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jeffy

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Posts posted by jeffy

  1. id go 2.5" with no cat, and for your muffler - to reduce rasp, make sure your muffler has bends inside rather than a straight through muffler, maybe even get a bee-r revlimiter ? haha

     

    setup i have atm is 2.5" stainless steel with mandrel bends, 100cel cat and a (sized as close to oem) straight through muffler (also have intake and headers) i get some crackles if i let off around 3000rpm and some pops sometimes when i shift 😛

    - its droney sitting on 2900 on the fwy, i guess a resonator would fix it

    -its raspy because of the straight through muffler choice

    • Thanks 1
  2. On 11/24/2018 at 1:03 PM, edgrad said:

    I have an AC problem where the AC, which blows very chill when it runs, like to turn itself off randomly.
    The AC light is still lit up as though it's on but it stops blowing chilled air. If I press the AC button off then on again, it starts blowing chill air again.
    I'm running out of ideas. 
     

    ive experienced the same thing a week ago on a warm humid day. when i ran a/con max fan speed, it started to do the same and then blink.. then stopped blowing cold air... a few minutes after i  decided to use the 3/4 fan speed... it was consistent.. but then the temperatures started to rise. so i stopped using a/c

     

    ive been advised to rebleed the radiator with heater on as there may be air bubbles

  3. wow ! you guys have good oil usage ! 

    ive used the 20w50 for about a year or so (and change every 5000kms) , as my engine has high mileage.

     

    ive noticed that i burn the same amount as zains camry at 1500 =\ .. so now i change every 3000kms .. high mileage life 😧 (engine has done 310,xxx kms)

  4. On 11/15/2018 at 6:40 PM, ZZT86 said:

    Personally I would not use 20W50 unless engine was using a bit of oil &/or you consistently drove in very hot climate.

     

    http://australiancar.reviews/2AZ-FE-engine.php

    Quote

    The 2AZ-FE engine is susceptible to excessive oil consumption due to oil getting past the piston rings and into the combustion chamber. There have been reports of excessive oil consumption for the 2AZ-FE powered Toyota Vehicles with mileages as low as 70,000, though it is commonly experienced from 100,000 to 120,000 kms

     

    • Thanks 1
  5. On 10/30/2018 at 12:46 PM, ben yip said:

    Jeff 

    Please open your left passenger door to check the gear box model. It is hardcoded in a sllver badge with the VIN number, or call toyota directly to ask the gearbox model

    Australian zre in my version (2010 up) use EC60, previous zre version uses c60

    USA uses different version

    Don't use a clutch LSD, it requires a lot more maintenance. I use the one from Quaife, it will tell which gearbox will it suit. You also need to buy few tapering bearing from toyota. It does not come with the LSD

    Installing LSD is not cheap, you might fix whatever stuff inside the gearbox, I fix a couple of rings inside my box

    Are you still considering getting another car? 

     

    car has been converted into manuels ben, so that silver card will indicate u151 or whatever auto box it had 😛

    its deffs an e354 series as the v6 models uses the e153 series

    Quote

    Installing LSD is not cheap, you might fix whatever stuff inside the gearbox, I fix a couple of rings inside my box

    its not so bad, you get what you pay for,  seems like its DIY-able, and the "stuff " inside the gearbox, could be your syncros and bearings - which is pretty much a rebuild afaik..

     

    Quote

    Are you still considering getting another car? 

    at this stage... not really, i dont quite like the newer models and how everything is electronic-y - the only other car is till have my eyes on is a supra.. :)  .. toyotafanboyforlife 😛

  6. 19 hours ago, Benau said:

    Mine is a 5 speed Altise Limited. I'm not worried about the trip computer i just like to have a working clock but it would be nice if the keyless entry worked properly too. The clock/display units are rare as hens teeth in the local wrecking yards. I was lucky to find one at all.

     

    indeed  they are, and they're also easy to break... im on my 3rd one atm,.. and have given up on replacing it,  just have it plugged in for the central locking to work 😛

     

    Quote

    I'm thinking of removing the LCD display from the unit with the working clock and soldering it into the original to build 1 good unit with working display and keyless entry that works like it should

     

    good idea ! 

