BlindEyeSight

Here ya go hope this helps a little. I lied in my first post i think its more like a series 2 bar & I forget the style of this bar sorry Im not to familar with the 34 bars but on the 33 you will have to add a grill section to the bar. Good luck.

hmmm 300 do they do a complete replacement or just put the elglow as a backing behind the gauges ?? If its a custom design be alright. There was a sight that showed how to do ya own custom design using PS and a scanner. then overlay that onto the elglow and walla instant bling :P .... i forget wat sight it is. Showed ya how to do all sorts of DIY things to ya toyota.

I got the Gen4 set of the el glows.... there nice and 10 times better then the stocko if you can get the gauge faces on without removing the needles then no configurations needed. if you have to remove the needle try and secure the needle shaft, in the motor there is flat piece of metal coiled up like a spring. and the only thing stoping it from unravelling is the little pin at 0 km that stops the needle. It looks like its all at a certain pressure so if it unravels itself it may put your gauge out. I assume this maybe the case i could be wrong. Another thing is the fuel gauge is a non returning gauge or named something like that (on the gen 4) I read somewhere that you should try and avoid moving this needle as it may put ya gauge out........ how true it is im not sure. but i moved mine accidentally and then tryed to put it back to the position i remembered it in. When i turned the car on it didnt move so either i got the spot right or it is now out.

another one is the rubber seat the spring sits in on. If its partially/fully perished you'll get a rattling or vibrating noise. These are a tad cheaper to replace :D

i had this drama with another car i got. I found that the wire to the OD switch had snaped inside the shifter handle. I think i might of pulled it a tad hard when removing my dash but it only snapped enough to break the connection and still would touch when driving and goin over bumps etc... so the OD was on and off. Just check ya wiring. Specifics on where or how to get to it i am unsure as i've only got a manual and the auto car i got isnt a toyota Good luck

Im flat out during the week so i will try for this weekend B)

I got a spare S1 R33 front bar off my skyline and it looks like it will come close to fitting on my gen4. if i remember correctly the bar looks to be a tad wider around the headlight area. that said I have not taken the front bar off my camry yet to see if it will actually go on. I've had the same ideas and with a spare bar laying around :P But im guessin with a bit of chopping and reglassing you might be able to pull it off. GTR bar or the 400R bar on a camry :D I like a very much :P If ya want i could line them up and take pic. Might give some sort of perspective Maybe one day when im bored ill actually pull it off to see if the skyline bar fits

E10 runs alright in my 1mz. I dont use it to often cause i think there is like 1 or 2 stations in the whole Cairns that carries E10 and there all on the north side, where im on the south. I find the BP ultimate a tad more effective over the V-Power in the camry. But the opposite for the sky V-Power over the Ultimate.and then theres the caltex stuff....98 vortex or something. My car does not like it one bit. after using it my car felt so sluggish. But then a mates Gen 3 V6 loves it ehh you might have to go and try a few and see how you go.

I dont want to sound like a smart ****, but i am guessing you have checked the bulb yeah ?? and also the actual switch make sure its not set to off but to door ?? have you check with a multimeter ?? if not before pulling your car apart, get out your multi meter (or buy a cheap one from supercheap or dicksmith) and see if the terminals are live, and maybe check the switches. also check at the fuse, check those 3 spots and that should help locate the break thats my thinking anyway. I think my manual at has a wiring diagram, ill see if i can find it

what about a Lexus ECU ??? dont they have the better mapping and wat not.

if money isnt an issue, SELL IT ! and get a manual V6, its a bigger better foundation to start on then the I4. even then all you need to do is open up the breathing with a CAI and a exhaust kit and put a decent set of tyres on and your laughin, trying to turbo the 6 looks expensive, but if your really lucky you might stumble upon a TRD supercharger for the 1MZ

http://www.findapart.com.au/ might be of some help to you

good thing with the camrys in the gen 3 and 4 with the 1mz and 3vz from experience is to make it breath better. Upgrade the intake.. the cheapest and easiest way is to get a K&N panel filter (some might say it dont work...but you notice a diff from your paper one) and then take out all the resonators in the intake line, then take the bottom of your airbox and drill holes in it (eg 10mm to 15mm holes or find a size that fits between the support ribs in the plastic). make it look like swiss cheese. I also add a flex hose from the front fender to the air box to give it a little cold air. OR you can go get a CAI kit for it. SRI are usless i found on the V6, gets heat soaked to much specially on take off (when power is needed :P) that will help it suck easier then upgrade ya exhaust. 2.5in cat back for example. dont really need anything bigger then 2.5in. and put hi flow mufflers on it. these mods ive done to mine which is a manual.. as for the auto.... (my GF mothers gen4 V6 wagon) it was pretty gutsy for an auto. so you should be able to achieve something but compared to a manual.. it doesnt have that edge :P

