challengethemasters

Sorry to backup that troll but I cannot help my self after reading the immature posts! EDITED!! RWD will never compare to FWD! you will die trying! adding sports brake lines, pissy see through to the pad callipers, Motec, Suspension, Strut bars, nolathane bushes, Tien suspension etc doesn't make it a TRD! your quite immature if you think it's a TRD or FWD will handle better than a RWD, here is a nice little easy to understand video. I'm over these forums, if people are under the consensus FWD is the king and an Aurion (actually the same as USA Camry) is some kind of super beast of a car. FFS it's a FWD Camry with pulling issues and interior rattles!

I have just changed the spark plugs, and first thing that comes to mind is why on earth did DJKOR suggest to remove the Manifold, Air filter housing, throttle body, Vacuum hose replace gasket If anyone has one in stock! ?? I can understand from a point of view more room, but buying or waiting for the exhaust manifold gasket takes time and cost money. and there is a much simpler way of doing it. Listen up.... I Removed the wind shield wiper cowl, unbolted and removed the windshield wipers, remove windshield wiper motor, unbolt the lower metal cowl, then unbolted the bracket that’s connected to the manifold and engine as it covers the 1st rear plug, (far left) disconnect all the clips and done!! There’s enough access the rear three cylinders, without any drama (and I'm not skinny or captain elastic too!!!) the last plug on the right is tricky just unbolt the wiring brackets then shift the wiring up and slide the ignition coil out. Use a stool to stand on, or remove bonnet. FAQ needs to be updated! About a 20 - 30 minute job.

The photo tells the truth! perhaps it is on every Aurion? I'm not in a position to pull the rod of the assembly line and check the gap, all I know is what I provided above there is quite a gap, According the the member I pm'd he also implied the gap and the knocking. The raybestos ones has almost no gap just enough to get the bolt through and thread her up.

This may well be there duty to check, replace but the very fact the diameter at the end of the rod is 1.5mm - 3mm bigger than the bolts provided, or stock bolts. As shown in pics. And nothing has changed since 2006 in Australia regarding this. Perhaps this why the become loose? I wouldn't torque it up hard! there is a spot welded low tensile fine thread bolt underneath that you will thread if to tight. I should of got a better photo of the bolt but as you can see on the right side its pretty smashed up! Note: at all times the bolts have been tight.

2 faults with the Aurion Engine control rod 1. The cheap bushes have a 100,000 life cycle, according to Toyotas tech 2. 14mm 6cm bolt at rear is 10mm with but should be 11.5 When the rods bushes split it sounds like the shaft sound others experience, as the force of the engine at start up and acceleration are actually knocking backwards and forwards, left and right, you will probably think the rear/front control arm bushes are absolutely worn or worse! also the last bolt is ***** poorly engineered, the 14mm (10mm thread) is actually thinner than it's meant to be the diameter of the hole is 12mm! If you was to give it a push you can hear it knock, also at acceleration, at hard stops etc. one I unbolted the rod I first noticed at a glance that rear bolt had suffered a life worse than death! it was quite worn around the non threaded. I jumped on the forums and noticed another member had similar related issue with his Aurion, I pm’d him and asked whether the bolt is a snug fit and when he bolted the replacement up does it still knock, and in fact the diameter was 12mm too and still knocks, no replacements bolts where given! I just got an after market Engine rod from the US and noticed the bolt marries up almost perfect and they supplied grease to pack in before bolting on, also the bushes are polyurethane as well as it only costed $110 I’m quite happy with he replacement which only cost $82 US there is no knocking and at start up a whole lot less vibration, so all in all a good fix but could of been avoided if it was corrected or noticed while the car was still in warranty!! Perhaps Toyota needs to recognise this fault and escalate it to the engineering team to be looked at?

Going to upgrade to RAYBESTOS removing ALL OEM suspension. The raceshop has used these in the GT-40 and Ferrari because there already light weight! strong, Cold-forged rod for superior strength and stability and Fused polyurethane.and the bushes are equal if not better than WL and Nolathane and a RAYBESTOS polyurethane offset bush with forged crush proof shell is $11 not $270! I'm about to upgrade: Sway Bar Link Kits Stabilizer Bar Links Complete Arms With Ball Joint; Front and Rear Caster / Camber Cam Bolt Kit 17mm Bolts; Double Offset; Up To Plus/Minus 1-1/4 Degree; Front & R Adj camber bolts total - $340 + $150 for shipping Fed X international Priority I want a gustemate what it would cost in OEM part?

HEY GUYS! I have been thinking long and hard as to why are people removing the Manifold, Air filter housing, throttle body, Vacume hose?? Remove windshield wiper cowl, unbolt and remove the windshield wipers, remove windshield wiper motor, unbolt the lower metal cowl, theres enough access the rear three cylinders.

Expensive mate!! USPS sucks imo had loads of missed parcels through them! What's funny is SupaCheapAuto offered staff discount on NGK DILFR6D11 and still ended up $50 more than US with Express overnight! Look at these prices via RA FedX and Air express! "SET OF 6 NOT 4!" Wish we can order from China or Thailand, I saw a documentary in January of the Thailand factory making NGK and Denso plugs by hand!! stating there worth $1.50 and Western Powers distribute them for $$$ think it was on 60 minutes..

I just went to the FAQ because I forgot the product code for the spark plugs for our Aurions and noticed there isn't even anything on the FAQ about spark plugs. That would be a good update. it's in the owners manual Page 283 :P

I will upload via netload.in "only by requests"

Never had this issue mate in 110,000 k's I have utilised the same battery since 0 and she start instantly, and drove her to QLD, NSW, and never missed a start up. Theres another post recently regarding the same symptoms, I would be inclined to think the alternator may be playing up, because the battery in the car should be good to 120,000 at best, spark plugs (Denso FK20R11) good for 150,000. I personally and IMO!! would never add additives to the oil or petrol, such as Injector cleaner. Take her to a good Auto electrician and they can plug her into the System and do a full diagnostic on the spot and find the problemo. Saying this I've hired a few Aurion in my day, My inner child comes out in rentals!!, deliberate rev limit for minutes and FW burnouts :P returned a few barely working too :P bahhahahaha , I hope you didn't buy my ex rentals :(

Without worrying you to much, I'd say the alternator is not doing it's job.

I'm not sure there kind of a specialised LED Ask @ Sprints or Repco they might have, in my opinion Sprints has the best knowledge for anything mechanical.

Try using a Japanese LED, I know from experience That the Jap LED's are about 10x brighter and longer lasting than any off the shelf LED's. My little Energizer LED I bought from Woolies has a Japanese LED in it and it brightens a dark room more than my other 24LED from Autobahn.

Not sure why you would pay $550+ for a $280 Unit?????? There's way better ones on "alibaba.com" 8.2" Windows with Garmin, TomTom, Better CPU and more RAM etc (Being Windows you can exploit the OS and install any GPS) But if you want to pay $500+ for a Chinese or Malay GPS/ DVD player be my guess just trying to save you money, since ebay sellers actually purchase from "alibaba.com" (But they will not tell you this if there life depends on it!!)