dsp26

I have the x-tremes.. best thing before HIDs.. i can't believe the range and visibility ont hese... however the below shots are OSRAM Nightbreaker +90% (LEFT) vs Philips X-Treme +80% (RIGHT) if anyones interested... http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2139371&page=1 Bulb Low Beam High Beam

If you are getting new or new-ish.. look into a Novated Lease even if you can afford it outright... everything gets taken out pre-tax.. insurance, rego, maintenance, petrol...

the above physics is also the reason i prefer FWD over RWD... FWD from factory is designed to understeer for n00bs but with FWD, you have the option of creating more/less under/oversteer through minor suspension tweaks... I like FWD becasue of the option of control it gives me as a driver depending on situation. I do not have an Aurion YET, but with all it's traction/safety features drivability will be very manageable. RWD on the other will always oversteer and is ahrd to get it to understeer unless you have a severely crap selection of tyres... 'drifiting' and letting the wheels skid/bounce on a surface is the rwd method of managing over/understeer.. example on FWD, if you oversteer, you step on brake to reduce it... on RWD, you step on your brakes during oversteer and your dead... you have to let it 'drift'.. this is why n00bs ALWAYS hit poles... on a side note of hitting poles, for those who know of Anthony Robbins, what he said in one of his seminars was correct and is what they also teach you in motorsport... if your about to hit something you will always hit it... if you know your about to hit a certain object.. LOOK to where you need to be. It explains why RWD drivers ALWAYS oversteer the rear side of their cars into a pole

hey mate, you are correct that it is all detrimental. CAMBER Is used to correct tyre wear... when a car is lowered the wheels shift vertically off the control arm/hub.. as in the top of the wheel goes further in the arch and the bottom of the wheel goes outwards hence why severely lowered rice cars get massive inside tyre wear. This causes reduced tyre footprint against the road. A bit of negative camber is OK your wheels generally goes positive on turn ins... this is where CASTOR comes in... CASTOR is a way of DYNAMICALLY shifting camber. Adding some sort of CASTOR devices changes your camber to certain degrees dependent on wheel turn in. An example of this in motorsport is the following scenario. - You don't want too much camber to prolong tyre life on cruising so you adjust for -1.5 static camber at the front. - on incline/decline turn in, optimally you may want to have you car doing -2.5 or -3 as during turn the tyres maybe flatter on te road surface during said incline/decline - CASTOR is a compromise in that its like a mathematical exponent... static camber stays as -1.5 when cruising straight, but the moment you turn in camber shifts to -2.5 TOE you may have all heard of the term TOE IN or TOE out. it is simply that... think of you feet... when your toes are in, it points your feet inwards, and opposite when out. when your car is generally turning to the left automatically it maybe because the left front wheel suffered toe out misalignment as a result of very spririted driving. CAMBER/CASTOR will NOT cause your car to turn into a direction, it is simply a function of TOE. But you guys are right, most vehicles even performance/sports ones do not come with camber/castor adjustability from factory hence the aftermarket parts available. TOE is adjustable on any car and is the only thing correctable when you take your car for wheel alignment. it is adjusted through a shaft that connects the hub to the steering rack. Most people who pay the ~$70 to get an alignment are wasting money.. someone coming in asking for "an alignment" doesn;t sound very knowledgable and very easy to scam money from. WHEN you do go for an alignment, be specific as to what you require and ALWAYS ask for a before/after printout of their laser calibration. Be specific when you ask for an alignment... I want this much toe and this much camber, etc.... Hope that helps...

yep a proper test is a flat road like a highway/motorway with tyre pressures all round. camber won't fix this issue.. it's TOE that need adjusting. but AFAIK no car comes factory set at 0/0.. whenever i get my cars aligned at tyre sussy shops i always ask for 0/0 Toe and -1.5 camber front and -1 rear. ALWAYS ask for a before and after printout of alignment...

i vaguely remember reading around here that speakers are 6x9 all-round. does anyone know the maximum safe mounting depth? Thanks

please tell me your in sydney?

^^^ 2JZGE 220hp 210lb tq 2JJZGTE 320hp 315lb tq Tiburon is a dog for a 2.7l even a MIVEC FTO can beat one. Integra vti-r auto is another option Mazda3???

^^^i was thinking the same thing.... avoid SSAC if you love your car. so is it a 184 or 185??