(mr2)

No, other way around :)

This is how it is..

Master key - if genuine they are a black head or the remote key. When you insert a master into the ignition the security light will go out straight away. The master will also work on all the locks. The ONLY way Toyota can add/ remove a key is with the master even with a diagnostic machine.

valet - If genuine will be a gray non remote key. When inserted into the ignition the securty light stays on for half a second and then goes out. This will work on the doors ( Rear door too for the wagons) and ignition, not the boot or glove box.

Both keys will start the car.

If you do loose your master or even all your keys someone who knows what they are doing can code a key from the cars computer, the dealer can not, they have to replace it which is why it is soooooooooo expencive.

I kinda don't see the point having a spare master key? I don't even use the master key, but it is put safely in a draw. I have only ever used the remote keys. The ONLY time I would use it is when the transponder fooks up and I have to tell toyota to reprogram another remote key.

My two remotes are good and have been good for 10 years plus. Only reason why I had to change it is Becuz I dropped it while going for a jog one night. Swapped the transponder over and it was all good.

But the remote keys are the master, when you get the car you get 2 Masters ( black/remote) and 1 Valet (non remote/ Gray). If you don't have a master you can't delete or add any new keys or remotes and it get's expensive to fix this, much more than having a spare. What if you only had 1 master and it was stolen or lost...... then your screwed.

So much confusion.

I have 2 keys for my sportivo.

1 master key - it's black with 2 buttons on it.

1 grey key - no buttons on it.

I'm afraid that if I lose my master key (that I use everyday) I'll only have the gray key left which means I won't have remote contral locking and will have to give toyota alot of cash for a new one.

What I wanted to know is that can I buy a spare master key from the Uk (guy selling one for 20 bucks) take out the transponder chip in the key, transfer it to a new key shell from ebay and get the key cut for 10 bucks?

Can transponder chips in the master keys be programmed to another car?

Check that the numbers on the back of his remote key are the same as yours, if they are and the remote is in good condition then $20 ismoney well spend. A new key shell, chip and key cut to code all up the key would be under $120.

Like I said earlier too, use your Master to re enrol your Velat key as a Master, then you will have 3 masters...

For $10 you get only the key shell no transponder. It's not a waste of money having a spare master key, it can save you a lot of money.

Are you after a remote on the spare key or just a plain key that you can use as a master.

If it was me I would use your master key to delete all keys and code your velat key in as a master.

Locksmith :)

There are a couple of guys that do that so the customer can use a non transponder key as it is cheaper, it also voids your car insurance and personally I think it is very dodgy . Did you get a spare key while you were at the lock shop?

hopefully it's now all fixed :)

How did it go, was it the correct one for your car?

The ones on ebay are either...

1. New Chinese "Genuine" Toyota ones, good luck with it working

2. used ones, this is the best bet

or

3. From the States, so they will most likely be 1 or 2 plus the wrong frequency.

Those $260 ebay ones I can buy for around $60 if it gives you some idea of the quality.

$150 sounds like a better offer than Ebay.

Just check that the numbers on the back of the remote are the same.

I sent you a PM.

The one in my picture plugs straight into the Immo box so no amplifier.

What do you mean one that sits on the side of the barrel, there is only the one antenna. There could also be a switch on the side of the barrel which is for the buzzer when you leave the key in the ignition.

I do know a couple of guys, where out West are you??

Pretty sure that Toyota don't use Master and Valet keys with Prox, I have never seen it in the menu when coding in a key so ignore what he said.

Sorry about the bad photo but you will get the idea. The one in the photo I think might even be the same as yours. These aren't coded to the car so you will have no problem with changing it over. From a wrecker you really shouldn't be paying more than $20 for it, I got this one with the immobilizer box for that.

As you found out it's not the key, the chips in these very rarely fail. I would first be looking at the antenna that goes around the ignition. the last one that I got from the wreckers was only a couple of dollars.

What else could it be.... it's probably the antenna.

I couldn't find any on Ebay but there will be heaps at the wreckers.

No typo, give them a call and see what they charge when you have no keys, especially you guys with a 2010 Toyota that has a G stamped on the key. And you might think that us Locksmiths are expensive :) :)

I got a VIN for same car as above to get some prices, these are close to trade price so add on more and then labor. 2 Keys are also needed.

