Kinezo

Looks exactly the same as mine that fit an ATX. Should be right

http://photos-h.ak.instagram.com/hphotos-ak-xaf1/10576159_279595852232015_324872048_n.jpg It's drift spec at the moment. Honestly I don't mind hahaha, I can push trolleys out the way and not give a ****. Ebay's got chinese ones for $130pp and my friend can paint it for $100. The plastic liner under the car took most of the damage. I just stitched it up with cable ties.

Only time I have seen this happen is in my old Camry when we had severe flooding in Melbourne. Once the belts/compressor were wet it would begin to flash. Not exactly sure but it would be some place to start ;)

So I just destroyed a fox at 100kph, anyone got a spare front bumper? Not too fussy on detail, if its not white ill just paint it. As long as it's not in two pieces like mine ;) GSV40

Careful buying early models because of the faulty/low quality oil hoses. (2006 and 2007 specically)

The lights go through the ECU, if there was a short or no current etc I would presume it would throw the CEL light.

17,000km's done on modern (pehaps genuine) oil. I've seen plenty of 15,000km engine oil changes and no sludge. Should be right, right?

Really comes down to: If you break it, can you be bothered swapping in a new tranny? Take a look at http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/36317-transmission-servicing/ Pretty much the complete guide on how to change the fluids. Also take a look at http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/45224-u660e-transmission-service/ TRD Aurion, changing the fluid at 189k kms and it looks quite fresh even for the age. The next time you take an Aurion taxi, ask the driver how many k's hes done and see if he has changed the tranny fluid ;)

I use to run my stockies at 36-40. Probs a little too firm but I liked the response with the tyres I had on it. Im running RE002's at the moment (245 45 r17) at 40psi. Grippy :)

30-36 on the stockies should be fine. We own 3 Aurions (One AT-X and Two ZR6's) and they all drive pretty much the same, except mine (AT-X) with a 23mm rear sway bar. All 3 cars have had a harsh life on dirt roads up to 220k kms and the shocks are doing fine. Perhaps you have a faulty shock or faulty bush? Check if any of them have oil/leaky seals/torn rubbers etc. That's a good indicator that they might be dead. The ride quality is about the same as a Magna and older generation Camrys (97-03). I probably wouldnt compare a Commodore to the Aurion as the suspension setup is different. I read that the Omega/Berlina's are the 'comfort rides' and the SV6, SS, SS V, Calais, Calais V are the 'sporty' rides.

You could run it out the glove box, or through the centre console (where the shifter is). You could even drill a hole somewhere and put a 3.5mm female jack in to make it neat. It's pretty easy to pull it all apart. You might find a guide somewhere on this forum if you search. Something along the lines of: 1) Pull top center air con vent forward (whole assembly + clock comes out forwards) 2) Lift up centre console cover where the glove box lid shuts. You will see the line of where it joins. It's all pin loaded joints. 3) 4 bolts (2 top 2 bottom) of head unit and lift forward.

Pretty sure this should be suitable: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-5mm-Jack-Aux-Audio-Mp3-Input-Cable-For-Toyota-Camry-Carolla-Highlander-Prado-/181401244171?pt=US_MP3_Player_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2a3c5b520b

My car from cold to hot stays between the low and full indicators of the coolant container. If I fill it up to the top, I can see once the engine warms up it leaks out the cap. I have never seen it dry. (175,000KMs)

Definitely look for the upgraded metal pipe once our cars start to hit wreckers (or if Toyota decide to bring down the $220 price tag). It's held up for about 30,000km's but better to be sure than sorry ;)

I went to Bursons (local parts store in Vic), told the guy I required a hose with a bend in it and showed him the broken one. He didnt have any and he suggested to go to Purtek (hose/fitting specialists) but I didnt have time. So he happily suggested a brass 90 degree fitting (male on both sides) and gave me a lenth (around 6 inches of oil hose) with four hose clamps. I cut the 6 inch hose into about two 2.5" lengths, slid them up the metal pipes on the existing assembly (past the metal rim stoppers), held the 90 degree brass fitting in place and slid down the hoses to form a connection. Tighen clamps and you got yourself a cheap fix. If you ever fixed a PVC drain pipe from damage, very similar to that process. You're going to need some muscle to push the hoses past the stopping point, and it's a very tight position.

If your amp has a high level input, you can piggy back a signal from one of the rear speakers. Just solder/crimp/tie a cable onto the speaker in the boot and make sure you run them to high level input. This wont affect sound quality of the speaker as the amp takes no load from it. If you dont have a high level input for your amp, best to upgrade your head unit (or amp). I'm one of the few thats running a Toyo headunit: [Toyota HeadUnit] --> [4CH Line Out Converter] -- > [4CH AMP to aftermarket speakers] --> [MONOBLOCK to Sub]

You can purchase a plug in cable to the existing head unit for AUX. Just search for them on ebay. Regarding installing a 2010 headunit into a 2007, it'll be fine. I think I am running a 2009 Yaris Headunit in my 07 Aurion. Bluetooth works well, just remember to PARK THE CAR AND NOT BE TRAVELLING to sync up your phones. For a while I thought it wasnt working because I would sync it while driving Something along the lines of the yaris not having speed sensors etc with the steering wheel controls. Oh and check out the sticky's, you will find guides on how to dismantle the head unit.

91 - fine. 95 - fine. e10 - fine. 98 - fine. 100 (from united) - fine. I personally use Injected LPG. Even with the cooling effect of liquid LPG injection, I cant tell the difference between LPG(110) and 91...

You could try removing the negative terminal for 10 minutes to reset the ECU and try again. Worth a shot ;)

Get a 23mm sway bar, your car will actually go where you point it

I got my wheels powdercoated at GB Powdercoating @ $20 per wheel. This included a coat of paint and clear coat. They are located in Thomastown. There was one imperfection within one of the wheel nut wells but I dont really care for $20. Here's how they look: http://photos-h.ak.instagram.com/hphotos-ak-xpf1/10375495_497263157069319_217933458_n.jpg You'll need to get them sandblasted prior to powdercoating. Danednong Abrasive Blasting did mine for $25 a wheel.

6x9 all round

Speaking from a 2007 Aurion: 1) Remove C pillar plastic cover and slide forward (just pull, they use plug clips) 2) Lift up parcel shelf cover ((just pull, they use plug clips) 3) 10mm bolts for speakers.

Any particular pages you need?

Just in case you still need this: 1) Remove wheel. 2) Remove brake caliper. 3) Remove rotors. 4) Hammer suspected bult inwards to remove. 5) Insert new wheel stud into slot, use a spacer (couple of washers etc) and wheel nut to pull it into the slot. Apply tension to wheel nut until the bolt is completly in. 6) Assemble rotor. 7) Assemble caliper. 8) Assemble wheel.