  7. 13 hours ago, Benau said:

    Hi all i'm new to this forum but  have found it very useful  when diagnosing faults in Toyotas.

    I recently bought a Cheap 05 Camry and i'm tidying it up to make it a bit more pleasant.

     

    hello and welcome !

    what badge is your camry (sportivo/azura  or altise) reason i ask is i think the ECU is different, and some of the sportivo display functionalities (kms left, distance to.. etc) wont work on the altise.

     

    Quote

    The clock above the Stereo had a burnt out LCD display so i replaced it with one from the wreckers so now i have a clock and trip computer. As it had no keyless remote, a week later i also bought a new aftermarket 2 button Remote entry key fob. Then the saga began.

    I could not get the car to recognize the new remote, it would go into programming mode and "PRO" would appear on the clock display but press the remote and nothing. I was doing everything correctly but it simply wouldn't recognize the remote

    did you get the remote from eBay ? some ebay wireless keys may not work for audm models.?

    also these cars never came in keyless afaik ..  

  8. On 10/26/2018 at 9:12 AM, Hiro said:

    Isn't the 03-08 Matrix the ZZ-engined one, which would therefore use C-series boxes?

    did further reading and saw that 09-13 corolla matrix (zre152 chasis) uses the 2az and e series combo 😄 and they even have an AWD version 😮

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_E_transmission#E35x

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Matrix

    On 10/27/2018 at 10:39 AM, Hiro said:

    Try checking UK forums etc, the Avensis is what Toyota Europe sold as the family car instead of the Camry

    shooting blanks  from the UK ... i think i might just go USA, i think these should fit 😣

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-ATB-Helical-LSD-Differential-Fits-05-10-tC-08-15-xB-2-4L-DOHC-5-Spd-M-T-/182603969289

    https://deftmotion.com/quaife-atb-helical-lsd-differential-toyota-scion-tc-e350-xb-2nd-gen-5-speed/

     

    would you know anyone local (au) that do LSDs ?

  9. 10 hours ago, Hiro said:

    Isn't the 03-08 Matrix the ZZ-engined one, which would therefore use C-series boxes?

    you're absolutely right ! had to double double check it

    seems like i was reading a catalouge from an "avensis" , thanks ian ! 

    now i know that those corolla boxes still wont fit, may have to further check  the ones from the scion  

  10. On 10/25/2018 at 12:29 PM, ben yip said:

    Jeff

    I used A1RM before, and charged me $170 per pair, compared with Remsa $55.

    Although A1Rm supports higher temperature, it requires suitable brake fluid to support it. Brake fluid is also very expensive. What brake fluid do you use?

    I havent tracked the car for 6 years now. I am preparing to track 2 years later.

    Winton requires LSD more than Wakefield, as so many continuous long corners. I lost so much time in those corners due to lack of LSD.  I have LSD installed now. You might change the flywheel as well, it significantly improves acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear

    For the brake rotor, I noticed you are using DBA4000, it is much more expensive than stock, not sure whether I really need those rotors. Need your opinion

     

    Hi Ben

    damn ! a1rm for your car is expensive ! ...  i got mine for $120 at brakesdirect... so roughly 60% of the price difference is worth it for me so i can hard brake and not boil the fluid after the 3rd lap

    as for fluid, im using rbf600 at the moment (some motorbike [$32] shops may sell them cheaper than autoparts [$42 -autobarn] shops), back on the previous setups i was using standard dot 3 fluid, it is expensive, but it is what is, you get what you pay for, ive heard some users buy those really high boiling point racing ones for $130-150 a bottle ? 

    wow 6 year break ! good luck and have fun when you get back on !

    as for the rotors no need for dba t3 4000 they are quite expensive (although ive checked the prices now and they've dropped 50% compared to 4 years ago), just look for high carbon content ones (vmax rotors? i think theyre called?) they've been recommended by two track users, ive also considered using these next as the t3's i have right now are lipping, and if i machine them, im scared theyll be too thin for use ofaggressive pads (from previous experience having a1rms on rda rotors will just make the dimpled/slotted discs into a solid looking one lol, obviously not instantly but it helped me decide to skip the dba t2 and go straight onto the t3 series)

     

    Quote

    How is your engine so far, do you plan to rebuild it? or change another car? Your has 31XXXX on the clock, is that right?

