shittywok

Hi everyone, Thanks for reading and helping with this. Hopefully it's just a random event but I have a feeling it's not. So I have stock 2007 ZR6 sitting on BC coilovers and replaced slotted rotors. After doing a service (oil and tyre rotation) I found seven 3mm ball bearings on the ground at the front driver side wheel. Didn't notice till moving the car afterwards. When jacking up the passenger side for the tyre rotation there was a loud snap on the driver side which sounded like timber snapping under weight, I thought nothing of it as I drive up onto timber planks so I can fit the jack underneath lol. Whilst the driver side wheel was off I noticed oil clumped at the inner CV boot clamp (old though), and some at the bottom of the outer CV boot (old but some fresh coming out still so I think there's a hole there). Nothing else seemed wrong but I wasn't looking for the ball bearing mystery at this stage. A short 100m drive afterwards didn't give any hint of anything wrong. The last week or so I've had a mid ranged squeal when turning right at near full lock, probably all that CV grease loss. My question is where could these ball bearings have come from? Thanks guys and girls.

Thanks very much guys

Hi Guys, Tried looking in the forums but couldn't find any recent info on the brake pad numbers compatible for the aurions (not TRD). Bit confused as older threads say it is DB1475 for the fronts and DB1474 for the rears. Looking on the QFM catalogue it came up with this http://qfm.com.au/page/11/Members_Area?make=toyota&model=aurion&year=&series=&front=&rear= Can anyone set this straight. Thanks

Where did you guys buy the parts from, genuines? I've found a few brands, if not genuines which did you guys go for?

UPDATE - I tightened up the top mount bolt less than an 1/8th turn, today the gear changes seem less sloppy, 3rd isn't holding as long but may still be holding slightly. I've noticed when going up hill the car doesn't change down gears quite so often either (before the car would change down, pick up speed, then change up, lose a bit of speen and change down again, a lot) I'll be driving for about 1 1/2 hours tonight so I'll have a better idea later. I wanted to eliminate the options one by one so didn't reset the ECU. EDIT - Gear changes are definitely smoother and quicker, 3rd into 4th gear still holds but not as long.

There is a thick bar which runs along the back of the engine underneath and connects to my coils (seems like a sway bar), what is this called? Should there be any movement in it? I can pull on this, it moves slightly and clunks. If it shouldn't move how do I fix? Is it just a case of new rubber bushes. Thanks

Thanks guys, I'll check these. I know the Toyota fluid was used, they flushed through and didn't remove any parts for cleaning. Possibly it was low before the change and they just replaced the same amount of fluid that came out.

If you've not got this yet, yes it does have enough vaccuum holes (which is 2 - 1 large, 1 small), my DC CAI looks the same. Some of the hoses aren't used like the stock air box setup. I noticed they haven't included any little rubber caps for blocking up the vaccuum hose spots which aren't needed though . The DC one had two I think.

Hey guys, You seem knowledgable in this area. I have clunky gear changes (mainly when engine is cold), also 3rd gear holds before changing to 4th, tranmission fluid was changed at 78000k (about 3000kms ago) but it is still clunky and 3rd still holds. Can you please help me to find the mouning bolts, I want to check if the problem is these are loose. Any other things I should check? After that its a TCM change. Thanks for the help.

Thanks, I've definately been looking.

Hi, Wanting to buy a full set of TRD Aurion brakes, please PM me if you want to sell. Thanks.

Okay, like you said, WTF is with all these vaccuum hoses!!! I got everything out, understand which two hoses go into the top of the cai tubing, and understand where the first vaccuum cap goes (on the vaccuum switching solenoid), but where does the second vacuum cap go? Also what happens to all the long vaccuum hoses leading down the bottom to the engine mount?..I think i have this right ahha. Please help!

Seems to be a strong following of the black 19x9.5 5 spoke concaves recently

What do you do/use first if there is a small paint chip and the metal has started rusting?

PMed ckit288

Just double checking for the DC cia, it's the 3.5L V6 Camry version which fits the Aurion?

Would having the wheels shaved to a different offset unbalance the wheel?

I've got a different stock unit (silver plastic surround and black face which moves vertically to allow CDs in and out). Anyone know if I am able to just copy the CD onto the mini SD? Edit: copy the map CD onto mini SD

Thanks guys. Any idea on the Control arm bushings?

Do you know if it is just the case of tightening the clip to the narrow end of the rubber cover...or is this a replacement thing? Anything else I might need to know. Thank for the quick reply btw @ Tard - Yup, I've found lowering tends to cause all sorts of problems lol ^_^

Had Superpro front control bushings installed for the pull to left issue, there is a slgith gap between the main large round bushing and smaller top part, shouldn't this be completely pushed together so that dirt doesn't get into the centre of the bushing?

What is this inside the red. We're in the front passenger wheel arch, coilover is in the middle, grease is being spun onto the metal in front as well (top left of red line).

Show us a pic, I go up/down all sorts of drives in my lowered Aurion in the Perth Hills.

Would a worn front wheel bearing cause a wheel to slightly shake?

Paint the rims black with the silver outside edge left and tint the rear lights gets my vote