Clubber997

I know it's doable and has been done. I'm not aware of the specifics but it is most definitely not an easy job!!! Chassis, engine mounts (and size), bellhousing pattern are completely different. Not to mention all the electronic and pollution that goes with it. Besides, the 1KD is a much more powerful engine but many would argue that it is far less reliable and a overall worse engine. You'd be better off sticking with the 3l unless it's a project car and you don't mind a lot of **** around just for the ****s and giggles.

Speaking as a Toyota tech, 100% for looks only. If you go for an aftermarket system or remove some of the mufflers for the OEM system it may be a bit louder (although I dunno why you'd want that, it'd just sound *******...)

You could chop the plug off the heated mirror and install the standard mirror plug onto the "standard wires" and then run the other wires to power/a separate switch etc? Tricky part would be figuring out which wire does what though... Just an idea, anyway.

How many Ks? Could well be the head gasket, especially with all that oil coming out of the back of the engine (a relatively common occurrence) but I'd clean it all up first as has been previously suggested before jumping straight in and ripping the head off... Is it definitely coming from the top of the engine? Could also be that cam seal. There could well be several leaks. When was the timing belt last done, and do you know if the cam seal etc was changed at the same time? (Always a good idea).

So the fog light wiring is already installed? Why can't you just hook them up? (if necessary find the correct part number relay/fuse and install them in the fusebox if they're not already there). If you're asking how to wire them up, I'd just install a normal relay somewhere in the engine bay, with a switch mounted in the cabin to turn them on/off independently (regardless of what the other headlights are doing).

Welcome! What sort of Camry? Any mods?

Ok, so as you may see on my previous topic, I am currently working through some charging issues on my Hilux. I decided to start a separate thread to ask a couple of specific questions to help me diagnose and fix the issues I'm having. 1. The regulator has 6 wires going to it. Does anyone know what specifically each wire does, or know where I can get this information? 2. Is it worth upgrading to a later model Bosch internally regulated alternator while I'm at it? Pros/cons? 3. Does anyone have any recommendations on good value-for money 4WD batteries? (I live in NSW). 4. Is it worth installing a "cut out switch" in the alternator exciter circuit while I'm messing around with this stuff to try and prevent alternator damage when doing deep water crossings? Will this be effective? Thanks in advance.

Just another question, there are 6 wires going to the regulator - does anyone happen to know what they all do, and which ones are which?

Hmmm... I know the battery is pretty old, and I know the terminals/some of the cables are pretty dodgy. Oh well, I guess getting the alternator tested/new reg/new reg plug and wires/new battery terminals and main/earth leads, and a thorough inspection and replace anything else found to be dodgy along the way... Thanks heaps Trent, and if anyone else has any other ideas/input hit me up!

Welcome!!!

They have 2 - one on the exhaust manifold in front of the radiator, the other on the exhaust manifold on the back of the engine, underneath the car. Very tricky to get to. It could be a little hard to get out, but a decent breaker bar, a single hex impact socket that is THE CORRECT SIZE, and a bit of WD-40 if necessary will help it along if it's a little tricky. Take your time and you'll be fine. As Bill said, try cleaning it first before replacing it, you can buy special cleaners or you can use contact cleaner/brake cleaner etc if you're stingy. Make sure to check the wiring too - if it's a intermittent fault it could well be a loose connector/broken wire etc. Try cleaning the connectors in the same way as the oxygen sensor, and carefully inspecting the wiring/harness.

Would this cause regulators to bust themselves though? And the thing is, the charging system was working (mostly) fine until a couple of days ago.... And I don't think this would cause the alternator output wire to burn out?

Hello all; I recently bought a 1984 SR5 2L (3Y petrol) 4x4 Hilux, and I'm having some trouble with it. Basically if I hook the alternator up, it overcharges massively (anywhere from 18/19-22 V when idling fast when warm, around 1000-1100RPM - it'll sit at about 12/13 volts when idling cold, around 600RPM). Now the obvious thing to do is to replace the regulator - however, not only does it have a brand new regulator on there, according to the previous owner, that's the third regulator in the less than 2 years he's owned it. It's also had a new alternator fitted at some point, and a new coil (so it's obviously had these electrical issues for a while). On top of this, the main alternator output wire has burnt through - twice (Only once for me but at least twice recently). Now my next thought was that there is a short somewhere, but aside from some crook wires near the regulator plug I could find nothing wrong with the harness anywhere. It has been suggested to me to replace the whole wiring harness, but seeing as it runs underneath both guards and behind the firewall (and includes some emissions stuff, the headlight loom, and **** knows what else within the one harness), I'm not very keen on this approach. So. Has anyone had, or heard of anyone having, these issues or similar? Any ideas on what I should do (or if anyone has a wiring diagram or some idea what pin checks I can do, etc)? After doing some research on Google, I get the impression that I may have the wrong type of alternator (A-type circuit vs B-type circuits, or something - but this was very vague and on an American site) - does anyone know how to check this? And finally, it has occured to me to upgrade to a Bosch internally regulated alternator with a bit more grunt - maybe 80 or 90 amp (for down the track). Does anyone have a rough idea how much is involved in this, and if there are any drawbacks (are the later model bosch alternators less water resistant or something, etc?). Sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance!!

