Bry

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Sure is, I just stuck the plug back in for the photo....

http://members.iinet.net.au/~bryone/RUKUS/RukusHUplug.jpg Top row, Green is reverse sense Bottom row - Black (Gnd), Red (6V out for factory cam), White (video -ve = AV plug shield), Yellow (video +ve = AV center core) Hope it helps.

I just took my one of those out today and adapted the factory cam to the JVC head unit (factory is a 6V camera). You'll need to have the reverse sense wire run in, and the AV lead split to go into the head unit. Probably best to take the 12V feed for the camera from the reversing light at the back, only thing I see being an issue is that the plate lights we have are different due to the keyless entry system to the the Scion XB, mine (2010 build 3) has two small wedge lamps with small housings. I don't think that fits.... If you want I'll get the pins, you need to connect too... My build 3 didn't have the internal nav either. One thing though, so far with -just- the head unit replaced, what a damn difference, night and day... now for the tinsey 8" under the drivers seat the SPS-610C for the doors and the dynamat for doors and tyre well ( biggest tinny area around!). Projects don't you love em! :)

Looked at these, friend has similar in his SP23, run a windows base and selects modes for mapping and audio, his has been ok, occasionally resets into Chinese (he knows where to push on the characters to reset), the mapping has been the biggest issue as being an import unit as he cannot locate the software for the upgrade for the maps for his unit. Sound wise, it's ok. I'd be making sure they can provide exact contact information for upgraded maps down the track. Connection wise it looks pretty straightforward and the Rukus has got heaps of room under the dash for the antennas and such. I ended up with a KWAV61BT for mine was hunting for the Alpine but got the JVC for a good deal. I think the best thing about your unit, is that you shouldn't need the "ears" to fit the dash space! Lets know how it works out.

Well, you won't end with a footwell fulla figures like I did nutting out.. So I guess 1/2 - 2hr max. Using my supplies you'd go to head unit constant easy to get to, and all other wires are at the wheel! O and you cut the sensor plug off slip the wires through the dash, mount the sensor and reconnect the plug. Got my kits through Amazon, pretty quick and cheap as well.

Part 2 of the day! Been wanting to do the auto headlights kit to the car since I got it, really annoys me that the lights don't turn off with ignition, did with the RAV. Using the DEI 545T module, took all the wires out of the loom that I didn't require, you can set it up for continual lights on or have so the ambient light sensors works. I took out the wiper and alarm activation wires, which left me with the constant, ignition sense and ground out of the main plug. the second small plug is the relay activation loom, I used the DEI relays because they came with it, but really you could go for micro relays as there's no substantial current requirement. The kit with the two main looms with just required wires. The red wire in the module that I cut disables the headlights being on all the time. Sensor position, the car's got a neat recess for the light sensor. When you take the panel on the right under the start switch off, I simply sat the module with double sided tape flat to the plastic below the opening and mounted the relays on the metal strap just inside. When the steering wheel cowl is off I accessed the wires from the lighting switch direct. You switch ground with the relays, so connect both brown/violet to ground (they'll have the fuses on them) and put green (from DEI relay) to the black wire at pin 4 which switches the headlights, and pin 9 to the blue (from DEI relay) which switches the park lights. Best thing, unlike the Swift which I did last week, if the lights are activated by the module you can use high beam without having to switch the headlight circuit in (ie. turn lights on manually). The ECU picks up lights are on and allows high beam to work. I took ignition sense from the wiper block on the plug on the left hand underside of the wheel and it's the blue wire there. Really pleased, as you don't need to touch light switch at all. I've got an illuminated round rocker switch coming to place in one of the four panel switch placements so you can sit with motor running and disable the auto circuit. Do that by switching the ignition feed to the module.

