Audio115

That i can solve instantly, my boot seal came off, just realised how when i was putting my boards in tho boot just now (:

UPDATE: So i've been pretty bust getting everything together for my annual trip to japan which involves drive 800ks from Mackay to Cairns. this afternoon i pulled my amp and subs out of my boot cleaned it all up and made room for my snowboard bags and while i was there i thought i'd have a look at the Trailer plug module i have in my boot, and it's a good thing i did! i turns out that in all the heavy rain we've been having in Mackay lately, largely due to ExTc Dylan my boot flooded, submerging the trailer plug module and thus bridging the light circuit. Upon unplugging the module the lights switched off (: soooo happy right meow! I'd like to say thanks to RoadRunner who offered his help in the matter, Cheers Bud! THIS ISSUE IS NOW RESOLVED.

Thanks for the reply, I just Disconnected the negative battery terminal, Replaced the Relay that controls the circuit. In hopes that it might have been the circuit not closing properly. No Biscuits. Will try the ECU Fuse. Now i'm lost on general trouble shooting ideas, I'm pretty happy i just put a new battery in and all the lights that are on are LED's, except the front parkers, hopefully this wont drain the battery too fast... I don't really have the money to book it in to Toyota to get it looked at properly, so i'm considering either installing a Battery Isolator in the cabin, isolating the battery every time i shut down my car and locking it with the keys (if that will even work?). Other things i've considered is it may be the Combination switch or circuit damage within the stalk, although it still works to control the main headlights, High beams and indicators...

So i get woken up by my Mother-in-Law-To-Be at 5:30 this morning to notify me that i've left my lights on This is strange seeing as i always leave the lights set to AUTO and i know the Aurion Deactivates the lighting circuit when the Drivers side door is opened after the engine shuts down. Upon Closer inspection I notice that its only the parking lights (Front, Rear & Number Plate Lights are on) It may also be important to note that the green Headlight Indicator on the dash does not show that the lights are on. Has anyone else encountered this issue? My Car is a 2006 Aurion AT-X with fog lights and a tow pack (I mention this because both are integrated into the lighting circuit for reference, but the fog lights have a separate dash mounted switch.) Things I've considered/Tried; The Light switch is functional, it still controls head lights, I just cant switch off the parkers, regardless of position. Also you can hear a Clicking sound coming from the Glovebox which i can only assume is the Relay Activating (I normally have music on when i drive so i've never really noticed it before) The Drivers Side door switch still works fine, when you press it in the doors puddle lights deactivate. - No Success I've tried to re-adjust the Steering wheel position, both in Rotational position & Tilt + Reach - No Success I have also tried to leave a light source (Iphone Torch) over the Light Sensor located in the centre of the dash just by the windscreen - No Success At the present moment i haven't pulled apart my boot trim to access the Trailer Lighting Module nor have i tried to access the Fuse Boxes. It might be important to note that i also went for a quick spin around the block with the headlights in the ON position, pulled up, shutdown the engine, opened the door and Voila the lights were off. Then clever old me tries to replicate the situation and BOOM-- It's Back again!

I am assuming that you have a Pre facelift, GSV40R aurion 06-09. The common cause for the dash rattles, that I believe everyone has had at one point is generally the areas that the dash piece clips to the dash, and around the ac vents. To rectify the issue I grabbed the service manuals located in the aurion FAQ, ducked down to the local spotlight (or whatever fabric store you have nearby) and purchased some 3M double tape and 1msqr of felt fabric. I then cut the felt up and wrapped it around the clips to insulate them. I then used the felt on one side of the tape and stuck it to the underside of the dash piece where it meets up with other areas under the dash. Then I doubled over the felt and glued it around the ac vents. This managed to quiet my dash to the point now where I'd say its making less noise than standard. I'm not sure if the areas around the tweeter pods need to be done as I dynamatted them earlier

I am assuming that you have a Pre facelift, GSV40R aurion 06-09. The common cause for the dash rattles, that I believe everyone has had at one point is generally the areas that the dash piece clips to the dash, and around the ac vents. To rectify the issue I grabbed the service manuals located in the aurion FAQ, ducked down to the local spotlight (or whatever fabric store you have nearby) and purchased some 3M double tape and 1msqr of felt fabric. I then cut the felt up and wrapped it around the clips to insulate them. I then used the felt on one side of the tape and stuck it to the underside of the dash piece where it meets up with other areas under the dash. Then I doubled over the felt and glued it around the ac vents. This managed to quiet my dash to the point now where I'd say its making less noise than standard. I'm not sure if the areas around the tweeter pods need to be done as I dynamatted them earlier

The side impact airbag is located in the seat and the curtain airbag is located above the B pillar and extends from the bottom of the A pillar to the base of the C pillar in an arc along the roofline, if you were to have a look yourself you won't damage anything and the belt roller is on the floor

It sounds odd to me that Toyota would consider a dual voice coil speaker two seperate speakers... Not to mention why the car would have speakers predominately down one side of the car and not the other... I understand that this would make the sound in the drivers seat no different but the rest of the seats in the car should be a noticeable difference in sound timings. Can you locate the factory subwoofer? And if not can you verify it's existance by isolating the lower frequencies in your head unit? Sounds like you might have gotten screwed around mate :/