Ok no worries :) - with the coolant, it'd be a good idea to keep topping it up until it stays around full (a bit over won't hurt it at all, worst thing that'll happen is you'll lose a little bit) - it might just have some air in it, if they didn't bleed it properly after changing it....

Ah... In which case it should not have been touched. Maybe it's just a coincidence... Maybe take it in, explain the situation, and ask if the foreman can have a look at it (it's a bit hard not being there in person)... And if they try and screw you over or brush it off, go to a reputable independent or another Toyota dealer and see what they say...

Incompetent ****s... 1. Check your waterpump - get a torch and have a look. If any dried coolant at all is visible (have a really, really good look), your waterpump is leaking and will need to be replaced. If that's not leaking, check elsewhere for other leaks. 2. Check your transmission level while the car is running (it should be a red coloured dipstick with a weird clippy thing on it - if in doubt, google). It should be full. And red - very red. Not dull red/black/any other colour. If in doubt, get someone else to have a look or change it. 3. Dunno about the tick... Can you post a video of it? And also the transmission grumble? Finally, I must apologise on behalf of Toyota... I work for Tamworth Toyota, and from what I know (feedback from friends experiences etc, plus knowing what goes on etc) on the whole we are pretty good (we at least make an effort to be that way) and are a lot better than most places.... It saddens and embarrasses me that not all Toyota dealerships are like this. What a bunch of space cadets... (seriously, how do you forget to do a fuel filter??? Simple stuff...)

The fuel pump should prime when the ignition is on. Is it a blocked fuel filter/pickup, or a blocked supply or return line? How old is the hilux?

Raise it up again... :P

Blown headgasket, has probably got coolant in the cylinders, could well have bent a rod or valve or something (or even just filled/partially filled the cylinders which means it definitely won't fire anyway), in which case forget it (and if its turning over slowly that could easily be the case)... All I would say is, take the spark plugs out and crank it to (hopefully) check if there is coolant in there, and if there is, to get rid of it (and drain any remaining coolant as much as possible to stop it happening again), check all wiring, fill the tank up with fresh fuel (the old fuel has probably gone stale, normal unleaded usually only lasts 6 weeks max before going stale), hook it up to a car with a big battery or a heavy duty jump starter pack, and keep cranking the bitch until it either fires or breaks something. Not much else you can do, without towing it...

I would assume so, however you might want to ask the seller as no units are given. I would also double check with the seller that these are definitely for a 97-02 camry, as it mentions a Mitsubishi Magna in the description (and I only did a quick ebay search to find an example...). Also, to measure ride height, you measure from the centre of your wheel to the top of the wheel arch/bottom of the guard.

King Springs are very good, I'd recommend them. They'll be the same springs that fit the camry CSi/Csx/Conquest/Vienta etc. As to what spring you get, it depends whether you want to keep it stock, raise it or lower it, and by how much. This is an example of what I might go for (I'm not saying you should, necessarily, but it'll give you an idea, anyway)... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-CAMRY-SXV20-97-02-KING-SPRINGS-LOWERING-CAR-KIT-/281475762022?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4189434766 Hope this helps...

Sounds like it's just while the oil pump is building up pressure around all the valves/galleries etc... Does it sound when the oil light comes on (when its cold) but go away t roughly the same time that it goes out? If that is what it is (and I'd be 90% certain it is, although I've never heard it in an Aurion I've heard it in heaps of older cars...), it shouldn't cause any issues (except, perhaps, in the super duper long term... Like 40-50 years kinda long term) - and I suspect the Toyota dealer (depending how reputable they are) will either tell you it won't cause any damage, or that it needs a new engine or something ridiculous like that...

Personally, I'd run a relay with constant power straight from the battery (with a fuse of course, and a switch in there, if you want..), but with a wire from the reverse lights to trigger the relay - so the floodlight comes on when the reverse lights come on, but it is drawing power straight from the battery, not the existing circuit (because both sets of lights will be brighter, and you won't be overloading any fuses/causing any other issues, etc etc). But that's just my personal opinion.

Hi all (again...) So I am planning/saving up to install a fairly large, high quality sound system, and suspect the load will be too much for the electrical system (power "spikes" with the beat possibly dimming headlights, etc), which is not ideal especially since I also plan to install driving lights and occasionally towing a trailer... I am planning to remove the airbox and replace it with a pod filter, and put a second battery in its spot (and put a bigger "primary" battery in if there is still too much load - I do a lot of country driving, so want headlights as bright and reliable as possible, obviously...). However, I suspect I will need a bigger alternator, and would prefer to spend as little money/time on this as possible, as I don't have much of either... So does anyone know of a bigger alternator that can be bolted on and supply enough current for this with a minimum of modification (and hopefully money...). Also, any other input/advice etc would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Hi all Just wondering if anyone knows how to remove the rear parcel shelf/backseat from a 1997 camry CSi? I have a rough idea how to remove the backseat but don't want to touch it until I know for sure, as I don't want to damage it. And I can't for the life of me figure out how the parcel shelf comes out (it doesn't matter too much if it gets slightly damaged as I'm making another one for my Major Design Project in school, but the more intact the better). Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!