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Lance, 2 cents….. Careful about changing wheels for a few reasons,- Will change gearing & affect economy (worse) - speedo out & higher loads on gearbox = shorter lifespan Legalities in different states - some will pull you over & check the wheel size etc Insurance may be void with incorrect wheels (check size allowance for your vehicle) Potential scrubbing of guards or steering components etc I hear your point that some genuine Toyota bars are a bit "frumpy" - have a look around at other Lux's & see which ones you like the look of - ARB, TJM, Opposite Lock etc all make good quality bars,- just check to make sure it is an air bag suitable bar with appropriate brackets etc. Careful with alloy bars - they don’t really do much to save the car if you nudge one of those big bad grasshoppers. They are good to hang the lights off & they are light but alloy bars bend very quickly straight back onto the bonnet or into the corners in an off centre impact. Remember one grasshopper & you have saved the cost of the bar. rgds G.

you might also contact this guy......?

Andrew, So the obvious things,- · Get an independent wheel alignment check - IE: not from the Toyota dealer but a proper tyre / alignment shop · Check brakes aren't dragging = raise the wheel & check for abnormal resistance · Be gentle on U turns & roundabouts IE: don’t grind off the edge of the tyre accelerating hard into or out of a roundabout or U turn. The second point here can/ will be done at the same time as the alignment check. Pressures you are obviously onto so you know what to do. All 4WD's will scrub the offside tyre if pushed in corners or on dramatically cambered surfaces because they are tall, heavy etc. you know this? FWIW- beware of Toyota dealers up selling the service….. on my cruiser when under new car service the dealers kept telling me there was something wrong because my brake pads weren't wearing properly (fast enough) & one dealer also wanted to do an entire power steering flush & rebuild but could give me no reason for wanting to do this. This was to be an additional $300 on my fixed price service… the same dealer also offered me "special oil" at an additional cost of only…. You guessed it $300. I did flush the steering system independently out of pure paranoia & still have the same brake pads….. as you might guess I went to a different dealer after that. Try asking them to confirm what engine oil they use…. That will be fun for you. In my experience the best dealers seem to be the family owned, multi brand, franchise with apprentice training onsite. These proved to be the only ones who actually took care to make sure the vehicle was serviced as it was meant to be. For sure there are good & bad so you get good & bad at any dealer but shop around & tread carefully. Rgds G.

Hey Josh, optional on that model so some do/ some dont... could be one or two fitted depending how much you spent at the time. if no logo on wheel then pretty safe to assume not but you should find two phillips screws behind the wheel to remove the horn button = behind the spokes. lift off the horn button & you will see etc now to be sure to be sure... just disconnect the battery before you do that - the french chalk they put inside airbags is hard to wash out of your hair... :) also under the dash you should see various yellow wiring looms running about the place - this is the pre-wiring for airbags put in at the factory. when you get them as an option the wiring is already in place. if you follow the ones to the steering column you may see they stop at a suitable point. this might be of use for you to have a look at the diagrams before operating https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/toyota/hilux-4runner-truck-42451/rzn149-57015/rzn149r-prmskq-934861#grp=&s=air not sure i have exact model there but you can go up one level to select the exact etc. dont sniff the chalk...... ;)

cant see why not - But..... your location says NT so that makes me think you might actually expect your bar to work against them big bad jumpin rats rather than just be somewhere to hang your lights off - alloy bars have a nasty habit of folding straight back onto the bonnet if you hit anything so i would do your homework & consider a steel one as well. Talk to others is your area to see what they have found works etc. only other thing is make sure if you have airbags the bar has the relevant bracketry to suit the airbags. They have either crumple zones built in or brackets designed to work with the airbags that fit between the bar & chassis Rgds G.

