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Did you get the clutch changed at a good workshop or one that quoted the lowest.. it may be something misaligned with the clutch/clutch plate. The heavy duty clutch shouldn't *****/shudder unless you're letting the clutch out really/too fast but generally it should be ok. Letting it out too fast shouldn't cause it to shudder anyhow.

Pumped him like a BAWS!

Stick a turbo or chuck in a 4agze/gte in it and the bitch will be fast. Btw Stewby, i have a set of pacemaker or was it genie headers for a 4afe laying around (ae 101 4a-fe too). And bonus they're ceramic coated in black. PM me if you're interested. How about a remus muffler? Some of them sound super horn! Bit exy though but maybe find one second hand?

Why not just remove and spray it black yourself? Or just remove and get it annodised any colour you'd like :) It looks metal from your avatar so wouldn't be an issue.

I'm installing mine soon and it will be either in front or behind the passenger seat. I'm thinking behind the passenger seat so it's outta sight/looks more normal from a quick glance (being a coupe).

Awesome it's arrived! Hiro's intake does not have a box at all and runs on 2.5" piping with a slight crush bend to go down in front of the bumper from memory. I've got two mates currently with civics lol, one purple ek that will be going for a k conversion and an eg going for a b18cr conversion. Good fun little cars.. handles amazingly well on the streets (with a bit of sussy/chassis work though). Puts my toy car to sh!t shame really lol.. Whitestivo, yeah not much performance benefit but there is some and it makes it sound so much better :P Sometimes it's just the modding process that is fun, moreso than the end result haha.

Maybe up in QLD? Not in NSW though i don't think.. my old man got defected on his rolla with a pod where the above pic shows.. then again the cop defected him for a sealed oil catch can system Quite akin to shoot first, ask questions later but hey we've come to expect that from the bad apples in the force hey. OP, let us know when you get the $35 intake, i'm curious hehe. I would daresay modifying the standard airbox will be the best bet. I did that once with one of my previous cars (3mps 1st gen) and cut a ~15cm diameter circle on the bottom part of the box and had cold air directed at it. I also took to the inside of the airbox and removed all the plastic lining and smoothed things over a bit and that made a good noticeable difference (along with the K&N filter). And yeah stock standard looking/sleepers FTW! I only did the rolla because i got too bored and ran outta things to do to the weekender, and even that i try to make it look standard/no bright colours. Btw, hope you don't mind my asking, but was it a hardcore EG? Hiro, did you notice a performance increase with poggy's intake?

Basically, there is a long plastic duct that runs from the bottom of the airbox to the front of the engine bay just behind the passenger headlight. Now halfway along this duct on the bottmo, there is a short length of plastic that connects it to a resonator box a little smaller in size to a 1 litre tin of milo. I cut open the front half of this resonator box, leaving the back half which now acts as a scoop/ram forcing air up back into the intake duct and thus into the airbox. Seems to breathe much better having two intakes and one is forcing air into when the car is moving. Also on the ae112r, there is a bumper plastic trim bit that once removed reveals the resonator box and thus allowing air to go straight onto it. From memory, the ae101 didn't have this option but you can create a scoop under the car that still leads to the resonator box. Still, your short ram intake might be alright, i noticed in the picture it's going to be a 3" pipe with a stepdown reducer at the throttle body. I'm tempted to try one myself, only 35us heh.

