Jump to content

camsport

Regular Member
  • Posts

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Toyota Model
    Camry Sportivo 2003

camsport's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (6/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. I think we're done guys! The on-boad trip computer has come down to 12 and my last 25 litres looks like it's about to hit 240kmh, which by my calulations is 10.5L/100km. No driving like a girl either, lots of kicks in the guts and steady cruise speeds. Did not expect an EGR valve to play such a vital role in fuel economy. I guess one factor I should have paid more attention to was that it idled and started so well. My point being whatever was causing the issue was at speed, plenty of guts just not happy cruisng. Here's one that may be common to other V6 3.0L models. STARTING ISSUES! Late to fire, takes about 5 sec plus of cranking and finally start but may splutter without some gas. Hot or cold the same, mostly concerned I was going to need a new battery and or starter soon enough. Did the usual, ISC on the throttle body, known good spark plugs, battey good, starter fine. My best guess wasfuel pressure issues, but the hassle of finding the right pump was already an issue as the specified unit for my car was wrong in the workshop manual, as is the TPS sensor, throtle body, accelerator pedal...! Basically in this model the fuelpump sits within a 3 part plastic housing that "clicks" apart, bananas! After dissasembling the beasty I noticed a filter section within the main plastic housing, above what I assume is a removeable regulator and below a black plastic plug. This seems to be a black/charcoal coloured filter in the form of what I can only describe as rolled up cardboard. Once the top black plastic plug was pulled off, a heap of petrol poured out, not red in colour black dark, looked very dirty. Ran some clean fuel through it and re-assemble taking not of a silly spring under the balck plug...no idea what it does. Well about 10 minutes later I plugged in the fuel pump relay and primed the pump with a few ignition on/off turns before kicking it over. Started staight up! Let it sit and checked it every 5 minutes until having it hijacked by the kid! Went online to look at pricing the pump and was mortified to see that what was in my car is not was is sold for it, basically will not fit. Hope this helps someone out!
  2. The car did have a huge issue with econmy and it ended up being the EGR valve. The starting problem seems to be getting worse. My gut feeling sais its not electrical. I might toss in some injector cleaner tomorrow and see how it goes...
  3. Heh...ok 3 things I have no way of checking. Can you expound on say checking the spring for the return line? Thanks!
  4. Unsure of brand, but what ever the Dealership gets in i suppose, we don't request anything different as we have never had a problem with any vehicles being serviced there. We have the family cars serviced there and they are 2000 Camry, 2004 Corolla, 2005 Camry, 2009 Aurion Just wondering if you resolved your problem? I have just gone through some major fault finding issues and now I have the same problem, mostly on cold start but even throughout the day sometimes. Plenty of battery power, just won't fire. Cheers
  5. I think we're done guys! The on-boad trip computer has come down to 12 and my last 25 litres looks like it's about to hit 240kmh, which by my calulations is 10.5L/100km. No driving like a girl either, lots of kicks in the guts and steady cruise speeds. Did not expect an EGR valve to play such a vital role in fuel economy. I guess one factor I should have paid more attention to was that it idled and started so well. My point being whatever was causing the issue was at speed, plenty of guts just not happy cruisng.
  6. Turn of events... While reading through some other posts and running issues I came across the symptoms a blocked EGR valve can have and thought "hmmm, let's check this out too" So from what I understand it's meant to open at cruising speeds and at operating temp to reduce combustion temperatures at "lean burn" levels. After 3 grazed knuckles and a copule of scratches I got the mongrel out! In hindsight I should have applied a vacuum to it straight off and test it but I was too curious to see what treasures it had inside. Removed a threaded bolt that looks like a drain/cleaning port and started. Some carby cleaner, small cloth pieces on a wire and it was flying out. I have a hand vacuum pump for bleeing brake lines so easy to leave open while the cleaner poured out...very dirty! Initially I think it was hard to open but then it seemded to free up. Back on the car and ran down the freeway all good. So! Suddenly acceleration is dramatic, auto gear change is crisp, even the on board avg fuel useage has moved down to 13... I don't know what to make of this just yet so I'll post back in a day or two. Did not expect any real change in acceleration or performance, I am sure the EGR only works at cruising speeds.
  7. Thanks for that. I will look into the throttle body cleaner!
  8. Uhm...I believe it is a MAF sensor , located in the air intake above the air cleanaer element. Two screws hold it in place, looks like a hairpin with a blob on the end. I have measured this at teperature and it is withing specs, it looks as if it just went in, new. Oddly though next to the air intake box another sensor ( I think) it's mounted on a bracket, looks like about 10 pins. This I have no idea about, there is no reference to this rectangular block anywhere. Cheers...