try these for more info = https://www.toyota.com.au/main/landcruiser-200 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Land_Cruiser#J200_(2007–present) https://www.toyota.com.au/main/LandCruiser-200/Prices https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/results?sort=Published&s=0&l=15&evnt=refinement&q=((Make%3D[toyota]%26Model%3D[landcruiser])%26YearRange%3Drange[2007..]) https://www.toyota.com.au/suvs-4wds interestingly the 200 is the top of the line Toyota SUV as opposed to a true 4X4 - IE: it has semi floating rear axle & a lot of SUV specs & is in the 4Runner / Surf / Prado LandCrusier line-up from Toyota Japan whereas the 70 series follows on from the original 15/25/35/40 etc. there are good & bad points to this depending what you are looking for. rgds G.

Hmmmm yes gearboxes….. Wise words there- some have the R151F gearbox which is also referred to as the R151Fail box… My KZN165R has that box & I've never had troubles but just do a little looking & you'll find no end of dramas with that - most often because of too much power after turbo or over geared with big wheels or towing in 5th gear. 5Th gear on that box is really just for cruising with no load so DO NOT TOW in 5th is the rule. you might also be interested in these = https://newhilux.net/phpbb/viewforum.php?f=51 - pre 05 models http://www.hilux4x4.co.za/views/ http://brian894x4.com/Hiluxdifferences.html http://www.tacomaforum.com/ https://www.tacomaworld.com/

Try this dude = not specifically 2WD but mostly still applicable. They are not "unbreakable" but they are close.... & certainly as far as parts & maintenance goes they are pretty a simple machine with good life expectancy as long as you maintain them. Just search by the specific model you like & you will find tons of data Rgds G.

check this at the store where you buy but i have used Duplicolour DSHD04 on cruiser std rims & its a match to new colour. Not sure if Lux rims could be a little different but they should be close-

Hey Bonjos, you might find these of use- https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/results?q=(And.Service.Redbook._.RecordType.Car._.CountryCode.AU._.(C.Make.Toyota._.(C.Model.Hilux._.(Or.Series.VZN172R._.Series.VZN167R.))))&evnt=refinement find your exact model & look up tyres etc https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/toyota/hilux-4runner-truck-42451/vzn167-57031/vzn167r-prmseq-934888 scroll down to wheels https://tire-calc.com/# or this one is better perhaps- https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/ https://tiresize.com/comparison/ put in your standard Vs desired outcome. As far as the advice you were given... 1. check what you want compared to what you can have legally - (read your PDS to make sure your vehicle will still be covered by insurance after the change) - particularly in NSW. 2. partially see above - I have Hancock but i normally refer to them as Hankook's on my Lux & i think they are pretty good for the money. A bit noisy but otherwise have been faultless for 40K - i rotate them every 5K so they are wearing well. = Hankook Dynapro MT 30 x 9.5R15LT = 29.8"Ø (757mmØ) They are a bit wide for my liking so the vehicle has a very light footprint & can skid around rather than biting in offroad. Sometimes this is a good thing.... 3. this guy might take you for a ride.... since maybe 1970? all tyres have been pretty much tubeless tyres often until split rims went out of fashion fitted with tubes on split rims. I am not convinced you could even buy a "tube tyre" anymore so if you are keeping the splits then they will be tubless tyres with tubes because you cant fit a split rim without a tube - simple. As far as split rims there is a lot of hype about them & you'll get told all sorts of terrifying stories but the real split rims dont exist any more as they are all called "safety rims" IE: they do have some safety features to try to stop them killing everybody within 1000k's... have read of this over a coffee or a beer & then make your own choice = http://www.beadelltours.com.au/rim_debate.html for most tubless tyres on full rims are the go but split rims are still widely used in the bush by farmers & offroad vehicles. enjoy the new purchase!

