Rosegum

<{POST_SNAPBACK}> True, but with that said, Forced induction will work far better with EFI because of the more even fuel distribution to each cylinder. A 4afe is not carb'ed or it would be a 4afc and the 7fte is actually a 7afte. 7 is the displacement code, a is the block code, F is narrow angle valves and G is wide, t or z stand for turbo or supercharged respectively and the E is for electronic injection or C for carbed. Enough of that though, Turbo is the way to go!! a gt25 and a small front mount intercooler will give great results with minimal lag. If you have a 4afc you'll need an electric fuel pump as well as the wiring loom and ecu for the 4afe.

your timing is way out if your getting the tap your distributor has been shifted which should never happen on an EFI engine. Especially as the 4a-fe's dissy contains your tach and injector signal sensors as well. oil in the cylinders means either a valve or seal in the head is worn and leaking or the rings are stuffed and the bottom end is up for a rebuild. Difference between the 4A-GE and the FE is only a few KW's and the FE produces more torque lower down the rev range so unless you drive like me in the 4-8k rpm the FE is the better choice and will save on fuel as revs need fuel to happen. Less rev's less fuel. what year are you talking about? switching to a 7A is fairly straight forward if you have a post 95 model. if it's pre you'll have a fight on your hands. And you have to injure the engine bay and firewall just to fit a zz so forget that. The crossmember isn't big enough to handle the girth. Not to mention all the custom gear you would have to get fabricated just to strengthen the frontend enough to take the brute. Sounds like your trying to go the cheap route as it is so I'd recommend the 4A-FE or 7A if you know what you're doing.

Hey Hey, that photo is my sister's dress. Can prolly track it down if you want a revisit! Good to see your still kicking around. :D As for the clutch, it takes a man to shift it. If you can't double clutch buy a yaris. And drifting an FF looks like a dog wiping its *****, It's the snake-like bending motion effect that you get from an FR that makes drift so fun. Brentley thinks hitting lift is called craig'ing now. I think i messed him up

Engine won't run much different, just rich or lean, ecu will know that it's gone but it'll think it's broken and will report an efi flashing code. It's also illegal to remove a cat converter unless the car's never touching the road again. A higher flow cat will help improve hp, but sack torque in the process. Afermarket spark and injection is your best route for more power from these engines.

Car's inertia will keep the engine from stalling. And being in a higher gear will help keep it running as each piston stroke has more time to travel through it's cycle. If you try to accelerate from high gear in a carbed vehicle youll most likely flood it or ping due to too much fuel and air with too slow a piston movement to allow proper gas ventilation. Your ecu however reads rpm, throttle postion, ego and either air flow or manifold pressure and adjusts fuel and spark accordingly so as to avoid pre-detonation. So in a heavier gear the ecu will limit fuel until the engine is capable of producing power again. TVIS also cuts off some of the air flow into the manifold at low rpm's making it easier for the ecu to match Throttle position to fuel flow. A solenoid releases the restriction as the revs climb and flows more air through the manifold allowing higher fuel flow.

hit the wreckers with mid 90's cars i picked up a set of extractors 4 - 2 - 1, 2 1/2". It was oxyed off before the cat so i cut the old flange that met with the cat and had it welded to fit. cost me $65 for the extractors and i have a mate that welded it up for me in his spare time so i don't know what it would cost upfront. I have a pic on my office system of the ego sensor in the extractors ill post it later,it mounts straight into the exhaust at the bottom where 2 join to one.

7a-fe produces torque much lower than the 4afe . The cam profile in the 7a produces peak torque at 2800rpm and peak power at 5600rpm. 4a has peak torque at 4800rpm and peak power at 5800. if you get a jap 4afe ecu it will increase revs to 6000 and add an extra 10nm and 10hp. only 200cc difference but massive response difference. 7a-fe redlines at 7600 dont know 4a any driveres round here know? My 4afe has aftermarket ecu so i set the revlimit at 8000. never ran the engine with a stock ecu.

The previous owner must have got married. Picked up the bird in the soarer, married, sold soarer for her car. then upgraded to a camry or sumthin stupid like that. The plates worth a pretty penny on there own. Once saw a 200b sell for $35k at auction for a set of NISSAN plates. The car was scrapped. Guy walked up, unscrewed the plates and dumped the rest.

An ecu reset will return it to dribbling baby status. So if you flog the baby it'll learn bad habits, if you treat it gentle it'll be gentle on fuel it relearns within the first 50-100k's and will continue to respond in the same manner.Contrary to popular belief, computer's aren't smart, they follow a program and respond to approriate variable's. e.g engine load, throttle position, coolant temp, air intake temp,air intake velocity and so on and so forth. car's are sent out fresh from the factory reset. then are driven in the local area to accustom the car to avg air tmp, barometric pressure yada yada. once it has chosen it's base variable's it adjust fuel, and timing accordingly to maintain proper fuel mixture or VE volumetric efficiency. No need to advance timing it'll only kill performance. The ecu advances and retards the engine constantly to control smooth torque and power production. I haven't looked but is the zz series engine Coil on plug or coil pack solid state?

