Tard

Funny how they say ex-Japan when the components were made by Quest Industries in New Zealand (http://www.questindustries.co.nz/Technology.aspx). Had a friend that had a minor bingle in his TRD. Insurance company took care of it but in response to his cracked grill, they said the same story except a 2 week wait. 3 months later and they still didn't have a replacement grill.

For the purposes of this discussion, no it won't have any noticeable negative effect or gain for that matter.

Well in the case of the VVT-i controller (if this is the same issue you have) it is indeed caused by a lack of oil pressure in the overhead gear. Nothing wrong as it does require oil pressure to function and this is not present when the engine is off. In the words of Toyota with regards to the VVT-i mechanism: From reports I have heard, it is this lock pin that that doesn't engage. Now whether this is because the "advanced angle assist spring" isn't doing it's job or the lock pin, I'm not sure. But at the end of the day, the controller can only advance or retard within set limits so the only wear that would be present is the contact between the grey and yellow parts shown in the attached diagram. For the brief amount of contact, I would imagine there would be no harm. And here is what is actually looks like:

In my personal opinion, the rattle from the lack of oil pressure in the VVT-i mechanism and the lock pin failing would not cause any long term issues. The construction of the mechanism itself is pretty robust and you would most likely get other non-related engine issues before that would fail.

Pictures aren't loading mate, but I get what your are trying to acheive. I was going to do a similar thing with just two dual stage switches but eventually opted for the messier method shown a while back by overriding the speed sensors. If you could fix the links for the diagram you have, I could give it a once over for you. Only thing I'm not sure about would be how much time between on and off the ECU requires to process that you are performing that procedure.

If you turn to the pages before the service pages, you will find a table that shows what needs to be inspected and replaced at certain intervals.

On a side note..... how tough? This tough:

Just remember that the fan when removed from underneath typically takes the centre section out which is the motor assembly with the fan blades. If something in there has died, it is not going to stay contained when you pull out the fan.

Need to see some photos. If you can get a photo through the wheel showing where the wheel meets the rotor, that would be a good start. It's just a little hard to imagine there being play in the rotor while the wheel is secure.

If you have the Presara or ZR6 2012+, you don't have to swap anything because you already would have the D4S setup. But for all purposes of this question, correct. You would need an aftermarket H11 HID kit for your halogen projectors.

The manual is a "one size fits all". It simply means that if you have halogen bulbs, you need type "B" which is the H11, or if you have discharge bulbs, you require type "A" which is the D4S. You can't simply swap the two around.

The new Lexus' look so damn nice, especially the front end. Can't go too wrong with one of them. But even the older IS-F still looks sharp. I think this guy would approve:

You are aware that the diffuser doesn't just bolt onto a non-TRD bumper? The TRD bumper is made specifically to fit the diffuser etc.

Well they understood incorrectly. About the only thing in the brakes they would have "upgraded" are heavy duty brake pads.

The TRD Aurion VVT-i oil pipe routes differently to the N/A 2GR-FE VVT-i oil pipe. The revised metal pipe for the N/A Aurion will NOT clear the supercharger drive belt. The solution for the TRD Aurion is the same as the original solution for the N/A 2GR-FE which was to replace the hose and clamps only. The all-metal pipe was not as a fix for the existing engines, but as a new part to be used on future produced engines. As such, this new all-metal pipe was designed for the N/A 2GR-FE. I would not be surprised at all if the Evora S simply uses the same metal/rubber combination.