Short answer... not really - some are / some aren't. PCD = 6x139.7 Cruiser is 7.50 x 16 - 6 stud 5.5" width Hilux is early 7.00 x 16 - 6 stud 5.0" width or later 6Jx16 ET35 with R205 R16 tyres.... the problem you might find is offset & brake clearance. You show an 80 series cruiser which oddly have different offset to other cruisers pending exactly which version you have- again caliper clearance is the issue. best is to check the actual rims you intend to use. & maybe try this = https://www.wheel-size.com/size/toyota/ rgds G.

Hi Johan, this being not specifically Toyota based - you might also have a look at these sites which will help,- http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum/ https://4x4earth.com/forum/index.php https://forum.ih8mud.com/ http://www.lokka.com/ Not sure where in Scandinavia exactly but there are a few pretty hard core guys / girls in Norway doing that type of stuff & I would think a bit of searching Sweden too. More in country areas rather than city from what I have seen there. all the best

Think you nailed it pretty well there Trent :) Personally i favour Optima Yellow top which are not cheap but certainly good. Yellow will allow you to deep cycle as well as start on one battery - sounds like thats what you are looking to achieve. Rgds G. https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/yellowtop-deep-cycle-battery

looks like thats going to be a HT3 these days = https://www.coopertires.com.au/our-range/4x4-tyres/ht3/ = 225/75 R16 XL

I would definitely give a thumbs up to Cooper Discovery H/T - 235/85 R16LT - have had 3 sets on a Rodeo & got around 95000K each time - never a flat & they are a M+S so actually surprisingly good offroad in slippery claypan mud, sand & snow. My experience go for the LT versions in Coopers. Just check the gearing with that size as its a little tall for your vehicle.

"It ticks for about 1-2mins might be a lil more then goes normal for the rest of the day. " this suggests the lubrication is not up to the top of the engine yet. Your location says "Non Aust" - is it possible the oil you have is too thick on cold start up? - IE: if you are in EU then winter so you might need to go to a slightly lighter oil for this engine - recommended by mr Toyota is in the image attached below for you. A lot of workshops will just put in what oil they have so come back to what you know - does the engine definitely have the correct grade of oil etc. FWIW - i use the genuine Toyota injector cleaner in my V8 cruiser & swear by it. The one in the Aluminium bottle - must be good......Makes the engine quieter & helps with economy - it does have a lubrication additive in it so also helps with longevity of the injectors etc. I have a 1KZTE which also will give slight valve noise in winter on cold start - goes away as soon as revs are off idle or within about 10-15 secs. This is normal as the engine needs to pump the oil up to the valves. Injectors should be around $100AUD each roughly but before you go that path might be worth your time to put an oil system flush through & fresh oil as per the recommended grade for you weather conditions & see if it goes away. For ref i use a 5w-40 oil in my engine & it is definitely easier on cold start & more economical on fuel - not a lot but noticeable over time. Also - dont panic about this - its pretty normal for most cold engines to take a moment for the oil to get up to the top of the head. Could be injectors but if there is no telltale smoke or other symptoms then start simple & cross off all the things you can do yourself like oil, clean fuel, clean air filter etc.

Ticking or knocking? - ticking would suggest valves or injectors but knocking is usually associated with big end or bearing noise. This model does need the valves adjusting so the logical thing is to start there & then put some good quality injector cleaner through & make sure you have the right grade of oil etc. Also check exhaust / turbo outlet for leaks if you have been offroad etc. Sometimes things just work loose. I would assume you have checked all these?

Roger Roger... I sorted that out a while ago now but for anybody else considering this issue - Some people blow the bearings out of the cage with an oxy.... then slice off the inner race with a grinder Some just attack it with the grinder... & then beat the crap out of it all... I went the easier approach & did everything i could but had the old bearing pressed off & then new on. I've heard Toyota have charged people up to $500 for this..... In the past I have been charged $200 for the same service elsewhere. If you are in Melbourne then i would happily recommend Tyresplus Newport - they did a nice neat quick job & only charged $80 for the press off & on. I supplied bearings & did everything else.

