Hiro

Depending on where they plug in, PCV or oil-breather hose fittings?

No problems whatsoever. The car should have a knock sensor, so it'll automatically adjust the timing to suit the higher octane/slower burn. Generally, running higher octane in a modern car is never a problem, the main problem is running LOWER octane than the engine is designed for (ie running 91 or 95 in an STi Impreza or 4AGZE)

Just like in Fight Club - if a company is only looking at the bottom line and not the reputation that they hold in the eyes of the consumer, they tend to hold off on recalls unless it's really really critical. Recalling cars en-masse is a very expensive exercise, much easier just to fix things come service time Take the number of vehicles in the field, ( A ), and multiply it by the probable rate of failure, ( B ), then multiply the result by the average out-of-court settlement, ( C ). A times B times C equals X. If X is less than the cost of a recall, we don't do one. And thats from a recall co-ordinator from a MAJOR car company.

N/A SW20 MR2s sold in Aus were all 3SGE, big difference from the 3SFE found in SV21 Camrys and ST-spec ST162 Celicas. Of course, could have just been a typo

Generally when you have a car which comes with 13" and 14" wheels depending on spec, for instance, the outside rolling diameter is still roughly the same. So fitting 14" wheels from the lux-spec model, as long as the proper profile tyres are used, won't affect things at all.

Get a brochure and quote from a local tinting company and stick it under the windscreen wiper along with a anonymous note along the lines of "For a little more privacy next time ;)"

Damn, they look even smaller than a 7AFE rod, and thats saying something

Still haven't got the V6 to match though :P

Maybe they're from Goulburn, where water restrictions were only slightly less severe than Hitler during WWII up until late last year.

Either post up the link, or some pictures for us to compare. Remember that the ADM AE112 looks nothing like the AE111 Levin too, so the seller could be selling AE111 parts.

A6x series Celica is indeed 4x114.3 PCD.

Good idea to flush it with hose + tap water before you re-connect the heater hoses, if it's going to leak cool tap water is much better to clean up than hot coolant. If it doesn't leak, but you think there might still be a problem, get it pressure tested (not sure if they can do that with the heater core still in the car). Some cores only leak when the coolant gets hot.

Might have to come along this year then, normally I don't bother with Autosalon but two cars which I both know is a decent incentive

Oil being blown out the rocker cover breather generally means that there's blow-by (ie loss of compression due to piston rings, causing the crankcase to become pressurised, which gets forced through the PCV valve into the rocker cover). Normally, that breather gets re-routed back into the intake so the blowby gets burnt again in the combustion process, but since you've got aftermarket carbies in there they probably don't have a fitting for it. So, main options would be to get rid of the filter on the breather, and install a full catch-can setup instead. You'll still have blowby, but the catch-can should be baffled to stop oil being sprayed out the filter on the catch-can (these are illegal by the way in most if not all states, but doesn't stop a lot of people). If you want to be really anal, you'll need to get a fitting of some sort put in the intake to plumb either the breather line back in, or the output line from the catch-can. Oh, and might as well test for compression too. Only takes a few minutes once you know how to do it, and definitely worthwhile in determining the health of your engine

Might be wheel bearings too. Jack the front of the car up, lock the steering (ie turn the key to LOCK and wiggle the steering wheel to lock it), put it into 4th (if it's manual), and grab one of the front wheels at 12 and 6 o'clock. Then, try and wiggle the wheel in and out. Then repeat with with your hands at 9 and 3 o'clock, and for the wheel on the other side. Faulty wheel bearings will make the wheel rock, if it's stiff and doesn't move then they're probably ok.

Would normally go to this, except it's the same day as the annual Twincam Bathurst cruise, which I never miss. For those who do go, keep an eye out for Ed's (ed_jza80 on Toymods) 1UZ Supra. If it runs, you better have earmuffs for the noise, and something to pick your jaw off the ground afterwards. Upwards of 500HP at the wheels, 9500rpm, N/A V8.

The fact that it's RWD is irrevelant though. It'd be like trying to use a ZZW31 as a basis for making a 1ZZ RWD in an AE86. Useles (well, no more use than your bog standard ZZE122 Corolla)

Unless you have a super modern auto (like a DSG or 7-speed or the like), manual will be better for fuel consumption, by far. Notice that just about every new car listing shows better fuel consumption for the manual model than the auto. Autos lose more power in the driveline, thus need more power to be made in order to go as fast as a manual.

I would have thought it would have been more obvious that all the Caltex fuels had been lobbed into one, considering the number of people who'd use Caltex (esp. Vortex) compared to E10

suggest you speak to this guy Link on Twincam.org Not really worth it considering thats a BEAMS 3SGE, which is naturally north-south RWD in the RS200 Altezza. No 3SGTE was ever found in n/s RWD format, they were all east-west. SW20 MR2 (as with all MR2s) is essentially FWD just with the engine at the other end of the car. Uses FWD gearbox, transverse engine etc. So using an MR2 as an example of a RWD 3S is essentially useless unless you're only talking about MR2s.

Is this for a GT4 or a full transplant into a RWD vehicle? If it's just converting the GT4 from AWD to RWD, then a W-series gearbox is an impossibility. It's a longitudinal (ie north-south) gearbox, whilst the engine is transverse (ie east-west) and needs a FWD-style gearbox. Playing around with the AWD gearbox is a possibility, I'm sure someone somewhere along the line has done it, but why do you want to lose AWD? And if it's going into a completely different RWD chassis, then you've got a long long hard road ahead of you, with plenty of money spent too. RWD-converting a 3SGTE is one of the biggest pains in the neck you can do with a Toyota.

Technically, if it's a stock 2.4L it's an RT142, with the 22RE engine and EFI. ST141 is 2SC carby motor, but basically same body. The RT model had better driveline from memory too, as well as the option for an IRS + disk rear end.

All this talk of Oran Park closing, but isn't the guy who owns it going to build a new track a bit further out of town, so apart from a few year gap in the middle, things will continue as normal? Plus there's still the on-going issue of the proposed Ringwood track at Raymond Terrace.

Does the RT142 Avante (with IRS) have a disc rear end? Might be able to swap the whole lot over if it does. Try A6x Celicas too, pretty much the same driveline. MA61 Supras got rear discs, and that whole rear end should drop in, but it'll be expensive.

A Short Ram Intake is absolutely useless as far as a cold air intake goes, it's basically a pod and a short bit of pipe sitting in the engine bay sucking in all that hot air. It's mostly a marketing gimmick that uses the name of an induction technique from the sixties and seventies on American muscle cars (the Ram Air ones with the bonnet scoops, like the GTO), and really only increases induction noise and could actually lose power over a stock intake with decent panel filter.