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am3037

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am3037 last won the day on July 16 2013

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  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    KX-S
  • Toyota Year
    2010
  • Location
    Northern Territory
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    Motorsport & Racing
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  1. Time for a shift kit......which means the engine is still stock :) Ill bet there's nearly half a seconds worth there.....plus less heat in the trans. I've hit up Mike at MV Autos in SA to have a look at the valve body. Nothing a few bits of stainless pipe and heavy srprings can't fix.
  2. Good idea Rath, too many wallabies up here eh?
  3. You should be able to get a pre-facelift 09/10 model with 40,000km KX-S for around $36-38k. You should be getting a 40,000km Grande (2wd) for around $41-43k.
  4. Buy a set of used 2JZ-GTE turbos for around the $400 mark. You can find them for sale at many Australian wreckers, online at eBay or Yahoo Japan, and especially from online supra forums. You simply cannot, in any fashion, rebuild your turbos yourself without a ~$20,000.00 balancing machine. Sure, you can replace the thrust washer and bearing, but as soon as it spins up to make boost, its dead again. It would be cheaper to buy second hand ones from Australia or Japan. A $600 rebuild isn;t bad value, ask for the ceramic wheels to be replaced with Steel (Inconel) wheels and if its only a few hundred more, than its a good deal. Rebuilt twin turbos with steel turbine wheels are a lot of fun, a lot less laggy than a single turbo and can make good power.
  5. Its pretty self explanatory without the pictures. 1. I think the original poster forgot to say "DISCONNECT BATTERY BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE AIRBAG AS INJURY DEATH OR OTHERS AMUSEMENT MAY OCCUR" 2. The first of the plastic clips that need prying out with a screw driver are located behind the Cruise Control lever. Will Look similar to this : The other one is on the opposite side. Its shaped like a kidney/semi cirlce, and is flush with the steering wheel housing that mounts to the column. Be gentle, use the sticky tape over the flat blade screwdriver as described in the first post, or use a proper trim removal tool. Once yo'uve removed this, it will expose the Torx fastener, as seen above sitting in its black plastic retainer that stops it from being removed. Undo this fastner, do the same on the other side, and youll be able to remove the airbag pad enough to access the yellow clip and disconnect it completely. You can then put it in a safe place away from yourself and anyone else! From there, its all as described, everything will make sense. How powerful is an SRS Airbag deployment?
  6. Yes the steering wheels amongst nearly all Toyota and Lexus post 2001 use the same type II airbag and connector. The Phone, Audio and Trip Computer functions are varied throughout however. Among similar classes (i.e. Camry/Aurion/Kluger/GS450 or Corolla/IS250/CT200) the cabing and conectors are often the same. I have fitted a 2010 RX350 steering wheel to a 1992 Soarer! Of course, the airbag is pointless as the Soarer was not fitted with Airbags at the time. However it looks pretty trick. You cannot however use the Type II Airbag steering wheels (Post 2001) on earlier toyotas and expect them to work in the event of a collision. Something else to remember, very importantly, is that the airbags shape, position, and deployment veolcity is tailored to a particular vehicle. Taking an airbag from one chassis, to another is something to research carefully. I went to a wrecking yard and compared a deployed RX350 airbag shape to a deployed GSU40 kluger, and it is the same shape. I purchased the RX350 wheel from Yahoo Japan for $450 landed. Swap badges and your set. Nice upgrade for the Grande, but will make the fake wood trim look even worse!
  7. Very true, but its the Lotus aftermarket that will trickle down to us bottom feeders. Imagine the TRD 2GR without the TRD ECU killing all the fun. I mean that ECU just plain sucks. I was really looking forward to driving Brents TRD. I got in, put my seat belt on and let it rip. What a let down. That ECU is retarding 90% of the fun potential. It was everywhere I didnt want it to be. The TVS blower doesnt have to work hard, the engine doesnt have to suffer the stress and heat of a much more powerful turbocharger setup, that will no doubt be faster and make more horsepower, but it wont be anywhere near as driveable as TVS1300/1900 blown 2GR with a tuneable ECU and other supporting mods. Luke: Do you really have to go through the Individually Constructed Vehicle process to get a 2GR into a Corolla? Thats gotta be a painful process in Victoria, thumbs up to you!!
