TA74

Hi Speedz, thats a very good price for those tyres,are you sure thats correct? I paid $270 for my light truck 17inch Gt Radials. If it is correct,go grab them,Coopers are great and i talk from experience.Alos try Pirelli ATR , Gy duratrac or General Grabber AT). Those Coopers measure in at 765mm overall dia(mine are 776mm) compared to 752mm for the factory tyres.But just check the tyre width as its very tight around the rear strut. This webpage ,i find is very handy for working out tyre size and speedo correction(which Klugers suffer from):- https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=245-65r17-245-70r17 or you go for a narrower tyre with a higher side wall, maybe 235/65/19? Hope this helps.

Hi Speedz, check this Toureq forum out, you might be able to fit a 255/60/19 tyre either a Goodyear kevlar or a Cooper Zenon(can highly recommend Coopers as ive ran them for nearly fifteen years with no problems). http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f44/all-terrains-on-an-19-wheel-255-60r19-100081.html But as they say, all tyres vary in dia evan if the side wall description is then same eg:- 255/55/19 Your other option is to buy some second hand 17in rims and put some real A/T tyres with a good side wall ( bettr side wall bag out for sand driving and better resistance to staking).

Unfortunatly thats about all you've got. My thinking is that the load is spread over two points,its going to be a lot better than a single point. The bridal strap with pull evanly on both eyes. And correctly used, a snatch doesnt have a sudden shock load,its more a gentle pull. If a snatch strap is not used(with a bridal strap) then i hate to think what would happen. As theres not much metal structure in the front of the kluger. The only metal sections are the slam panel above the headlights/radiator and the Aluminium extrusion that the towing eyes go through(into the chassis rails)

Oh, forgot to mention........When using your tow bar to BE recovered or your recovering someone else,put the snatch strap into the tongue hole and put the towbar pin back through the snatch strap. NEVER,NEVER put the snatch strap around the tow ball!!!!! under that type of load it will snap off and turn into a 3lb cannon ball. it will travel at about 100kmh straight at the car behind, going through the windscreen and seriously injuring the driver/passenger. A couple of months ago i noticed a news story on television about a driver being airlifted off a beach in Qld with serious head injurys from the towball coming through his windscreen, so it does happen. Grant

Hi Clark, Here are some photos i took today of my setup:- Second towing eye from wrecker Three "rated" towing eyes from TJM,Arb or opposite lock(not Bunnings!!!) The yellow strap is called a "Bridal" or "equaliser" strap.The white one is a normal snatch strap As for packing,its the roof rack for bulky lite stuff like camp chairs,tables etcheavy stuff gets squeezed into the normal spot.My fridge takes up the space of the 6th seat(i removed the seat,made a new floor and bolted the fridge slides to it,also i have a 90amp/hour agm battery under the new floor running through a redarc dual battery isolater). Hope this helps, anything else let me know.

Hi Clark,will get photos of my gear this weekend, anything in particular you want to know or see? Grant

Hi Speedz, I put on Gt Radial AT3 Adventuro's in 245/70/17LT. http://www.gtradial.com.au/media/1158/gt-radial-adventuro-at3-2014-email.pdf they are 776mm compared to 745-750 for the factory tyres,doesnt sound much but makes a difference. Im very happy with these tyres,great handling,awesome in the wet, well built and a great price(with a full replacement warranty not a pro-rater type). Grant. PS- Have found Lovells springs as well, they do ones for heavy duty standard height and heavy duty lifted.....when funds allow im going for the later. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131565174884?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT OR http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/391030186093?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Hi Clark and Barney. The Kluger will do it, but can you? it will come down to how good a driver you are and you driving skill/knowledge. Theres a lot of skill needed in sand driving(and practice)to make it safe and pleasurable for you and your party. nothing worse than being bogged on the beach with the tide coming in(and the wife on your back!!!!!!).But its fantastic when you get it right. Are you going with other experienced beach drivers?................As knowledge is invaluable. You MUST have a Tyre pump,a good quality pressure gauge and recovery gear. First thing is to turn off all the electronic wizardry on the car, like traction control etc, do this by turning on the car in park positon and pressing and holding for a couple of seconds the black semi hidden button on the dash about level with your left knee(left of the column and down a bit!). It will make a bing noise and you will have orange warning lights on the tacho inforning you its all turned off. Its now you and your right foot controlling the car( great for power slides in the wet!!!!!!). Next i would lower the tyre presures to AROUND 20 PSI as a starter(I use chop sticks for this,the cheap wooden ones from the the sushi store work best,they fit the valve perectly), if the car bogs down or feels really sluggish,stop and reduced pressures by 2psi,and try again,and so on until the car drives on top of the sand nicely. I would not personally go below 16/17 psi, and never give hard sharp steering inputs as you might roll the tyre off the rim. For recovery gear i have a long handle shovel, Five rated shackles (not from Bunnings),a bridal strap,snatch strap,air pump and a second towing eye from the wreckers. They do say not to recover from the towing eye,but there is nothing else at the front of the car to attach to, so i went to the wreckers and purchased another eye from a totalled kluger( a camry,aurion,rx350,is250 will fit also).and with my bridal strap and three shackles with both towing eyes screwed in (i will get a picture as it explains it more easliy) im more than happy to be recovered.For the rear just remove you towbar tongue put the snatch strap in the hole and put the pin back through the snatch strap eye and towbar. Also , your car will working a lot,lot harder than in the suburbs,make sure you have a full tank of fuel and its been regurly serviced(especially the cooling sytem).Hope this helps,will get photos of my setup ASAP if your interested. Grant

