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Mine doesn't lock automatically. Of course, you should lock your doors when you leave the car but once in awhile when you forget, it would be a great safety net if the car would lock itself when the key is no longer in range.

Slightly off topic; I saw the link that jrhowie put up. The car is automatically locked when the key isn't within range. Would it be possible to configure the stock keyless start system to do that too?

Personally, I used a metra axxess aswc kit for my pioneer headunit. http://www.amazon.com/Metra-ASWC-Universal-Steering-Interface/dp/B0039H2W66/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1320400617&sr=8-1 Checked JB-Hifi for the PAC-SWI unit. 200bucks. Just order it off amazon, cheaper even with shipping. Piece of cake to install.

Hmm... most modders do carbon fibre wrap but you've got a pretty interesting idea there. Personally, I like the silver trim which is why I didn't carbon fibre wrap mine. IMO, carribean blue might look a little odd in a greyish cabin. I would go for a more generic color, say a different shade of silver or gloss white? Good choice with changing the headunit. I put it off till recently, should have done it first.

From A8-A9 of Air_Conditioning.pdf, a few examples that the dualzone a/c has over the manual would be: -air mix control servo motor (passsenger side) -a/c solar sensor but for the specifics, I would defer DJKOR and his wisdom :P TBH, I find that the dual zone aircon is pretty useless. In fact, neither me nor my passengers have ever used the dualzone function. Climate control wouldn't be of much use unless you're going on long journeys (which i don't do very often) It certainly looks cooler than the manual a/c but otherwise, serves no purpose. If I were you, I would perhaps put my money towards getting a better headunit

1. Factory head unit produces a rushing noise which is quite audible when you plug in the amps. 2. For good bass, you'll need speakers that are able to reproduce strong lower frequencies. Otherwise, you'd be looking at an amp+sub combo. 3. Most aftermarket headunits produce reasonably good quality sound without an additional amp (50w x 4) I'd recommend changing the crappy stock head unit and putting in good aftermarket speakers. You can also consider installing an additional 4ch amp and/or an amp+sub combo in the future. If you're not getting a navigation head unit, I recommend that you buy it from US (same with speakers). Less than half the price of aus.

WHAT!? Biggest ripoff of the century. 690bucks to replace a bulb!? You can get a full philips hid conversion kit for 125 incl shipping. ebay

1. The rushing noise (hiss) is probably produced by the stock head unit and amplified by the amp. There's nothing that you can do about it besides changing the HU You can try to confirm this by unplugging the high level inputs on your amp, plugging in an mp3 to the amp via RCA to 3.5mm If the noise dissapears, this confirms that it's the head unit causing it. 2. Alternator whine Many possible causes. Since your power and REM cables are separated from the speaker wire, it shouldn't be the cause of the issue. Look for exposed wire. If you have bare wire touching the vehicle body, it's certain to introduce the whine. If possible, check whether the whine is coming from any particular speaker. If it's coming from a specific one, you'll want to check the wiring for that speaker. Even a strand of copper touching the vehicle body WILL introduce significant noise. It's quite unlikely that a poor ground is the cause. I'm running 2 760w amps and I'm not getting any issues despite simply bolting the ground cables to existing holes in the vehicle body without sanding. Source of knowledge: many, many, many hours of climbing over my car like a monkey

Update: So i installed Rockford front & rear speakers, powered by a 4ch 760w Pioneer amp. A 10" Alpine sub powered by a bridged 2ch 760w Pioneer amp. The amps are hooked directly to the high level outputs from the headunit. I simply cut stock wiring and channeled signal to the amp, then amp output back to speakers. As for the stock tweeters, I left them untouched. So far, SQ is great (besides the rushing noise from the stock hu) and stock tweeters work fine. New pioneer hu coming in from US next week. Let's see how it goes. Oh, and from pg104 of Audio_Visual.pdf (Aurion service manual), the tweeters are connected in parallel with the front speakers i.e. LH tweeter is connected in parallel with FL speaker. As to the physical location of this connection, I'm not sure

+1 keyless entry and keyless start I always get confused when I drive the other family cars without keyless start. Put my hand on the dash to push the start button and I realise that it's not there Yea that's the aurion S2. If I'm not wrong, it's +10k for a S2 aurion compared to S1. I got my ZR6 with 20,000k within your price range. Look around, you'll find a good deal!

So 2 months later, the crappy sony speaker installation is history. Got some experience from it though. Now I've got Rockford front & rear speakers powered by a 4ch 760w Pioneer amp a 10" alpine sub in a sealed box powered by a 2ch bridged 760w Pioneer amp All installed perfectly by myself SQ is pretty awesome, even with the stock head unit (which will be replaced by a pioneer HU next week) However, there's an annoying rattle in the boot. I suspect it's coming from the spoiler. I've already pulled out the rear parcel shelf and dampened the metal shelf under it but the rattle is still there. Anyone experiencing that problem?

BNO that's an awesome looking setup.

Should have checked carefully before you bought it Not sure about the ticking noise. I'm sure that someone else can offer you some advice on that. For the cupholder, you can try removing the panel and checking the mechanism. Perhaps there may be something blocking or simply that the mechanism is faulty. It's really simple: 1. Unscrew the shift knob and take it off 2. Just lift up the armrest, no need to remove it 3. Tug on the 2 panels on either side to loosen it. It should unclip easily. 4. Pull the panel upwards. You shouldn't require too much force otherwise you're not doing it correctly. - You may have to put the gear to "D" to make room to lift the panel. Of course, make sure that the engine is off, parking brake is on and your car will not roll off. - You may have to unclip some of the wiring to take the panel out and examine it. Everything should just unclip and clip back easily.

Replacing stock TRD 19x8s in silver.... For Sale after thursay if anyone is interested. Perfect condition no scrubs or scrapes, tires at 75%. if only you were in perth....