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Posts posted by GC_AUS

  1. Jacky,

    Try these -  maybe some pointers for you





    Not really a fan of these push button style engagement units for the exact reason you have found - that good old fashioned gearstick has good feedback…

    There is another thread on this somewhere -if I can remember where ill post it for you



  2. James,

    You might be onto it with the timing - I'm not familiar with the reluctor ring but could it be out by a small amount or have play in it which might give random codes? - in a VVTi engine this could be why the symptom is not always there?

    Specially seeing as the mechanic also mentioned he thought there may be an issue with….etc


    Certainly not my area of specialty but if were me on another engine I would replace the whole timing gear set up to eliminate any stretch or play in the system - not sure what this would cost on that motor?? It would also confirm this to be in good order & working as it should IE: eliminate that area of concern.


    Parts diag if you haven't got it = https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/toyota/hilux-4runner-truck-42451/ggn25-55718/ggn25r-praskn-916242/camshaft-valve-17807971


    & yes I would most definitely go to consumers Vic & start the process - the dealer must show good will to solve the problem & if not then consumers will get involved. Gather all your data IE: receipts & original advertising etc to show it was sold as a fair deal etc & ordinarily consumers will appoint a mediator or negotiator to talk with both parties & solve the problem.  Like any beef you need to keep working to fix the complaint & so do they but if one party reaches a point of no return then it ends up messy & must be adjudicated by court etc - nobody wants that because the only ones who get rich are solicitors or lawyers.

    If I re-read your post then it appears this really needs to be sorted out between the dealer & the mech in Epping to decide who does the work - the dealer should foot the bill on the basis that they sold the car "in good faith" with a warranty

    IE: either it was or wasn’t represented correctly but that’s between them to prove & you should be given a car as you thought you were buying in the first place & not a lemon…. Definitely worth the call to consumers.



  3. Hey James,

    Not wanting to panic you here but it would be well worth your time to read up on warranty claims in Vic = here


    dealers are notorious for trying to escape at the cheapest way out - not surprising.  You don’t want to end up with a lemon after all the grief so keep your finger on the button…

    have a good read of the "resolve your problem" link at the bottom of that page so you know how to go about sorting out issues etc.  If at all possible get the problem on file through Consumer Vic so then you have them by your side if you need them. Most dealers will do the right thing as long as they know you mean business when they don’t play ball nicely.

    Be careful just how much you do with the car - IE: its their issue & legally they cannot sell you a car when they know it had faults & it must be rectified.

    Get another independent opinion / diagnosis from someone you trust to make sure the work is being done properly.

    Don’t be afraid to go through Consumers if you need them - that’s what they are for & normally they will be a good circuit breaker if you are getting nowhere with the parties involved.



    Good luck mate!



  4. Morning Daniel,

    So this gives you 220Kg left for snacks & the baby…?  Should be enough I think??

    Just check out the GCM = Gross combined mass for your vehicle which will be in the manual or on the compliance plate. It may have a modification plate which has an updated number so look for that too.

    A bit late perhaps but it would have been good to weigh the camper trailer as well then you have all the answers.

    Here's a couple of  good articles for you =



    happy travels!



  5. You're lucky - its evil weather here today so a bit of time to hide from the heat….

    Not sure if I have the exact model on your vehicle but try these links  -

    Looks like the dash part No is no longer available =  here https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/toyota/hilux-4runner-truck-42451/kun26-55710/kun26r-urmsyt-935177/meter-18018442#/il-416755148-10435416-10435416  P/No 83800-F0G21

    Dimmer switch is here - https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/toyota/hilux-4runner-truck-42451/kun26-55710/kun26r-urmsyt-935177/switch-relay-computer-18018454#/il-416755351-6602181-6602181

    item 14 - P/No 84119-0K010

    you would need to establish if there is also a relay or other electronics behind there but often as you say its just left out for different models so maybe all that’s needed is the switch assy?? - maybe….

    Once you have confirmed part no's try these guys -


    delivery is a bit slow because its all shipped ex Japan or UAE but I have used them for odd parts & find them to be good.

    & I guess the obvious question - have you tried a Toyota specific wrecker for a dash panel in white (what model is that…??? - mythical?) you'll need a set of blue LED under body lights to go with that…..

