robmac1

My vehicle is a 2001 model and does not have front cameras. However, I believe the control for the front cameras are on the steering wheel. You may need to hold the buttons down to keep an image on the screen. Have a play around and let us know. Another good resource for Estima is here: http://www.teoc.ws/ Scroll to the bottom of the home page and select "new estima" . There are a few aussies on TEOC who have vehicles with front cameras so you could ask them. Changing head units and keeping front and rear camera working seems to be a minefield.

http://www.jpnz.co.nz/afawcs0131170/CATID=8/SUBID=137/page=1/products.html Sorry for the late reply.

Enter your Caldina serial number here: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q.html The model will be determined and a list of parts and images become available. Look up the brake section and determine the part numbers of the discs and calipers and note them down. Then go to here: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref Enter the part numbers and you will be given a list of vehicles where the same part is used. This may help in finding green stuff pads at a good price because you will know what models the pads will fit. As to interchangeability , I have no idea. Good luck.

I'm not sure what you budget is for the conversion. But it may work out a better deal to buy a purpose built import vehicle? http://www.southernspecialvehicles.com.au/cars-for-sale/?make=TOYOTA The Regius is Toyota SBV Hiace with an 2.4 L RWD configuration. It has 4 wheel discs and 4 speed auto with ECT (electronically controlled transmission). The Regius is purpose built in Japan as a Camper and typically very low k's when Sold as an import in Australia. At less than $30k they represent good value compared to the cost of high quality fit out of a local Hiace and all the work is done. Aircon and sound system included. Dual battery, beds, storage etc etc. They are also made in 4WD amnd sometimes this model turns up at the importers/seller. The link is for illustrative purposes and not a endorsement of the seller. However SSV are generally considered an OK company. You should find one of Sydney based JDM (japanese domestic market) importers resellers around your area will have something similar. The only slight hitches are insurance (Shannons insure my Estima (JDM Tarago) and parts. Parts are not really a problem, there are enough ebay contacts and dealers who will import parts for you. Being a Toyota commercial not much goes wrong anyway. The Regius is great vehicle to drive and a much higher build quality than anything locally made. A few friends used the Regius (passenger versions) as trade vehicles with the rear seat removed.

....now just to find out how to run the wires to the back, i'm thinking i have to remove the roof trim? You can run a cable under of the bottom edge of the door step trims and then inside the rear trim panel. and not having much luck finding an aftermarket remote control, http://www.wholesalecarkeys.net/ This company may be able to help. Pull the remote apart and read the number off the transmitter module and send them an email. I assume your remote is separate to keys. .

I fill with 98 the van seems to run better. My radiator cap is marked "1.1" presumably 1.1 bar, which is slightly under 16 psi. Take note of the heating. Check the electric cooling fans are working correctly. Another Estima owner in Victoria was sold a van with a weepy head gasket. So a proper leak test of the cooling system may be a good idea. Enjoy your Estima.

I'm no expert on the Tarago but the Estima ICE system is a fully integrated system. The in dash unit sends program to the drop down screen which has it's own remote. Communication is via a propriety toyota format called AVLAN (audio visual local area network) I would assume the Tarago has much the same system which is purpose built for Oz If the in dash unit has been replaced with after market then the system has been seriously hacked into and the cd/ DVD stacker may not work. The standard fix for this is to fit a aftermarket sat nav /radio/ cd player/ mp3 player to the the dash. And to fit totally seperate DVD player/ drop down screen unit to the rear of the vehicle. You may be about to test how well the dealer can meet the terms of the contact.

