nzzr6
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Posts posted by nzzr6
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2 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:
Did you message him ? I think he's avoiding International shipping like Europe, Asia and the Americas. I suspect if you contact him he may ship it to you being our Ozzie Neighbour. I think postage to N.Z. has become expensive too. The world has truly gone kooky.
yeah I might give that a go 🙂
Unfortunately seems like the range of oil filter wrenches in NZ is rather crap... Mostly seem to be all the aluminium ones that warp the moment you try and remove any filter that isn't on hand tight!!
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Yeah, looks like they just don't offer postage outside of Australia...
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21 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:
Here's the link for my tool if you're interested. You have to pay at least $50 for a decent one. The "SQ" denotes that it also has a provision for a 3/8" ratchet drive through the centre, if you don't have the 19 mm socket. Most would but this is the added redundancy, which I didn't mind paying extra for. The standard version of this is $35 with no 3/8" drive, only the 19mm Hex.
Cheers! Bugger that theres no postage to NZ though 😞
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16 minutes ago, campbeam said:
Sure that it was a Highlander i.e. Kluger in Australia. Cowl removal needs to be done on the Aurion so you can access to the rear bank of the engine.
Good idea to replace the ignition coils when you replace the spark plugs which should be long life double iridiums.
Hmm, I don't think i removed the wiper cowl for the two Aurions ive done spark plug changes for. One was a NA other was a TRD, you should have enough room to get the plugs out without removing the cowl 🙂
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Thats a pretty solid looking housing removal tool... Need to get a new one after multilating the socket hole getting a stuck filter off the Rav
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On 4/1/2021 at 11:51 AM, Mikstylo said:
Now, the ECM that needed to be replaced cost $1990 and is located in Japan and would need to be shipped here which would take 2-3 weeks.
wtf ! Remind me to never get a head unit fitted there 😲
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1 hour ago, Bigmike62 said:
My 2009 Aurion I think has had its dash replaced by its previous owner, I wasn't sure at first, but the replacement fit isn't perfect..it dosent look like machine done..no stickynes so far as yet. But if it does start to melt, I will replace it at cost if need be, I couldn't stand that on my car..
Mine is the same, but it was done for free and is better than a melting dash... Even though Toyota here really had no obligation to do so, so I can't complain 🙂
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I believe QLD Police ran a fleet of TRD Aurions in the past for highway duties too
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On 2/5/2021 at 9:55 PM, campbeam said:
Looks like the 40 Series Aurion 2006-2011 use the 7PK2090 length belt. I would anticipate this is because the power steering pump is driven by the serpentine belt instead of being electric.
7PK2875 for TRDs, manual says to change this every 90,000 kms
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7 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:
Ouch !! Brings back memories when I stupidly missed the little bit of info on the oil filter housing which stated to tighten it to 25nm not 2500nm !!
But for Toyota service to miss this is pretty bad. I'm suspecting the apprentices may be the ones doing this without the proper guidance.
I went through a few removal tools as mine was stuck on good and proper. My Plan B was buying a new Genuine Filter housing in case I had to mutilate it, but thankfully the OMIK removal tool saved the day.
Remember this Thread ?
https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/57498-aurion-oil-filter-housing-removal/
Sure do!!
I was thinking of swapping over to an aluminium housing as I've got a spare one for my Aurion and I'm pretty sure they're the same. Have just put the plastic housing back on for now..... Not gorilla tight.
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I just went to do an oil and filter change on our Rav that's been serviced exclusively by Toyota for the past five years. I now need to buy a new cap wrench as my impact gun has pretty much multilated the socket hole. Not even a breaker bar would budge it. I don't think I'll be back.
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7 hours ago, campbeam said:
Water pump replacement is all finished. Took me another 6 hours this morning. Spent a lot of time triple checking that all 16 bolts on the water pump were properly torqued. i could have saved some time by raising the engine more so that the water pump pulley could be removed. This would have made accessing the 2 bolts a lot easier. There is a stud for the thermostat housing which I did not bother to remove using an E6 socket. This would have saved a few minutes but easy to work around.
Serpentine belt was in very good condition. I had previously given it the Aerospace 303 treatment so gave it some more after I refitted it. Both idler pulleys and the tensioner pulley were in good condition so did not need to be re-lubricated.
Replaced water pump had the Toyota mark, so I presume that it could have been original. Interesting in that the weep hole was blocked so this could have contributed to the bearing going bad.
I'm assuming you did the job through the side access hatch?
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9 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:
That's very possible because the engine mount can be seen as an integral piece in the chassis and if there was some degree of "looseness" then I would believe it would amplify its way around and induce some vibration into the drivetrain.