    How bout one of those groovin head up display gizmos

    & one last possible - these guys might make one for you - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Plastic-WHITE-DIALS-Toyota-Hilux-Surf-97-04-gauge-dash-tacho-speedo/153166190357?hash=item23a96a9715:g:sGYAAOSwHPlWgB1U:rk:5:pf:0



  6. Hi Daniel,

    Hmmmmm…..      ok…

    I might suggest you should get a second opinion

    Try these guys who all will happily look at the vehicle & try to sell you their product   - do your homework & have a bit of patience I might add. That vehicle looks pretty well set up already so someone has put in a bit of effort there.





    I have airbags on my troopy & I have to say I am not a fan. They put a point load onto the top of the axle housing & also to the chassis as I mentioned last msg. in practice I only use the airbags to level the vehicle & the leaf springs which are also up rated over standard do the main work. My other vehicles are set up with heavy duty springs / no airbags & I think this is a much better alternative IE: it places the load where the chassis is designed to take it etc.

    We travel remote outback with no support so its got to work & be reliable.  Airbags are also prone to damage or holes from grit / mud / rocks / sticks etc so it is something to consider carefully depending on your area of travel.

    best thing you can do is get a weighbridge certificate so you know exactly what the vehicle is carrying then work through the problem etc. I know I said that but it’s the best starting point for you.

    my opinion is to change the rear leaf spring pack to a heavier set before airbags. You might also be able to add a leaf or two so worthwhile seeing someone who does resetting or custom work like Westralia on the link above.  resetting or adding a leaf or two should be a lot less that $1200-  so its worth a look.

    And of course go through the gear you have onboard & think do i really need that…..

    You might get some good ideas from a guy called Ronny Dahl if you haven't found him = here - https://youtu.be/ta0xWzwbEeg   the guy does some big trips & knows WA pretty well - some good common sense there to be had.

    Have a watch of this one as well  https://youtu.be/uZPdzWsNotY


    I have no idea of your level of experience so if you know these things then gloss over of course.

    You're not the only one who has had this spring problem btw so dont despair - there is an answer!



  7. Lance,-

    Now without being too for-see-tious…..   (Facetious)  - perhaps some multifocal glasses might be in order….?    :lol:


    What about some high intensity LED replacement globes like these = https://www.narva.com.au/categories/lighting/globes_auxiliary/dash_panel/l_e_d_dash_panel - you would just need to check the globe type behind the dash unit to see if they are wedge type globes - most are but best to check.    They are available in different intensities / brightness, / colour temp etc.



    Is the white background dash available as an option on that model?



  8. Not sure if this is the exact model of your Lux but a bit of info for you = https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2015-toyota-hilux-sr5-auto-4x4-double-cab/SPOT-ITM-425983/

    & a nice chart by Beadell tours here - http://www.beadelltours.com.au/payloads.html  - lots of other stuff on that site you might find interesting as well.

    So…. A small camper trailer should be in the vicinity of 1000Kg's ?    assuming you & partner + baby arent more than say 500Kg….        I'm sure you're not!! 😉  then with the GVM at 3300 you should still have plenty of capacity in your setup

    You could look at putting the Lux on a weight loss campaign & remove the rear seat or any other weight not required when traveling.

    Lux's are good things so don’t get freaked out - again common sense & loaded right they can cope with heaps but just don’t smash it on the rough roads & you should do fine. Make sure its legal for other states who do roadside inspections & all good.

    Look - you are thinking of this which is more than a lot of people do so don’t get lost in the detail. Do your checks for sure & remember its not camping if you have the entire house in the back of the Lux - that’s what caravans are for…


  9. no worries -

    Pedders are reputable so i think you should be fine

    most rubbish tips have a weighbridge & just look up "public weighbridge" & you could find one later of you need it

    a good indicator is how much pressure you find you need in the tyres to look ok on the road - depending on the tyres of course...




  10. Hi Daniel,

    Hilux's do break in the middle - usually on that model the chassis at the back of the cabin where the tray starts.

