lasertip

Mine doesn't lock automatically. Of course, you should lock your doors when you leave the car but once in awhile when you forget, it would be a great safety net if the car would lock itself when the key is no longer in range.

Slightly off topic; I saw the link that jrhowie put up. The car is automatically locked when the key isn't within range. Would it be possible to configure the stock keyless start system to do that too?

Personally, I used a metra axxess aswc kit for my pioneer headunit. http://www.amazon.com/Metra-ASWC-Universal-Steering-Interface/dp/B0039H2W66/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1320400617&sr=8-1 Checked JB-Hifi for the PAC-SWI unit. 200bucks. Just order it off amazon, cheaper even with shipping. Piece of cake to install.

Hmm... most modders do carbon fibre wrap but you've got a pretty interesting idea there. Personally, I like the silver trim which is why I didn't carbon fibre wrap mine. IMO, carribean blue might look a little odd in a greyish cabin. I would go for a more generic color, say a different shade of silver or gloss white? Good choice with changing the headunit. I put it off till recently, should have done it first.

From A8-A9 of Air_Conditioning.pdf, a few examples that the dualzone a/c has over the manual would be: -air mix control servo motor (passsenger side) -a/c solar sensor but for the specifics, I would defer DJKOR and his wisdom :P TBH, I find that the dual zone aircon is pretty useless. In fact, neither me nor my passengers have ever used the dualzone function. Climate control wouldn't be of much use unless you're going on long journeys (which i don't do very often) It certainly looks cooler than the manual a/c but otherwise, serves no purpose. If I were you, I would perhaps put my money towards getting a better headunit

1. Factory head unit produces a rushing noise which is quite audible when you plug in the amps. 2. For good bass, you'll need speakers that are able to reproduce strong lower frequencies. Otherwise, you'd be looking at an amp+sub combo. 3. Most aftermarket headunits produce reasonably good quality sound without an additional amp (50w x 4) I'd recommend changing the crappy stock head unit and putting in good aftermarket speakers. You can also consider installing an additional 4ch amp and/or an amp+sub combo in the future. If you're not getting a navigation head unit, I recommend that you buy it from US (same with speakers). Less than half the price of aus.

WHAT!? Biggest ripoff of the century. 690bucks to replace a bulb!? You can get a full philips hid conversion kit for 125 incl shipping. ebay

1. The rushing noise (hiss) is probably produced by the stock head unit and amplified by the amp. There's nothing that you can do about it besides changing the HU You can try to confirm this by unplugging the high level inputs on your amp, plugging in an mp3 to the amp via RCA to 3.5mm If the noise dissapears, this confirms that it's the head unit causing it. 2. Alternator whine Many possible causes. Since your power and REM cables are separated from the speaker wire, it shouldn't be the cause of the issue. Look for exposed wire. If you have bare wire touching the vehicle body, it's certain to introduce the whine. If possible, check whether the whine is coming from any particular speaker. If it's coming from a specific one, you'll want to check the wiring for that speaker. Even a strand of copper touching the vehicle body WILL introduce significant noise. It's quite unlikely that a poor ground is the cause. I'm running 2 760w amps and I'm not getting any issues despite simply bolting the ground cables to existing holes in the vehicle body without sanding. Source of knowledge: many, many, many hours of climbing over my car like a monkey

Update: So i installed Rockford front & rear speakers, powered by a 4ch 760w Pioneer amp. A 10" Alpine sub powered by a bridged 2ch 760w Pioneer amp. The amps are hooked directly to the high level outputs from the headunit. I simply cut stock wiring and channeled signal to the amp, then amp output back to speakers. As for the stock tweeters, I left them untouched. So far, SQ is great (besides the rushing noise from the stock hu) and stock tweeters work fine. New pioneer hu coming in from US next week. Let's see how it goes. Oh, and from pg104 of Audio_Visual.pdf (Aurion service manual), the tweeters are connected in parallel with the front speakers i.e. LH tweeter is connected in parallel with FL speaker. As to the physical location of this connection, I'm not sure

+1 keyless entry and keyless start I always get confused when I drive the other family cars without keyless start. Put my hand on the dash to push the start button and I realise that it's not there Yea that's the aurion S2. If I'm not wrong, it's +10k for a S2 aurion compared to S1. I got my ZR6 with 20,000k within your price range. Look around, you'll find a good deal!