Thanks for the link, looks great for the price although you will need to shield the filter otherwise it's just gonna suck hot useless air. I'm using a K&N pod filter so i know the filter is good. I know why it lost low down though and to be honest it was expected knowing i'm removing the air box which like you said has a volume of air stored in it. The lower air velocity will also hurt low and mid range torque..just i didn't quite expect Toyota to have done the airbox for the 7afe so well, to the point where the high end gains from the short ram intake are barely noticeable. Still, i like the sound lol. Currently my short ram intake is partitioned off from the rest of the engine bay (heat) and i've also left the lower half of the factory airbox and modified resonator to give two feeds of cold air onto the bottom of the filter. To be honest, i think the modified stock arrangement is the best go. Prior to my short ram intake, i was running the factory box, pipe and a K&N panel filter. I also cut open the resonator box in front of the passenger wheel (the resonator tee's off the factory intake piping) and that also acted as a secondary/ram intake for when the car was moving forcing air into the intake. Also removed the little resonator near the firewall on the inlet pipe. All of this made it perform a fair bit better on the already good factory arrangement imho. Your AE101 will also have this resonator behind the bumper/front of passenger wheel and from memory it will be black plastic whereas the ae112r's is white plastic. Post up your results once you're done, i'm keen to see how it goes for you! :)

I just did my own short ram intake on my ae112 and it was all kinds of fail for performance =( Lost alot of low and mid range oomph..doesn't really show gains till 4k or maybe even higher. On the upside, the engine sounds really really good though, very throaty and has some bark now...too bad it still needs the bite to go with it lol. Do you mind linking the site in the US you bought the intake from? I wonder if they have anymore parts for the 7afe.

Should've mentioned... Some of the mods listed may be a bit exxy for a younger first time driver. These mods may be skipped/done at a later stage -Replace all bushings (but do replace any torn/buggered ones) -Install front/rear slotted rotors -Rear strut brace (can get away with a front one only) That would bring the total cost to very low especially if you go second parts here and there and do alot of DIY :) Edit - as far as i know the ae101 and ae112 corolla 7afe engines are exactly the same but the ecu tuning is different. The ae112 corolla is about a second faster to 100 than the ae101. Maybe check with a toyota expert as to whether you can plug in an ae112 corolla ecu into yours. If you can, just find a wrecked ae112 corolla and get the ecu. Shouldn't be more than a few hundred at most! Oh and as part of maintenance, when the clutch wears out. Install a sports clutch and lightweight flywheel..

I'm pretty sure recent changes in p plater laws state that any power enhancing mods are illegal regardless of being engineered or not... but in saying that, there are stealth/legal mods that you can do.. Matter of fact... i'm slowly doing 'em to my car now (not a p plater but i'm sort of doing a project tight**** for my daily corolla). I'm not doing all of the below however that's a list that would keep most very busy. So i reckon the below will be able to be done while having 0 problems with the law and pink slips etc. Performance -high flow drop in panel filter eg K&N ~$80 -Manually remove all the muffling inside the air box and the plastic lines that suppress noise, Free -There may a small resonator tee'd off the intake pipe just before the throttle body.. remove and seal, Free -With the ae1xx xafe engine's, part of your intake for the airbox has a large resonator tee'd off from it. The resonator is located behind the front bumper passenger side. Get to the resonator and cut it open. Remove all the plastic lining that suppresses noise once again etc and make sure air gets to where this resonator is. This will be your stealth gimpo CAI. Free -Get some new spark plugs installed, line the open part of the spark plug to the direction the air and fuel is flowing from, ~$20 -Get a set of performance replacement spark leads in black colour, ~$100 -Have a look under the car and take measurements of the cat converter, the mid muffler and end muffler and take note of piping size. Now goto the wreckers and look at cars that flow decent power from factory (think sporty models or big engine cars such as sportivo corolla or v6 commodores). Find components that are roughly the same size etc that are suitable. Having the cat, mid and end muffler replaced from a car that flows more power from factory will give you a gimpo exhaust system - without the added noise (as you don't want anyone to know the car has mods!), ~120 parts. Then take it all to a good exhaust shop and get them to fit it on and ask for a factory look (or even spray the exhaust with galv), $150 -Use 98 octane fuel (it actually works out cheaper per km most times anyways as it allows the car to be more efficient), and rotate the dizzy to advance ignition timing. Best get a performance workshop to do this though. Will pick up a bit of power, ~$150. There is also a simple electrical mod you can do to make a budget air/fuel controller on the car. Details here http://www.4age.net/tech/efimod.htm Will suit when the workshop is setting the ignition advance. -Remove spare from boot (it's a full size spare i think) and tools etc along with false flooring. Replace with a can of emergency tire repair. ~$18 Handling -Get a good set of tires first. On a budget go for kumho ku31, falken fk452. Bit more dough then try bridgestone adrenalins. If you're dead serious about handling, get some s compounds falken rt615, kuhho ku36, advan ad-08 or r compounds (street legal track semi slicks). Bridgestone re11s, toyo r888 etc (tires first because they will help speed off the mark, stopping distance and handling). ~$400-1500 -Matched set of springs/shocks e.g. bilstein/eibach. ~$800-1400 -Set of swaybars from whiteline ~$600 -All bushes replaced ~$600 -Front and rear strut braces ~$400 -Remove more weight if wanted, Free Braking -Flush system and use dot 4 liquid at least, ~$60 -Get slotted rotors front and rear, ~$500 -Street/track pads front and rear, ~$220 All of the above prices are approximates and most include labour. If you can do a bit of DIY you'll save heaps, source second hand parts or bargain on top of DIY and the whole exercise wouldn't cost too much and you'd be getting towards a handling monster with a little pep. Best part is once you're off your Ps, you can ditch the 7afe and drop in a 20valve 4age, 4agze, or build a 7age. Alternatively sell the car stock and sell the mods on forums/ebay to get some money back. Enjoy and GL, they are a great first time car. Fwiw, i learnt driving sportily in an ae101 corolla with a 4afe (1.6L) in auto form. It had intake/exhaust/piggyback/head work, matched springs/shocks/front strut bar, all poly bushing and good tires for the time. Was extremely fun through the bends :)