  9. Hi Martin, Don't know the BOMBDAS rule but I had suspected the local 7/11 when I filled up with some 74 litres on a 1/4 tank, not the Camry. Even the Ford wagon only has 72 litres usable capacity. Calculations are basic: I pay no attention to the trip computer and only use the lires in against kmh driven fill to fill. Last time we added 30L and drove 147km before the light stayed on (fuel warning on dash) The fuel cap is always pressurised, no leeks as I have brown paper under the car, not even an oil stain! I have checked the filler hose, cannister and evap line, physically under the car followed all the lines and check for any marks or leek discolourations etc. Yesterday I removed the TPS and still have no values to check it against. It is labelled Toyota 89452-33030, resistance closed is .22k Ohms increasing smoohly to 2.8k ohms at WOT postion. On re-installing it I did find it is pre-tensioned just to line up the screw holes. On a Ford you basically chuck on a new one and run a calibration with the ignition on then idling for 1 minute. I have read with Toyota's you need a feeler guage etc but that's rubbish as there is no give (holes not slots) on the TPS. One detail I have not mentioned is the filth seen in the throttle body. I have cleaned this out twice now using the right cleaner. Looking past the throttle plate the plenum chamber is covered in dark oil deposits that look like spatter. Last week I also removed and cleaned the pcv valve which was gummed and partially clogged, not inoperative but very average. The car has fresh synthetic oil and filter...can't actually see past the silly rocker cover screen to get an indication of upper head compenets.
  10. Thanks Krusty and Drew, I did look for the reset button but oddyly enough there is'nt one! I have though reset the ECU to no avail, the concern with the TPS was that Icould'nt check it against any known values, the workshop manual has everything but these details and shows a 5 pin unit and a throttle bidy with a motor that controls the throttle. Mine is basically an accelerator cable set-up with a TPS. Fuel line, tanks, cannister lines etc I visually checked myself and have done so while running as the fuel useage/loss is paramount to a leak. I guess what's really annoying is that there is no accurate manual that covers the vehicle. My car has two O2 sensors and after searcing no A/F sensor. Manually checking the rer O2 sensor was a pain but this too was according to specs. Is it possible that the timing is out? That is when the timing belt was done was it set up right or wrong and can this happen? Is there a quick way to check alignment?
  11. Thanks WC. Toyota checked pump and filter in the tank, cleaned injectors and fuel rail. We are just off the main road so withing 200 meters we have to get up to 80kmh and the auto revs high in 3rd, I can hear it suffering but what do you do. Fuel is from all over as I'm on the road a fair bit, though know one servo where you can put in 74 litres in a 1/4 full tank! I figure I have the only 90L litre fuel tank in the world!
  12. Yeah nowhere near that! Just posted about out 3.0L running at about 20L/100. Oddly it runs better and longer on the low octane fuel!
  13. I am at my witts end with this Camry. From 13's to 17 now we get almost 20L/100 and no one knows how to rectify. It's a 2003 3.0L Sportivo with just over 100k on the clock, never missed a service and runs like a dream. Two Toyota service dept's have checked over it with no faults or errors. New catalytic, nothing, fuel rail clean out, the same maybe worse. Does better on standard unleaded, anything higher seems to evaporate... Personally the only item I am suspect about is the TPS sensor as I can't find a ref to it in the workshop manual, our has 3 pins not 5 or 6. Symptoms are: Excessive high idle when cold, say 3-5 mins, auto wont't kick up into 4th on cold, and it seems unresponsive at times. Have "felt" a surge or falter at cruisng speeds of about 70kmh, but not always. We don't go by the trip computer only litres in and kilometers travelled, displays between 13 & 14L/100km. We have now stopped driving it. Anyone? Oh yes and we did check the tyre presure thank you Toyota!
  14. I am looking at doing mine too but not sandb-lasting, I don't think it's required. Depending on the new colour, get some etch-primer either white or gray. Ensure the rim is absolutely clean and masked extrnally and covered internally(brakes etc) The trikiest bit for me is the wheel nuts, so I'll just get some new ones after. I'm planning on a charcoal colour with a low gloss level. I've done this before and light coats about 1 foot from the job is best. Pick a warm day with the least amount of wind. Don't do 1 wheel at a time, clean them all, mask them and then prime ec. Cheers.
  15. Have you considered a double din replacement that has all the features your after? My 2003 Sportivo had the standard 6 CD unit and I just replaced it with an Ebay unit that has bluetooth, touch screen high res, AU GPS, MP3, DVD, Ipod in and SD car,USB in, etc and reversing camera input for about $260. The unit had its own Toyota Camry wiring adaptor so it was plug and play, perfect fit into the existing brackets and no gap when the dash went in. Easily the fastest install ever done, maybe 10 mins? The units sell for about $350 on Ebay, I bid on one and it only went to $220 plus shipping, pretty happy with it.
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership