(mr2)

Ground wire - Just find something screwed to the body of the car as this is ground.

For the lights can you trace a wire to the hazard switch, I think that is what most aftermarket kits suggest?

Your car doesn't have the remote immobiliser, should be 96 when it came in.

New remote is for these is still the $80 mark. They are an aftermarket factory fitted system which a few different car makers use, but Toyota do sell the remotes.

Sit in the car with the drivers door open, lock and unlock with the existing remote

insert the key in the ignition and turn from OFF to ON 20 times in 12 seconds finishing in the OFF, indicators should flash 20 times ( If they don't turn On and OFF a couple more times).

Once the hazards have stopped flashing press the button on your remote (hazards flash once) then the next remote ( Hazards flash once). Turn ignition On and OFF to finish

+++ If the remote is not working before the first step you have to remove the negative terminal for 30 seconds, connect it and then start the procedure. +++++

Does the remote have the Toyota logo on it? my records show that this should be a 2 button remote key not a separate remote, that's why I though it was the camry ( Even though the thread title says otherwise)

100% NOT GRAPHITE

This does not flush out the gunk that is in the lock and stopping it from working. The more you put in there the more it compresses together and eventually stops the key from going in the lock. Remove the lock to clean it properly, the best way is to completely strip it down and clean each part and then use a synthetic lube when reassembling it, a little squirt of DW40 every now and then also helps to keep the lube from hardening over time.

On this car the locks have small wafers inside them that always fail, more commonly is the ignition and it will jam just before the ACC position. The best way to fix it is to get the lock rekeyed and a new key cut to code. If you got someone out to do this it will be under $200, if you removed it and took it to a Locksmith it would be half that.

With your central locking, isn't there a separate module above the peddles for the central locking? You might hear a relay clicking when you lock/ unlock the door. If there is use a multi meter om the wires going to this and see what wires get power for Lock and unlock and then splice your remote locking kit to that.

Is this on the 96 Camry?

The remotes are coded into the CIR which is behind the glove compartment, The receiver for the remotes is also located here.

A new remote is around $80. Aren't these glued together?? it's not worth the hassle in trying to get an old one working as the battery will be soldered in.

Jaycar and Autobarn both sell central locking kits that will do the job.

No there isn't. Even if there was doing so would mean that the car no longer meets the ADR and would not be road worthy..

I have removed and worked on a lot of these and never seen one corroded... Do you have something leaking under the dash?

Some of these are fitted with it from factory, I'm guessing yours does not?

With the key did you lubricate the lock?? It should at least turn. it is possible that the have been cut to the wrong code from the beginning, I do know some dealers don't care about this as the customer never tries them... so why worry... or more likely the grease that is in the locks from the factory has hardened and stopping it from working properly.

"cause it to lock up and then you will never get it started" - This is 110% BS

What is it that you are buying??? the window?

I know that there are a few car makes where the locks don't work at all with out power but I did not think Toyota were did this, I haven't had one to try it on....

does the key even turn in the locks??? You should be able to at least open the boot.

Window Vs Locksmith.

have you ever had to get broken glass out of a car before??? you will still be doing it years down the track!

On the cars where the locks don't work with a flat battery one of the ways I have managed to get in is to wedge the door and use a long bit of wire to pull the bonnet release. I do have the proper tools for this to prevent ANY damage being done to the car, so I don't recommend trying this.

Your mates idea of connecting power to the starter - Not sure how that would go as I know nothing about starter motors, I'm guessing there is a low voltage wire from the ignition and a 12v from the battery so it probably would work but not recommended. failing that is the alternator fitted on the top or the bottom of the engine?

To prevent this happening later down the track it might be worth connecting a battery charger with a connection as per the link. Then the plug can be left accessible from outside the engine bay.

https://www.autoelec.com.au/ssl/public_autoelec/store_v2/product_detail.asp?id=763&cat=242

Maybe a fuel issue?? Can you check that there is voltage going to the fuel pump and that it's working. and check that there is fuel pressure in the engine bay and the lines aren't blocked.

