SATORI893

You may have earthed out something in the centre console while inserting the new bulb. Does the bulb you replaced work? Where you changing the bulg to LED? If it was an LED they have to be put in the right way pos/neg or they will blow fuses. If it was a standard bulb then my guess would be 'earthed out', if LED I would look at fuses or even the LED itself may be faulty. Or those lights are on the same circuit and the bulbs have all blown, not sure how to replace or check them.

Have you tried a combination of unplugging that control unit , each plug then both and seeing if you get power at the mirrors or the adjustment control, worth a try, maybe it you unplug it the mirrors may work but not if the mirrors controls for the glass go through it but who can say. You said the new mirrors matched up to the original plugs so maybe the tilt function is going into the new mirrors on the incorrect pins on the connector. The unit could be getting a signal that the mirrors are tilted or up and the unit may have a 'shut off' function to protect the motors in the miiror assembly, That's another theory.

Your problem is definately to do with that mirror control box, does the cover come off it? It may have it's own fuse inside though you'd think it would be on the outside. Maybe something in that unit has burnt out somehow. If it was me I would be taking the cover off the box (if you can) and having a look inside to see if anything has happened. You may need to bypass that unit for the new mirrors to work, if that is possible. I can only imagine how much that controller is integrated into the mirrors whole system.

Is it possible a fuse is faulty, it may have a crack in the fuse that is too small to see or may have burnt out a part of the fuse that is hidden by the plastic. With a multimeter check the continuity accross each fuse. Just a thought. Have you tested the mirrors to see if they work by hooking them up to a battery or a bench top power supply if you have one. Just to make sure the mirrors do work, test the folding of them also. At least that will rule them out as having a problem that may be causing your loss of power.

I think you are right with the turn signal wires, but on mine Passenger side is BLACK + AND WHITE/BLACK NEG

Driver side is GREEN + AND WHITE/BLACK NEG

I wrote the wire combos down when I did mine, I hope wire colour didn't change from model to model but in my car the wire functions are like this

Passenger side

Mirror up = green +/ brown (neg)

Mirror down = brown +/ green (neg)

Mirror left(out I think) pink +/ brown (neg)

Mirror right(in I think) brown +/ pink Neg

Driver side

Mirror up = pink +/ brown (neg)

Mirror down = brown +/ light green (neg)

Mirror left(in I think) light green +/ brown (neg)

Mirror right(out I think) brown +/ pink (neg)

I say I think because I wrote it as mirror left or right in my note but it means the direction of the tilt I am pretty sure, was a long time ago that I did it.

Hope that helps.

Does the car still start and run? If it does the ecu should be ok.

Maybe check the fuses for the Hazard system, they could be all tied in somehow because of the indicators being in the mirrors. I looked in my fuse box, did you try the one labelled 'SHORT',? If you have that one in your model, in the engine bay fuse box. What about the relays? Maybe one has burnt out or stuck open. Don't relays sometimes reset when you remove them? Can't hurt to pull them out and check them for any burn marks or signs of failure? Must be frustrating.

If the fuses have the pins exposed on the top (either side of the rating number) you maybe able to test for power by making contact with that part without removing them. Not all brands of fuses have that exposed (silver) on there tops it if they do it will save time.

You should be getting a 12volt, do you have just acc on or the key turned to ign?

So you did have to cut away part of the sunny pocket, the cut is so neat it looks factory.

Great install, mine has a different sunny holder to your Prodigy, mine curves up at the bottom more to hold the sunnies in place so I would have to cut a fair bit away to see the screen if I place it in like you have done. I tried my gps in mine and the bottom 1/4 of the screen is abstructed by the 'cups' for the lenses to sit in on my car. Love you door pocket lights and the rear steplights in the centre console. Looks great.

Not sure on the type of feed. On mine through the bluetooth I can't make a call(dial out) until the car is stopped, my screen has the label for the buttons on the side of them but they are faded when the car is moving and they dont highlight till the car stops, so it must be connected to a speed sensor. It's only when I try to dial out through the phone book I programmed into the factory head unit or even if I want to select a number from the call log I can't access it till the car is stopped.

I am not sure if this will help but the I noticed on a pic in the thread 'A must for TRD owners, Front view cam, if you have a factory head unit which I forgot to check if you do but one of the pics shows a wire labelled Satnav/speed sensor, I am guessing if you don't have the factory head unit, you could look at the stereo wiring as the gps, or in my case phone/bluetooth functions dont work until the car is stopped, that may be a way to achieve what you are looking to do.

What happens if you lock the doors with the acc on?

Does it work with the switch or just the remote?

Never wondered about that, the module must have that built in, if acc is on and I lock the doors with the central locking switch the mirrors are unaffected, maybe the power from the acc overrides the pulse from the the door lock.

Yeah that's right, I forgot I had to run a wire from the central locking actuator's postiive to the folding module, this signalled the mirrors to fold back on locking the car. not sure where you module gets it's fold and unfold signals from, mine fold out on Acc 'on' and fold in when I lock the doors by key or remote, they get a pulse from the actuator in my case.

Sorry ipad was taking ages to refresh.

As said by satori893 check at the plug coming out of the door that you plug the mirror into and if no power there, check the switch panel, have you got power into the switch panel?

How ever, if they still both aren't working you may either need to plug in the original again some times (as with the hazard lights) both plugs need to be in so it works.

