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Manxman last won the day on August 22 2016

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About Manxman

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    Western Australia
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  • Annual Mileage
    10,001 to 15,000
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    General Automotive

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  1. Car coming up for inspection, immob must work. currently disabled--how do I enable it if fob working, and how to replace battery in fob [OEM] if dead? thx.
  2. efi diesels from 2000, afair. please DON'T turbo anything but a 2.4Liter, the iron heads will not take the heat. around 250,000km it's normal to have head problems often caused by poor matenance/hard drving/cooling fail. later ones might have airbags. They can survive beyond 500,000km iff oil changes frequent enough and long cruising runs. Not powerful, but utterly reliable and owner serviceable. I find the old 2.2Liter motor adequate, but that's me. The 2.2, 2.4, 2.8, & 3.0 liter motors interchange freely, apart from electrical connectors and exhaust header flanges. stronger gearboxes on bigger motor(s?), common bellhousing pattern.
  3. Looking at another hilux, dual cab 4x2, 1990-99. need to know internal tub dimensions and whether I can legally fit a gopher carrier platform across the rear beyond the tailgate on the towbar,
  4. Prices sound a bit rural [me or diy], but remember these are brakes, and they HAVE to work propperly. Could easily have problems under dash, inc setting the airbags off. It's not difficult, but there are traps for the unwary and a failure could put you in court if u diy. When it comes to safety, it's often cheaper to leave it to experts. Just make sure it's not his first one, and my experience of Tekumseh(?)is old lawnmowers, posthole diggers and truck refidgeration units--all awfu, but progress may have come.
  5. Big end--bottom conrod bearing--major strip down, regrind crankshaft. you don't indiate milage, but it's old enough to have done the miles/work to wear things. if you get change out of abt 4K you've got out of it cheap, if that's what's wrong. I know the o5 07 D4D has serious problems with injectpor seals failing and the oil chystalizing and blloclking the oil pickup, bit I've not heard of such in the 2012 motor. This rebuild is not for amateurs, and you might not be able to tell if a used motor is ok. The good news is its a tojo. the skills and parts are common, and although expensive, it will return good service for your investment. I do not recommend a performance upgrade, as ititsn't worthwhile IMHO.
  6. MEASURE THE OIL PRESSURE!!!!!!!! you may have done a bigend etc....... but if the pressure is too low, it'll be a good guide. Avoid running the motor for more than a few seconds to get a reading. . as more damage will result consult manual for min working oil pressures. at [x]rpm
  7. Manxman

    Fuel economy

    Without turbo. a 3l hilux 4x2 diesel will give abt 10L/100km unloaded, low wind, mild hills @ abt 80kph. that translates as abt 33KW cont power. More power==more fuel. it's a direct relationship. If the drag/slope/load don't change, neither does the fuel consumption A bigger diesel motor will not burn more fuel just because it's bigger, it will burn more because it's producing more power. More power means more speed if all else the same. IE 2 different motors produce the same power, and have similar internal losses, they will burn the same amount of fuel. That said, A turbo can improve fuel economy at low loads, but when you make the motor work hard, it can and does produce more power than an aspirated one, and thus uses more fuel then. If you know your fuel consumption, you know your power produced. it's approx 3.3KWHr/Liter for a reasonable diesel motor in fair condition. Petrol motors, partic 2 strokes have lower figures. Speed has the greatest effect on fuel consumption because drag changes at the cube of a change in speed, thus requiring a cubed increase in fuel to get the necessary power. NB Power is heat-and what is generated at the crankshaft is also put into your radiator and down your exhaust pipe in similar quantities. Driving hard, especially with a turbo, requires good cooling. The cheapest way to drive is modestly, at a near constant speed, (unless running in.)
  8. Water pump is not driven by cam belt, it should be removable without disturbing cam belt. Tensioner has 2 bolts--long one is a pivot, short one is lock bolt, both have to be loosened to adjust cam belt. If not properly tightened, they will eventually release the tension in the cam belt, which will upset cam timing and prob cause valve damages with the pistons. Your motor is prob jammed, rather than seized, but its still harsh and expensive. Very difficult to prove him at fault. It's an old motor-you will have to prove no metal fatigue etc. There's myriad legal outs for him to avoid paying out, and I wouldn't want him sorting it. You're in Qld--you can't be awarded legal costs there. Might not be worth pursuing him. This is why I prefer DIY wherever possible-its my responsibility to get it right, and if I don't-there's no-one else to blame.
  9. You will have to reduce the compression ratio to abt 22:1 you could just fit a thicker head gasket. You will HAVE to watch your engine/head temperature closely--fit accurate post market gauges. These iron heads are on their thermal limit with a 5L, and a direct alloy head isn't available. Alibaba might get you an L motor alloy head from china--but it's the sidecam version, which could be persuaded to fit? You'd need to do lots of research! Turbo-ing an L series motor is best limited to a 2L for safety, but it's your car, and your money. Do the rebuild properly, and DO get a boost compensator for the injector pump from a 2LT. Do not drive it hard for too long, as it will cook.
  10. Utes r geared low, with overdrive for some economy. My ln147r did abt 3000 for 100kph. These motors stand 4500 +, but waste too much fuel after 3000. U can do some calculations of power required to pull into a typical headwind and up a typical incline, with soft ground. Match that against your power curve and you can pick rpm/kph. If the maths is too hard experiment affordably. Beware over heating if overgeared. Try jackmaster oil filter for long fast cruising with turbo.
  11. My 5L. 1999, didn't have air pipes into the exhaust. the intake plumbing is readily connected once you swap cam covers.
  12. I think u have to rotate the header pipe 60degees. Watch temperature closely. You'll easily cook it. I don't recommend doing this. The 5L must be in very good order, reconndition if doubts.
  13. connect 12V [flashing?] LED neg to power wire after headlight switch and before hi/low beam selector. Connect LED Pos to power wire after spotlight on switch. LED will only light if sports on and lights off, so I recommend alarm colour. spots will not come on when not wanted. LED --longest wire is neg.
  14. original 2.4L or 2.8L--can fit any toyota 4 cyl diesel from abt 1988-1999 2.2L [L], 2.4L [2L(T)], 2.8L [3L] and 3.0L [5L]. goes straight in as direct fit apart from electrical connectors. NB. use glowplugs as the original body year, to match them to the timer. They interchange, but are different for different timers. 2.4L can have turbo-not recommended for those larger motors as they will overheat. These motors are known as the L series, and are known by their iron heads-which won't handle a lot of extra heat from extra power or harsh running. Failing that, later motors can be fitted with a little more work. Be very careful abt a used motor, as it might be hard to tell how good it is. rebuilds are expensive, however, and must be done fully to be of any worth. 2000-2004 motors are 5L with mechanical fuel pump and efi. after that they built a new engine to fit a turbo. 05-07 motors have weak injector seals which cause engine oil overheating carbonizing, which collects on the oil pickup mesh in the sump. major engine failures have resulted-cure-change seals often and check pickup screen say, every 50,000km. do not overheat your oil on any motor, particularly these.
  15. Use ONLY dry lube for lock tumblers--prevents formation of abrasive paste, but tks.