Thanks Xoom. Yeah i thought the stivo muffler might've had a flow valve that's why i asked in my original post - damn. Doubt it'll be suitable for the 7a then.. with the valve it probably won't provide the flow increase i was after while keeping oem sound levels. Already have a new 4agze cat, thanks for the offer though. Shall look into camry sportivo mufflers or something then cheers. Just picked up a set of genie extractors ceramic coated free , basically gonna do a couple of things to do the daily to spice it up a bit but keeping things super low key/cheap heh.

So no one knows or no one wants to help? Just came across an oem 4agze cat from my old man so that's one thing sorted.

Hey all, After info on the stock zze series sportivo exhaust system if anyone can provide. Specifically want to know the cat size (length and piping roughly), what muffling system is it - mid muffler and rear muffler or mid resonator/hot dog and end muffler. Also need to know the piping size and lastly if there is a valve in the stock muffler that opens/closes depending on gas flow? Looking to adapt the components on a 7afe corolla.. the components being able to flow 141kw should easily keep up with a 7afe lol, and it won't be loud at all too (well hopefully). Cheers.

For a couple hundred more, maybe try and get something better? BC Racing and HSD come to mind. Seen photos of d2s breaking from track usage (but no breakages from street use). HSD's have been track tested well and BC racing too (plenty of yankees running the BR series for circuit/auto x work which are likened to tein flex or was it mono flex levels).

/barf.. After owning a high powered fwd..i would never get another one. It is DAMN frustrating trying to get traction in 1st/2nd.. just wanna get moving damnit, not stand there spinning the fronts. Spinning rears on the other hand... well that's just fun. Nothing like good rwd squirming under power trying to get/lose traction. I do kinda like the aggresive styling though...but must be bought in black.

V35 Skyline 350GT... Around 24k now, tick. High to mid 50,000kms, tick. Rated fuel economy, tick. Features, tick. Power, tick. Room, well you CAN get the sedan and it will be even cheaper, but the coupe has decent room too, tick. Here was my old one...plenty of attention but none of the bad either :) Had it modded to 245kw at engine (185rwkw), handled brilliant for size (had uprated shocks/springs and whiteline f/r swaybars), and stopped ok with factory option brembos. An aurion actually tried to test me too, they failed :P

Castrol VMX-80 in the gearbox and nulon additive too...good shiz. Made my gearbox shift ok at cold start and the box has over 200,000 kms of spirited and track driving on it (it's an rb25 box - known for cold shift issues too). Heard redline is good too but there's something about it being more of a band-aid fix..some info on sau from memory. Sorry no idea on the rev issue though, not familiar with the 2zz.

