nzzr6

12 minutes ago, ZZT86 said:

Scary stuff.

I was quoted 4 hours to do this job by my dealer before I bought my Aurion & reckons it's a fairly straight forward job & engine doesn't come out. Like Tony said, they've screwed up somehow, most likely an incompetent apprentice or novice who doesn't know cars. Real scary. Document everything just in case something goes wrong after you get your car back.

I had mine done at a non dealer mechanic, they told me the guy doing the job was an experienced ex-Toyota tech. Took them just about the whole day to do the job from me dropping the car off to picking it up. Although I'm not sure if they started on it first thing in the morning or later on. Goes without any issues though. 

I'd be asking well north of 30k, with 4500km this is an extremely rare example and worth holding out for the right buyer.

On 10/11/2021 at 1:18 PM, Priyantha said:

Hi all,

 

I am planning to replace the drive belts of RAV4 2011

Where can I buy the belt? DO I have to replace the tensioner also?

 

Any comments?

Unless you have an issue with the tensioner, there is no need to replace it. On the 2GR-FE this is an automatic tensioner. I've found that for things like belts and filters the cost of a genuine Toyota part is not much more or the same as aftermarket from the likes of Ebay. You're always better to go genuine if you can. 

13 hours ago, Jess03 said:

The last week, when I come to a stop at lights or in traffic it feels like something is dragging when take off, pulled the brakes off yesterday to check all Thant and the calliper piston, but didn’t check the park brake as never played with them before and didn’t know where to look. 

Did you check if the rear rotors were dragging? Park brake might need adjusting. 

Pull the rear wheels off and you'll see a rubber bung on the rotor hat. Remove that, line it up with the little gear wheel at the bottom (you will need a torch), and use that to adjust the resting position of the park brake shoes. You want to wind it up all the way with the footbrake OFF so that the rotor can't move, and then back it off a bit until it can spin freely. 

I have an old map disk if you're interested. Its fairly out of date though. 

24 minutes ago, Henstepper said:

Any suggestions on a replacement? I I've only seen ones worth over $1,000 and I don't want to pay that

 Android based headunits are popular replacements and have carplay/android auto etc - check them out on ebay

Seems upon further digging, it would have been the same head unit fitted to US Camry models, which had phone controls on the steering wheel that could be used for pairing a phone via bluetooth. Obviously we didn't get these on our Australian built Aurions so you can't actually use it 😞 

This head unit, despite having a BT symbol, actually has no bluetooth functionality as far as I'm aware. At least none thats available to the user. Ref Page 136-151 of the owners manual... Only the sat nav headunit from this model year does. And that only supports bluetooth calling, not music streaming from your phone etc. 

https://toyotamanuals.com.au/docs/aurion-owners-manual-may-07-may-09/ 

624 is the latest build number i have seen. A handful were made into 09 with the extremely rare tungsten blue colour available. 

Must be a 2007, there are no 2006 TRDs....whats the build number? 

I'm pretty sure my old 2003 camry had no error built in whatsoever. What you saw on speedo was what you got

Nice, what'd those set you back if you don't mind me asking? I remember i just about fell over the time i went into my local dealership to enquire on the price for a left hand TRD headlight.... 

9 hours ago, campbeam said:

These instructions to remove the belt tensioner assembly got me thinking.

I did not recall doing those steps when I replaced the water pump and repacked the bearing on the tensioner. I must have just removed the tensioner pulley [clockwise] only instead of the whole tensioner assembly.

Looks like I have got another mission to do some research on replacing the tensioner assembly.

This is the link to the Forum thread about replacing the Aurion Water Pump. My post on April 8 links a relevant YouTube video and an instructions attachment.

I had forgotten that I taken about 8 hours over 2 days but I was moving at my own pace and not racing for a deadline. Positive that other DIYs could easily do this within 4 hours. Having the right tools for tight spaces will make the job easier. Even better, if you already have them on hand. 

https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/57637-specialised-tools-for-tight-access/

 

Yeah, i realised when i was doing it that an alternator job would be the ideal time to do a tensioner replacement. Pretty straightforward once you have that and the compressor out of the way

1. Remove radiator support

2. Tilt radiator forward

3. Remove alternator (x3 bolts)

4. Undo A/C Compressor (x4 bolts), set to the side and use a bungy cord to tie it out of the way, do not disconnect any lines

5. Remove tensioner assembly (x5 bolts)

🙂 

10 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

You would be correct. They don't form part of the actual exhaust. They are purely cosmetic and if you do happen to look underneath, you will see the tailpipe centrally mounted just inside this vent. The tailpipe doesn't make contact with it.

Though I guess the downside is that cars with real vents (where the exhaust pipes actually form part of the bumper) it gets dirty very quickly. I find myself washing them every couple of weeks

On 7/20/2021 at 5:54 PM, Metal_Head said:

I seen one of these sportivo today & particularly noticed half the muffler shows along with the entire tip from a side on view. The tip would have to be welded straight onto the muffler or would look funny, if ya know wat I mean

I wonder if a Mercedes diffuser could be grafted on.... 

pretty sure those are just fake tacked on vents, the real exhaust pipes are under the bumper. Least, thats what Audi, mercedes and every other euro manufacturer seems to be doing nowadays

7 hours ago, Metal_Head said:

Don't put any grease on the studs, this will cause too much torque. 

110nm is what I do them up, and even then it doesn't feel enough. It seems cars made for spririted driving require more torque such as 86's

Torque spec for the TRD is the same as it is for a regular Aurion, that sort of surprised me

48 minutes ago, TAProdigy 2009 said:

Hi Nzzr6

I bought the car second hand and did not come with the service manual. I wonder service manual to download from the web.

Aurion specific service manual can be downloaded from the Toyota Australia manuals website for a fee. Think its because by law they have to make these available to workshops

Otherwise, the American V6 Camry service manual is freely available on the web and is mechanically very similar to the Aurion one save for cosmetic differences etc.

But that being said, I think you'll have to take it in to Toyota or someone with the equipment to read the error codes that is logged in the AC module.... 

although i guess i should clarify, you won't have a problem seeing that screw when the headlight is not in the car. You just can't access it when its mounted, hence why they provide the access hole to adjust the low beam. 

Don't try looking for the low beam screw, you won't find it

You need to push a long philips head screw driver down through and turn the hidden screw to adjust.

I believe this indicates a diagnostics code for the AC system. There will be an explanation of it in the service manual

Am starting to see more reports of people being turned down for free dash replacements now though. Think the goodwill period is over 

Check fuses. 

2 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

Thanks NZ ! It's far far smoother & more detailed than my old DR650 (time for a change), possibly even better than my 2K Viofo cams although I would need to compare back to back. Ideally it still needs to be better at night though to pick up plates & faces, I guess it'll get better with time & more $$ thrown at it by the manufacturers.

I was keen to get the 4K cams last year but thought it was too soon for 4K adoption, especially given the huge file sizes & the SD cards required & they get hot. I'm already using a 256GB card on my Viofo.

Reckon you're onto something there with regard to interference, the BV rear cams do use a coax cable as opposed to power for the cheap Viofo A119, even their 4K 2CH cams use a USB. Their newest A139 changes that.

ps: bright head lights !

BV has just released the DR750X Plus with supposedly an improved image sensor, could be worth checking out?

Yeah headlights are great, aussie Stedi LEDs 🙂