Hi Hiro, i went from the factory tyres to All Terrain tyre, the overall diameter was (according to the brochure) 25.4mm bigger than the factory tyre. I do have the print out from my tyre shop for the correction factor i just need to find it.

HI KX_R, sorry for taking so long to get back to you bu thave just had a baby boy, so life is all over the place,Yay!!!! ok, totally agree about the side wall flex on the factory tyres.When i had my new tyres fitted, a guy at work wanted my old tyres for some farm project. I was amased at how thin and flexable the tyre side walls were when off the rim.They would barely hold there own weight when i stood them up.No wonder they were aweful on the road.I think people putting nearly 40psi in them is compensating for how bad the tyres are. But anyhow my Gtradial AT3 LT's have transformed my car. As soon as i drove away from the tyre shop i nearly oversteered it into the curb,it improved the steering that much.theres no more sloppy handling and wandering in a straight line.Best thing i ever did. Ok, theres a little bit more tyre sound and a slight rumble through the brake pedal as you slow to a stop, buts normal for a chunky tread tyre.Well worth it i think, but if your not going off road like we do, then a LT tyre with a highway tread would be ideal (can recommend Cooper HT discoverer, i fitted these to my wifes Grand Vitara).

Hi KX-R, your right tyre pressures dont change a speedo accuracy, BUT tyre sizes do.Your speedo will change as your tyres wear!Thats one of the reasons i went for a 70 profile tyre than the factory 65 profile. Im slightly underreading at the moment but as they wear down my speedo will become more accurate. And i know this from experience, as this is the fourth car i have done this too. Unfortunatly with the world being soooo PC. car manufacturers have to lean more to a conservative side,so they fit a tyre that will underread. As for:-" the stupid/useless drivers doing under the speed limit without knowing it... I think they are smart and making the wise move to travel at their speed indicated".............................How can they be smart if they dont know there doing it?

Ok, here's my 2 bits worth!! NEVER rely on service station pressure gauges!!!!! they are not calibrated, and are treated like rubbish by every person before you. They are driven over,thrown on the ground and life they're short life span outside in the elements.ive seen these things over 15psi out,when compard to a calibrated pressure gauge. Also compounding the issue is that by the time you get to the servo your tyres are warm.You should always check them cold,first thing in the morning is best. After many years of offroading all over the country, from dirt roads to lots of beach work (were pressures are crucial, airing up and down) the best way to check your tyres is by applying the "4PSI rule".I get around 80-100k's out of a correctly set and rotated tyres,no matter what tyre or construction. Here is the Cooper tyre 4wd drivers guide to the 4psi rule:- "As a general rule,the following can be used-for road use only:As a startig point,inflate your tyres to the recommended tyre pressure on your vehicles tyre placard. Then to determine if you have the correct pressure for a given load,check the cold pressure and note the reading. Drive several kilometers to ensure they are at operating temperature and check again.Ideally, they should be about 4psi above the cold pressure.If the pressure is more than 4psi above the cold pressure, you should add more air. That is because there is too much friction, which builds up more heat than desirable. Conversely, if they are less than 4psi above cold pressure, the cold pressure is too high." Hope this helps,im running 245/70/17 light truck tyres on my KX-R at 31psi(cold) and my warm psi is 34/35psi.And they're wearing perfectly. Tyres are expensive, buy you self a good quality tyre pressure gauge(not one from cheap as chips!!!!) and with a little time and effort your tyres will last a lot longer. Also i notice a few of you guys are running 40Psi, thats a lot! The only time i have put 40Psi in tyres is when we head Bush for a couple of weeks around the flinders and are self sufficant for a lot of it, aswe carry 130 litres of fuel and around 90 litres of water and then all the camping/recovery gear(in my 2011 Nisan patrol). Yor ride will be hard and noisey at that pressure. hope this helps.Grant

Me again, for anyone interested in lifting/lowering their Kluger then check out these guys. http://www.climaxsuspension.com.au/store.php?h=LEcBXEBWCR4QTg%3D%3D

Hi guys, did you guys eventually get the rear bars???? if so, are they still available and how much?

Hi Trent, yeah it does raise that concern. my thinking is if your going to pull the front and rear struts out and fabricate spacers(and longer studs if needed), then you might as well fit new longer springs.it's nearly the same amount of work.