    In my experience its always been obvious for some reason or another:=

    • 1.       Gross overloading

    • 2  Point loading on the chassis


    The overloading is an obvious thing to be careful about & only one answer which is travel light. Sometimes the overloading is behind the rear axle & so the chassis flexes & work hardens if you like to the point where it just cracks from repeated flexing - just like you can do with a fork in your kitchen by bending back n forth etc. sometimes it’s the reverse where the car is loaded in between axles & same result. The first results in a "camel car" - second results in a sagging in the middle "old horse" look.

    Either way this is obvious to the Hilux observer from a distance because the car is bent one way or another.


    The point loading is more complicated. The ones I have seen have sometimes had airbags fitted  & the chassis breaks at the top of the arch over the rear axle where the airbags are mounted & others at the front spring hanger  & the crack appears usually just above the front weld of the hanger bracket. Sometimes with heavier rear springs & so the apparent ability to carry more weight without considering the consequences….


    I have to point out these vehicles have all been after outback use on reasonably rough tracks like the Simpson French line or lots of corrugations with road tyre pressures in the rear of the vehicle.

    Simple rule of thumb = reduce weight, consider tyre pressures & adjust accordingly, change the vehicle if its not suitable for the job required.


    Don’t get me wrong - Hilux's are brilliant vehicles BUT they are a light truck with semi floating axles & components designed for the task intended. If you really need a heavier vehicle then consider a LandCruiser model with full floating axles or another equivalent vehicle. With common sense & a careful approach your vehicle looks fine from the pics but just don’t get tempted into thinking you can take everything & not pay the price.


    Go find a weighbridge & weigh the front & rear axles & then compare to what the rating is in your handbook so you have a starting point to work from.  Also don’t necessarily listen to every "knocker" you find on the road - IE: check it for yourself & then you have peace of mind which will give you confidence in the vehicle as well.     Given you have a 3300KG GVM you have a clear point of reference etc. - you might have done this by now?




  11. Sounds good - the other Lux guys will probably tell you this too but make sure you drop tyres pressures a bit to have a bit of give

    like this =

    different brand / ply tyres behave differently so a bit of experimentation might be in order for your specific set up.

    Patience & no rain - i expect you should have a great trip



  12. Welcome Steve-


    Sorry no specific experience on that unit but looks to me like you want to flip that fitting 180° as you say - so the hose is heading away from the belts - that way the welded plate there is acting as a protector from the belts / pulley.

    Otherwise what is the little plate for…? - locator?


    Not sure if this thread can help at all? - https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/54653-5l-e-vacuum-diagram/


    & this one is probably no use but you might get something out of it = https://www.hilux4x4.co.za/views/viewtopic.php?f=67&t=1124&start=20

  13. I wouldn't waste the money on a lift kit even if you can get one- you don’t need 4wd for that drive as long as it is dry!!!  - if its wet even most 4wd's wont be moving.

    The problem you will have is the limestone rocks embedded in the surface which will smash your tyres, steering & suspension with any speed.


    You can't turn a 2wd into a 4wd just by lifting it - the chassis, suspension & running gear are all designed for the task on a 4x4. If what you really need is a 4x4 then I would consider changing it over.

    Having said that the best thing you could do is get a second set of wheels & put a decent set of tyres on them for the trip - a little taller for clearance but be careful of changing the gearing which will be detrimental.

    Be careful of overloading your Lux - many of that model have been snapped in half with too much weight on rough roads - they are tough but not indestructible.


    It’s a slow track so allow plenty of time & if it rains you will need to be able to wait until its dry enough to move again.  This link will be helpful even if it’s a few years ago - https://www.exploroz.com/Members/92954.8/7/2009/Connie_Sue_Highway_-_south_to_Rawlinna_via_Premier_Downs__and_on_to_Cocklebiddy_.aspx

    Having done all the trip you are looking at I would suggest allow up to 3 days for the southern section of the Connie Sue (Rawlinna - Cocklebiddy). If its been recently graded then it’s a few hours but some friends did that drive a couple of months ago in a Troopy & they took 3 days - IE: not graded lately..


    The road from Rawlinna to Kalgoorlie is cruise control = 80-100k,- well maintained.


    Check road conditions before travel - https://www.laverton.wa.gov.au/services/roads/road-condition-reports.aspx


  14. Hey Bill,

    I don’t think that’s correct about the numbers -  they weren't that rare on the road in the eastern states & only later (81-82) did the LWB overtake it  & subsequently replace it. Yellow was reasonably popular colour with red, then orange, white, blue & the occasional forest green one around. I would think the most popular colour was red followed by the yellow in the 4x4's. that car really started the whole white FRP canopy thing is Aust as people wanted something better than the canvas / steel frame solution - an icon really!.