Welcome to the club! Another 112 in Brissie, a meet sounds like a good idea. I want a few decent photos of a lineup I've got a white levin 112, king lows, 2 cadence amps, 12" kenwood, kenwood 6"x 9"s on parcel, stock fronts on high pass crossover. Whole system was $900 odd inc cabling and connectors. Wheels are 17" BSA not sure of the series didn't pay much attention, wheels were $200 ea and tyres were $125 ea. I found the 17's scrub the plastic engine splashguard behind the wheel arch on the left handside at full right lock, as i've had no time to get under it i'm hoping i can loosen the screws and reposition the plastic if not more serious work is required. Strut's are gabriel ultra's and king low springs which cost $600. I put em in myself after the first attempt at pedders cost me an arm and a leg and ending up wearing out much quicker than expected, i couldn't be bothered going back for warranty, he would have tried to charge me more. No tint yet when i've had money there was no time and vice versa. Don't wanna go too dark just enough to kill the glare a bit. I've been contemplating moulding some skirts to suit the levin front end, I like the way the car looks already from the front, but it looks granny from the side even with big wheels. Have to organise a time for a photo shoot too. Pic of mine here too.

## BAM yesterday afternoon logan rd next to holden dealers holland park west

Do it all. Belt and tensioner everytime. If you wany longevity from your engine treat it the respect it deserves. Your engine can produce the energy in 1 hour to run your house for 2 or 3 days. That's a hell of a feat in my book. That sort of power needs to be safely harnessed all the time or it'll get expensive or dangerous.

If i ever change fuels i re-set my ecu and let it learn how to burn it. I have been using Freedom 95 and 98 in my engines for a long time now and have noticed no ill effects, and doesn't cost the arm+leg. Most of the time I use the same pump to fill up but if i have to fill up elsewhere ill go for a Freedom. Fuel choice is completely up to you. More RON means more BANG. Don't forget your car hasn't got a clue what fuel you are putting in, so revert it to baby speech and send it back to school with the right foot. I'm pretty sure the V6 would have a knock sensor so it should be able to teach itself how to run right up to the edge of ping valley but no closer. You'll hear a few pings while it's relearning don't worry if you heard it the ECU did too (or you have a faulty knock sensor). As for a reserve pressure valve i don't know i'll research a bit and see what i can find but as far as i know there isn't. The most likely culprit is the fuel pump itself. If it's worn or faulty it won't provide the engine a regulated fuel pressure, which may tell the ecu not to fire the ignition til pressure is built. Safety to avoid over-leaning. After the car has been sitting for awhile, try turning the key to on but wait a min or so before trying to ignite. If it fires straight away get a new fuel pump.

As far as i know people have been killing themselves in cars since their inception. Adding new rules won't make a car safer, even the old rules were futile at best. I myself am no angel, i learnt to drive in my mates backyard which covered fifty acres of dense scrub. His old man carved a track out around the edge of the property and my mate and i flogged a morris 1100 around it. Was about 13 at the time and it gave me confidence in my driving. 60k/hr seems real quick on a dust track as wide as the car. I also drove for 3 years without having even gotten my L's, on my own, in my dad's HQ Premier w/ 253, 2.5"inch dual exhaust, genie extractors and a 350 holley. Not once did i get pulled over by the police, and if you had known me at the time it would seem real strange as i was 4' tall and looked 10 at 16. I'd had them follow me, and drive next to me and do all sorts of wierd things but never pulled me over. I'm not saying that it's ok to drive unlicensed, it's not and it's damn stupid, but so is my father which afforded me lots of opportunity to drive vehicles others wouldn't normally without a license. Tractors, Skid-steer, forklift, D-9 and D-10 dozers, drott's and frontend loaders to mention a few. I got my license at 20 and after 2 weeks i had a speeding ticket, and then another, and then another til i was out of demerits, gaining a license didn't make me a safer driver it made me worse. Prolly cos i all of a sudden had leeway for doin something stupid. eg demerits . Maybe a semi decent solution is to remove demerits and if you are caught acting up they should just take your license, your car and ban you from driving for 3 months. Could fix traffic congestion, pollution and road death all at once by removing the roads too. Has anyone tried to go for a forklift ticket in qld since the end of july? Used to be a $130 day or two course and you were ticketed. Now your up for 40hrs logbooked work, 40hrs training and a $930 fee for the certification. The way i see it, the government say's that you're not allowed to die, and if you are going too it'll be at a ripe retired 90-100 after many dutiful years as a tax payer. Just one more thing, Accidents happen, and have been happening since the dawn of creation. No rule thought up by man can change that and it's prolly a good thing cos if we could it'd be like undoing the whole point of existence in the first place. It's fear of the unexpected that drives humans onto bigger and better things not comfort and security. Oh yeah and i think the new rules are nuts, death tolls will rise as the population rises. Law of averages. It doesn't mean that people are being less safe, there's just more of us on the roads. The new laws are way's to get more $$'s for the government coffers on the back of accidental death.

### JBM Bunnings Granard Rd Then passed by it going to Garden City way. I was in the passenger of a mates excel. I had just parked the rolla at his place so unfortunately i couldn't chase.