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Hi jb, If you've had the ecu and transmission overhauled it shouldn't be gutless, could be something else ? If it is transmission related there should be warranty from the time it got fixed? I've heard of some people only having to pay for the labour part of the fix and Toyota pays for parts. But that was because they had full service history with Toyota. realistically it's a 10+ year old car, chances of havin a full service history with Toyota is very unluckily

Hi guys, If you have a RAV4 with transmission issues its the ecu that's the culprit. Don't go changing the transmission oil and strainer/filter thinking it'll rectify the problem, save that for when you hange out the ECU. Some sites will tell you to just change the ECU and it'll fix the problem, that's not always the case, if the transmission is slipping and thumping into gears and you keep driving it anyway , it will damage the transmission and changing the ECU alone won't fix it. If you guys need help or advice, Don't be shy , I'm more than happy to help. I'm a Fully trained and qualified Toyota technician. We fix these cars and problems on a daily basis.

Still got the tires for sale? Location?

You COULD bring it to terry shields toyota... we have excellent mechanics and a couple of them are master technicians. We're also open on Saturdays till midday, we're just off parramatta road Granville.

Hi guys, sorry to hear about your transmission problems. All I can say is if it starts to play up I reccommend taking it to toyota or a transmission builder right away. The longer you leave the problem the worse it'll get and the more expensive it'll be. I'm offering my services to replace the ecu/ecm and burnt out parts. I work at the only Toyota dealership in NSW that repairs and rebuilds transmission and I'm one of the few that overhauls and do the repairs. For a partial overhaul + ecu it'll cost you $1500. For a full overhaul + ecu it'll cost $2600. Both prices includes labour, parts and key reprogramming. Down time for partial over haul is over night. Down time for full overhaul is 3 days. You can contact me on 0424 169 699 or kauvchap@hotmail.com if you have any questions regarding your toyota vehicles. Thanks

Hi guys I myself have done over 10 or more of them. There's about 12 of us all together that takes care of them when they come in. We've all done around the same amount, I'm not too sure how many the other shops do but when you look at the big picture its not that many. I know it's also common with the Lexus rx350 and IS250s. I can't give you an approximate price. I know the kit is at least around the $500 mark. The kit consists of two intake vvti controllers, rocker cover gaskets and a complete set of washers, oil seals and o rings to cover the whole job. I would say around 2-3k mark for the entire job. If left unattended the controllers will fail which means non working vvti which will make the engine run really rough and poor performance and the noise will be permanent. The new revised units have two extra oil holes as well. We've never had any of the cars come back after they've been repaired. As for the km's it's all random. I've seen cars come in with the problem with only 50xxx km to 100xxx km.

Hi guys, That noise your hearing on your cars are what we refer to as " vvti rattle". It doesn't happen to all 2GR motors. With the ones that has that problem we simply drop the motor and replace both intake vvti controllers with a revised unit. I've only ever replaced them under warranty but I'd imagine it would be quite costly to do as a retail job since the motor has to come out. Hope that helps guys

Hi ebok, Clutches arent warranted because it's a wear and tear item like tires. It gradually wear out each time you drive. I've never seen any problems with intermediate shafts but it's not impossible. Hope that helps

Hi, You need to buy the new ecu or it'll get worse to the point of no drive at all and full transmission will also be required. By the way, has it always been serviced by Toyota? If it has and you have log books to prove, Toyota warranty should apply.

Hi mate if it's front seal and it's the older kluger you'd have to pull out timing belt and other belts to access it. If its rear seal gear box removal is part of it. If its new kluger they don't use timing belt but it's still a load of work for people who aren't in the trade. If its rear seal then gesr box removal is inevitable. If you can remove and refit gear box your self then it isn't a big task. If its too much work than leave it to a professional like my self.

It differs with each car. Sometimes it's quick sometimes it's gradual. It isn't recommended to use thicker ATF. The new klugers and rave uses 2WS ATF oil which is fully synthetic. If you were to go backwards to something thicker it would be T4 ATF oil. We dont practice that at work so I really dont recommend anyone else to do it either as you could do more damage.

