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Topdog

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Everything posted by Topdog

  1. Nope!!! But it could be very dangerous if you do neither and get out....
  2. I've got a Toyota Factory Service manual for the V6 and it says 150,000 Km.....
  3. Gotta go with the flow here. They are about as simple to replace as it could get. Sounds to me like they are charging for a complete coolant change as well as replacing the bottle.and the necessity for that would be, how long since the last coolant change??
  4. Pretty well how I do things with all my cars over the last 40 years..Have fun.
  5. I have done a change on my 2001 V6 Camry(Auto) and this is how. Despite what the service manual says, I could not find a plug that would drain the diff, and this is true of later versions of this transmission. What I ended up doing was, drain the transmission via the drain plug, remove the transmission sump and cleaned the filter using compressed air. Replaced the filter and sump(using a new gasket), fill the transmission with new fluid using the dipstick inlet. Go for a short drive, around 5-10K, re-drain the system and then refill using a new lot of fluid, and the job is done. The reason for doing it this way is to pick up as much of the old fluid left behind after the first change the first change. Remember, short of pulling the transmission off and tipping it upside down and flushing it out, you are always going to be left with some old fluid, much the same as with and engine oil change. This method was given to me be a local transmission technician. That was three years ago at 60000K an with the next one not due till 120000K and I have not had even a hint of any problems. Sounds like an expensive way of doing it but it only cost me $40 for fluid plus cost of a new gasket. Much less than the $160plus I was quoted to do the job.. I have a factory service manual and it shows a diff drain plug but in real life mine ( and most likely yours) doesn't have one, so don't look for it. Trust that helps.....
  6. Usual time is 100,000k for majority of vehicles but things may have changed. My 2001 Camry V6 is specified at 150,000K and that's in the factory service manual....Also in Haynes repair manual.
  7. If I got this right then try folding the belt on itself where it passes through the slot in the belt clip and work it around till it is back to it's correct sense. Takes a little patience... Ignore this suggesttion if I got it wrong. :)
  8. Is this an after market fitted unit??? Could be why you can't find anything in the manual about it.
  9. Unclip the hose from the bottle, loosen the two bolts holding the bottle to the bulkhead and lift bottle out. Flush out under a tap. NOTE: Some areas and countries will want you to dispose of the fluid responsibly. ie not down the drain . Replace bottle and add coolant to the lower mark level.
  10. From the W/S manual(2001 but should be similar): REMOVE PACKAGE TRAY TRIM: a. Remove the bolts holding the the rear seat belt, lower side to the body. b. Remove the seat belt with seat belt hole covers from the shelf trim. c. Remove the trim by pulling forward. Might pay to also do the following first. REMOVE HIGH MOUNTED STOP LIGHT: a. Push on both sides of the cover to release the claws by hand and remove the cover by pushing the unit up and toward the rear window. b. Remove the two bolts and stop light, then disconnect the connector. Hope that helps.. :)
  11. Red(in the case of Toyotas) is Toyota branded, the green is not..All you need is Ethylene-Glycol and demineralised or distilled water with a 50/50 mix. That's from the Toyota Workshop Manual...
  12. While we're on the subject of mixing coolants, under NO circumstances mix red and green versions, they are incompatible.. When I changed mine it had red but I thoroughly flushed the system first before using the green variety and have had no problems whatsoever.
  13. Last time I did mine I used Nulon Long Life, Ethylene-glycol 50% with 50% distilled water and is still as good as the day I changed it. The Toyota Workshop Manual (1MZ-FE) states: Use a quality brand Ethylene-Glycol base. Mixture ratio: at least 50% E-G(not more than 75% E-G) with demineralised or distilled water. Do not use alcohol based coolants. There is no mention that you MUST use Toyota branded coolant, just a quality brand. To drain, I just remove bottom radiator hose and there is also a drain ***** on the front of the motor. You may need to remove the exhaust pipe heat shield to gain easier access to the drain *****.
  14. They're "brakes" , "breaks" is what you get when the "brakes" don't work and the other stuff is called "asbestos"....... Also, it is quite normal for the brake pedal to go down slightly after starting the engine and the booster kicks in..