    Modify 2AZ-Fe in your car is so popular in USA

    yeah the kms around there ..  blowing smoke, i suspect its the piston rings, its burning oil as i need to top up oil around 1500kms nowadays ... it needs a rebuild haha ! 

    yeah everyone does the 2az there because of the scion xB/tC variants, so if i need to look for engine parts thats what i have to type, so thanks to them , some of the research required or info is there

    as for the LSD, ive found a few helical ones, theyre from the USA, and was quite tedious to track down, as ive just figured out that the 03-08 corolla 2L matrix, shares the same e354 5-peed box, i could also use the scion xB/tC ones as theyre also 5speed same engine, but i need to double check and confirm if the LSD will fit

    the plan is to buy a spare block and build it from bottom end, so some cams maybe some pistons,  also a turbo to slapped on as there are now kits from the USA, specifically Dezod motorsports, that include ECU and map tunes. 

  11. 3 hours ago, ben yip said:

    Congratulations on new PB

    REMSA is good brake pads, I used it for track all the time, and they are cheap

    Any thoughts on this track day you want to share?

    Thanks Ben !

    Thoughts so far:

    • 21°C -22°C   beautiful blue skies and sunny day
    • damn ive missed the whole track experience, the people, the cars and the vibes ... it feels good
    • car felt great !  had the car aligned fronts at -3° camber, (a number which other alignment places couldnt get for some reason ? ) 12 clicks from soft the first two sessions, then 15 clicks from soft on the remainder (i only had -2.5° and -2.4° on previous setups, as to which till now, the setup remains the same) i may try doing 20 clicks in the future (which is 2 from stiff) also with the new exhaust, i can actually hear the car... while rev matching and heel-toe-ing through the track, different and now more fun comparing to driving around quietly previously for years 😛
      • 1st session - lines had air in them, pedal was going through the floor when braking, not what you want after 4 years of coming back - maybe thats why i was scared the whole day LOL ... not to worry, we bled it right after the session(thanks for the help hauhau!) and she bit the first time in the first corner off the pits in the 2nd session
    • 4 years since ive last driven on track, tbh - i was scared .. i havent felt this kind of scared in a long time... a good kind of scared though
    • i was braking around the 75m mark or earlier in some corners [got scared lol], when i know the car has potential to brake around the 25/50m mark or later
    • shouldnt be comparing remsa to a1rm, but what ive found, under hard braking on the 3rd lap remsa looses its bite, considering its 550°C vs 780°C , although for the price; you are correct, it is cheap ($50), cheaper than daily bendix general ct pads actually (i paid $75)... which is interesting since on a spirited run .. the bendix will cook vs the remsa wont
    • i prefer using a1rms, so ive put a set aside a set for other track days, i guess ill be using the remsas on the street as they dont cook like the bendix daily pads,  may also get new rotors, as if i machine the current ones, im afraid  they'll be too thin on the track
    • Its been resurfaced roughly two years ago. (ive been told, although i dont quite remember the old surface)
    • i am now looking for an LSD to fit the gearbox... i feel the car "struggle" on turns 8-10 ... sooo an LSD would be nice 😄
    • would love to go back again soon 😛

    Heres a pic:

    44485709_342480879648061_624861822811792

     

    Quote

    90KW is a bit high in stock in my opinion, provided 112kw at the paper for the flywheel, (around 20% drive chain loss)

    As for the dyno figure, at that time as per mentioned; it is what it is,..

    everything was stock,

    factors to be considered would be:

    its a roller dyno, if i were to use a hub  dyno the reading may have been closer ?

    the dyno could have had high reading ?

    dyno days are also weather dependent to a certain extent, IIRC the day was raining... so it was coolder 

    ive also read that you can "cheat" dynos by not strapping down the car  ?

    is there drivechain loss difference between manual/auto ?

    there are "IN@RR" Modes that can change the readings.

    or more ?

     

     

    Thanks for looking !

    -jeffy

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