Good work! Wish I had the time to do the same to mine. But ! I did a engine conversion on mine. What conversion I hear you say?! I got a 3sgte from a caldina and dropped it in. It's the same engine but with better package. Coil packs instead of dizzy. Uprated power, 190kw standard apparently. Less laggy turbo and blah blah blah. Did it at home. Took a couple of weeks to sought out the wiring. Now its a dream to drive. If you ever consider doing a conversion I highly recommend the caldina engine. Good luck with it and keep us updated.

You should get some carny cleaner , light sand paper and some rags. Spray the carby cleaner into the throttle body and clean thoroughly. Rip up the sanding paper and place it at top of butterfly in throttle body and move the butterfly up and down so that it sands where the butterfly makes contact with the top of the throttle body.repeat on the bottom. With the IAC put a nozzle on the carby cleaner and spray a good amount where the hole is in front of the butterfly. That should fix it permanently

Hi Do you lose coolant? Has anyone pressure tested the system? Also has anyone checked if the thermo fan comes on?

Hi mick By any chance is it a blueish Kluger? Front wheel drive? If it is then it looks like ive got the job.

Hi, it's really hard to diagnose from hearing it on YouTube. You should take it to your nearest mechanic or dealership for them to inspect. When the noise is apparent does it affect anything?does it drive normal? When you turn the steering does it go away? If you turn Ac on or off does it affect it? Like I said it's really hard to pin point the problem. We get the usual "vvti rattle" but I've only seen that on the v6 engines, haven't yet come across one on a 4 cylinder.

Hi, it's really hard to diagnose from hearing it on YouTube. You should take it to your nearest mechanic or dealership for them to inspect. When the noise is apparent does it affect anything?does it drive normal? When you turn the steering does it go away? If you turn Ac on or off does it affect it? Like I said it's really hard to pin point the problem. We get the usual "vvti rattle" but I've only seen that on the v6 engines, haven't yet come across one on a 4 cylinder.

Yes we do change the transaxle fluid. Before removal the fluid has to be drained or it will leak when drive shafts are removed which makes it really messy. We also top up/ change the transfer oil.

To be precise it's the crown wheel, pinion gear, diff bearings and shims that gets work done to It. We replace all the above mentioned parts and redo the preload to a desired amount. The whine occurs due to inadequate preload which leads to the other parts being prematurely worn.

Hi, What makes you say it's a bearing noise? Like bisdake mentioned, is it a "whine" noise at certain speeds? 40-60 kph 60-80 kph? Or is it all the time ? If you could elaborate I'd be happy to help.

Hi bisdake, The whine will persist or get worse until you take it to get repaired. Funny enough I'm working on a Kluger with a diff whine at work today. Chances are its most likely owned by someone from this forum =]

Hi guys, what you describing is definitely a VVT-I rattle. Only happens on " cold start " which is why the technicians can't replicate the issue. Best way is to leave it over night and start it up in the morning and you'll definitely hear it. I suggest you leave the car over night at a dealership and tell them to check for noise first thing in the morning. I'm a Toyota technician and I repair many of these vvti rattles. If your vehicle is still under warranty I highly recommend you take this to your nearest dealership ASAP for repairs.

Hi I hope you rectified the problem with your rav4. If not the only thing I can offer is my services. If your car has service history up to date it will be covered under warranty ( must be up to date and serviced by Toyota till current). If not I can offer to repair this problem. You will need a new ecu and some work done to the transmission. Costs vary depending on damage to the transmission. But my prices are fair compared to dealers charging 2k plus.

Hey guys I work for a Toyota dealership so I can explain the price. For 80k service its pretty expensive, especially 4wd vehicles. These are the things that gets changed Oil Oil filter Fuel filter Spark plugs Air filter Possible brake fluid Diff oil Transfer oil Rotate and balance And general inspection It's a lot of work to do and all the costs are calculated at dealership hourly rates which vary from one place to another. If you guys want to do it cheaper I'd approach other work shops or you could always contact me =p Hope that helps.