Hi Daniel, I assume you are talking a ACR (2.4L) OR MCR (3L) Estima. Both are available as 2WD (XXX30) OR 4WD (XXX40) Leather Interior: AFAIK there are no factory leather interiors on the range. I've seen tight fitting leather covers on a few Estimas Twin Sunroofs: Most Areas versions have this feature Power Sliding doors: It's an option - hit and miss whether vehicle that is found in Japan has them. Cruise control: Same as above. But I believe if you get face lift model (2003-2005) with drive-by-wire throttle, a Camry aftermarket CC can be fitted for around $600. Front & Rear cameras: Most have the rear cameras . Face lift model have f & rear cameras and steering wheel audio & camera controls. You could also look for a vehicle with the Optitron Dash (has a flouro tube in the dash for illumination) Thy can be identified because the dash is totally dark when the ignition off. It lights up brilliant white. Try to get a vehicle with discharge head lights (HID) headlights and proximity soanar as well. All of the Aeras models have dual aircon and some (cold climate versions) have rear heaters as well. Estima G Aeras (Aerasu) is the top line model where you are most likely to find these options. I would choose a 3L over a 2.4L and if I had my time again probably get a 4wd instead of 2wd. The V6 2wd are a bit prone to torque steer at take off if you sink the boot. If you get the 3L be aware that cam belt should be replaced at 100,000km or seven years of age. Check the engine oil is clean the V6 had a sludge problem if not maintained. Try to negotiate the purchase with two radio remote door unlock controls and check the key works in all doors as well. Also be aware the Stereo/Dvd (and the rear drop down screen) is designed for Japanese NTSC standard, So Aust DVDs won't play and the sat nav won't work and can't be economically converted to Aust maps. You will need a band expander to tune the full FM band. They have an audio input so you can play audio from an Iphone. They are a fantastic vehicle and the build quality and features leave the Aust Tarago for dead. You could do worse than visit an Importer based in Abbotsford. Jon is a man of his word and has "honest" vehicles. EDIT: No rear seats don't have isofix. Just the bolt in the floor.

If it's like an Estima (Japanese Tarago) you need to program the key "chip" into the body ECU. This needs the correct programmer. The cheapest way is take your working key to a "Mister Minute" and have both the key cut and chip duplicated, It cost me $70 all up.

Remove that bloody ugly spare wheel from the tail gate. It dates the vehicle to the Willys Jeep era. Whoops - should have read the entire thread.

I've seen early Taragos pimped up like this: http://forum.jdmstyletuning.com/showthread.php?38733-Little-old-Toyota-Tarago.....V8 It should be even easier with the wider engine bay of a Hiace! I bet the Tarago surprises a few people. Harrop performance make the engine to gearbox adaptor kits and engine mount kits.

Mine is 2001 V6 Shannons insure agreed value $20k for a yearly premium of $829.00 . We have two Rating 1 "listed" drivers. I have try Shannon's but when they ask me does your mum go to car shows I say : no then they wouldn't insure the car tell me to ring justcar LOL, should I try again say : yes see what happen..? Conditions are: Private usage, $550 basic excess, $1500 excess for under 25 not listed on certificate. Garaged. Shannons only have one listing for the V6 Estima, so you must select 2000 and ask the Sales staff to note the year in the text of the Policy. Tell 'um you collect Gogomobiles, Puchs or anything classic car. Tell 'um you are member of the Toyota Forum and love the classic Toyota. The will insure you , just sound convincing, after all a Policy is Sale and Sales are what they are after. I happen to own (and have restored) a 1969 Peugeot 404 , which is with them as well. So it was easy.

Mine is 2001 V6 Shannons insure agreed value $20k for a yearly premium of $829.00 . We have two Rating 1 "listed" drivers. Conditions are: Private usage, $550 basic excess, $1500 excess for under 25 not listed on certificate. Garaged. Shannons only have one listing for the V6 Estima, so you must select 2000 and ask the Sales staff to note the year in the text of the Policy.

I actually think the 2.4l is reasonable pokey. What one needs to remember is that I've moved from a 1988 Tarago RV 2.2l 5 speed manual to this 97 model. I find it more than adequate. Is mine a TCR12? Is there a list anywhere that tells me what TCR12, and TCR 11 etc are? Open the bonnet and look inside the engine bay (inside the passenger side front mudguard up towards the windscreen) you will see an aluminium stamped body plate with the model and VIN details. The various Toyota Tarago models are described in detail here: http://www.goauto.co...ta&model=Tarago The TCR12 was the GLS model with the fully independent rear end. This model ceased after 1992?? because of expense of manufacture. The TCR 20 series are the all trac part time 4wd. The TCR10 was the early model solid rear axle The TCR11 was the later model of the TCR10, still with solid rear axle, but with airbags and trim enhancements. If you think the 2.4 is pokey you should try a MCR30 with 3L (1MZFE) Camry engine! And I still get around 10.5 km/l We started with early Tarago too. It was a good vehicle.

