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jamsbong

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Everything posted by jamsbong

  1. Hi shoppers, I've got a second hand TRD sportivo suspension kit for sale. Suit Corolla 2001 - 2006 series MK9. ZZE series. Never done any track racing or serious abuse to it. Used only under normal urban driving condition. I just wanted a lowered look for my car ;) This is a great kit that lowers the car and gives it a more balance (front to rear) look. The car is flatter on corners making direction change faster. The car's dynamics changes completely when compared to stock suspension. You'll feel so very stable that at first the car feels like it is not moving (or absence of wobbling). Condition: 50000KM usage, Still in very good condition apart from minor surface rust, scatches and dirt. TRD Sportivo Suspension Full Set:- Shock Absorber Set: 48030-ZE210 Front shock absorber: 941/429N Rear shock absorber: 1060/908N weight: 12.3kg Coil Spring Set: 48130-ZE210 Front Coil Spring: K=40.0N/mm Rear Coil Spring: K=39.5N/mm weight: 9.7kg Ride height: Approx. 35mm lowering for Sedan *copied from TRD webpage (see the PDF file). For images and a brief website specs: https://www.dropbox....aj47/IiddSYxRcu You've also got a Repco spring compressor set which I've used only once. You'll need it for a DIY installation. half price $35. Goto my ebay ad to bid or buy it now for $375. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110961673220#ht_626wt_1139
  2. Thanks for the responses, Putting things into perspective, you guys are correct to some extend. The best fuel consumpstion vs the worse fuel consumption varies only about 2L/100km at the very worse. Unless you use the car for 100000km/year, your fuel costs is insignificant compare to registration, service, insurance and loan. So in many ways, it does not matter if I'm wasteful with fuel as I don't travel that much. I probably end up spending $10 per mth extra. another words, I probably saved just a mere $10/mth by being diligently saving fuel and turning off the car at lights. I have tested my car with engine off at the lights, It really works and there is significant difference. Well the good news is that car companies can easily respond to the fuel price increase by producing more fuel efficient cars. This time they really mean it. I Hope. Bong
  3. Tips for getting a better fuel consumption. Turn off your engine at Red Light. This works very well especially if you are commuting everyday and you know the traffic pattern already. Not a good idea if it is an unfamiliar place, and if it is night time, your headlights may drain your battery. I've done it and I can easily save 0.5 to 1 litre per 100km. that means from 8 to 7litres/100km or less. I have done < 7L/100km. This is almost like Prius or Echo level of fuel efficiency. You can overfill your tires a bit to reduce friction, very good for long distance travel. Finally, just make sure you have your engine in shape. Especially the motor oil and the gearbox oil. I'm using a low viscosity gear oil and it is lighter (thus less drag) and gear change is easier. Oh you can also use high octane fuel, which burns cleaner, not that it saves much cost considering you are spending more on the price/litre. you'll find that you end up breaking even or just spending very little bit more. The main advantage is high octane fuel are so much cleaner and thus, you will never clot up the injector or dirty your valves, which ultimately means that you can run your engine efficiently like new even after 100,000km or more. in conclusion, the most effective method is turn off engine (common sense), then the rest is also effective if you want to spend time on adjusting tires and regularly change M oil. I recommend high octane fuel, Octane98, because it is the same price if you do the numbers.
  4. is the sportivo trd, not adjustable. I didn't want to go coil on coz is very hard. I don't intend to do much tweaking at the moment. unless i know what i'm doing, and the only thing i know is tyre pressure. hehe
  5. Hi everyone, I've been learning to drive hard with my TRD suspension and shock-absorber set. At first I found there was not much difference in the limits. In fact I was getting understeering whenever I got to the limit. Moreover, the limit was not higher than my stock spring. It was later that I found that I have to change the way I drive. With the stock springs, the suspension respond is a lot slower. So for me to change direction quickly, I had to steer hard and aggressively. Then once the weight is transferred, use little bit of steering so that you won't slow down or turn too much. With TRD springs, the respond is much faster. so I don't have to steer hard at all. just decelerate and steer and be confident that it will turn. AND it does. In fact, if I steer hard, I induce under steer because I throw the weight around improperly. Oh well, overall, I can drive hard cornering speed a lot easier and much less roll thus more comfortably. However, I find I am struggling to determine the limit of the car. probably I have not truly found it yet. Oh well, more practice. I have whiteline rear swaybar too. Any tip in learning?
  6. looks good! reminds me of WRX I colored mine a while ago. it is red in color, and fits well with my silver alloy and dark blue sedan. I reckon you guys should all put on colors on calipers. but try different colors. maybe green? lime?