    Try Wikipedia here = https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Hilux#Third_generation_(N30,_N40;_1978%E2%80%931983)


    & I think if you hunt around you should get a copy of Overlander magazine or 4x4 Australia from about late 79-80 where they had one of the front cover  - I did have the mag but not any longer sorry. Somebody here might help you with that = https://www.facebook.com/Overlander4WD & search on fleabay for 4x4 Aus  - try here as well = https://www.whichcar.com.au/4x4australia


    Here's a bit of info which you might not have found - http://www.productioncars.com/vintage-ads.php/Toyota/Truck


    & surely Toyota Aust must have a media department which you might find somebody helpful…. Maybe…..   https://www.toyota.com.au/contact

    I'd be interested to see what you find so perhaps a follow up post?

    rgds G.

  15. Welcome Brendan,

    Patience dude -

    1. work around the door panel & remove the plastic clips holding it to the door
    2. unscrew armrest & opener - (should be a Phillips screw visible when you lift the opener) & screws under the armrest
    3. GENTLY remove the plastic weather cover now visible over the door - the black goo will separate with patience & you want it there for later so don’t chuck it in the sand.
    4. Now access the regulator to remove the window track (bottom) - clean out the old glass etc.


    New window usually goes in tilted to 45° or more with the front down - then twist the window gently into the track at front & rear.

    Lower it into the bottom track or if it came with the track attached then you might need to remove the regulator to get it to line up in the track


    This is not exactly the same as yours but its pretty good = https://youtu.be/NfVDI9cpMiY

    & you might want this trick to remove the winder handle if you haven't done that = https://youtu.be/MIGVyGDuRdI


    & try the our friend bleepin Jeep guy because he does a good job too =  https://youtu.be/vm27PvCP4ks he also can be quite inventive with alternate ideas which might help


    While you are in there I would also grease mechanicals or silicone spray the rubber track to help make it all noice when you have it back together

    pictures here if you need them = https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/toyota/hilux-4runner-truck-42451/ln172-54837/ln172r-frmdsq3-934749#grp=&s=windo


  16. Ah bummer -

    You win some you lose some..   that’s a bit rich for 10 mins worth of press time!

    Haven't tried it but I'm told on the track you can also use the standard Toyota jack under a heavy point on the car with the right size sockets etc - might be a help for someone else.


  17. Yo Conrod,

    Sometimes a bit of heat is needed - have a hunt on the tube there are plenty of techniques. - this is one eg -

    Definitely should be a zerc fitting in your uni joints though - some are in the end of the cross & some are in the middle depending on the exact version

    rgds G,

  18. Steve,

    You’ve done the right thing certainly with the timing belt & valves.


    Do the obvious things first - IE: sitting around for 10 years = all the crud that was in the tank has gone through the system to the filters or to the pump &  injectors if it got past the filter.

    My guess is the filter will be clogged with gunk out of the tank. Diesel grows mildew over time when sitting so this cloggs filters real quick once its shaken up.


    1.       Drain tank & fresh fuel (you have probably done this by driving it)

    2.       Replace all filters = fuel, air -  assuming you changed the oil & filter already.

    3.       Run a decent quality tank cleaner & injector cleaner through  & then replace the fuel filters again. This might sound excessive but a set of filters is cheap compared to injectors or pump.

                                    The Liqui moly diesel purge is a good product - there are others of course. See here = https://youtu.be/Bgg3Y2vzWes  - add to the filter when changing. - a good set of instructions here - https://liqui-moly.com.au/how-to-clean-your-diesel-fuel-system/  - ( I have no affiliation with liquimoly so use whatever brand you like the look of)


    Once you know the air, fuel & oil is all getting to the engine clean go for a drive & give it a bit! - diesels like to work so being driven soft with no load will create glazed bores & smoke. A good hot work out will usually get a smoky motor running clean again but don’t thrash it until you are sure you can do so safely.


    It’s a simple elimination process = clean fuel, air, oil & if its still bad then start investigating the pump & injectors.

    rgds G.

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