(mr2)

There are only a certain amount of slots in the computers memory which is divided into Master keys and Valet keys, it should be 4 master keys and 2 valet. Depending on what transponder system your key is using, a lot of these can be cloned so the car can not differentiate between the original and cloned key, which means that you can have as many as you like. This is not something that Toyota can do. All the Toyota keys can be cloned excluding the Prox keys and transponder ones with a "H" stamped on the metal blade. If you have an existing master key you can program and delete the keys yourself, so no trip to the dealer. Unless it's changed in the 2013 model.

Sorry, but if the budget wasn't a problem you wouldn't be looking at Ebay turbos. If you seriously want to spend some coin on your 4wd do into a 4wd workshop that offers upgrades such as intercooler setups, exhausts and chips and see what they have to offer. This way you are dealing with someone who (Should) know what they are doing and can offer you local service.

Whats your budget and what are you expecting out of it? Do you do a lot of four wheel driving, need it for towing?

so if i was to get a body control module form anotehr exact same numbers etc that has remote with it would that work ? No, as it is coded to the ECU.

That should be the correct procedure, try with different timing going a bit slower. When you insert the key in the ignition with the door open does the car chime at you? ( Not sure if your model is supposed to), If it does have key insertion switch and it is either disconnected or not working correctly then that will stop the programming from working. When you put the key in the ignition do it with slight downward pressure on the key, as the steering lock mech wears out on these it doesn't lift high enough to press the insertion switch, pushing on the key is generally enough to get it into place.

This is what I think. Even though it's kind of an annoying thing to do it is better time management on your side :)

Big thing for me is having a good alarm properly installed, not just stuffed up under the steering wheel without cutting off the excess wiring. If I was installing an alarm on my car I would be tucking it so far up the dash that it will be more than a 2 minute job to get to the box. If someone knows what alarm you have in your car and they can easily get to it then they can easily swap it out for one that they have a remote for or have bypassed. Then there are the obvious things of parking in secure and if possible lit areas. When at home don't leave your car keys somewhere easy to get to. Home invasions are on the increase as the easiest way to take a car is with the keys, don't make it easy for them by having your keys in plain sight on your hallway table.

That is bad luck that 3 have died all at the same time, I have only ever had 1 go at a time. The last time I bought an actuator for your model car it was $300, they are very easy to change so if you have basic tools then don't get someone else to do them. To save a couple of dollars you could try a wreckers but if the know that these are a common fault then they will probably charge you a fair bit for them. I never worried about pulling the ones I replaced apart but I suspect that it would be the motors inside the mech that has failed. If you are handy with electronics and it is the motors then you would be able to get away with fixing them all for under $100.

The CIR is coded to the ECU when remotes are first coded to the car, this prevents you from being able to get a CIR with remote from another car. They can be reset back to new but this is not straight forward to do and requires programming equipment. CIR stands for Computer Integrated Relay. I can post a picture of one tomorrow as I have one in my shed.

You don't have to replace the CIR as they can be reset back to virgin state and then you can program in TWO new remtoes, you can not do one. They also have to be new and not already coded to another car.

Yes you can. With the new key you should get the key blade cut to code and not copied off your worn key. The shells break because the key becomes worn and you use more force to turn it, therefore breaking the plastic. If you get all that wear copied on to your "new" key then it wont last long.

Your first link is for a central locking remote for the Aurion with a keyed ignition, so that is no good for your car. The second link looks correct but there is no part number listed. Be cautious of the Ebay keys as sometimes they are used keys in new shells which can't be reused or they, poor quality Chinese keys or even ones not for our market and use a different frequency.. The key does have to be programmed diagnostically so it will be a trip to a dealer or a Locksmith, but don't expect any guarantee that it will work. I also think it would be a good idea to find someone that will try code it for you before you buy it as a lot of companies wont program Ebay keys.

There are already alarms with GPS tracking, there are also GPS/ GSM jammers that overcome this. Cameras are always a winner. If you can install one (Or more) facing your car while parked at home. Obviously this doesn't help when you are not home or you live somewhere where it's not possible. Car alarms are not a 100% guarantee but if your car alarm is screaming and they can't quickly disable it then they will move on to an easier car. It's not about making your car or house impossible to get in to you just have to make it harder than everyone around you.