When it stopped working how did it sound? did the engine just stop or was it sounding/ running rough?

Use the override key in the door lock, that should still work. It may need lubricating though as it won't get used much.

If there is an issue with the lock and that won't get you in then call an Auto Locksmith, it wont be cheap but it will be cheaper than breaking the window.

No sorry, I don't do much with aftermarket stuff so I can't recommend what would be good.

best bet would be to go somewhere that installs alarms and central locking and see what they recommend for your needs.

A while ago for another forum member I tried to get replacement remotes or at least the cases for them, but they haven't been made in such a long time.

I think you will be better off wiring in a new aftermarket system in place on the factory one. At least then you will be getting new remotes, which will also be more secure as they will/ should be a rolling code instead of fixed.

Even though they log fault codes unfortunately it doesn't always tell you what is wrong, it can help narrow down the cause of the issue but that's about it. between Toyota, the auto elec and mechanic surely one of them scanned the car and gave you a report on whats wrong?

If you were in Adelaide I could check the codes for you but it might be a bit far for you :)

To help narrow it down if you have the car running and parked does it eventually get hot enough and stop or is in only while you are driving?

Does it turn off while you are going around corners or driving straight?

It does sound like it might be from a component getting hot and shutting down... Bit beyond what I do but I'm guessing a sensor, if so reading the live data from the car with a scan tool should show this. it also might not be giving a fault from this issue.

They should know how to do it.. It's really not a hard car. but it can cause issues when the cars get old and aren't working 100%.

The chicken dance to put it in programming isn't that bad, if you like I can post it and you can see how you go, then you only have to worry about getting a chip.

If you unscrew it does the chip look like this?

No problem.. It is a simple job so you shouldn't have any issue.. Just tell them that you want a 4C chip coded into the car, not a TPX1 chip :)

Bottom one is a Master ( Black key, security light goes straight out) Top one is a copy, so I would bet money that its the glass chip that is in it and it's broken. I don't use that style key but I'm guessing that there would be a seam around the out side of the head? If so if it hasn't been glued it will come apart.

Bye they way, I can cut a mechanical key of that photo... it's a good idea to not show the cuts of the key. I know it is very unlikely that someone will cut a key from this picture and know where you live.....but they could if they wanted to :_

Sounds like you have aftermarket keys which would jut be a clone of the original master. yes it would be worth getting a proper chip coded into you car, this doesn't mean that you have to go to Toyota though just make sure that whoever you go to knows what they are doing... Tell them that it has to be a carbon chip and not a glass TPX.

Cost wise I do these for $160 on site for a complete key. Does yours have a red or black insert in the top of the key? and if so can you pull it out, not everyone glues these in. There will be a small hole in the bottom of the key near the blade, you can poke the insert up with that ( If it hasn't been glued). If it comes out you only need the chip replaced and not the whole key, this should only cost you $50 or so with getting it coded. I can send you one if you like and you can code it in yourself provided your other key is a master.

With the spare key does it still start and then stop straight away or is the car working properly?? So the issue is ONLY with the master key?

It is very uncommon for the chips to fail but does happen, more so when it is not the original chip and just a "clone chip".. If it is just the master it could still be possible to copy the information from it so you still have a master, you need this to add/ remove keys from your car and becomes expensive when the master is missing.

What electrics on the car do work?

Check ALL the fuses in both fuse boxes as a few of these should of blown. Hopefully nothing major has happened as Toyota charges a few grand for new computers.

Have you checked the spark plugs, they might be dirty, old or covered in oil.

Can you check the fuel pressure, the engine may be getting fuel but not enough to keep it running. So it still could be the fuel pump or filters.

Hi Robert,

Can you maybe go into a little more detail on what is happening and what you have tried?

When you turn the key does the starter motor turn, does it sound sluggish?

have you done any work on the car prior to it stopping?

Does it have fuel in the tank??

If there is a Valet button they can be located where ever the installer wants to fit them. Easiest way to find it is to start with finding the immobiliser box and work back from there.