Pippy

Doesn't sound like rod knock to me, more sounds like something is loose in the bay or a off tension. Sometimes the idler tensioner can rattle if they are getting tired. (Which btw looks a bit oily... you might need a new cam cover gasket?)

Hey Steven, Chipping i don't believe is a thing for ZZE Corolla, at least not as straight forward as some of the later Toyota models. There might be shops that might be able to "JTAG" it for you, but at the end of the day, for the costs you might be better off getting a replacement aftermarket ECU like a LINK or ViPEC.

Hey Evan! Haven't seen you in a while!! I hear you have the TRD blower now? :) Gotta meet up one day and let me have a peek at the goodies under the bonnet! As for my ZZE, i think i have given it plenty of punishment. 80,000km on NA, driven pretty hard with a few track days thrown in for good measure. Never skipped a beat. 25,000km on Supercharger, TRD blower, runs pretty hot and still puts up with the punishment. I had a Power FC by then, but the motor is still mechanically sound 30,000km on turbo setup, running about 13psi boost, changed to ecu to Vipec, but again mechnically the motor has not skipped a beat. The motor is left untouched internally, so all the Toyota magic is still there. No alternator or a/c issues either. I think it'll be hard to beat in terms of reliability, at 135,000kms on the clock still eating up 13psi of boost and have never gone back to toyota for a service once, i think it doesn't get any better than that!

Ok, I have not posted here in a while. But I had to after reading all this. Thanks, it provided me with entertainment for the day. :)

A correctly sized turbo will give you more response than a supercharger. Here are the pages on my car... http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18153&st=0 and an older one... http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15425 I think i have accidently deleted the photos from my host, i will try and replace them later.

Oh yeah, not running Power FC anymore... Vipec all the way. it is only 1000x better!!

Nope, not even close. 10,000km on 9psi (stock wastegate pressure) after that the boost was changed to... 1st gear - wastegate pressure (9psi) 2nd gear - approx 10 psi 3rd gear - approx 12 psi 4th, 5th and 6th - almost 14psi she hasn't popped, and the best thing is, no oil loss either! :) But plenty of tyre loss :( VERY happy with it.

i suggest you start by comparing the wiring of the stock ZZE-123 to the stock ZZE-122 wiring. Personally if i was to do the swap i get a zze-123 front cut and steal the climate control from that too, then you won't have to be messing around with the ZC triggers etc. However having said that, if you are going only for the motor, then the engine loom alone would be ok. ZZE-123 in japan has both with or without climate control. again, compare the wiring diagrams of both vehicles and you will find that there might be a couple pins you need to change/swap then that's it. The swap should be very, VERY, straight forward if you know what you are doing as the location of the engine mounts are common between 122 and 123, and some goes with shift cable links and throttle cable. as far as engine swaps go, i don't think anyone here has done an engine swap on a ZZE on this forum, and if anyone has they would probably go straight to a 3S-GTE.

Learn to read... learn to port! match to gasket or you will create unnecessary turbulance. Hahaha, dude, hence "learn to read". you're doing it again. :)

oh bugger! hasn't he finished your intake for you yet?! It sounded so good tho!! :(

When are you guys going? i might come along? i need to send my car down the 1/4 too :) maybe? Evan, don't worry about showing or not showing the dyno chart too much. Good or bad, you've gone the effort and having the guts of actually doing something. As for everyone else that bag you for not showing it or showing a chart with poort figures can shove it, coz what would they know??

I'm pretty sure Harry has a Stage 1 or stage 2 in his supercharged setup.

A turbo! They're the best mufflers ever! Lukey is great, used it when i had my supercharger, i used the dogleg design ones. What size are you going for??

You sure the linkage will work? The 6th gear difference between the c60 and c64 isn't worth fighting for, it'll make no difference to your top speed unless you have 300+hp to push through the drag. And I'm yet to see a track in Australia where you can reach that speed with a 1.8L engine. To answer the question about my gearbox, C60 box from a JDM celica with LSD option fitted. The linkages were already swapped around for me when i got the box, so for a fact that they are required to be changed. I must agree with Dave on the point that if you already have a C64 there's not much point going to a C60, and by the same token, unless the C60 you have access to already has a LSD fitted, then its also not worth getting over a C64. You can pick up a six speed from a wrecked sportivo for less than $600, similarly for a celica, but then you have linkage issues. It was only pure luck that i found my gearbox from an importer with LSD and linkages sorted. Turbo application, i personally would go strong E series 5spd LSD box, but then if you're going that far why not just do a complete 3S-GTE swap? My personal opinions. :)

Its not vital to have that cover, infact i'd prefer it without (still haven't got it in). Had my clutch swapped the first time the idiots put it in back to front and it got ground up pretty good, then ended up rattling!! :( I managed to find a replacement at the wreckers, so i'd imagine you might be able to find one there! If not let me know, i can sell you the one that i bought (since i prefer it without! :) ) Cheers.