Ta dude,- Yup - seems to be the most common after market approach.... did the same job on a Rodeo which have the same setup - all the "lightweight" utes do i think (semi floating axles) in the end it was a case of remove - take to the "lord of the special tool" & replace afterwards. The tool is $200 & if i was planning on replacing the bearings often.... hopefully not! - then i guess its worth buying one.

This must have been covered but i couldn't see it in the posts? anybody have an easy way to remove the rear axle bearings? - i dont have a press or the magic tool at hand just here. 600k on a dying bearing.... its gonna be ugly

no problem - yep have to agree about the soot,- I took mine out after 10000K to have a look & it was all pretty sticky ugly stuff in there. I guess it you could keep the vehicle running nice & hot non-stop then it would be burnt out but certainly the common thought it seems globally is that if you don't have to have the plate then blank it off. it could prove an issue in future if they start to perform exhaust checks at yearly rego inspections. this would be a problem of course in NSW but most states are more relaxed so will take time to become a 'thing'. catch can - the Provent 200 one looks like a pretty neat solution - I will look at this closer as time goes by. my cruiser has both scan gauge & e gauge so its easy to see any changes as soon as you make them - I think again with the blank plate I would suggest the vehicle runs ever so slightly cooler than before. I have a 3.0Lux as well with a EGT gauge - this is handy for keeping an eye on running temps obviously. the Lux loves to have a nice work out with a load at around 550C & always afterwards its cleaner, smoother & happier overall/ typical diesel - I will eventually fit one to the cruiser as well & another thing to look at on your travels. all the best G.

definitely no warning lights with a blank plate having a 10mm hole in the centre. minimal if any noticeable increase in performance although I would say that it 'might" have been noticeable at first,- after the first 20K's you wont have any idea its in there. The exhaust is definitely more stinky in cold conditions hence the reason for the EGR in the first place. I would say that there is a minor.... 0.1 / 0.2 L/100 improvement in economy but this again is pretty hard to quantify. It's simple to fit - the EGR intake tube seems cleaner after 20000K but longer term I would refer to other feedback. Does it do any damage? - so far I would say not after 30000K. I had my injectors checked at last service & all were perfect, clean & within Toyota spec so I think its a good thing but time will tell for the long term cleanliness of the engine.

Yo James, from the 2nd pic it appears to the AC condensation outlet - have you been driving with the AC on prior to noticing the drip? Is the fluid clear as it looks in the pic? somebody else might confirm that? Timing belt - yep definitely something you want to be sure of - if you have any question then its worth changing at next service. much worse if they fail out on the track... I also see ryco fuel filter - not a real fan of Ryco - again next time its changed you want to go for a decent quality filter. The big thing with diesels is CLEAN! fuel clean air. You can get them pretty well anywhere but if you are lost then try Sydney Filters - they are good = Sydneyfilters.com.au also FYI - penriteoil.com.au - check out the product selector for your vehicle. Of course you don't have to use Penrite but it will give you a good starting point to know what should go in the vehicle. rgds G.

no worries man - have a look on "the tube" - search "Landcruiser wheel bearing service" & have a watch of the Powermodz guy's stuff. he does some good things there & even if you don't do the work yourself at least you can understand whats involved so when you go to see the mech you can converse with some knowledge fundamentally its a fairly simple vehicle & not too many electronic controls etc so you can save some bucks & do all the basic servicing yourself & if you are more mechanically inclined then the whole vehicle is pretty straightforward with no big surprises. theres plenty of people to ask so don't get ripped off - just ask its all been done before with cruisers catchya G.

Matias - listen to Manxman.....! I have both a VDJ76 & the 3.0TD lux & I'm not wanting to offend any Hilux owners but the two vehicles are chalk & cheese. if you are making a statement then do whatever you want to the Lux but you are going to kill it. once you have enough power to do that towing you will just start trashing drivetrain - G'box, diffs & axles. the Lux is a lightweight vehicle the cruiser is designed for the job.