  15. Have the Workshop manual in front of me right now and it shows the following locations(1MZ-FE V6; 5S-FE 4cyl), in both cases it is at the lefthand passengerside of the car and is at the bottom rear of the engine. on top of the diff housing(V6) , a little bit further down for the 4 Cylinder, but in the same area.... Hope that helps..
  16. Just a tip to save you a bit of money should you have the same problem My Camry(2000) passenger side electric window winder intermittently wouldn't work, the fault traced back to the switch console in the driver side armrest console(the passenger side was OK). A trip to Toyota and was quoted $432 for a replacement(I only wanted one not a whole box I told the guy), not a servicable unit. Home I went and extracted the unit from the armrest and found it was all held together with 5 screws, what the heck let's have look inside. One hour later it was installed back in the armrest and working 100%. The contacts inside were black with carbon and just required cleaning...Easy as. Just one word of warning, take careful note of how it comes apart and you won't have any trouble.. Hope this is helpful to someone.
  17. Let you know how it goes...
  18. I have had a variety of FWD cars since the 60's and have never had to replace a CV joint yet at least not the jont itself. I have pulled a few of them apart and serviced them, but never replaced. The thing to do is do visual checks on the rubber boots and check for ANY damage such as cracking or splits and if found get the boots replaced ASAP. One method I was given the physically check them was to drive the car in reverse in a circle and listen for abnormal clicking sounds. It should be remebered though there are many areas in the suspension and steering which can do all of the things you are concerned about, such as steering rack, ball joints, disc brake rotors warped just to mention a few.
  19. OK I read your other post(Bizzare Idle) and I will try to answer some of your questions as best I can. While the manuals state it is OBDII, it most definitely is not, leastwise US. I have a 1MZE_FE factory manual and looking at the connector layout confirms this, hence my attempt to make in interface cable to try and match it to what the scanner is trying to see. The connector pin layout is upside down and back to front from a normal OBDII(US) layout, and appears to be one of the other OBDII "Standards", but I suspect the OZ version is something else again. The only thing I can say in relation to the underdash connector is that the dustcap has OBDII embossed on it and it is a 16 pin type as used for OBDII. As i said I will have to wait till I return from NZ (end Nov)and see if I can track down anything when my son brings an oscilloscope around. I don't hold out any great hopes that I will be able to get this unit working on my Camry but I will keep trying as long as I can. The scanner I have is an Equus 3100. The handbook has over 50 pages of fault codes listed but are all 4 digit, so I can't be of much help there, unless you can find out what the 4 digit ones are. The factory manual has only a few 4 digit codes codes listed. I also found Toyota to be as helpful as you did.
  20. So far I have had to make up an interface cable which matches as best as I can figure the Camry layout and the unit boots up but doesn't appear to be reading the data if any is being transmitted and comes up with an "Error" display. I'm off th NZ next week and will have to wait till I return and will get my son to bring home a CRO and see what is present on the data line. As usual with standards, they're all the same but different. I have been told that the BA falcons and after are very US type compliant, just got to find someone who owns one. I'm not over worried about it as it was only got as a project and it one of those tools you hope you never have to use. I would have liked to go down the PC + software path but just now cannot justify the costs of getting a new laptop etc.
  21. Hi all, New to this forum and there seems to be scant info on OBDII. I have just bought myself, as a project, an Equss 3100 OBD II fault code reader. The unit is designed mainly for the US market, but I thought I would see whether I could get it to work on my 2000 V6 Camry, so far no joy, much as I suspected. Has anyone else tried or experimented with this or any similar units? Iwould be interested in any info. I have made a cable up using pin data extracted from my 1MZ-FE factory manual which seems to indicate all I need is 12V, Gnd and Data. I can plug the unit into the underdash OBD/DLC3 connector and the unit boots up OK but eventually times out with and "Error" display . I am waiting for my son to come over with an oscilloscope to look at what the data stream looks like, but in the meantime if anyone has some advice????? While the manual says OBDII, I think it is Toyotas version of it. The manual states "The vehicle's ECU uses ISO 9141-2 for communications. The terminal arrangement of DLC3 comp;ies with SAE J1962 and matches ISO 9141- format." TIA for any info.
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