Anubis

Thans for that. I'm working on the fire extinguisher bracket I have a couple of questions: 1. What is the difference between booster cables 200amp and 400amp surge protected cables from Kmart? Should I go for the 400amp one just in case? I have NRMA roadside assistance, so do I really need these cables? 2. I need to buy window sun shades. I checked carshades.com.au and they have pretty cool ones but very expensive $275. Anything you are afar of that is similar but cheaper?

Thanks, I like it. Brilliant Can you give me more details how can I make something similar?

I ended up changing the battery with a free maintenance battery from NRMA 3 years warranty at $150. Not sure if this is a reasonable price or a rip-off given that he got the old battery. I have done the flush of the brake fluid finally and braking seems to be fine :) I have a question regarding the best place for the fire extinguisher. Under the driver seat, there is a plastic cover for the VIN of the car namely "Frame No.". If you remove this plastic cover you will see the VIN as well as two rectangle holes in the frame of the car. The distance between the 2 holes is 19cm and the hole width is 2cm by 8mm. Can I use these two holes to mount th fire extinguisher safely? If yes, is there any mounting kit where easily I can install and stick the extinguisher to? What is your recommendation for the best place to install the fire extinguisher?

Haha :) I will try not to. I will let you know how it went. Today, I tried to start the car but I couldn't. It was obvious it was the battery. Called NRMA and they guy came and jump start it but he told me the battery needs to be replaced and he confirmed that once I stop it, it won't start again. Also he added that they do battery replacement service at $134. Out of the discussion I felt he is trying to sell the battery rep service to me. I left home and tried to restart the car it was okay. I wanna make sure that the battery doesn't need to replaced. What tester should I use and what is the procedure?

Just inspected the rear break pads and they don't need to be replaced, still about 6mm of it. Once it gets down to 2mm , I will replace them. I will be working on flushing brake fluid. I will be using two bottles of Toyota brake fluid 500ml each and one man job brake bleeder kit. Any tips for flushing brake fluid?

I'm working on replacing the rear brake pads. I did a check and it seems to be different the the front brake pads in-terms f assembly I think I should be removing the 2bolts for the 2 slide pins, release hand brake then ??? Then remove the caliper What else I need to remove to get the parking cable out of the way? Any ideas?

I don't have any issues any more. I did the bed-in and all good now I wanna work on the rear brake pads. The dealer will charge me $85 for them. Can I get it somewhere else cheaper than that.? But I need toyota genuine one. Do you have ZRE workshop manual.? Next I will replace rear brake pads and flush the brake fluid hopefully it goes okay :)

Thanks, i have done the below and it works fine now: not sure if the below is what you mean by bed em in or not:. It could be also because I drove it then parked then drove again. Not sure INSPECT BRAKE BOOSTER (a) Check the air tightness. (1) Start the engine and stop it after 1 or 2 minutes. Depress the brake pedal several times slowly. HINT: • If the pedal can be depressed to the floor on the 1st time, but cannot be depressed as far on the 2nd or 3rd times, the booster is airtight. If not, inspect the vacuum check valve. • If the vacuum check valve is normal, replace the brake booster assembly. (2) Depress the brake pedal while the engine is running, and stop the engine with the pedal depressed. HINT: • If there is no change in the pedal reserve distance after holding the pedal for 30 seconds, the booster is airtight. If not, inspect the vacuum check valve. • If the vacuum check valve is normal, replace the brake booster assembly. I will continue testing fo a few days and if no issues, I will try to post a procedure to share. Do you ZRE 2008 workshop manual? I' m currently using Yaris workshop manual (the American version). Not quite accurate but better than nothing

Hey Guys, Just replaced the front brake pads in my Toyota corolla but I didn't bleed brake system after that. Tested the car and I found that it brakes slowly. Is that because I didn't bleed brake system? Or it could because the piston to stuck after I compressed it to accommodate the new pads. Any ideas to diagnose will be appreciated. Cheers, Anubis

i have done it twice, costs $80 each time.. but I think you might need to check your pad first.. check youtube for DIY, you need a bleeding kit.. ZRE needs 1 Litre of fluid Check the pads first? to see if they need replacement? what about the sequence of doing it for Corolla 2008? is it 1. Rear Right 2. Front Left 3. Rear Left 4. Front Right ?? do you have a procedure handy? which method did you use? Gravity or Pressure? can you give me more details.

Thanks ohy34h, Mobile mechanic is a great idea if he really knows what he is doing. One of my friends got one and it was not the best idea ever but if you know him that's fine. I just need a quote and details about the method he will use to flush the brake fluid.

Thanks -prozak, Can I have the name and contact for your dealership. Also if you know, which method is used to flush the brake fluid? 2-man-job, 1-man-job with a tool (pressure, vacuum or ??)

Hey guys, I have a Toyota corolla ascent 2008. I need to flush the brake fluid. I bought genuine Toyota brake fluid and I'm thinking of doing it by myself or give to a mechanic to do it for me. If I do it myself I need to know the best way to do it with tools and steps and whether there is a garage that I can hire for an hour or two to do it. If I'm to give it to a mechanic I need to know how much it will cost given that I will provide the brake fluid. Also if you know a good mechanic around Sydney cbd or meadowbank Cheers, Ramses