Great thanks Hiro! Yeah read the 7afe have knock sensors though mine might not be working..after knocking from WOT, if i go WOT again after it still knocks..it should be modern enough that when it knocks it will run rich and retard timing. Cheers for the diagnostic location..i would've been getting angry trying to look for an obd port in cabin bah! I'll check it out when i get a lazy weekend though i must admit..if i can use 98 and get away with no knocking i'd rather leave it as the car is so nice to drive in it's current form lol.

Normally 91 or 91 E10 Hiro.. i tried 95 a couple of days ago and there is still knocking however i think less. I shall try a full tank of 98 next week and see how that goes hrmm. Hmm checking timing might be good actually...the car is abnormally fast and punchy (and that's without considering it doens't have vvti or vvtli).. Maybe it's all too advanced. I'll check diagnostics on a lazy weekend. Would you have a handy guide for the ae112 7afe diagnostics mode or is the car plug in consult only?

Forgot to mention it's not massive detonation but not light either as i can hear it happening but quite faintly.. anyways, not the kind of stuff that will blow my motor tomorrow. My previous weekender probably the same level of detonation but at a low rpm range on lightish throttle due to factory maps being too aggressive (being an import, the crappy fuel we have here didn't help either) and that car survived for over a year till i got the ecu reflashed to get rid of it and gain some top end and the engine was still healthy enough to put down really good power compared to others (of the same model/engine).

Heya all, Just wondering if any 7a-fe owners have experienced any form of ping/knock/detonation on their stock motors on stock ecu ? Since i purchased my ae111 manual, i've noticed when i give it between 70-100% throttle at the upper rpm's the engine will encounter a bit of knocking/detonation. I know this as i can hear it. Far as i know, my car is stock with only the addition of a K&N panel filter. It's a manual not that that should affect anything. I can't understand why a basically stock car will be knocking with standard factory maps.. the only things i could think of is either a really blocked up fuel filter (but the car starts easily cold/hot) or a failing fuel pump causing lean outs.. but i've never heard of a toyota with a failed fuel pump. The car being a daily will unlikely have blocked injectors either methinks. Hrmmmm...Have a spare emanage ultimate laying around but really don't wanna tamper with the daily if i can avoid it (you guys know how it goes, it only takes one mod...) Any ideas/previous experiences?

Bigger injectors, fuel pump/s, tunable ecu, bigger turbo if you're near the max of your current one.. I was gonna do it to my car but my mechanic talked me out of it. He said it turns to sugar if not used for awhile, all the lines etc need replacing to stuff that can stand ethanol.. Turning to sugar put me off it as the car doesn't get driven much.

For mostly street use, i would stay away from r compound and go s compound...sort of a semi slick for streets. The ku36 mentioned is a s compound tire and comes at a very affordable price if you shop around. Two other s compounds off the top of my head are advan neova ad-08's and falken's rt615. In terms of traction, they are kinda in between a UHP street tire and an r compound semi slick. They will still need to be warmed up for fun, and generally aren't fantastic in the wet. Treadwear is acceptable if you're not a tight****. I've gone through a set of falken rt615's and bridgestone re-01r's personally and think s compound is about right for street and mountain runs. Just keep in mind s and r compounds have a higher traction threshold then give way much quicker than street tires so you'll be gripping gripping gripping understeering much quicker. My personal preference is still street tires because i love feedback and hanging on the limits but i'm looking at some s compounds for my weekender as well. I'm thinking of settling for the ku36's to try them out. S compounds also aren't noisy like r compounds are and warm up quicker mhmm. Oh and the mentioned re55s have been replaced by re11s.