I personally wouldn't be too concerned about the top speed as such because the aerodymanics of the corolla body isn't too goo at high speeds and apparently reaches its limits in terms of resistance around 220km/hr. Having said that tho, what might be of interest and a bit closer to reality is the crusing engine speed (rpm) at 100km/hr, roughly 60mph. C60 sits just that much lower for the fuel consumption figures to be considerably lower when tuned. personal experiences at least, compared to the 5spd.

can you guys not reply with the quoted images?? :P scrolling is a pain

Ok guys. The strength of the C series gearboxes are all about the same, and although Corolla Sportivo uses a 6 speed, it is not the same 6 speed that is off a Celica. To help people try and understand the differences of these 3 most commonly asked gearboxes, here are the graphical representation of the ratios. Graphed with RPM vs. Speed (NOTE: MPH) with the revs maxing out at 6400 (sorry! 1zz oriented!) Graph 1: C64 vs C52 - 2ZZ sportivo 6spd vs 1ZZ corolla 5spd Graph 2: C60 vs C64 - 2ZZ celica 6spd vs 2ZZ sportivo 6spd Hope this helps you guys understand. p.s. doing power mods will not make your rpm figure change for a particular speed. sorry to break it to you guys but that's a constant product. :P Also, having 6 gears doesn't always mean you'll be shifting more, but it does nearly always mean you'll have more access to your power band. :)

What?? what are you talking about? Here's the thing, the ZZ series corolla, celica, and MR-S all share the same bell housing bolt pattern. (i.e. C56, C60, C64, etc, etc) but they don't all share the same linkage. Have a look around, i'm sure this has been covered a few times. As for the shaft, when you do a gearbox swap the shafts don't matter. there is nothing wrong with keeping your old 1zz shafts. 2zz shafts require a centre bearing bracket to secure the 2 piece shaft. Some say it would reduce torque steer from the "equal length" shafts, but to be honest i couldn't really tell since my 6spd is a LSD box. in a nutshell tho, swapping gearboxes from the same ZZ series would not require drive shaft swap. Do it if they can be had cheaply, otherwise i wouldn't bother. what does your friend dom reckon?

Trust me, here's my suggestion. Don't bother with doing internals or fancy fuel rails. With the stock fuel rail and properly sized injectors, fuel pump, and the right turbo setup and tune, you'll have no traction before you snap rods!!

How do i feel about this? Well, firstly, you really need to gauge where you own or supporting mechanic's fabrication skill are at, and then secondly gauge how willing and how much time or patience you have in sourcing and making the bits. The way my project was able to go rather smoothly is because we had start by having a spare motor. Did up some AutoCAD and Solidworks drawings to get an idea with what we're doing (in the process bought a lathe and a mill). Once 1:1 drawings and models were made on cheap 80gsm paper, they were sent off to be laser cut. This included the flanges for both intake and turbo manifold. Without boring you to death, if a workshop was to fabricating the consider the labour cost. Roughly, the project took up about 6mth of pretty solid weekends (when you combine all the weeknight efforts) being conservative, it would be close to 200hrs of labour (x2 people), and depending on how much labour cost, you get the idea. :) With no off the shelf kits or turbo products available off the shelf, a lot of the bits had to be sourced and test fitted, etc. Try and think how much your budget is... say... $8k, then double it. I can post up a full list of what is being used in my car, it'll help with showing the custom bits and the parts required. :) Shed some light on this will ya bill?

I feel like i'm missing something here. Shielding is good if the heat source is close. i.e. the motor or the turbo, but i don't see the relevance of this to a Corolla, as the mounting position of the motor would suggest lesser retention of heat under the bonnet in comparison to a 200SX. The intercooler rule does apply to CAI, BUT is VERY limited. Even once the intake pipes heat up, the heat exchange rate from the surface area of the pipes alone to the flowing air becomes irrelevant compared to the surface area offered by intercoolers (hence its name). Hope this helps answer your question. :)

Gav, would the CAI you were using happen to be made by, dare i mention the taboo 3 letters on this forum? The problem i noticed with most of the CAI include the following: - Inaccurate mounting of the MAF sensor Commonly caused by poorly machined MAF mounts, where the MAF becomes poorly positioned (too shallow, angle offset, placing MAF at a bend, etc etc) causing the air to not pass through the MAF sufficient to provide an accurate reading. Toyota and many other car makes overcome this with a mesh or fitting with fins to straighten the air. - Too large diameter piping Although stepping up the plumbing in theory increases the volume of air, however it also decreases the velocity of air at low vacuum, hence not providing enough reading at low throttle position. This can be overcome by stepping down the pipe size to provide reading, the slight decrease in the MAF section will not rob power or flow, as high school physics would suggest that the total flow rate is governed by the majority or output volume capacity. Personally, I think removing the pipes off your airbox would be a good start, definitely not as good as a CAI (that is correctly made). The TRD intake for me personally is a bit over priced, they could have at least stuck the TRD sticker on straight on the MAF mount? As for the other popular CAI made by you know who, while being nice and stainless mandrel, would be nice if it had a bit more accuracy it’s ‘machined’ MAF mount. Anyway, enough about CAI...

I've only ever seen another green levin on the road before, and a green levin wagon, that was VERY nice!!

Hi all, Just wondering if there's another Green Corolla on this forum, or even better a green Levin. Great if yours is silver, red, black or whatever, but looking for green. No particular reason, just wanting to know if i'm alone. :( Cheers.