Topdog

Most government cars are sold once they reach 40000k on the clock. Just before the end of the financial year would probably be their busiest time, when they are working out their next year's budgets.

It is regarded as normal because this how the engine management system works. Idles the engine fast on cold start to warm the engine to operating temperature quicker and prevent stalling when cold. I wouldn't worry yourself over it...as long as drops to lower revs when warm/hot....it will not harm the engine.. FYI: I use Castrol GTX3...

That's normal..

Thanks Rolla,, Got all the tools, I usually tape the sockets in situations. A bit of heatshrink works well too, had to do a friends Nissan Pathfinder and the rear plug is a real doozy to get to. Whipceacker, I am prone to the Iridiums after looking at he NGK website. Seems they are designed more for the modern "lean burnining motors" and they're $20 a set cheaper.

Rolla02: I'm just about due to change the plugs in my Camry I,ve had alook and I guessed it would be possible to do it that way. I have plenty of extensions etc . Did you have any trouble getting the leads out? A job best done with a cold engine. Any other hints or tips would be appreciated...

I have a 2000/2001 Camry V6 Conquest, bought around August 2001 and it only came with one key. Went to a key place in Perth but can't the name offhand and bought a blank which they cut using my original then took it to the nearest Toyota dealer(Big Rock) and they programmed it for around $40 from memory and it's still working.. If you have your Users Manual there is a section in there regarding keys. It is well worth a read. Edit: My memory clicked in last night and I remembered the key actually cost around $140 and the dealer actually came to the party and refunded half..

That may be so but they are still very handy for the home mechanic and they don't pretend to be anything else.. BTW I have a set of factory manuals as well. Two, one for the motor and one for the car itself, but they cost around $150 and a lot of people would baulk at that sort of outlay.

P0325 is "Knock Sensor Bank 1 on V6 models". It is located on the R/H side of the exhaust manifold when looking from the front of the car, can't miss it and is easy to get at. Just had a look at mine. You will see the sensor with connector attached. Possible faults are: Open or short cct in knock sensor cct, loose knock sensor or PCM malfunction. There is another one which is really hard to get at but it has a different fault code, P0330 so you may have lucked out and maybe able to just replace the unit yourself and see what happens. My experience has been that just replacing these things usually does the trick. Could also just be a dirty connector. Be careful when removing the connector, they are easily broken. Of course you may just have a knock problem but my money is on the sensor, and I tend to agree, if there was a knock i would think you would definitely notice it.

Hi, You don't say where you are from, but Haynes put out a repair manual which covers Corollas from 1997-2006, Series AE101,102,112 ansd ZZE122, excluding Sportivo Turbo Charged models. Should be available from most car parts stores.. ISBN No:1 56932 668 7

Started to write a long winded reply and suddenly realised the poster was refrring to a 4 cylinder, not a V6.. But I would still put in platinums or even iridiums(they are cheaper). I used iridiums for my Corolla at a cost of $94....but you can get them cheaper, around $18 each.

See my reply to your other post re. Knock Sensor.

Haynes have a very good repair manual for around $35-40 and it covers 1997-2002, V6 and 4Cyl, auto and manual..Just need a mirror to read it but is still largely the same as ours.

Get it fixed. what happens is the car's computer registers the fault and stores it for extraction as per what the service people did and they would have reset it to detremine if it is intermittent or not. As it has come up again then the fault exists and will need to be rectified..They should be able to give you a good estimate of repair costs..It will most likely be a sensor failure..

Because I could....

In my last post I said you will find thr OBDII connector just under the dash to the right of the steering column. it's a 16 pin "D" connector, usually with a plastic cover with OBDII marked on it. May have to contort yourself to see it. You WON'T read the pulses with a multimeter, an oscilloscpe will. What you need to look at is your engine warning light which will flash at a rate and sequence in accordance with the fault code(s) stored in the car's OBD computer.. To do this you will need to jumper the appropriate pins on the OBD connector, turn on the ignition(don't start the motor). The pin numders are 13 & 4. You WILL need to know what you are doing and what to look for and for that you will need some technical info and documentation...A quick check of my"Haynes" Camry manual lists, for example, around 8 fault codes for Oxygen(O2) sensors and still it may not be your fault, there are literally 100s of fault codes associated with your car's engine management system. Otherwise you'te going to have to take it to someone who can do it for you, which I strongly recommend you do.