  8. Its a pity about the rated tyres. The kluger definately has a lot more left in it, and its unbelievably stable at those speeds, lane changes and overtakes are very confident. Its a very soft cut when you hit the limiter, it feels more like the FBW throttle is being overidden, rather than the ignition being cut.
  9. IMO those prices are on the higher side for a transmission cooler installation, but in the long run are cheap insurance when you look at the big picture. The cost of the transmission coolant radiator will be between $40-$120 depending on size. The cost of additional hosing (standard rubber/silicone with hose clamps, not braided teflon and -8 speedflow fittings!) is approximately $15 (with plenty left over) The cooler and hosing will require less than a litre of additional transmission fluid. ~$10. However, this is the new Toyota WS version of fluid, which funnily enough is designed to never be replaced unlike the ATF IV and Toyotas own special (!) T-IV fluid. So you can only buy it from the stealership in a shiny 4L can for around $90. It is a very cool and shiny can though. Allow an hour to install. ~$110 Oh, workshop consumables, environmental disposal fees, carbon tax, ~$20 If you are touring around the Top End in the Wet Season, its pretty extreme. Youll have the AC running non stop for a start. The engine radiator is also cooling the transmission, as well as the engine, so whilst towing, its working even harder. For towing large loads, an often overlooked area is braking. Certain areas in the NT are very long and very hilly, and as the Kluger is already underbraked (in my opinion) a set of upgraded pads should be considered as much as a transmission cooler, considering they would be half the cost (supplied and fitted) and can really make your drive a lot less stressful when towing close to the Klugers capacity. ( I tow a car trailer often enough up here) Whilst brake shops and retailers will certainly agree and recommend a $400 pair of rotors and $200 set of pads with some $90 fluid, the truth is the factory plain rotors (328mm- thats larger diameter than a 2000 model twin turbo Toyota Supra) are fine (when in spec) but the pads are quite a let down. I fitted TRW/Lucas pads, they are very cheap, but handle heat very well and dont chew the rotors unless pushed hard on a race track. The part number is CDB3130M and I paid $115 for a front set (you pay more for everything in the NT). They are still on the car now and still surprise me.
  10. Lotus seem to be doing the hard work for us, in getting good results out of the TVS superchargers (unlike the TRD aurion results, which are rather meh....) Give it time, a few of the US workshops are sorting out the bolt ons for V6 Camry's so it should trickle down the line to us. Of course, our klugers will be worth cashews by then, and if you add a performance enhancer, it'll be peanuts.
  11. Sorry David, at the start of my post I mentioned that 'I had this done middle of last year' It should have read: 'I had teh dealer replace the shaft under warranty middle of last year' So in effect, even having had it replaced, the knock seems to be coming back lightly.
  12. 2010 KX-S 2WD. Crystal Pearl, 27,000km Dealer fitted rear monitor, no steps/bars/sunroof/anything. VIP paint protection (pfffft) 3 months rego. Purchased June 2011 Paid $40,000.00 (private seller)
  13. Its amazing the difference in climate can make. I drove my kluger home to Darwin from Melbourne last year, in June (dry cool weather for NT, brass monkeys for VIC). Sitting on 130 between Coober Pedy and Marla Bore, (cruise on) it returned 10.9 (BP Ultimate) heavily loaded. Sitting on 110 from Bordertown to Adelaide (cruise on, with many overtakes of B-Doubles) it returned 9.3 Sitting on 170-180 From Tenant To Darwin overtaking everything at WOT, it guzzled like a porno star at 15.9l/100 Having basically raced the car back home in time for my sons birthday, it returned a shocking 11.9 for the 4000km journey !!!! Obeying the speed limits would have netted around 10 flat. All the above are in relatively dry and cool conditions. Now in January, the middle of the Wet season, with average humidity in the OMG range, a 130km/h trip down the highway takes 11.5 l/100 at night time!! Driving arround town ( I mean, a tankful of 98 without ever going over 80km/h for more than a minute) in Wet Season darwin, and its wearing the glass heels again sucking down 12.5-13.3 l/100 Fill up with that E10 junk from United (Either that or push 2020kg to the next BP) and its a 14.7l/100 drive around town. Now its dry season again, and around town driving is back in the 11's.
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