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Everything posted by Suprathai

  1. Updated list, most of the sought after items are gone...the more serious parts are still there, if you are interested don't be shy and send me a message :)
  2. Bump, a few more things sold....price drop on brake calipers (no one after a brake upgrade on their non sportivo corolla?) and springs.
  3. Bump, Exhaust parts are mostly gone. Come on and don't be shy peeps!
  4. Bump, some price revisions. Koni FSDs not for sale, selling springs though.
  5. Below are items for sale, Stock sportivo headers $100 440cc bosch injectors, need bosch adaptors wire to stock loom $100 1 x Celica front brake calipers (same as sportivo calipers which allows 275mm front disc on your non sportivo corolla for better braking performance) $100 Apexi Power FC + Commander: My tune was carried out by Unigroup engineering (Girraween) with the 2.5inch catback exhaust and CES CAI (lift at 5400rpm and limiter at 8400rpm, made 116kw at the wheels) $700 (Firm price) MWR high RPM cam springs and retainers (NEW) $200 Send me a PM if you're interested in something. Let the sale begin? Cheers, Thai
  6. Need help with PFC uninstall, I think your PM box is full. Can you help

  7. As stated in the title, I'm looking for a picture of such an installation. I've seen it somewhere, but my search has yielded nothing. Cheers
  8. Never seen welding that bad in my first attempt was better then that....
  9. How much you want to spend?? lol When I was looking for a sub (a few years back) I was looking at Boston Acoustics G5 series, Digital Designs (not sure which model) and Image Dynamics (IDMax or IDQ range). One good quality 12" sub would do the job. Don't forget about your enclosure as well. With regards to Amplifiers, just buy one that is rated to operate your sub with a bit of overhead (15-20%) mono and has some reliability (Audison, Alpine, Jaycar??), I've got a Jaycar amp and it works fine for its purpose....have yet to meet a person that can tell a sound quality difference between two similar rated amps that are setup properly.
  10. Think about how you want to go about modifying this car and what you want to everyone else has said, if you intend to modify the car extensively and in a short time then do the tuning at the end...I'm still collecting parts at the moment
  11. It definitely can be done (see my signature), at this point a complete aftermarket ECU will be required (not cheap, probably not worth it to most people). There is guy over at the states working on a solid state lift controller with some success I last remember, but altering the setpoint is one thing, you'll still something to tune the maps for that adjustment. I gained approximately 12kw at the wheels at 6000rpm (only 5kw peak though)
  12. Unfortunately a small amount of dimming is acceptable due to the nature of the electrical systems in the car I believe. If you have some spare cable lying around (borrow of someone?), try running a New earthing cable from alternator to chasis New earthing cable from engine to chasis New positive wire from alternator to battery, I think last time I checked it was a decent size (4ga?) so I didn't do that. Also I ran a 2ga cable from the battery to a distribution block in the boot and then 4ga to the amps. Want to avoid voltage drop across the wires by decreasing the resistance (i.e. larger cable) What type of class is your amp? A/B? D? These will then affect your efficiency, if its not D then I recommend something larger then the current 4ga you have connected to it. Trying look for into on, thats where I've learnt most of my car audio knowledge (also wiring up my 2003 corolla). Thai
  13. Short story...Whiteline sway bar broke off at the welds connecting the right hand side of the car...probably only held up for 1 year at most I think...but that was 1 year ago.... Long story... Had squeaky rear suspension for a while now, about 1 year. The first thing I did was tighten up the sway bar bolts, nothing changed. I changed to solid rear axle bushings...nothing changed. Thinking that it was the springs that I put in last year. Changed to Eibach a week ago, less squeaking but still there. Finally bought a torque wrench to torque everything up correctly, so I may as well remove the sway bar/struts see if there is any rubbing etc....took the sway bar bolts off and trying to pull it off....hmm....missing one So the question now is... Weld or new one? Any bars that are thicker then the whitelines? Thai
  14. Toyota is doing a good job making profits but in terms of the corolla, the competitors are providing better cars in that segment (flame suit on!). Especially with the engine....they are always 0.2L or more a competitor in that segment that still uses a 1.8L in their range??? (Kia, Hyundai, Mazda, Ford, Mistubishi are all larger engines, actually they may be larger cars as well, fiesta XR4 is a 2.0L).... At the end of the day, who is to say which car you like??
  15. For my car, without the CAI I do 9.5L/100km....with the CAI it does 8L/100km
  16. Different in the sense that the zze123 box has a valve at the back that opens during lift I think to allow extra air flow. I'm just after the stock zze122 box...
  17. Chasing after a zze122 air box top and bottom half only. Do not need the rest of the plumbing. Hit me a PM if you have one and we will work from there. Cheers
  18. Would there be issues regarding engineering for a 2.4 replacing a 1.8 not mentioning the fact that you add forced induction??
  19. Just trying to make fun of I hope everyone love their CAI, made one of the biggest differences for me...
  20. You need a retune ASAP, if your drivability got worst then you definitely need a new CHAS54 nearby?? I found that my drivability got better down low and I don't have ported headers installed....