2 Prox keys @$410ea cut and coded = $810

Immobiliser box (Toyota need to replace this) $1000

Lock kit $400

So that is just $2210 in parts, add their labor and Toyota tax you won't get much change from $4,600.

it is much cheaper to get a spare.

More importantly is if you loose that key it's not going to be cheap, expect Toyota to quote you up around $4,600.

Prox keys are normally locked in a car when they are in a boot with the shopping or in a bag so even though cars now have the sensors in the boot too, it can still happen.

The dealer won't be able to code in a used Prox but it is possible to do.

Worth a shot but personally I would be going original. If you try and get that coded in and it doesn't work you will be up for a genuine Prox key.

Don't waste your money on the Ebay/ China ones. I have tested a couple of these and even though they are the correct frequency and identify as having the right chip for the transponder they wont code in. You also need a scan tool to code it in which would mean you will be paying someone to attempt to code in your key.

Go to an Auto Locksmith, you will get it for the same price as Toyota sell it except you won't have to book your car in for half a day, the dealers get the keys cut my the Locksmith anyway.

I just checked on my Hilux with the chime and the key in the ignition, mine doesn't have it so yours probably doesn't either so scrap that bit :) :)

It might be worth trying it yourself and just see if you can program back in your existing remote, this way you can eliminate the new remote being wrong and also to try find out what is wrong with your car.

i reread your original post and you said by turning the key from 'accessories' to 'on' and back to 'accessories', don't do it from ACC it's OFF.

As the remotes aren't that expensive that is where I would be starting with, easier than replacing the receiver.

This should be the method for programming in a remote when you have an existing working one.

Open drivers door and remove key from ignition

Lock doors with remote

unlock with remote

insert key in ignition

Turn from OFF to ON 20 times and leave in OFF on 20th time (Indicators will flash 20 times if done correctly)

On the last flash press the button on remote, repeat for other remotes

turn ignition ON to close programming.

Some reasons why this might not work.

Has the chime been disconnected on the ignition for when the key is left in the ignition, this needs to be connected

All the other doors closed and check the switches aren't working. Put the interior lamp on doors, close all doors and the lamp should go out.

Check all the fuses.

If you don't have a working remote try this but first make sure you have the PIN for the radio

Drivers door open no key in ignition

Disconnect battery and wait 5 seconds then reconnect

insert key and turn OFF to ON 20 times leaving in the OFF position.. from here it is the same as the other instructions.

If you don't know what you are doing then I strongly recommend to not put anything down the door cavity, there is a lot that you can do to make it worse and more expensive.

If you were having issues with the child lock then I would put my money on there being an issue with the locking mechanism. If you are lucky it might just be full of dirt and not functioning properly. Get some WD40 and as best you can spray it into the gap where the latch is. Also try with the window down and see if you can see the Mech, if you can spray on to it too.

When I get cars with this issue at work it can be tricky but I do have wedges and wires for getting into the door cavity, it can be tricky without the correct gear.

If lubricating it as best you can doesn't work you should take it to an Automotive locksmith.

There is no reason that anyone should have to damage the door to get it open and worst case you might need to replace the mechanism.

Edit.

What happens when you try to open it from the outside? is the handle hard to pull or does it pull like it did before it stopped working?

Good news. Now time to go to a Locksmiths and get a key cut to code to fix the drivers side door issue :)

Have you lubricated the locks?

The slave key will still unlock the doors and work in the ignition to start the car. All it won't do is allow you to add/ delete new keys and remotes or work in the glove box and boot lock if you have one. The best way to see how your key has been coded into the cars immobilizer is when you stick it in the ignition and turn the car on see if the security light goes one straight away ( Master) or stays on for a second ( Slave) Also if you have a remote key it will be coded in as a Master.

If the key isn't working in the door it could be a couple of things.

First, it could be the wrong key, did that key originally work in the door, have the doors been rekeyed or was the ignition rekeyed and that is what you have? ( It's probably not this one)

Secondly, the key is worn and the lock is un lubricated which is why it isn't working. Lubricate the lock with Inox or WD40 to flush the crap out of the lock, try your key again with gently wiggling it, if it turns with a bit of a wiggle your key is worn. To fix this get a new one CUT TO CODE!, not have a copy done and the local cobbler where they trace all the wear onto a new transponder key, get it done properly.

Worst case call a Auto Locksmith, don't waste your time with the dealer, they will get you to tow it in and if they can't get into it with the key guess who they call.... a Locksmith :)