can easily accelerate the wear as well since there is a lot of start stop. So those first 14,000km your TRD went through may not have been as harsh as you may think. In addition to that, I feel the pads on these 'drag' quite a bit more than what I would call normal. Just go driving slowly next to a wall or something and you can hear the pads dragging on the rotors a little. Hi Peeps, I agree with 'DLKOR' on the Kms, I love the way the TRD goes and STOPS hehe. My TRD has just hit 90K, right on Q (first rotor replace 45K) the front Brakes hit the limit tab. If im going to have to replace the rotors again, I have removed the limit tab from the pad and using the whole pad until it starts to squeek metal on rotors again thats for sure. I will let every 1 know how i go with my after market shopping In Perth. I am leaning towards a similar rotor /blank to modify and suit the TRD(as toyota have done with the genuine rotors). Whilst drilling the stud PCD they may as well slot the face too. Slotted and drilled would look sweet on the TRD. On the group buy subject, buying 500 rotors from china the correct size(not modified) should be acheivable, and cheep. I will post my expensive and traumatic brakes replacement experience sometime very soon, maybe 1-2months.

I had the same problems with mine, we fixed the hose and not long later had to replace the valve. since then no problems with the hose or the valve. Warranty job.

I think you are right there "74" similar story with the refineries here in the west. I'm With picking the busy BP and sticking to it, That way you know you are getting fresh food for your child. nothing like trying to start a lawn mower with old fuel it, always empty out or use all of the fuel in the mower and sniper when finished. Ultimate 98 for me and always have. (until batteries can do 250km/h anyway)

I love it also, some TRD mesh would look sweet but don't put a TRD badge on it cos it ain't, take the rest of the badges off of it and keep every 1 guessing. I would leave it matt, it looks great.

As i would have expected, no sludge or **** in the sump other than the broken bits, there where some burnt oil marks in and around the small end and gudgeon pin which you can see on the pics ( i would suspect from the heat of fireing), The removed big end, and the bearings had no burn marks and looked good also, the pots had no carbon build up at all and no carbon build up on the piston tops or valves either, i wouldnt expect any carbon build up as I only ever put BP ultimate 98octaine fuel it it. So all in all for a motor that has done 76000km I thought that it was very clean and should have been good for 500,000km. Way back I had a new 91 Ford Laser (livewire) I only ever put synthetic oil and BP 98 in it and when my EX took ownership of it, it had done 350,000km and never missed a beat, that car i drove at its optimum every day of the week 4000rpm every gear (top of the taco, 3800rpm in the book was optimum). if the ex continued with the 98fuel and good oil im confident that engine would still be going strong. Awesome, that is good to know that I am not buying BP98 for no reason. Cheers! ??you are using 98 or not?

As i would have expected, no sludge or **** in the sump other than the broken bits, there where some burnt oil marks in and around the small end and gudgeon pin which you can see on the pics ( i would suspect from the heat of fireing), The removed big end, and the bearings had no burn marks and looked good also, the pots had no carbon build up at all and no carbon build up on the piston tops or valves either, i wouldnt expect any carbon build up as I only ever put BP ultimate 98octaine fuel it it. So all in all for a motor that has done 76000km I thought that it was very clean and should have been good for 500,000km. Way back I had a new 91 Ford Laser (livewire) I only ever put synthetic oil and BP 98 in it and when my EX took ownership of it, it had done 350,000km and never missed a beat, that car i drove at its optimum every day of the week 4000rpm every gear (top of the taco, 3800rpm in the book was optimum). if the ex continued with the 98fuel and good oil im confident that engine would still be going strong.

Did you ask the dealer to check for "brake shudder and wheel wobble"? Yes I have heard of it happen, but hoping not to have it happen to me. (I saw photos of your engine torn down - ouch!). Where? Would love to have a look. I went in for a look at the new engine in the front sub frame today, still waiting for new fuel injection. while I was there I took a couple of pics before they put the sump back on the blown engine with the broken bits sitting in the bottom of it, the shots arnt the best but you can see the bent / broken rod and piston. I will see if i can get the pictures that Toyota took of the bits, soon.

if you fill the tank to full it wont matter when you fill it up again the sums will be accurate 10.4 -11.2 consistantly around Perth, 8.9 out in the country at 90 to 100km/h. 110-120km/h in the country is 10.2-10.4 i will be watching very closely at the new motor when it is in.