So 2 months later, the crappy sony speaker installation is history. Got some experience from it though. Now I've got Rockford front & rear speakers powered by a 4ch 760w Pioneer amp a 10" alpine sub in a sealed box powered by a 2ch bridged 760w Pioneer amp All installed perfectly by myself SQ is pretty awesome, even with the stock head unit (which will be replaced by a pioneer HU next week) However, there's an annoying rattle in the boot. I suspect it's coming from the spoiler. I've already pulled out the rear parcel shelf and dampened the metal shelf under it but the rattle is still there. Anyone experiencing that problem?

BNO that's an awesome looking setup.

Should have checked carefully before you bought it Not sure about the ticking noise. I'm sure that someone else can offer you some advice on that. For the cupholder, you can try removing the panel and checking the mechanism. Perhaps there may be something blocking or simply that the mechanism is faulty. It's really simple: 1. Unscrew the shift knob and take it off 2. Just lift up the armrest, no need to remove it 3. Tug on the 2 panels on either side to loosen it. It should unclip easily. 4. Pull the panel upwards. You shouldn't require too much force otherwise you're not doing it correctly. - You may have to put the gear to "D" to make room to lift the panel. Of course, make sure that the engine is off, parking brake is on and your car will not roll off. - You may have to unclip some of the wiring to take the panel out and examine it. Everything should just unclip and clip back easily.

Replacing stock TRD 19x8s in silver.... For Sale after thursay if anyone is interested. Perfect condition no scrubs or scrapes, tires at 75%. if only you were in perth....

So true. Given that this is a public forum in which majority of actively participating members are modders, it would be far more encouraging and welcoming to turn down flaming a notch. Showing displeasure can be as polite as "sorry dude, not my cup of tea" damn, I sound like a hippie

Wheeww. Getting hot in here. IMO a little mod is good for the sake of being unique. Not to be overdone though. However, I never really agreed with the noisy exhaust thing. No need to announce to the entire suburb that I'm cruisin' through. With regards to the original post however, I've driven toyotas, hondas and mercs. My biggest issue with toyotas is that they just can't match honda and mercs in terms of material quality. By quality, I mean flimsy cabin panels, crappy plastic clips, etc. The quality of hondas cabin finish is comparable to mercs. Sound quality: The honda odyssey has an epic stock sound system. Toyota has a lot of catching up to do here (if they even bother trying)

Spoke to Steven about it. That's what he said as well. However, the distortion shouldn't be noticeable, especially since mine ain't exactly a high end setup. Just an old 10" alpine sub with a kicker amp. Cheap rockford fosgate prime front & rear speakers and a mid range 760w 4ch pioneer amp. I'll put it all in using the stock head unit and see how it goes. Tweeters remain connected to factory head unit while amp is hooked up to existing wiring via high level outputs. Sub amp ran in parallel with rear speakers.

Hey guys, Well I just messaged Steven this question but I thought that it might be good to hear some opinions as well. Currently, I have a stereo amp wired in parallel to the rear speakers, powering a subwoofer. I've ordered a 4ch pioneer amp and rockford fosgate front & rear speakers. I was thinking of getting an aftermarket head unit, and using this setup: My question is about the stock tweeters. I'm aware that they need a high pass filter. I read in a previous post by Steven that the tweeters have some kind of capacitor in them. I'm confused as to whether the filters are in the stock head unit, somewhere in the tweeter speaker cable or built into the tweeter? Is it possible that I simply connect the tweeters in parallel with the front speakers or do I need a crossover?

bump. Apparently someone else has already thought of the idea before me.. chanced upon these: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2007-2011-Toyota-Camry-Mirror-LED-Turn-Signals-lights-/130480796797?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6142f47d#ht_3535wt_1139