Mate absolutely love the car she's gorgeous!!!! Lovin' all the photos you chuck up on Facebook! Looking to bag my presara when I pick it up

Because the amp is collecting quite a lot of dust and cant be cleaned without removing the entire seat - which i dont have time to do often and given the size of the amplifier there isnt enough ventilation to keep it cool so it enters protection on a good 30 degree day, and we've had quite a few of those recently

Hey guys its been 6 months since i updated the info on my ride; not a lot has been happening but might as well keep you guys up to speed... after buying two separate sets of fog & HID lights off eBay - all of wich were DOA i decided that fog lights and HIDs can wait till a later date Actual Changes Multimedia: • Amplifier moved under passenger seat (Regretting that **** BIGTIME!!!!) • New 8" Touch screen Head unit with Bluetooth,TV And GPS installed • 500W Continuous power AC inverter installed • Playstation 3 Unit installed (Planning to fibreglass it into the tray part of the Parcel shelf) • ICELED 1Foot 2.2Million colour led tube installed in boot • ICELED ZAP+ Controller Multimedia Plans: • I received a Brand new Soundstream TX 1.2000D Monoblock amplifier • Waiting for cash flow to allow me to buy T6 Tarantula 15" subwoofers X2 • Create Leather Wrapped Fibreglass door Partials Misc: • Added a Couple of Stickers and other random visual aspects

^This man I owe you a beer! :D I had no luck on my searches over the last week and you find it practically immediately Thanks heaps

Thanks, but I should specify; I was looking at going from a GSV40R to a GSV40R not to a facelift or a GSV50R, to my knowledge the 2012 presara has quite a few moar goodies over the old one...

Unfortunately I don't have my car at the moment to check, but that would seem like a fairly obvious point, if it is I'm terribly sorry for a stupid post :/

Hey guys I really need some serious information on the specs difference between the atx and the presara as I will be upgrading to a presara in the coming months, regardless but there are a few things I'd like to know; What are the actual differences in features, I know the obvious stuff like sunroof, push to start, smart key and electric seats. I'd love to know more about the privacy shade, stereo (especially in terms of Toyota link, Bluetooth functionality and upgrade ability) head lights (levelling and swivelling), mirrors (folding,puddle lights?) and any other interesting features I am also aware that the performance is the same (basically) and they come with 17" alloys Any help would be greatly appreciated If this is a repost I'm sorry I've done countless searches to no avail.

There's a grommet that you can easily run your positive wire through, I've got 2 Zero gauge wires run to a buzz bar in the boot, which has 2 capcells hooked up to it. It then runs the positive on my amplifiers and my fosgate Three.sixty.3. I then grounded my second (Negative) buzz bar off my rear strut towers with 3 zero gauge wires, which also connect to the negatives of my capcells and my amplifiers. Then I built a shielded tube to run all 5 sets of RCA cables through, which passes under my cabin.

Shouldn't be any hassles, maybe make up an inline fuse as close to each light as possible, obviously on the 12v side of the ballast... I know people who run 600w rms through 16g wiring for audio so 55w shouldn't be that bad

Yeah the plan is high spl, for daily driving I've organised a set of 10" 800w rms subs for tighter cleaner bass, being my daily driver I would like be have a 100% guarantee of not getting stuck without enough power to get going again - sounds retarded I know.

So just as a little update for those who might be wondering, I've contacted a company in the US know as mechman who are famous for their audio products, and am currently negotiating a quote for a custom 2GR-FE bolt on 400 amp alternator to be custom made, I have provided them with a list of cars which use the same engine, particularly the GSV40 Camry and the Venza. Hopefully if others are interested a multi buy might be able to be established

Hopefully not too much damage haha, I'm thinking if I can provide more than neccessary than I won't have issues with heating and what not

I have a unit in my boot that I have photos of that might be the exact thing you're looking for, will upload tomorrow

I'm interested to see how this all ended up, I'm building my aurion up for audio competitions, just ordered 2 dual voice coil 1kw rms 15" subs, 8 6x9s, 6 tweeters and a few other screens, LEDs, cooling fans - all the fun stuff. Looking at approximately 6000w total rms. I've already done the big three, run 1/0 AWG wires everywhere, I've ordered 2 soundstream 1000amp (purge) capcells, 2 20 farad capacitors, and 3 optima yellow top batteries and made up copper bus bars... Now I know this seems like a fairly limited amount of information but should I look at an additional or replacement alternator, yes I am planning on running this thing loud as hell for long periods of time. I've figured that running off approximately 14.4v at 6000wrms I'll need approximately 580-600 amps if I'm to run solely off the alternator. I arrive at this because your car needs around 40% so; (1.4*6000)/14.4=583.3333• I would like to spend the extra and have the security of not frying a few thousands worth of high end gear

So a few of the chrome door handle covers blew off today :s gone back to stock for now New swag: silver reflective film to wrap mirrors in

Wow dude they look awesome! Been looking at a lot of your mods lately with jealous eyes!

I purchased the mars ones, good quality but the description lies