theDefiant1

If the pinout is identical between models it should work fine.

Aneone else notice that the hilux had to stop pulling the rex as a car went past the junction???

hahahaha. ha.

:D :P

Sorry 'bout the Balga comment. I was being... umm... rude. I don't think I would leave my car in that area, though apparently it's changing... even called Kensington now.

Anywho...

There's always a next time.

*shrugs*

Look, if you still have trouble, all I can offer is my Echo Sportivo which you can use to act as an example of a working car that does not exist.

I'm in Albury.

Cheers

hey all...

seems like i got lots of question to ask but so little time.... busy busy busy wit work n uni at the same time!!!

ok heres wat i wan to know...

fuel cut or rev cut. which one is better...

vvtli is programmed to cut the fuel when it over revs

vtec has a rev limiter which stop them from over revving the car

apparently i have been told tat fuel cut is bad for the engine or something like tat...

so which is which.

Hi Clement,

I think in essence of this feature of the car is this: while cutting fuel isn't great (just letting the pistons cruise in neutral), it is far better than the alternative (*boom* + smoke).

Rev limiters (electrical ones, not mechanical ones) work by rerouting distributor signals to a ground. Effectively this stops the sparkies igniting the fuel in the cylinders. BUT, fuel is still going through. This unburnt fuel gets sucked through the exhaust... Unburnt fuel in the exhaust can still ignite, in some cases in parts of the exhaust not designed for combustion (*boom* + smoke + flames out exhaust).

Give me a fuel cut any day in that respect.

If this 'feature' from Toyota annoys you, there are ways to convert it. You can buy auto kits which can act as rev limiters (check Jaycar). You attach it to pinouts in your ECU, set it as stated above with the distributor bypass, and you're there. There are inherent problems with rev imiters, but I wont go into them; look them up.

That should hopefully answer your question in its entirety, with no car-bragging or personal attacks. In the end, as most things are, it is a matter of preference and opinion.

Have fun at uni.

Maybe a photoshoot in Balga?

As always ever-cautious, also check insurance prices before buying a car. Given your choice in cars, I don't imagine that being too much of a concern, but I do remember insurance for my stivo being a third of the price of a tegra.

Some house-keeping duties:

I hope you all enjoy your shift-lights; thank you for helping make this possible.

We have invested in a very high quality product (I don't think anyone can argue on that point), and would like to thank Tony at Ecliptech for his generous offer, and excellent service. The fact that he printed out the workshop manual and provided it for everyone is testament that.

A GB for shift-lights can be organised at any time in the future, as long as there are at least 5 people wanting them.

Once again, thanks.

(No, I'm not being paid to advertise - I give credit where it is due).

R32

Great responses guys; thanks.

I've just joined 9thgen, and will look around there now.

Please excuse me for being devil's advocate here, but I have some techincal questions - hopefully someone out there can answer them.

The crank pulley is one of six pulleys connected by the belt. How will replacing one of them make such a big difference? Surely it would make some sense to have all of them replaced with lighter material, or at the very least the crank and alternator pulleys.

Are the claims of this product realistic at 5-10% increase in power? Even 5% on a sportivo would equal an additional, what, 5kW ATW? And supposed better fuel economy, faster RPM, less wear and tear etc (yay!).

I was also reading through the workshop manual - replacing the part seems time consuming - is $50 a reasonable price for installation? Less, more...?

Also, why would a mild undercrank pulley not be the way to go (such as unorthodox's one). Lightweight, smaller (but would you need a smaller belt, so an additional cost)?

And the other clincher: the dreaded voiding of the engine warrantee if it all goes to the fan. Any thoughts?

Just some questions that have been running through my mind. Still interested though.

quite very true... I just had a look at the paint protection papers I got with mine... it says I need to take it in before it's 2nd yr birthday to maintain the warranty?!?!

oh well.. one lesson learnt!

You got papers??? My parents got this option with their camry and there were no papers...

Time to give Toyota a call?

"Oh dddddear" said Piglet.

It seems as though I may have to order mine separately, otherwise I will be stung for postage twice. No-one lives near me. Not even close. So it may be one less for this GB...

These are black correct?

Do they prove any benifit besides looking nice ???

Please tell me they get rid of that sounds baffling when driving with the rear windows open...

Just wondering, does this unit come with a harmonic dampener? I know it's OEM not an underdrive, but still... there is no mention of it coming with the rubber bracket.

Just letting you know that www.toyotaterritory.com has TRD CAIs selling for US$242 = AU$290 (according to the eBay convertor. Is it worthwhile getting a competitve quote from them? Postage is unknown.

Either way, their price comes out cheaper than the eBay site...

Feh, I just get my sequential shift lights to do it for me!

Ecliptech FTW!

<insert smugness here>

(Dont mind me)

I'm interested

This is the one that will fit into the facelift with a bit of a push, yes?

Just letting y'all know, that I was quoted $545 by Castle Hill Toyota a few weeks ago.

LOL

Some people have too much time on their hands!

*holds hand up*

pick me, PICK ME

But I am watching the exchange rate carefully... I want this to be 'profitable'...

Sarah! Avert thine eyes!

lol, this thread still pops up once in awhile..

Is Sarah included, or are we considered a single entity?

yeah im pretty sure that @ 100kmh tacho on 3500, @ 110kmh 3800 and at 120kmh 4000rpm,

cheers

I concur, but recently cruised at 120kmh and 3800rpm (favourable weather conditions?)

Out of all the cars I have physically, I rate the Echo Sportivo as the best bang for the buck.

Running around complaining of a speedo that is out by a certain amount presents its own solution - if you know how much it is out by, then you can compensate accordingly. This is made easier with the fact that the speedo is digital, so you can be precise. Maybe that's why Echo/Yaris owners notice it prominently. An analogue reading is sometimes more difficult to judge visually, which is perhaps why there are fewer complaints.

It also seems as though those with GPS devices are more sensitive to the differences. Solution presented - use what the GPS device tells you your speed is - though the reliability of GPS devices is sometimes dodgy (hey Big Pete :P )

I guess Toyota saves money on its cheaper cars by *just* staying within the set limits with speedos. Like with any car, if you want precise performance, you have to take the car to get tuned. No reasons why this cannot be done by a tuning specialist. Toyota may not offer this service due to their 'regulations' and what they consider 'reasonable'.

Enough preaching. More driving.