  7. the idea with ebd is to go "one step" further than just a simple ABS. I've driven a Toyota Caldina 2002 (JDM) which has just that and I had a chance to compare it with a car which has just ABS. the difference is huge! with ABS, you can't lock up the wheels (obviously) but as u brake hard the car pivots out of balance and you end up with weight of the whole car on 2 or less wheels. with EBD, the computer do not just prevent your wheels from locking but also apply the brakes smartly so that you can does not pitch or roll out of shape. this makes effective use of the stopping power from all 4 wheels. impression wise, ABS alone is a slightly better than no abs. you still get scared when you have emergency brake. with EBD, the car just slow down in a very calm fashion. Also, I realise that different car's abs are all different. so i often do a brake test when test driving, rather than a power test. To me it is a lot more important that the car can brake effectively than counting number of horsepower.
  8. One thing I know is this and I'll advise any buyers of it. The strength and weakness of old cars will be reflected onto the newer models. so is up to you, get a Aurion for reliability and low running cost. Get a holden for its muscles, and its true Aussie image.
  9. Gee thats almost performance of a prius or a european diesel hatch. prius and diesel can usually do 1000km per tank. in regard to air-con + hot weather, my point was that the power is surprisingly weak. usually your air-con at home will consume upwards of 5hp to cool such a big volume. a 1.8 to 1.5 would be a difference of at least 15hp to 30+hp. thats why it was surprising for me.
  10. I find the fuel consumption is worse on hot weather with air-con on. Moreover, there is no power when that happens. the car literally felt like a 1.5 on those condition, not a 1.8 anymore. I've also found that Mobil is really good petrol. Don't really have prove of it but when my car is on mobil, it humms a lot smoother with no knocks and very forgiving with clumsy clutch. I remember, after pumping mobil and suddenly i switched to caltex premium, I stalled my car 10kms after i pump the crappy petrol. I know... I should have rev a bit more and be more gentle on the cluth release. but the point is that the engine does not like it so it just stalled at higher rev than with mobil. BP is also good, but not as good as Mobil. Shell is crap. Is quite sad that mobil stations are disappearing since they are usually more expensive for the normal petrol but cheaper for the premium. I find the premium mobil is just a little more than the normal ones, so well worth the extras. in fact, shell, caltex have very expensive premium petrol.
  11. Agreed, my personal experience with cars brand is this. Auto companies are very conservative, the formulae and quality control which they have used to sell their products are always the same because they know that it works for them. So, a Toyota is based its ups on reliability and it has worked for them. Holden and Ford is based on better bang for your buck moto (forgetting about reliability) and it works for them too. Honda, revvy engines but no torque. etcs...... So like I will only use Nokia phones, I will only use Toyota from now on. My family and I have used other cars such as Mazda, Land Rover, Holden, Subaru, Suzuki. Now we only use Toyota. Don't think Levin is worth it. In fact, when I was purchasing my corolla conquest, the salesman said that the higher models are not worth it. I mean, don't salesman earn more for selling me a more expensive car?
  12. This is what I find so far. The worse fuel economy comes in condition when the weather is hot, Air-con is on and travelling in the busy city streets. The best comes from cool rainy day, highway driving, and no air-con (not needed). I've recently stopped calculating my consumption coz I've been getting a very consistent 7.5L/100km. a bit more at times and a bit less on others. I do notice this, on a freeway, floor the throttle and reach max speed (near 6000rpm on top gear) once only. I did this to see how far my conquest sedan would go. After that the engine feels a lot more lively, the fuel consumption remain good on freeway and I was able to cruise at 120-140km/h with less fuel than before. Previously, I had always been gentle on throttle wherever i go and I had been doing that for 1 year. This I guess made the ECU adapt itself to be efficient at speed less than 100km/h. If I travel at 120km/h vs. 95km/h, my consumption was so much higher. So this led me to conclude that if u need to travel on freeway for more than 30mins. floor it on top gear first (If u can).
  13. I agree that the Underground 2 had all the goodies, in both drag, drift and all sorts of customizations and tuning to make the game worth buying. The other NFS game which i thought was welldone is the Porsche Unleashed where you get to play all the models of porsche and they put significant effort to make the handling feel right. most wanted and Carbon is just another NFS game which is not worth buying. I'm not into world of warcraft because I don't want to become that dude with no life as described in Southpark. hehe..