Had some time to kill, so I got around to fitting the auto mirror and auto headlights module, took awhile but here's some pics. I got the Toyota Yaris one, it's the same part number on eBay but cheaper. (no's PT370-02090) Auto mirror features cool, the tint on rear window doesn't affect operation, and not having to touch to adjust is great, it just dims all the rear lights to a green tinge and not so bright. Two mirrors, auto mirror slightly bigger. Auto mirror has a LED downlight for the gearshift, if you've gone for different colors inside, probably better to get one without it, I've got the ultrabright whites in the mapreaders but a really bright amber for the door light so it blends in. Fitted to the windscreen, tighten with a T20 torx. Fit the wire cover to the headliner. Run the wire along the headliner and down the A pillar. Hooked up to the accessory line, I used cigarette lighter (grey wire) and chassis ground at bottom of kick panel).

Rather leave it on for morons who can't drive and swipe the end of my cars in shopping center carparks....... Some reciprocal damage can be given!

Well, 3 hours and a tow kit fitted... don't have to take the whole rear bumper of like Toyota say in the fitting literature, gotta admit with the tounge in place it looks odd, but I'll only fit it when I actually need to tow something, so I'll just add a socket to the tool kit to help put it on! Original Toyota parts off Ebay Oz for $520, was quoted over double that for a workshop fit! The Kit.. That's just the metal bits... There's another bag with the the tow ECU and bolts. Fitted without tounge. Won't need to tow often, but nice to have the facility.

Hmm... although I'm only a recent addition to the forum, but, likewise, on the sound deadener. I imagine with the Ruckus it will make a bigger difference than it did to the C30! Dynamat all the way! 'spensive stuff.... Wheels and suspension later, never did mention to the wife the extra cost!

I'm debating Crypt, I'm getting the stereo first, then the DRL's. With the auto light circuit fitted, I'll hook them straight to the main lights for the switched feed and they'll be auto on/half with the light. By the time you factor in delivery, it's around $250. Option B is to see how much the factory one's in the 2013's cost, but I'd imagine it'd be that amount per side!

I like these... http://tinyurl.com/mzxlkuh Fits in and has the dimming electronics as well... pricey but nice.

Thanx guys, Colour? Don't know what it is called, says blue on the paperwork, in certain light it does, otherwise it looks grey. Concession I've made to get, is that it needs a towball and I've got a cover for the rear lip to stop it getting scratched more... last owner I expect. Still under warranty, but nothing needs attending too, so that's plus. Mirror? I've got this one coming... http://tinyurl.com/jwjqgmq, comes up the same part number as TRD's. Went to order from there and found it requires Bongo... I have no experience with the forwarding company, any issues/tricks I should know of? The mirror comes with down lighting for the shifter. The C30 I had, had this also kinda cool. The head unit that's going in is one of these, http://www.alpine.com.au/showItem.php?item_id=283, neat unit, it's got internal Bluetooth, the one out of the Rav (IDXA305i) needed a separate module. I've got to nut out how the small rear sub runs (input wise) if it takes a summed input of the speaker level channels, I might disconnect the factory amp and run a small dedicated amp off the sub output of the Alpine for a bit more control. Kinda waffles a bit at the moment, no independent control. (Audio electronics background helps... ) Only a 6" admittedly and a box would give more and much better output, but if it's there, it isn't in the load space! I'll post up some pics of the install stuff, might help someone. Auto lights modules turn up next week, first project (and the wife made it clear the Swifts to be done also.... <_< ) Bry

Hi all, just got my Rukus the other day, moving from the Rav4 to this. Good to see other Oz owners, they're pretty thin on the ground in these parts that I've seen (WA). Plans? Lesee.... DRL's, Alpine system, auto headlight kit and rims. Kinda pushes the purchase price up, but being able to buy a build 3 so cheaply is a plus! (apparently I need my head checked for getting one, but that's from those who haven't driven) Really miss the auto dimming mirror I had in the Rav too... so that's another project. I'll post piccies when I get it happening. It's Saturday, no post, no goodies! Bry