Actually for the mirrors to fold together they will need be connected somehow like the hazzard lights, I had to run wires from my folding module to both mirrors in each door, because the folding function is not standard you may need to run extra wires for this from the module. Don't give up, I found it a complete pain in the rear when installing mine, many nights drawing diagrams and racking my brain over how to get it to all work but that is the fun of modifying and adding aftermarket stuff. The end result will be worth it.

At the plug in the door a multimeter is better but a test light will tell you which wire gets a positve power, a multimeter contacting 2 of the wires in the plug with tell you which is positve and negative for each function. Keeping in mind, when I did mine, the positive and negative can change depending on what function is pressed on the control until, for some functions a wire can be negative for some then positive for another. The pairing of the wires will vary from function to function (by function I mean up/down/in/out)

When you say is there power to the plug, are you referring to the mirror control switch or the actual plug to which the mirror connect in the door trim. If it is the latter, how do I best test for power when I am not sure which wire is which??

Thank you again for your advice so far btw

Both, test for power at the mirror plug in the door, if nothing, then the swtch/control, if no power there then it has to be a fuse somewhere. Just work your way back down the circuit.

The miirrors you bought are much better than mine, I got them from some site in Taiwan, can't remember which, the folding module did not work, no wiring diagram in clear english came with it and communitcation with the seller after the sale was poor indeed, i ended up getting a new folding module from ebay. As for the fuses, it may be easier to take them all out 1 by 1 and check them, you never know what has blown, if there is no power at the mirror control switch then there is definately a fuse blown somewhere. Can you bench test the mirrors using a 12v power source to test all functions? Both fold and adjust. The ones I got were for a left hand drive Camry and the plugs didn't even match the car, I had to test each wire to see what combination was for each function (ie. mirror in/out/up/down) and fold, you never know what minor variations a foreign model might have. Also the plug could have the pins in the wrong order for your car. Can you pop out the pins in the new mirror's plug and swap them around? this may be the solution, I had to cut the plug off that came with my mirrors and match them to the one in my car, but some automotive plugs allow for pins/wires to be changed around. Hope that helps.

Do you have a test light or multimeter? Check you are getting power at the plug, then see if you are getting power on the mirror side of the plug. If there is no power there start working back to the mirror controls, you may have blown a fuse on the acc (accessories) or ign which is stopping power to the mirrors. Sometimes the fuse marked Mirrors is only the first fuse in the circuit. A fuse may have blown further back. Been a while since I installed mine so my memory is a bit vague but hope that may help you somewhat.

Hope the Corona turned out ok, I read an article years ago in Fast Four magazine, they rebuilt a 1976 Celica liftback/fastback, they spent 30 grand on it, their closing arguement was, you could buy a new Celica for the same amount but the one they had build would out-run, out-corner and looked better than the new model. Better sound, interior and features. I guess in the end you would have the car you love with eveything in it you would want and it would be custom. I paid $35,000 for my Aurion new, yet there is still heaps I spent on it to make it close to individual. If I had spent that on my Corona or my Celica, it would be a one of kind, with more custom features and more perfomance. And the addition of better reliability, new cars don't have much of a shelf life, you do a custom build up and you know everything that went into it, and you can work on it yourself. Some of the mods I did to the Aurion were pushing to void the new car warranty, if I waited the 2 years to run out I probably would not have bothered. I can see it from both sides, I had a new car with a warranty but I had to spend more to make it stand out, even so, older car get noticed more.

Cheers.

Hi Seb, In my Celica I always wanted to put the 22RE, my father had a Hilux with the 2.7l, the gearbox was similar (W56 code number I think), I often thought that would be a good motor though not sure if it is more of or torque motor, but twin cam 16 valve efi, didn't look into it much more & now there may be heaps more options. With the one you are looking at, from memory if the shift pattern on the gearbox has reverse by pushing down on the shifter and sliding it up to the left ttowards the glovebox along side 1st gear, that is a Corona box that are not good on performance, if reverse is down and back towards you it is most likely the same box as the Celica. On the build plate in the engine bay if the transmission is a W55 or 57 then it is definately an alloy case Celica box, (the same one they put in old holdens behind 6 cyl & small V8s) You are right about parts, would be getting very hard to find, I only sold my 83 Celica because I could not get parts, especially body/trim parts. I would imagine mechanical parts would be getting scarce also. If you are passionate enough and want to modify it then it's up to you. If you are prepared to do a engine swap to something newer might pay to research parts for the rest of the car. especially grille, headlight, taillight and interior parts, unless you can custom make or modify from other cars to fit, you may have worn out or damaged parts you can't replace. Can get costly in the long run but if you are passionate and the money doesn't bother then go for it. LIke I said do some research, call Toyota and just see the availabilty on trim parts, you would be lucky to find one at the wreckers now. They are getting pretty rare, the last time I saw a Corona on the street where I live was about a year ago. When you cant replace something with a good condition part it can be quite a headache. Maybe a newer motor than the 22RE if you are going to do it, just for better availabilty on parts. Hope that helps and hasn't put you off, all depends on your budget and how much you are will to spend, anything is do-able.

Graeme

Hi 08 ZR6, welcome to the site,

That is interesting, I have never seen that notice before, mine in a 2010 model and the leather on the top of the steering wheel facing the driver appears to be bonded leather, it is sort of pealing off. Is it just wear and tear or has anyone else noticed this?

It looks like it is part of the 'Idle Up' switch system, it probably works on air intake temperature for cold starts. Best thing is take it to Toyota and see if a mechanic can look at it without booking it in. They may and probably will tell you to book it in and even if they look for free they will tell you it needs replacing, not sure if it's vital though. If that fails find an independant mechanic who is familiar with Toyotas and see if it needs replacing.