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Chompies

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About Chompies

  • Birthday 10/30/1986

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  • Toyota Model
    Old Camry

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    chompieschompies@hotmail.com
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    Melbourne

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  1. Haha, thanks mate.. great to see so many people care! lol j/k
  2. ??? I don't think you're supposed to use a pad to buff it off man. You use a terrycloth towel or cotten towel folded into quarters. You 'buff' off, then when it appears 'patchy' and mottled you turn it over to the clean side for a final wipe over. Let us ask the Emperor again. Comments Sir Chompie? Yeah you are right Rob, use a cloth (preferably microfibre) to buff off your wax. As Motorman said, microfibre will pick up your wax and absorb it much easier than a cotton towel. I wash everything after use, because your buffing towel will be full of dried wax and will not be able to absorb as much wax the next time you use it. You should be able to safely use dishwashing liquid in your washing machine, I have done it many times.
  3. Yeah, it's good to wash your tools after each use. If you don't wash them then they will collect a tonne of junk and just imagine what that will do to your paint! What I do is wash all my products (microfibre separately) with dishwashing detergent (high alkaline) in warm water, then rinse with a vinegar/water mixture to soften and disolve any detergent/minerals still in the water.
  4. Vincent, I have sent you another PM. That is the wrong one, the one for car polishing is PEX400AE. Have a look at the Bosch website: http://auptocs.bosch-pt.com/boptocs-au/Cat...hw&ccat_id=9638
  5. Hey mate, that is the same one, they are actually Random Orbital Sanders, but you attach foam pads instead of sanding pads for polishing cars. If you are really serious about getting into machine buffing, I would suggest to you to buy it from this website: www.finalinspection.com.au and while your there, order a few polishes and pads. It does cost fair a bit to start up machine polishing, but once you have everything you should be set for a long time. I have sent you a PM with what you will need.
  6. Rob: If you want to get a machine buffer that is almost idiot-proof, buy a Random Orbital Polisher like this one: Bosch PEX400AE Random Orbital Polisher From www.finalinspection.com.au These are not as dangerous as a rotary buffer because the head moves in an eccentric motion and doesn't generate as much heat between the pad and paint. So it's almost impossible to burn your paint. I have the Festool RO from that website and I absolutely love it. You can use wool pads, but not steel wool.. unless you want to scratch your paint off, haha. Wool pads on an orbital buffer are used for heavy cutting.
  7. hahaha, thanks for the constant plugs buddy! Like Rob has said Poorboys make a good swirl remover that works well by hand but like most swirl removers it is made to be used via machine, so you will have to give it some elbow grease. The product is called SSR2.5 and you can buy it from www.waxit.com.au Only available online unfortunately as it is imported from the USA. I can't really think of any good swirl removers that you can purchase at retail stores other than Scratch-X, but I find that it is a bit too expensive for what you get.
  8. Please do not leave nail polish remover on your paint over night. Nail polish remover contains solvents which will eat your paint away. What are you trying to accomplish neK? There may be better solutions.
  9. No worries mate. I'd say use what you have.. no point spendin up unless you really need to. I find that Meg's #26 Yellow paste is a fairly decent carnauba wax, much better than most of the stuff you find at K-Mart, etc. Give it another shot but if you're really unsatisfied, Poorboys Natty's (Blue or original) Wax would be my next recommendation. EDIT: Here's a graphite Honda Accord that I detailed last week with Natty's Blue on top: Sun was down, so I couldn't get any outdoor full sun shots, but you get what I mean.
  10. Which wax are you using? By Yellow, I take it as Meguiar's #26 Yellow Paste? If it is, you need to let it dry for longer than a few minutes, try 30 mins. This is because it's not a pure carnauba wax, it contains synthetic polymers as well. It needs to dry fully to ensure bonding. Here's a tip when claying: dilute your QD with water 1:1
  11. Far out, looks too close to the ground.. be careful when it rains. If you're going to drive with that, I would put some sort of mesh at the end, otherwise bugs and stuff will get sucked in and your filter will get clogged fast. Like others have suggested, remove the stock resonator/piping and attach this blue pipe to the air box. Drop the blue pipe somewhere inside your bumper.
  12. Dam Sportivos... j/k I want one!! :P Well done to you guys, pulled some pretty quick times.
  13. What's with the pics? Have they been photoshoped to look artistic or what?
  14. That's weird mate, all the Autobarns/SCA's sell the Meguiar's Claybar/QD pack in my area (Knox). I know that Autobarn Chadstone and City stock 'em as well, so it might be worth giving them a shot. The pack is around $30 and you get a small 50g (I think) claybar with a bottle of Quick Detailer. It's a good starter pack to.. umm, start with. Alternatively, I'd highly recommend a Clay Magic BLUE claybar from www.finalinspection.com.au . It's around $50 for the claybar by itself but it is 200g (much bigger) and works a lot better than the Meguiar's one. Email damian@finalinspection.com.au and see if you can work out a Claybar/QD pack of sorts... this route is more expensive than Meguiar's, but it'll last a whole lot longer and work a lot better. Hope this helps. :)
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