Thanks dude! Honestly, it isn't hard. It would be a great learning experience if you did it yourself! I'll order my stuff from US. I'm trying to get more powerful rear speakers so that I won't need a sub. RMS and Peak Wattages are for 1 speaker. For shipping, I have a friend who can collect it for me, so I only pay for shipping within US Front: Rockford Fosgate P1653 6.5" Component (http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?item_id=112885) 3 Way | 60W RMS | 120W Peak | 60Hz-24KHz Response | 40USD Free shipping Rear: Either 1. MB Quart Formula FTA169 6x9" Coaxial (http://www.jbhifionline.com.au/car-sound/car-speakers/mb-quart-fta169-6x9-inch-3-way-car-speakers/436118) 3 Way | 50W RMS | 180W Peak | 40Hz-32KHz Response | 44USD Free shipping or 2. Rockford Fosgate R1693 6x9" Full Range(http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?item_id=112913) 3 Way | 60W RMS | 120W Peak | 48Hz-22KHz Response | 45USD Free shipping Amp: Pioneer GM-6500F (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Series/GM-6500F) 4/3/2 Channel | 60W x 4 Continuous @ 4ohms | 760W Max | 120USD + 18USD shipping Amp powering all 4 speakers. Bass may not be as strong as I hoped but there's always room for expansion. Could always put in another amp for the front speakers and connect the pioneer amp to a sub. What do you guys think? What if instead I had Rear: Kenwood KFC - 6983PS 6x9" Coaxial (http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/Speakers/6''_x_9''_Speakers/KFC-6983PS) 4 Way | 110W RMS | 450W Peak | 66Hz-22KHz Response Amp: Pioneer GM-5500T (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Series/GM-5500T) 2 Channel | 125W x 2 Continuous @ 4ohms | 820W Max Rear speakers running off amps and front running off stock head unit? Thing is that the Kenwood 6983s are 102.4mm deep, 78mm mounting depth. Can they fit?

So you're saying that it's best to leave the stock tweeters unless I'm getting it in a set with the sub? Anyway, I made mounts for the speakers today. Bass is now a little stronger and it looks sort of decent now. Was a pretty simple job with a drill and jigsaw.

Yup. Neodymium magnets have better magnetic properties than ferrite ones but somehow or other... the stock speakers are terrible. Call it a preconceived bias or not but even with this horrible setup, I'm getting an improved bass response and far better clarity. Sounds reasonable, use the door as a sub enclosure, allowing the entire door to resonate. Looks like I'll have to do this sooner than I hoped to. Since today is the last day of my uni week, looks like it's time to break out the powertools What do you think if I built a custom mount of a single board of plywood that covers the entire gap in the door and mounted the speaker on a hole cut in the middle with minimum gaps in between? Is there any use for the retarded 11buck foam spacers that I bought? Which tweeter did you get? Besides the xt25 recommended by steven, are there any other good, value-for-money tweeters around?

A few questions: 1. Has anyone changed their tweeters? 2. Why does it seem like everyone uses 6.5" speakers for the front and 6x9" for the rear? Why aren't 6x9s used in front? So I dropped by supercheapauto to get a replacement fuse and saw these for pretty cheap: http://www.sony.com.au/product/xs-gtf1627 Got them for 40bucks. The sony website sure makes these little suckers look pimped up. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Sony-Speakers-6-2-Way-XS-GTF1627.aspx?pid=286311#Description Was late at night and I didn't want to take out the mitre saw and wake the neighbours so I just did it the quick and crappy way with a small piece of plywood. I can see the number of people shaking their heads right now. Some time when I'm free, I'll redo them properly with a plywood board or perhaps change them to better ones. Would it make a big difference if I put the foam padding thingy on the speakers? Stupid thing cost 11bucks... for 2 rings of foam. They certainly are an upgrade from stock speakers which by the way are surprisingly light. Intend to get these for the back and an amp to power them. Probably won't need a subwoofer then. http://www.en.kenwood.com.pa/Car_Entertainment/Speaker_Systems/Altavoces_Ovaladas/KFC-6993PS

Nice! I never thought that those would go well with the aurion but you proved me wrong :P I'm switching mine to LED strips around the headlights. Waiting for them to come in