"Clicking" in the exhaust is pretty normal for a lot of cars after a long drive. The smell may the the detergent burning off after the pressure clean preparation for sale. Provided the temperature gauge sits in the middle of the scale then it should not be overheating. The TCR series, especially the TCR12 with the fully independent rear end are a magic car. However the 2.4 is definitely a bit under powered IMO. In the USA they were fitted a clutched supercharger, but we never saw this model in Australia. I still prefer the handling of my previous RWD TCR12 to my current FWD MCR30. However the V6 is really nice. The perfect combo would have been the 200 hp V6 in the old egg! Good luck and enjoy!

Pete, ND electrics are very reliable. I'd be looking at a connection on ECU plug. Unplug the connector and re-plug a few times. That should remove any oxidation on the pins. After that I'd check each and every wire crimp of the plug. Perhaps get it running and jiggle each wire in in turn (use a pair of tweezers) until the fault shows up. You may need to carefully cut the wiring loom covering tape to be able to jiggle the wires individually. FWIW I'm still diagnosing a dicky connection rather than faulty ECU. Never be tempted to spray the connection with a lube or cleaning spray. More problems will ensue.

The TCR series engines are quite different to the ACR/MCR engines. Your Estima engine is 2AZFE (2.4) or 1MZFE (3.0), Davo. I wouldn't judge the design too harshly: most TCRs are in the 200k-300k mark and have had a few owners. The sludge in the radiator is caused by a lack of maintenance or lack of the correct coolant. The TCR engines generally last well provided they are not overheated or run when low in oil.

I've always had a good run out of Yokohama C drive. Mainly on a Tarago 'tho. They are quiet. Good for wear if not flogged and have very good wet weather braking and grip. They are also silent. They do get a bit slippery towards the end of their life, but so do many tyres.

I would be searching the DIY wreckers near you. ECUs are generally very reliable unless they are drowned or physically damaged. So you have a pretty good chance of finding a good unit. How did you diagnose a faulty ECU as your problem?

The whistle is a small exhaust leak in the flange gasket. Most people live with it and accept the noise as a TCR Tarago foible. I had a 1990 TCR 12 for seven years and whistle was always present and never got any worse. Our dog would hear the whistle and start barking as soon as I approached the end of our street. Check the cooling system has coolant (not water) and is clean. If not a radiator removal and clean is a good idea on a 240k Tarago. Provided you keep the vehicle full of oil and water and service regularly you should have no problems.

I'm guessing they are no go? Fuse, wiring, or sonar sensor ECU. A detailed description of the fault helps diagnosis. I'm guessing a wiring issue, based on the general reliability of Nippondenso electronics. Probably not a fuse because there are no reports or other stuff not working. Are all the connectors ie plug & sockets firmly pushed home? I don't have a wiring diagram for a Prado, only Tarago and Previa. If you have or had a rear step with the side upstands the reversing sonar may have been de-programmed. Was it working ? Did it stop? Driving in water?

I assume you purchased the Kluger off the dealer who is servicing it or is it still under some kind of Toyota Warranty? Regardless, I wish you all the best in getting it repaired at minimum cost and inconvenience. FWIW , some googling suggests that the Toyota Highlander (very similar vehicle to the Kluger in other countries) have a low level head gasket issue that usually shows up at less than 100,000km.

See post #11 in this thread. http://www.teoc.ws/c...age__hl__cruise Also see post #18 which states the stalk isn't OEM Toyota. The images are attached. This was fitted to 2004 JDM Estima Import

http://www.erisin.com/page.html?id=74 Ersin are based in Australia as well and substantially cheaper than Elinz. Ersin ship to Australian destination free of charge and have an identical product range. It's the difference between dealing with a reseller (Elinz) and a manufacturer (Ersin).

If the white smoke is oil- The car over full with oil The stem seals on the valves are worn. The piston rings are worn The pcv (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is blocked Oil will produce "blue" smoke not white. Most likely if it is only for a few minutes, as Kenshin stated, it is more than likely condensation. If it persists for a greater period of time then there is a possibility there are larger issues at hand, but lets not jump the gun. Under load oil will usually burn "blue" due to more complete combustion. At idle, when combustion is incomplete, oils can burn "white". Synthetic and semi synthetic oils burn with different colours (and smells) to mineral oils. Mineral oils create the classic "blue haze" behind the vehicle. I agree with you in so much it's not likely that such a new vehicle has serious problems. But since it has just been purchased a degree of caution is prudent.