  14. I've finish playing NFS carbon. the game is great although it is not the best of the NFS series. What I love the most is the Canyon Race. A direct copy of Initial-D's racing. Also the introduction of American Muscle cars is great! Like the unique jap cars with light-weight and high rev engines. the Muscle cars are unique for being super torquey and BURNS RUBBER!! And some nice Videos on the storyline. What I hate is that the game is so short. finish it in 2 days and I was not even trying. The wingman features is fresh at first but soon to become a nuisance. The other races are just getting old and too easy to accomplish. I don't have internet so never tried multiplay. thats my take. Love the Canyon race and muscle cars. hate the other stuff, is unnecessary i think. James
  15. I like this version much better. That from shoulder comes directly from the Civic. why can't Toyota get some real designers? instead of getting a lot of skillful copier? I mean Celica, Rav4, LS250, etcs all have original design. Why not the corolla?
  16. I've tried on a manual. hold on the e-brake, 1st gear and engage the clutch lightly and accelerator. Similar to the start move when you're climbing a hill. Then Release the e-brake, floor the accel, and get go of the clutch gently. There is not much you can do with Auto. Put gear in drive. then rev with brake on, release brake, floor the accel. Btw, how much rev do u need to get the Auto to wheel spin on take off? On a manual sedan with stock suspension, anything more than 2500rpm kick up some crazy wheelspin. is annoying actually.
  17. thanks, thats certainly better than my "old method" I normally rip off the file from the temp directory of IE6. hehe.. crude but it works.
  18. regarding the NA vs Turbo. Obviously turbos are so much more torquer than NA. I own a corolla and I can say honestly turbos are more fun. I dare to say this, if a F1 engine is 1.8litre NA, it won't feel that fast either. until of course... u hit 17000rpm or more.hehe... In my experience, turbo engines goes from turbo lag (at low revs) till a sudden surge of power that stretch from as low as 2500 to near 6000rpm... that is simply amazing!! in gear ratios, the differences in 1st and 2nd is usually a big gap. simply because the 2nd gear has is still multiplying the torque of your engine at least 8x or more! so even BMW's M5 7speed has a relatively bigger gap from 1st to 2nd compared to 5th,6th,7th. which is also why it is very hard to downshifts to 1st. so whether your lift dissappears on 2nd is probably so momentarily or the fact that the clutch slip itself is going to balance things out. otherwise clutch kick it. that always helps. James
  19. looks like these HIDs are getting cheaper on ebay. I've bought one of these made in china HIDs a year ago. they are still running and as usual the ever so slow warm up time. It is usually about 2mins+. the other thing i've noticed recently is the weakening brightness. Once this one is ruined I'll find a better brand i think. I'll probably get a 4300k or a 5000k this time. coz I feel is getting old with these blue lights... hahah :D but more importantly, the lower K range is even brighter. oh ya, although by HIDs aren't as bright. it is still heaps brighter than halogens. James
  20. Chemistry mate, chemistry ;) I'll do an ecomony thread Then we can discuss the cost benefit analysis of modifications - payback - comfort vs fuel economy etc etc. I have data from stock (novemeber ) to modded (currently) since the start of this year Hopefully we can convince more ppls to go coilovers as it has a direct impact on fuel economy. *all things being equal that is* The discussion so far has given me much better understanding on a few things. I've realised that frontal area must have been rather small to achieve the necessary max speed. In regards to the economy of owning a car. I find the depreciation has to be the most expensive cost. Then insurance especially if my age is young. then service. and finally petrol cost. I have not changed my tyres or have major repairs yet. corollas are fuel efficient so the impact of fuel prices is quite minimal compared to the other costs mentioned. I'm actually quite interested getting a ride with coilovers. I want to know if it is really stiff and uncomfortable. or something else. anyone has idea on where to go? i can not ask favors off you people since I live in tasmania. :(
  21. there is a lack proper data... what i've done just now was a quick initial calc. thats a basic approach that all engineer would take
  22. Ive had mine at 210 on a ****ty road. 100% Stock. thanks for that. It looks like i've underestimated the calculations. can you guys give me the max speed for all the different corolla models? like sedans, hatchs, sportivos, accents etcs? Not just from one car but as many cars as possible. I want to recalculate this.
  23. how much faster is the sportivo? is it close to 210km/h?
  24. Yes. the 194 value is on the speedo. the actual speed may be slower on the corolla. at 60km/h your car is actually doing just over 55km/h. at 110km/h on speedo, it is doing 100km/h actual speed. Fixed. I'm only stating facts. So that means 195km/h is well possible without going downhill or help from wind. assuming you're reading off the corolla's speedo only. That should settle it.....
  25. Yes. the 194 value is on the speedo. the actual speed is slower on the corolla. at 60km/h your car is actually doing just over 55km/h. at 110km/h on speedo, it is doing 100km/h actual speed. i suppose is for safety reasons to have "extra" fast speedo. The only other reason could be toyota wants to give you an optimistic speed. hehe... :D but it seems all car makers do it.
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