HoldenBoi

https://www.jaycar.com.au/corrector-speedo-module/p/AA0376 Thanks for chiming in but, I didn't mention, my car is a JDM model with an electronic speedo... as opposed to the Aus model with the old school drive cable... After much running (well, calling) around, I did find out which is the speedo wire but, it's irrelevant because the corrector module doesn't work on Toyotas...

I am now the proud owner of a ST183C, a 1992 factory convertible. However, I have a minor issue, the speedometer is out (under) by around 20kph; I have purchased a corrector module & know how to connect it, I just can't seem to find where to connect it, as in, which wire on the instrument cluster connector? I have searched google with no results; I also downloaded a service manual but, it's for American/Canadian models so, the wiring is different. Any help will be greatly appreciated...

I agree; I only recently purchased a '92 for this very reason; give it a few years & the value will go up...

I've had the entire glove box out & I didn't notice anything... Previous to this car, I had another which was almost identical & never had a problem with the boot release; I could be wrong but, I'm convinced it's a wiring issue...

Yes, it only opens with the key

Yep, everything works except the boot release & glovebox light; central locking on both the keyfob & drivers door switch are fine... I was a bit concerned with the shifter light because I replaced the stock globe with an LED which blew (huh?); when I refitted the stock globe, it still worked...

I recently bought a 2000 model Avalon but the electric boot release is not working. The solenoid is working fine as I switched it with a known good unit, the problem is in the wiring. using the button on the keyfob gains the same result; the system registers & the horn chirps but, the boot refuses to open... All attempts to google the issue have failed. I've checked all fuses, which seem to be ok. While inspecting the glovebox release switch I also noticed there is no power to the glovebox light; are the two connected? What fuse should I be looking for? Some suggestions say "dome light fuse" which is ok & all the interior lights work... I could really use some help with this one; a link to a wiring diagram would be extremely helpful...

Most mechanics recommend replacing the water pump when you do the timing belt: better to do it all at once than have to do it all again when your w/p packs it in

For a Rolla Stivo? HAHA - Dude, I'm not planning on doing this to ANY car! I wouldn't even know what I'm looking at... I'm just asking in theory - is it possible, what would it involve, what sort of performance would you see etc etc... Are there even any cars that use such a setup? ANYTHING'S POSSIBLE IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH TIME & MONEY! I once saw a big block chev with twin blower setup; no idea how it performed though...

Your best bet is to pull one out of a wreck; not mucking around & you know it'll fit perfectly. I did this in my '96 Camry, went from double din unit to single din & a pocket, it looks factory & only cost me $10 http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?app=garage&do=view_image&id=4431

The thing about this Maccas is it doesn't get a lot of pedestrian traffic, &, for Bankstown, it's pretty good. I'm all for it

Does anyone know of anywhere who does wheel repairs (remove buckle from beads) around the Bankstown NSW area? I know of one place in Milperra but they want $150 per wheel (repair & repaint) &, as I only paid $100 for the set of wheels, not sure it's worth that much to get them fixed. Any input would be helpful Update: I can now get the paint & respray them myself, so now all I need is repairs

As they say, "hindsight is 20 20", hence the need for a new mechanic. If you read back though, I was thinking injector on Sunday; should've gone with my gut & left the mechanic out of it

My home made, custom built Fusion sub box. I've built sub boxes before but never this good looking. I only did it to prove I could :)

My home made, custom built Fusion sub box. I've built sub boxes before but never this good looking. I only did it to prove I could :)

Well, haven't I had a busy afternoon. After doing a sound check on my injectors I noticed that #3 (yes, the one under the middle of the plenum chamber) was considerably quieter than all the others so I bit the bullet & pulled it out, swapping it with it's front opposite. Guess what happened: yes, the missfire moved! So, off to the wreckers & forked out $100 for a set of injectors from a low Ks, gas powered unit. New injectors with new O rings (I'm not taking any chances, I don't want to have to do this again) & it runs like a new car What have I learned from this? 1. Get a better mechanic! (the guy I used said he did his apprenticeship on these cars & still couldn't figure it out) 2. Always remember Occams Razor - the simplest answer is usually the right one Thanks to trentmeyer23 for the input Thanks also to greycliffe for the link to the 3VZ-FE workshop manual

That's exactly what I thought so, this morning, I disconnected both O2 sensors; no better, no worse. I'll try switching them & see what happens. I'm also about to start pricing new injectors

Update: Spent most of the day (& most of my money) with the mechanic. Distributor cap: piece broken off at the bottom - replaced, onboard injector clean done, runs great for about 15 minutes then #3 dies while the mechanic is driving. Put it on the diagnosis scanner & no signal from the rear oxygen sensor. Now I acquire replacement & see if that fixes it. Process of elimination has now cost nearly $500 in the last 3 days

Thanks for that. I've been looking for that for almost a year. Very in depth. I have a Haynes manual for the car but it's very basic compared to this.

Isolated injector or compression checked the cylinder yet? They're next on the list, but thanks. The funny thing is it only happens once the engine heats up. I'm seriously thinking injector. More soon

To all the naysayers that think the spark plugs in an 92 - 96 V6 Camry can't be changed without removing the intake plenum: it's not easy but possible. I had a dead cylinder so I started with the basics. Leads are 2 months old so time for new plugs. Total time, just under 45 minutes (10 minutes for the front bank). However, I have: 20 years professional experience (although I've never done this particular job before) all the right tools (extensions, uni joints) very small hands So, now I can say I've done it but, I still have a dead cylender.... more on that later

Darkest "legal" for NSW is 35% NON REFLECTIVE but only for the sides. Back window you can go as dark as you like but I would go with 20%. with a black interior 35% will appear darker anyway. Form experience, DIY is NOT as easy as it seems but you never know until you try. My advice is BUY EXTRA, you WILL mess up until you get the hang of it

Coming from a panel beater, a respray is totally different to colour change (which is what you want). To do this add at least another $2k to the quote as there is a LOT more work involved. If you have deep pockets then, sure, go ahead, Otherwise, stick to the original colour. Oh, and if you do decide on a colour change, be prepared to be without your car for at least an extra 2 - 3 weeks

Larger wheels with low profile tyres means the tyres don't roll across the rim, therefore better handling. Lowering the suspension & stronger sway bars also helps. As for power; little (but expensive) things like bigger exhaust, larger throttle body, free air intake, larger injectors, etc are just that; little things that will add little power. As all the guys above have already said, boost it, keeping in mind that this will more than likely require an engine rebuild. Also keep in mind; the faster it goes the faster in needs to stop

If you wait a few months ie: until winter, the price usually comes down. Not many people consider having thier windows tinted in winter therefore tinters drop the price just to get the work in