The light indicates the On Board Diagnostics(OBD) have registered a fault in the engine. To find out what the fault is, is to have a diagnostics tool connected and see what one of the hundreds of faults codes it is. Your best shot is to take it to a Toyota dealer and have them look at it. The chances of finding an independant technician who has the necessary equipment is very remote as the right code reader is very Toyota specific, in Australia anyway, as OBD II, which is supposed to be a standard just isn't so. I found that out when I purchased an OBDII Code Reader from the US and I cannot get it to read any data from my Camry, or Corolla. They do work OK on the American models.. Another way, but you need to know what you are doing and have a full list of fault codes. What you do is short two pins on the ABDII connector found under the dash just to the right of the steering wheel, turn the ignition on and count the pulse sequence on the Engine Warning Light. This pulse(blink )sequence will give you the fault code. Unless you know what you are looking for and have the list of codes, forget it, take it to the dealer.. If you're lucky it may be a one off glitch or fault input which can be easily reset by the dealer service people. If it persists, you have a problem which needs to be fixed. It may not be too serious if the system didn't throw you into "Limp mode" which basically restricts what your car will be able to do other than "limp" to a dealer. f you can get your hands on a Gregorys/Haynes Repair Manual it will give you some very good info on the subject. The copy I have covers Camrys from 1997 tp 2001, 4 and 6 cylinder models. Most car parts retailers have them for around $40 and are very worthwhile.

The manual says to use the fill/check hole to replace the fluid using a syringe but I don't see why you can't use the dipstick pipe. Will still need to rmove the fill/check plug to check level and pour fluid into the dipstick hole until it starts to overflow from the check hole. May be a bit messy that way.....

Knock noise where,...........,engine, suspension, drive train?????

If you ask nicely and they find no permanent fault, they may not charge you anything. It could be an intermittent fault. You might just be lucky but if not, it will be expensive.

The CD data I have only covers the 2004 model which has sufficient data to carry out any work I need to do on mine, even if it is a 2005 there ain't that much difference. I don't think gregory's do a lot the manuals anymore. when I searched for a Gregorys manual for mine it kept coming up as Haynes. Another takeover perhaps. I will say this, whatever you say you are looking I have to accept but I have never seen such a configuration. Also we have gotten way off track from the original question re a problem with a Camry and I think the question has been asked and answered. The problem is not a problem.

Yes I have the CD copy but no I also have a Haynes manual which covers Australian models, with righthand dive evenand including all the models you listed. Just to satisfy byou I have just removed a rear wheel to physically prove what I already knew, the parking brake is a drum assembly built into the rotor assembly . . It also shows the use of drum brakes on some models without 4 wheel disc brakes. On a historical note, one of the reasons they use this configuration on cars with rear discs is that sufficient pressure cannot be mechanically applied thru the pistons which will effectively hold the car stationary, and was a big problem in the early days of 4 wheel disc brakes and probaly still is.. It is not a seperate assembly. It is a parking brake only and is not used for normal stopping, only the dics are.. Something you can try which will show the mechanical effort required to stop and hold a car with disc brakes is the get yourself on a hill (wtih no traffic around) turn off the motor, operate the pedals a couple of times let the car roll and see how much pedal pressure is required just to stop the car without power assistance...

Just checked my repair manual for Corollas(1997-2006) and it shows a drum brake for the parking brake(disc brake models)...Maybe some are different...???

Happens on our Camry & Corolla so I jacked them up and found that with the handbrake on you can still rock the rear wheels backward and forward. The handbrake on cars with rear disc ion brakes does not use the calipers but a drum system on the inside of the rotor, much like any drum brake assembly...It has no effect at all on the normal braking operation of the car..

As I understand it, Toyotas use a rolling code security system which means the code is changed each time the car is started/opened and if the remote loses sync with the car's system then it won't work, hence the procedure outlined in my previous post. The rolling code system is designed to prevent sitting nearby and obtaining your car's code using a remote scanner. If you have purchased a new RC then it will not be synchronised with the car and will not work.. If it still doesn't work you will have to take it to a dealer..

From the Camry Owners manual(Page 10): If the remote control does not work, resynchronisation ma be required. To resynchronise the remote: 1.turn the ignition switch to "ON". 2.Press door lock/unlock button on the remote control. 3.Turn ignition switch to "LOCK" and remove key. 4.Test operation of RC. If that doesn't work, see your Toyota dealer. Hope That helps..