Was it easy to undo the engine mount nuts ? Did you torque them to spec or just a good old fashioned put yer back into it ?
Fairly easy with an impact gun, theres three nuts underneath, two accessed through holes in the subframe. Top 19mm nut i used a wrench spanner as could not get a socket on it. Just gave it the ol "thats not going anywhere" torque 🙂
13 minutes ago, campbeam said:I spent a Saturday afternoon and a frustrating hour to get that pesky bolt undone back in 2015
I have put the following post on October 2017 [refer page 4] to the test and it works. Now just a simple task to put the vehicle up on ramps then access that bolt without having to undo the transmission mount and jack it up for access to that bolt.
Loose engine mounts can be one cause for feeling vibrations in the steering wheel.
Took me multiple tiny turns with an offset ring spanner to get that bolt out once the trans was jacked up, fortunately theres not much torque on those bolts so breaking them loose isn't a problem. Happy anyway to have killed two birds with one stone.... The shift quality has improved markedly, next time I do an oil change I'll drop the fluid again and do another refill.
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I used to have this wheel vibration at 110 km/h, had the wheels balanced twice and new CV axles. Couple days ago I changed my transmission filter which meant dropping the pan, and undoing the trans mount so I could jack it up. Did the job, put everything back together and retightened the engine mounts I took off. Now theres no vibration?? Would a loose or not tight enough engine mount cause wheel vibration?
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I believe you can program new keys with Techstream as well 🙂
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33 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:
I'd be interested to find out more about this. Can you elaborate on what you have and where I could get it ?
I got one of these:
Used it to change my headlight sensitivity - they come on far too late in my opinion. Compared to the 50 series the 40 series options are pretty limited. I did change my keyfob boot release from a 2 second hold to a single press, and enabled double unlocking. I might have a look around today for those parking sensor options, I'm sure I came across them. It might have just been to change the volume of them.
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I don't want to say for certain, but, when I was messing around with Techstream on my car I saw some options for the parking sensors. Not sure if any of those control the sensitivity/activation distance. Can't remember. I didn't really spend too long on that screen.
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Lots of different head units on ebay that will suit our Aurions, hard to say without seeing one in particular. However I would probably find one with Android Auto or Apple carplay so you can use Google maps through your smartphone.
I'm still running the old factory 4-stacker GPS unit in my car lol. I know you can get those massive Tesla style screens that replace both the headunit and the A/C controls too.
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23 minutes ago, donnot said:
Shipping was free through prime since it was sold directly through Amazon (outlet) overseas. There's always the risk that something isn't genuine, but Amazon is miles ahead of eBay if I had to deal with that.
I think the awful state of my desk should throw out any OCD rumours 😆
What does Prime cost you? Every time i buy off amazon it costs a small fortune in shipping to New Zealand 😬
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Here's what mine looks like. This is on a 3500 SL, so ZR6 equivalent
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The spring seat as I recall only inserts into the strut in one way (it has protrusions ), so you can't really get placement of the spring wrong 🙂
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2 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:
TRD versions are different ?
its shaped differently as the standard one would foul on the accessory belt due to the supercharger. They did put out a revised rubber one but if you want the all metal replacement you gotta get it from Lotus
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On 12/24/2020 at 12:19 PM, campbeam said:
It is heat and pressure and the quality of the rubber hoses. The oil cooler pipes when they leak are replaced by Toyota.
It is a different matter for the rear VVTi oil pressure line which is no longer covered by Toyota. There was a Technical Service Bulletin released in 2008/2009? and a kit provided to the dealerships to replace the rubber mid-section with upgraded rubber specification hose section. This must have been a workaround until full metal pipe was able to be supplied. Due to the length of this pipe, you need to make sure that the mid-section is bolted to avoid potential breakage due to vibration.
Oil cooler pipes are a different. The OEM rubber hoses were of a higher specification. Yet they still developed seepage or a pin hole leak.
I have already had the "joy" and expense of replacing the rear VVTi oil line.
In the meantime, I am keeping a watchful eye on these oil cooler pipes.
@matt36415 Toyota must love you more than me to send you letters to come in for a replacement.
For TRD owners there is no metal replacement from Toyota either...
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i'm at 152,000 kms and assuming its still the original alternator. Not looking forward to this job when it comes up
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Aurion water pump
in Aurion / TRD Aurion Club
Posted
I don't like reusing things like O-rings if I can help it, always replace, but each to their own of course 🙂
When I had my water pump replaced it came with new O-rings. Wasn't making noise but it was weeping coolant so probably didn't have much more to go in it.