if ya got the tools ....do it your self, if ya got a v6 3vz or 1mz, then the back ones are goin to be a bitch if you dont want to take your plenum off. It can be done but if you got big hands then its goin to be a tight squeeze and you probly get cuts & scraps :P platinum and iridium are supposed to have extended life and sparks better

Hi guys & gals, Im lookin into getting a Supra RZ preferably in a 96+ year range. 2jz-gte with the 6sp gearbox. Has anyone imported there Supra (or any other car). has experience can give advice, a good importer / broker anything thanks in advance cheers

Thats a bit of a report you got there, half those fuels i dont have in Cairns :P but i use the ultimate in my camry, and Vpower in my other car. i dont know how true it is but i been told that you have to reset your ecu if you change fuels and run with it for a few weeks to see or get any benefits out of it.

had a quick look... i've left out what you said your friend has already done and the suggestions the guys have given. * Loose faulty electrical connections at coil(s) or alternator * Insuffiecent fuel reaching the fuel injectors * Vacuum leak at the gasket between the intake manifold/plenum and throttle body * Idle speed incorrect * Water and impurities in fuel system * Ignition components damp or damaged * Faulty emissions systems components * Faulty spark plug wires * Vacuum leak in the fuel injection system, intake manifold or vacuum hoses * Valve clearances incorrectly set. If you can drive the car you might be able to rule some of these out. But hope it gives some help

When it stalls, does it just cut out or does the engine drop its revs then stalls??? if it just cuts out it maybe an electrical/ignition problem. Just as a long shot....... this happened to me My car would run ok when driving, but took a bit to start and when i got to traffic lights or had to stop it would just cut out. It ended up being the battery. When i get home ill check my manuals, its got a troubleshoot section in them..... might give suggestions, but no doubt your mech friend probly already has them.

What do you mean 2 stage? as in when you press the remote onces it unlocks the drivers door only ? If so then try this: 1) Turn the key to ACC (3 times , as quick as possible) 2) when you have done this right, the Security light will light up longer than usuall 3) press the electronic door lock button on the drivers side door. Im pretty sure thats the procedure. If it works the blinkers should flash.... Hope that helps

Program remote: 1) Turn the key to ACC (3 times , as quick as possible) 2) when you have done this right, the Security light will light up longer than usuall 3) press the remote button, if you have 2 remotes you need to press them one after each other. Otherwise one of them will not work. so do all key remotes in one procedure. If it is successfull I think the blinkers flash. Turn off horn chirp: 1) Turn the key to ACC (3 times , as quick as possible) 2) when you have done this right, the Security light will light up longer than usuall 3) press horn. it should chirp or flash the blinkers This worked on my 99 Conquest.

if ya do put it back to gether....wreckers can be your best friend or http://www.findapart.com.au/index.php

Depends, if ya got some good plans for it, and wanna make it into something unique (specially with the 3S-GTE) like a show car or something. then yeah might be a good base to work from. otherwise as a daily driver.... no, your repair bills might be close to wat a newer well looked after camry would cost. Unless you can do a lot of the work your self

That is the better way. proper CAI style :P

I replaced the airbox with a pod.. effectively a SRI. Its crap, it gets heat soaked. If ya gonna do it do a CAI., Or Take ya panel filter replace the panel filter with a K&N or something that breaths better then the stock filter, then take ya airbox and drill 1/4 inch or bit bigger holes in the bottom section. Make it look like swish cheese. makes it easier to suck air. But to go one further, take out all the resonators in your intake pipe work, including the one in the fender. Get a bit of flexi hose and run if from the front bar into the bottom of your air box. kinda like a CAI. Some might say it wont do much, but I did it and its the best intake mod for the price.

wO, i get like 10km to the 100l..... i put 30L in and get 300-320 k of it ...depending on how i drive, and thats in the city and its a 3l V6........tho Cairns is not really a city compared to Brisbane or Sydney.