My advice is get an aftermarket alarm fitted to your car and get it fitted so it cuts communication to the immo through the OBD. And make sure that who ever fits the alarm doesn't install it in the same obvious place as 90% of installers, just under the steering wheel with half a meter of cable on it is useless... hide it and cut out the cables you splice the alarm into otherwise it's a waste of an alarm. If it's installed properly then they only way they are quickly taking your car is on the back of a truck.

Yes, the in out and peddle method are much better for the reason that you mentioned.

No can do with this method, Trent. As you need to turn the key for programming it has to be cut.

As long as the aftermarket key has the correct transponder chip in it and you have the black master key then it will work. Sit in the car, all doors closed and no key in the ignition 1. Insert master key in the ignition 2. turn from LOCK to ON 5 times and finish in the LOCK position 3. OPEN and CLOSE the drivers door 6 times 4. Remove the master key 5. Insert the new key and switch ON - The immobiliser light should start flashing 6. After 60 seconds the light will stop flashing 7. Repeat from step 6 for additional keys. 8. Open and close the drivers door when finished to exit programming.

I don't think that you can really lubricate the cable so you might be better off getting it replaced if that is what it is. Have you removed the cluster to eliminate that?

Check out the seat rails, it might be one of the covers that clip over them to tidy them up.

If you want to get some type of recognition then it might be worth contacting Skills Tech TAFE in QLD, they should be able to point you in the right direction. Yes, K2 is rubbish. But that is what happens when you take a tool made for the US market and try and sell it here. The tool that you would be doing it with ( There is only one other option) is a much better choice. Programming.. Door open key in ignition and out x2 close and open door x2 key in ignition and remove close door and insert key On/ off 1 time to add remote remove key press lock and unlock together for 2 seconds release and then press any button Repeat for other remote open the door or key on/ off to exit programming

No problem. Not quite. You are talking about licensing for Queensland where it is completely backwards. There are different security licensing depending on if you work on domestic, commercial, safes, cars, alarms etc... I don't know specifically how it works there as I am in SA but I have talked to a few locksmiths who complain about how stupid it is, as you said, bureaucratic bull*S*H**. In other States it is a different story. For example in WA to work on cars you need a license, to plug in to them and do work diagnostically you need a separate license. Still not the best but it is better than how it is in QLD and here in SA, as we don't have any licensing here. Also, just because someone cuts keys and programs them, repairs locks and stuff like that it doesn't make them a Locksmith. That's like if I start rebuilding engines and fixing them it doesn't make me a mechanic Completely agree. As you said there is sooo much to it and it is always evolving. Over the last couple of years it has gone the way that to keep up with it you can't be doing anything else but cars. This was the way that I decided to go a few years ago and I'm still trying to catch up :) Sorry it came across that way. Most Toyotas unto 2012 can be programmed on board without a diagnostic tool, you will need the master key though.

There are a couple of different types used in actuators so the best bet would be to open it up and have a look. A lot of them would have a longer shaft in the motor for a worm drive.

Mechanical speedo cable making the noise maybe? The cluster should be fairly simple to remove, with it out of the car see if the noise is still happening or not. Or is it more like a static noise you can get in speakers?

Just to nitpick then, did you notice that your quoted text was at the bottom of my main post, the only bit I corrected you on was the type of chip it uses. You are correct that there are cars like an RA that use PINS to access the immo. Your other example of the Opel cars, MOST of these the PIN can be read by OBD as well as the mechanical key code. WITHOUT having to turn the ignition on. How awesome is that, no more picking and decoding the lock to get the key code. Now I did say "some type of authentication to access the cars computers". WIthout having an ignition ON with a lot of cars you can still get comms with a lot of the cars computers, like ECU, ABS all without needing PINS. More on my example. Most 4D Toyotas will let you reset the immo once the ignition is on, no security no authentication, you can do what ever you want. At least with VAG cars you need to have the security PIN, or on newer VAGs a valid key or its time to take the cluster out. YEs, I do know that the PINs can also be read by OBD, but it's not always a 2 minute job. So I still stand by what I said.about the authentication on the OBD. Yes some cars have it but most do not. and with those that do its a pretty ***** poor system. Such as Mitsubishi, Hyundai/ Kia/ Ford, GM.. At least the Euro's make it harder.

if there is anyone here located in Adelaide with the same car I am happy to see what remote will program in to it. It would only take half an hour to go through them. Not sure if there are many Estima owners here though?